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Old 08-19-2018, 02:46 AM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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Default M&p 10 problem

I recently bought an M&p 10 chambered in 308/7.62x51. Its a few months old. I bought it brand new. Upon purchasing a new gun, I ALWAYS clean and lube it before shooting, and I did with this one as well. My first trip to the range didn’t go so well. First off, it was an indoor range that only allows frangible ammo. I don’t know if it was short stroking or what but it would fire, the trigger would reset but it wouldn’t pick up another round. I could pull the charging handle and it would then pick up the next round, but it wouldn’t do it automatically. I fired 8 rounds and didn’t end on an empty mag, so I don’t know if it would’ve locked open or not. I took the gun to my local gunsmith. He looked at it for me, checked the gas flow and said everything looked fine. I notic3d there was an un usual amount of brass shavings in the chamber (something I didn’t even get in small amounts in my M&p 15. He told me that it was normal and I’d get less and less as I break the gun in. He also told me to use nothing but brass ammo and no frangible until after a good break in period and to make sure I lubed the gun up very well during this period.

After a good cleaning and lubing, I went to my friend’s range. Here, I used Winchester jacketed soft points, two 20 round mags and it worked perfectly, both mags. I thought I had fixed the problem, so I’d continue to break it in, slowly but surely as my funds are tight at the moment. Still noticed the brass shavings and noticed there was a nice gash in the casings, but, again, the local gun smith said it was normal (he inspected the brass as well as the shavings in the chamber) .

After a good cleaning and lubing, a few weeks later I went BACK to my friends range. This trip didn’t fare as well. The first mag, my friend fired. It was some remington core lockt soft point. That mag was fine. I had some federal MATO 7.62x51 that I loaded up next. Same thing as the frangible, it fired, the trigger reset but it didn’t pick up the ext round. I charged it, fired again, this time it was a stove pipe. After this, I tried the remington again, and I was getting a mixture of: stove pipes, failure to chamber a round but reset trigger/hammer and a few that worked fine. Upon empty mags after the first successful mag, the bolt would not lock open.

After a good cleaning and lubing, a few weeks later (which was yesterday 8/18/18) I took it to a range a ways away from where I live but that allowed me to use regular ammo. I was determined to break it in as much as possible. I probably fired around 80 rounds. The first 3 20 round mags worked perfectly. The first 2 was the remington soft point and the third was the Winchester soft point. I decided to use some perfecta 308 FMJ I had. I fired 2 or 3 rounds before the first malfunction. Failure to chamber, but the trigger had reset. After this, the remington that worked before and the oerfecta was giving me mixtures off stove pipes, failure to chamber and the remington worked right a few times (chambered a round) but others it either stove pipes or didn’t chamber. When I went to clean it tonight I noticed the shavings again. I took pictures of it, which I will post here. I also have pictures of some of the brass from another outing, which the brass from this outing looked exactly the same. I initially called S&w and they said I could send it in, but also suggested I give it a proper break in period. I am at probably about 120-150 rounds at this point (I believe). I’ve read online that 200 rounds is a good break in, then I had the guy at the gunsmith shop tell me 800 rounds and someone at the range yesterday told me 600 and someone else at the same range told me 1000. Any tips would be greatly appricated. Sorry this is so long winded, I wanted to give as much info as I could remember. I’m also going to post a picture of one of my snap caps. It’s marked up like crazy, though I’ve cycled it several times as a function tests and to see how badly it got scored up.
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M&p 10 problem-8ef4b8de-8af2-42a3-904c-8df584e4d4c9-jpg   M&p 10 problem-c5b3b8ea-e6a8-4932-b054-2d91849d7164-jpg   M&p 10 problem-ad1eb4d4-6923-4649-bd48-dadc77615be5-jpg   M&p 10 problem-11a30144-e914-4a4a-b81d-cd9e0d9a66f5-jpg   M&p 10 problem-eeb5dabe-26e4-42b3-af09-22ef4c76fc3a-jpg  


Last edited by Smthwssonshootr; 08-19-2018 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 08-19-2018, 12:40 PM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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Just curious, how long is a normal amount of time to wait for a reply?
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Old 08-19-2018, 01:08 PM
BillyMagg BillyMagg is offline
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Unhappy M and P 10

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smthwssonshootr View Post
Just curious, how long is a normal amount of time to wait for a reply?
Well I guess most of the Smith and Wesson forum are just getting home from church!

So, the M&P 10 has a colorful history, I suggest you look back through the M&P 10 thread and contact some of the Gents who have had trouble to see what solutions they came up with...

oh and all those nice guys who made it home from church should be checking in..

this weapon seems to have its share of feeding issues, so we'll pray for you Bub...
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Old 08-19-2018, 02:19 PM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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YeH, I didn’t think about that. I’m religious in a sense, but I don’t go to church. I’ve looked through most of them, at least the ones that popped up when doing google searches for M&p 10 feeding issues, short stroking issues etc etc. When I get more funds I may just rebuild the rifle if I can’t get the issues worked out. I saw a two video series on YouTube where a guy was having short stroking issues, and he said that the break in period is a MUST so hopefully after a thousand rounds or so, it will clear up. He also installed an adjustable gas block, so I don’t know. Still hoping for more replies. That brass CANT be normal.

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Old 08-19-2018, 03:42 PM
steeledge steeledge is offline
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Lube the bolt to almost dripping wet. I use Mobil 1 or some other synthetic auto oil, no need for high price gun oils. If that doesn't help, I would send it back to SW-- before spending a lot of money and wasting time, ammo and frustration. I forgot to mention-- lube it up, however don't get excessive oil in the chamber of the barrel. As the parts get broken in and mated up. less oil on the bolt should be needed.

Last edited by steeledge; 08-19-2018 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:29 PM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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Lube the bolt to almost dripping wet. I use Mobil 1 or some other synthetic auto oil, no need for high price gun oils. If that doesn't help, I would send it back to SW-- before spending a lot of money and wasting time, ammo and frustration. I forgot to mention-- lube it up, however don't get excessive oil in the chamber of the barrel. As the parts get broken in and mated up. less oil on the bolt should be needed.
I already have different brands of gun oil. Several brands, including balistol, break free CLP, hoppes and a synthetic brand (canít remember the name) that I bought from the afore mentioned gunsmith shop. Are you saying I should use mobile one even though I already have all this gun oil? What type? 5 w 30 or does it matter? As far as oil in the chamber, how would you suggest avoiding that? Every tutorial I watched, read and even the gunsmith told me that the bolt lugs have to be oiled as well as the part of the upper where thereís friction between the outer part of the chamber (where the bolt sits) and the bolt. It seems that alone ends up making the chamber fairly wet... and I do oil it up quite a bit. I wouldnít say itís dripping but itís pretty darn soaked.

Also, what about the brass shavings. Is that normal? If not, could there be some kind of burr in the chamber or chamber of the barrel? Could this be causing the failure to feed/stove piping? Thanks for the reply.
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Old 08-20-2018, 10:56 PM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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Ughh helllp
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Old 08-21-2018, 11:45 AM
steeledge steeledge is offline
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Check out 308ar.com. lots of info
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Old 08-21-2018, 01:08 PM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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Check out 308ar.com. lots of info
Not seeing anything on thereís for my problem, very little about M&p 10 or S&w for that matter. I guess, at this point, Iím not expecting any fixes or guesses as to what the problem is, info as to whether or not the brass shavings in the pics I posted are normal for a 308 rifle or not... so far out of everyone Iíve told about this problem, Iíd say 35% say send it to S&w and 65% say to put 100 rounds through it and see what happens after that. I had two people that both had the same issue give me advice and one told me to put 1000 rounds through it because when he did he stopped having the problem and could use whatever ammo he wanted, though he didnít really address the brass shavings... the other owner said he out 200 disappointing rounds through it, sent it to S&w and it worked fine when he got it back... still didnít address the brass shavings. I know there are people here who know about this stuff someone PLEASE help. Iím sure you all know what itís like to have a Worthless Gun laying around. It SUCKS... please help.
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Old 08-21-2018, 02:55 PM
noro noro is offline
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Smithwessonshooter,

Best thing you can do at this point is send it back to Smith and Wesson Its brand new and under warranty, so save yourself a
lot of aggravation. Of course, its your rifle, and you can do what you want.

My point is why throw parts at it and try to fix it at your expense?
Clearly something isn't right with it. Based on what you're saying,
you've done all the right things. Clearly, the problem is in the rifle.

Now I have a MP15 Sport 11. After 1500 rounds, it started to
short stroke. Jamming, not picking up fresh rounds, etc. The
bolt wasn't being blown back far enough to pick up the next fresh round. Happened with any magazine, and any factory ammo I used (PMC, Federal, Winchester.) Problem is definitely
in the gas system.

I could throw a new bolt in it, or new gas rings, but why should I pay for a new $80.00 (roughly) bolt while its under warranty?
S&W sent a ticket to get it returned, and that's where its at right now. Your rifle, your choice. If you check out all the
things which might cause your problems, and cant resolve it, a trip to S&W might be in your best interests.
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Old 08-21-2018, 04:13 PM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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Smithwessonshooter,

Best thing you can do at this point is send it back to Smith and Wesson Its brand new and under warranty, so save yourself a
lot of aggravation. Of course, its your rifle, and you can do what you want.

My point is why throw parts at it and try to fix it at your expense?
Clearly something isn't right with it. Based on what you're saying,
you've done all the right things. Clearly, the problem is in the rifle.

Now I have a MP15 Sport 11. After 1500 rounds, it started to
short stroke. Jamming, not picking up fresh rounds, etc. The
bolt wasn't being blown back far enough to pick up the next fresh round. Happened with any magazine, and any factory ammo I used (PMC, Federal, Winchester.) Problem is definitely
in the gas system.

I could throw a new bolt in it, or new gas rings, but why should I pay for a new $80.00 (roughly) bolt while its under warranty?
S&W sent a ticket to get it returned, and that's where its at right now. Your rifle, your choice. If you check out all the
things which might cause your problems, and cant resolve it, a trip to S&W might be in your best interests.
That’s about where I am at at this point. The ONLY things that have kept me from doing it was the fact that the S&w guy told me to break it in then call if it’s still giving trouble (after telling me to send it in originally then changed to break it in after I told him I haven’t broken it in yet) and someone else who claims to own one said that after 1000 rounds it worked fine with any ammo. So, I’m worried if it IS just a matter of breaking it in, sending it to S&w would be a waste of time because I’m going to have the same issues when I get it back, either because I’ll be breaking in a brand new rifle OR I’ll be CONTINUING to break in the old one. Breaking it in fully probably isn’t something I’ll be able to do quickly. Considering the cost of ammo and range time, it’s going to take a year at least to get to 1000 rounds. I’m probably going to send it in.

Last edited by Smthwssonshootr; 08-21-2018 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:57 PM
copemech copemech is offline
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It is likely the factory will not fix your gun because they will test it with US made hunting ammo and if it works they are done.

Nato spec ammo and some cheaper stuff is not loaded to the same velocity and pressures that full powered US made is.

The Gas port is sized for this and may not provide enough gas for some guns to run well on the other stuff.

On my gun I measured the factory port size at .068 and increased the size to .073. Now it seems to eat whatever I put in it without issue.

There are a number of others that have followed this path as well with the intended results. Research indicated that even .075 is a typical port diameter in this application from various rifle manufacturers.
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Old 08-21-2018, 08:15 PM
BillyMagg BillyMagg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smthwssonshootr View Post
That’s about where I am at at this point. The ONLY things that have kept me from doing it was the fact that the S&w guy told me to break it in then call if it’s still giving trouble (after telling me to send it in originally then changed to break it in after I told him I haven’t broken it in yet) and someone else who claims to own one said that after 1000 rounds it worked fine with any ammo. So, I’m worried if it IS just a matter of breaking it in, sending it to S&w would be a waste of time because I’m going to have the same issues when I get it back, either because I’ll be breaking in a brand new rifle OR I’ll be CONTINUING to break in the old one. Breaking it in fully probably isn’t something I’ll be able to do quickly. Considering the cost of ammo and range time, it’s going to take a year at least to get to 1000 rounds. I’m probably going to send it in.
The brass shavings come from an errant burr or sharp edge on the chamber or magazine.. I have a Rock River with an older 5 round ASC magazine, it did exactly what your's is doing..

I took it to the mechanic at Hilltop Gunshop at the next gun show and he ran several dummy round through it and showed me where the magazine was causing it to shave lead off the bullet, and brass off the case.. the rifle was throwing flyers fairly frequently... I would note that it was a steel magazine.

Took it to the farm with a couple of Colt 20 rounders, and its worked awesome ever since, it really doesn't group as well with Polymer Magazines.

I ordered a 5 five round aluminum magazines from the first company and they all work beautiful.

So try to use a couple of different mags to start with, maybe ask the factory to replace the two that likely came with the gun...

I didn't see where you had mentioned the number or source of your magazines, the magazine is the number one culprit when AR's, 1911's of a quality source fail to function properly...

and any of those gun lubes will work fine, the motor oil has a higher viscosity than the light gun oils and may hang on a little better, but it could also accumulate more debris...

And give your gun exactly what it likes, why use cheap steel case, or even the frangible ammo if you know your gun doesn't care for it...

do make sure and give the chamber a good cleaning with a chamber brush designed specifically for that purpose.

Last edited by BillyMagg; 08-21-2018 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 08-21-2018, 10:46 PM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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Originally Posted by BillyMagg View Post
The brass shavings come from an errant burr or sharp edge on the chamber or magazine.. I have a Rock River with an older 5 round ASC magazine, it did exactly what your's is doing..

I took it to the mechanic at Hilltop Gunshop at the next gun show and he ran several dummy round through it and showed me where the magazine was causing it to shave lead off the bullet, and brass off the case.. the rifle was throwing flyers fairly frequently... I would note that it was a steel magazine.

Took it to the farm with a couple of Colt 20 rounders, and its worked awesome ever since, it really doesn't group as well with Polymer Magazines.

I ordered a 5 five round aluminum magazines from the first company and they all work beautiful.

So try to use a couple of different mags to start with, maybe ask the factory to replace the two that likely came with the gun...

I didn't see where you had mentioned the number or source of your magazines, the magazine is the number one culprit when AR's, 1911's of a quality source fail to function properly...

and any of those gun lubes will work fine, the motor oil has a higher viscosity than the light gun oils and may hang on a little better, but it could also accumulate more debris...

And give your gun exactly what it likes, why use cheap steel case, or even the frangible ammo if you know your gun doesn't care for it...

do make sure and give the chamber a good cleaning with a chamber brush designed specifically for that purpose.
Thanks for your reply. Yeah I forgot to post what mags I use, though I didn’t think the mags would’ve had anything to do with it. I have two mag pull 20 rd mags and 4 magpul 25 round mags. It does it with all the mags. I can’t seem to find a good steel mag that fits the M&p 10. For example, I bought a 20 round aluminum mag (can’t remmeber what brand) that said it was the type that my gun takes SR25 or lr308 pretty sure I was told they take both but I know the magpul I have are the same type that came with it) and it didn’t fit, but the magbpuls are the same and they fit. Plus the mag I bought had a bad follower as it stuck when I’d attempt to load it before I realized it didn’t fit. My funds are limited right now which is why I WANT the cheap ammo to work (which supposedly it eventually will) but even the 17.99 Winchester and remington soft point ammo that works at first eventually starts malfunctioning too... of course this is after I tried the cheaper 15.00 a box perfecta and federal 7.62.. then after going home and cleaning it and going back to the range the 17 a box stuff works great again until I try something else that ends up not working. If I knew it take the defensive ammo I bought for it then I’d be happy, but I like a gun that I have options on what I can use.

As far as a possible burr on the magazine, would this likely be the case even if it does it on all 6 of the mags I have for it? All 6, as I said, are mag pul (again, 2 20 rounders and 4 25) and thy all do it. I’d think if it was a defect I. The magazine it wouldn’t be for every mag of that brand, though hopefully you will correct me if I’m wrong on that. One person that looked at it (an AR tech that looked at it for free so it wasn’t inspect3d just a once over kind of thing) said I could have a burr in the barrel or chamber itself, which if that’s the case that’d be some5ing S&W would need to fix. Thanks again for your reply.

PS: hilltop... that sounds like Va?

Last edited by Smthwssonshootr; 08-22-2018 at 12:59 AM.
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Old 08-21-2018, 10:56 PM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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Originally Posted by copemech View Post
It is likely the factory will not fix your gun because they will test it with US made hunting ammo and if it works they are done.

Nato spec ammo and some cheaper stuff is not loaded to the same velocity and pressures that full powered US made is.

The Gas port is sized for this and may not provide enough gas for some guns to run well on the other stuff.

On my gun I measured the factory port size at .068 and increased the size to .073. Now it seems to eat whatever I put in it without issue.

There are a number of others that have followed this path as well with the intended results. Research indicated that even .075 is a typical port diameter in this application from various rifle manufacturers.
How would one go about increasing the port size? I’m no gun smith so it’s probably not something I’d do myself.


You say if they test it and it works they’re done. What about the brass shavings though? No one has really responded to that except to say it could be a burr in the chamber or magazine... in which case I’d think that’s something they’d fix. Can I expect them to look at it through (I can’t think of what the proper name for them is at the moment) one of those barrel cameras?

The gun you said you increased the port size on, is it an M&p 10?

If I send it back, I’m thinking I may send it without cleaning it so they can see the brass shavings and I’ll send a letter with it explaining it does it with certain (brass cased FMJ) ammo after a few successful round of mags.. maybe even sending it still dirty from the range will cause the malfunction to occur. It did so with me at the range the other day. After 3 successful mags (all soft point ammo, 2 mags of remington core lokt and one of Winchester soft point) I loaded it with perfecta, the first round was fine then when I fired the second, the third one didn’t chamber but the trigger reset and the spent casing was ejected, after that I went BACK to the remington that worked before with mixed results when before it worked flawlessly.


Sorry this is long winded... just want to be thorough

Last edited by Smthwssonshootr; 08-22-2018 at 03:01 AM.
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Old 08-23-2018, 12:48 AM
copemech copemech is offline
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How would one go about increasing the port size? Iím no gun smith so itís probably not something Iíd do myself.


You say if they test it and it works theyíre done. What about the brass shavings though? No one has really responded to that except to say it could be a burr in the chamber or magazine... in which case Iíd think thatís something theyíd fix. Can I expect them to look at it through (I canít think of what the proper name for them is at the moment) one of those barrel cameras?

The gun you said you increased the port size on, is it an M&p 10?

If I send it back, Iím thinking I may send it without cleaning it so they can see the brass shavings and Iíll send a letter with it explaining it does it with certain (brass cased FMJ) ammo after a few successful round of mags.. maybe even sending it still dirty from the range will cause the malfunction to occur. It did so with me at the range the other day. After 3 successful mags (all soft point ammo, 2 mags of remington core lokt and one of Winchester soft point) I loaded it with perfecta, the first round was fine then when I fired the second, the third one didnít chamber but the trigger reset and the spent casing was ejected, after that I went BACK to the remington that worked before with mixed results when before it worked flawlessly.


Sorry this is long winded... just want to be thorough
A good quality #49 drill was all I used, nothing special, just don't go all the way through and score the other side of the bore.

yes, this was my mp10, and it has been back to mothership twice, how I know! yet I will caution you that some cheap ammo may not be very accurate in the gun.

I think most the brass whiskers come from the rounds hitting the lock lugs on the way into the chamber. mine leaves distinct scratches on the case neck, yet I do not worry about this at all.

put a drop of oil in each hole in the bolt and a few on the slides each shoot. let it run wet. mobile 1 works a treat!
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Old 08-23-2018, 02:11 AM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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A good quality #49 drill was all I used, nothing special, just don't go all the way through and score the other side of the bore.

yes, this was my mp10, and it has been back to mothership twice, how I know! yet I will caution you that some cheap ammo may not be very accurate in the gun.

I think most the brass whiskers come from the rounds hitting the lock lugs on the way into the chamber. mine leaves distinct scratches on the case neck, yet I do not worry about this at all.

put a drop of oil in each hole in the bolt and a few on the slides each shoot. let it run wet. mobile 1 works a treat!

So you sent yours back twice and it didn’t get fixed? Almost regretting buying it after all the problems people seem to be having. I sold an fn 5.7 (luckily only lost $100 on it) to fund it.

You say cheaper ammo might not be accurate.. how off are you talking? Does it at least FIRE and cycle correctly? Not that it matters if it’s not hitting where I’m aiming, but just curious.

I get scratches on my casings as well, though it’s not quite on the neck (see pic in original post) if by the neck you mean the “bottled” part... it’s further down the case.

I run it as wet as I possibly can, and I keep hearing to use mobile one... might just have to give it a try. I have several bottles of gun oil (CLP break free, Balistol, hoppes, remington and some synthetic brand from my local gunsmith) but if mobile one is where it’s at... it’s cheaper too. I’ll try it. I’m thinking one more outing before I decide to send it back. I just got done cleaning it from my last outing and the brass whiskers are almost gunking up in the nooks and crannies of the chamber (need to get some chamber patches maybe that will help) and have completely turned the ejector portion of the bolt that brass copper/gold color.. don’t know if that means anything performance wise, I do know the bolt on my M&p 15 doesn’t look like that and it’s had at least 1000 rounds put through it. Then again, more power in the 308.

I’m hoping maybe if I DO send it back if I send it dirty S&W will have it malfunction on them and fix *something*.

Last edited by Smthwssonshootr; 08-23-2018 at 02:13 AM.
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  #18  
Old 08-23-2018, 09:07 AM
noro noro is offline
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Hi Shooter,

Seems like you're making no progress here. Tried different ammo, tried different magazines, cleaned it, lubed it, tried different lubricants and still isn't working consistently.

Only my opinion, at this point, call S&W and ask to speak to a tech that is familiar with this platform. There is something
definitely wrong with your rifle that no amount of "break-in" or
testing various measures is going to fix.

Your rifle should work with all ammo and magazines, as you have proved. It doesn't. So why frustrate yourself and try
to get to the "break-in" point if it doesn't work correctly?
At this point, no further amount of break in will correct it IMHO.

Clearly you have problems that are going to require new parts.
Why should you deal with it when its under warranty? In my case with my MP15 Sport 2, it started to short stroke. I cleaned it, lubed it, tried different mags, tried different ammo, with the same results. still jamming. Ran all the on-line tests.
My problem is in the gas system. I took the bolt from a buddy's Ruger AR556 and it ran great, no problems at all.

Now at this point I have a choice - send it back, or buy a new bolt at my expense. Why should I pay 80.00 (roughly) for a new bolt when S&W will fix it for free? Yes, I'm without it, and yes its a hassle to send it back (getting a ticket, printing it, boxing it up, taking it to Fedex, waiting to see if it gets there, waiting for results)

This is a quality rifle with a warranty, not a home built rifle from parts where anything can happen. IMHO save the frustration and aggravation and see what S&W will do for you.
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  #19  
Old 08-23-2018, 02:59 PM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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I have decided to send it to S&w. Will be shipping today or tomorrow. Wish me luck.
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Old 09-01-2018, 05:45 PM
TommyBoyABQ TommyBoyABQ is offline
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I had feeding issues with mine when I first got it (July 2018). I sent it back and they fixed it - works fine now with all types of ammo I have tried from hunting rounds to mil-spec.. It took about 4 weeks plus shipping time.
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Old 09-01-2018, 09:48 PM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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Thanks, tommy boy. I’m curious, number one, did it take long to get your shipping label or did they email it to you? I’m asking cause I’ve had an FFL dealer send it for me Incase it happened to come back and I was not home and he’s said S&W told them it’d take 3 to 5 business days to get the label and that didn’t sound right to me. Second question, when about did you send yours in? Thanks.
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Old 09-04-2018, 04:30 PM
TommyBoyABQ TommyBoyABQ is offline
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They e-mailed a shipping label and I was able to send it in the same day. I used the original box, just wrapped with brown shipping paper. It was in late July. You do need to have an adult sign for it when they send it back - doesn't have to be you...
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Old 09-05-2018, 03:11 AM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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Yeah I kind of thought that sounded a bit off. Oh well I guess that’s the price I pay for having someone else do it. I’d do it myself but more than likely there’d be no one home to sign for it when it came back. This way I’d at least know I could just go 5 mins up the street to get it when it came in.
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Old 09-05-2018, 06:18 PM
TommyBoyABQ TommyBoyABQ is offline
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Good luck, I hope your repair turns out as well as mine. I was certainly doubtful when I sent it in, but its all good now.
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Old 09-10-2018, 08:39 AM
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Shooter,

They usually sent the label by email and you have to print it.
When they sent mine, I gave it time and it never came. The
rep got the email wrong. I called back and asked them to resend it, and they stayed with me until I received it in my email.

Printed the label, boxed it up and sent it on. They got it in 3 days.
Unfortunately for me, it arrived during their annual shutdown.
Labor Day also set it back. Mine is supposedly repaired but in the shipping dept. Last week, rep advised shipping is behind at least
2 weeks. Rep told me to check back next week if I didn't hear from them
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  #26  
Old 09-20-2018, 03:16 PM
BillyMagg BillyMagg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smthwssonshootr View Post
Thanks for your reply. Yeah I forgot to post what mags I use, though I didnít think the mags wouldíve had anything to do with it. I have two mag pull 20 rd mags and 4 magpul 25 round mags. It does it with all the mags. I canít seem to find a good steel mag that fits the M&p 10. For example, I bought a 20 round aluminum mag (canít remmeber what brand) that said it was the type that my gun takes SR25 or lr308 pretty sure I was told they take both but I know the magpul I have are the same type that came with it) and it didnít fit, but the magbpuls are the same and they fit. Plus the mag I bought had a bad follower as it stuck when Iíd attempt to load it before I realized it didnít fit. My funds are limited right now which is why I WANT the cheap ammo to work (which supposedly it eventually will) but even the 17.99 Winchester and remington soft point ammo that works at first eventually starts malfunctioning too... of course this is after I tried the cheaper 15.00 a box perfecta and federal 7.62.. then after going home and cleaning it and going back to the range the 17 a box stuff works great again until I try something else that ends up not working. If I knew it take the defensive ammo I bought for it then Iíd be happy, but I like a gun that I have options on what I can use.

As far as a possible burr on the magazine, would this likely be the case even if it does it on all 6 of the mags I have for it? All 6, as I said, are mag pul (again, 2 20 rounders and 4 25) and thy all do it. Iíd think if it was a defect I. The magazine it wouldnít be for every mag of that brand, though hopefully you will correct me if Iím wrong on that. One person that looked at it (an AR tech that looked at it for free so it wasnít inspect3d just a once over kind of thing) said I could have a burr in the barrel or chamber itself, which if thatís the case thatíd be some5ing S&W would need to fix. Thanks again for your reply.

PS: hilltop... that sounds like Va?
sorry, I just saw your post, and realized that you have sent it in, and it is now awaiting return shipping... did they happen to say what they found?? they don't always
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Old 09-21-2018, 08:20 AM
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Billy Magg

You might be confusing "shooter's" replies with mine. My MP15Sport2 was the one in shipping, and returned. Functions fine. The whole story is in the MP15 section. S&W paperwork only indicated "replace bolt" I went back to them and the rep I spoke to went a lot further in finding out exactly what was wrong. It was not disclosed in the paperwork sent with the rifle.
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  #28  
Old 09-21-2018, 08:33 AM
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I'm late to this party, but in my world, an AR10 must be held tight to the shoulder. Excessive rear movement is kinda like limp wristing a Glock. Creates malfunctions similar to what you're describing. It's also always a good idea to have someone else shoot your malfunctioning firearm . . .
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  #29  
Old 10-10-2018, 10:04 PM
Smthwssonshootr Smthwssonshootr is offline
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I had several people shoot it. Wasn’t my technique for sure. Just want3 to let everyone know I got it back last Wednesday, took it out Friday and it worked perfectly. Even with cheap tulammo. Thanks for all the advice everyone.
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Old 10-11-2018, 07:23 AM
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Shooter,

Glad it worked out for you. Did S&W say what was wrong with it, or who worked on it? If Sam Gonzales worked on it, be assured that he's very thorough, and will check everything before clearing it to be shipped back.
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