The repair report did not state what they repaired nor did it indicate the problems. It was simply a series of numbers at the top of the page. However, the rifle does work now. It does not jam and runs the ammo perfectly.

Glad to hear you finally had a good outcome. Any piece of equipment (guns, cars, etc.) can come from the factory with malfunctions. That's why you buy one with a warranty. You did have me scared though as I read this thread last night and my buddy were going shooting our brand new Sports this morning. As in some of the advice, I added some extra lube to mine (a.k.a ran it wet) and of course ran a snake through the bore. Turned out my buddy did absolutely nothing with his out of the box. Both rigs ran fine with no malfunctions. You clearly got one with a problem and the manufacturer fixed it as they should. We both think this gun is great and love them for their price and performance. I also own a 15-22 that has run flawlessly since day one .

GREAT to hear


Ran 200rds thru my new S&W Sport yesterday and was awsome

Most of that was with the slide fire stock with 20rd DUMPS... and Not 1 hickup....

Love this guns.... Glad yers is DIALED now


Stav

Your buffer spring and ejector are working correctly. Some magazines are not happy feeders until broken in. Some just suck. As to the brass having scratches on the side of it, that is an ejector grabbing and pulling hard on the brass, as is the rim of the cartridge having a dent rather than a scuff.

My personal advice? Get a chamber brush, and slather it with some polishing compound. ( Automotive rubbing cxompound first.) Work the chamber well. Next, use a true polishing compound (Fine rubbing compound) Slather the chamber brushg with it, and again, work the chamber well.
The REASON: Melonite coating is very, very hard. Any machining grooves will be 'proud' after the treatment. Many, many rifgle chambers are not very polished. Of course, when you are manually working the bolt slowly, it is not an issue. This rings true for chrome lining also, but to a much lesser extent. The chrome tends to be slick by nature. If the machining was pretty good, the chrome is usually really slick in the chamber. Most are pretty smooth.
When i polish a chamber, I use a corless drill and chuck a single section of cleaning rod into the drill. I use a boat load of polishing compound, and I go SLOW. I do not spin 'er up and get it done quicker. Bad things happen..... 1/2 speed in low gear is about right. In and out gently, as it spins. You want to clean it up and just smooth out any rough edges inside....NOT polish it to the moon. Clean the chamber well between the 1st and 2nd polishing steps. Clean it well and lube it afterwards.
YES, you can do this with just 1 type of polishing compound. I recommend 2, but that is me.
NEVER use sandpaper in there.
For those who shoot a LOT, this type of extra cleaning will possibly need to be done every once in a while; say every 20,000 rounds or so. If you shoot steel (Wolf, Silver Bear, etc) you will maybe need to do this about every 12,000 or so.
After a polish job, most chambers will never need it again.
My Sport had no issue from the get go, but it did argue after 5,500 rounds. One polish job, and it's golden. 99% Wolf ammo.
My DPMS was just like your rifle at first. After 300 rounds, and some frustration, I polished it. 6,500 later...... still perfect.

Do NOT lube up mags. They will gall inside as they collect powder residue and dust. (Especially plastic type Pmags, etc. They are GREAT right out of the box. Don't ruin them prematurely.)

Just ran across this thread looking for info on S&W turnaround times. I had to send my brand new OR model in for the EXACT problem two weeks ago. I am familiar with the platform, and mine seemed to have the problem with more than 10 rounds in the magazine. I believe deeply that my bolt was coming forward before the magazine could push up the next round. If I spec'd and built the rifle then I would add buffers, etc, but I feel a rifle from the factory should have ZERO malfunctions, so it went back to the the folks who built her. Just hope to get her back soon in full working order. Then I can add my Spikes buffer, and BCM charging handle.

I have done this for years to new firearms. I use JB's bore paste and kroil oil to clean. Works good to clean any trash left behind in a bore too when kroil oil is added the the patch with the JB's.

It might be worth trying some different ammo. I have had A LOT of FTF and FTE problems with Remmington ammo across multiple calibers. I have never had a FTF or FTE in M&P15-22 except when using Remmington... needless to say I don't buy Remmington ammo anymore.

I hope you get it fixed! Nothing worse than a mulfunctioning weapon. Best of luck!

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The Paper Assassin

The 15-22 is known to be a little bit of a picky eater, especially when compared to a Ruger 10/22 or a Marlin 60.
With the right ammo, they seem to work really well, and few hiccups.

I agree! Call S&W. Thats why they put a warranty on the rifle.

I just created an account when I saw this, found the post searching for similar symptoms to mine. I bought my sport 3 weeks ago and it has bent a good number of cases so my issues have been identical to other posts on here. I assumed that it needs to "break in" but after bending 2 more cases today I emailed SW. Tried 7 brands of ammo through 3 brands of mags so I know it's something with the rifle. Other then that it's an excellent little rifle with amazing accuracy. To be fair i had a total of 5 bent cases / jams in 800 rounds (cleaned every 200) but every case shows scratching and small denting. I am very hopeful that S&W will fix it. Will call them in the morning.

I've been reading this forum and just joined today.
I have owned the M&P Sport since Oct of 2011 and after firing approx' 300 rds. of Lake City, Freedom Munitions and Remington I could not pull the bolt back more than 1/2" using the charging handle. I had to remove the rear pin and seperate the lower from the upper half and refasten which allowed me to fire a few more rounds and the same thing happened.
I sent it back to S&W and so far no problems.
I just wish they would state on the repair invoice the problem or at least what they did to repair, not even a 3 digit code that most companies use to distinguish the problem for tracking purposes. So far the Sport has worked fine and I am in NO WAY bashing S&W. They make great products and they stand by their warranty.
If any one knows what the problem could have been please share.

It really sounds like your BCG was getting jammed at an angle, but without being able to see the wear marks in your upper or on your BCG it is hard to tell. That is one of those things that make you go hmmmmm!

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Grover Oathkeeper

My M&P had problems like this right out of the box. They are over gassed as stated above. I swapped out the stock buffer for an H2 buffer from Spikes Tactical and solved the FTE and feeding jams.

Like all the others stated run it wet or another option is to put some bearing grease on the rails of the BCG.

That's what I do before going to the range. I put a dab of high temp bearing grease on my finger, and put a very light smear on the rails. A little goes a long way.

When I get home, clean rifle as normal. Quick light coat of CLP on the BCG for storage.

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-John

I use the copper high temp grease on mine, made to take a little more heat. Works like a champ but pretty pricey. If I didnt have it for brake jobs, lube the back of the pads so they float freely and dont squeal, I probably wouldnt have it

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Grover Oathkeeper

Id love to know what was wrong as well. I just joined here searching for just this sort of problem. I purchased an M&P 15 several months ago and have exactly the same problem. Taking back to store Monday. Here are my cartridges.

My friend is having this same problem with his m&p and i am with my mossberg 715t-chopping the lead out of the casings! anyone know why this is happening?

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please care, use hollowpoints

Bloody unnerving isn't it? After reading this forum Ill be taking my rifle back to S&W to have them sort it.

Wow. This thread resurrected itself. I'm sure S&W will sort out the issue with your rifle. I've only had one instance of a cartridge getting jammed up like that, and not on my S&W. It happened on my home built AR. The best I could figure is that a lightly charged cartridge didn't provide enough gas to fully cycle the BCG. The short stroke caught the round while it was tilted and jammed it into a lug.

Drop mag, clear the action, triple confirmed the rifle was in a safe condition. Separated the upper from the lower, then shined a light down the bore from the muzzle end to check for a bore obstruction. No barrel obstruction. Reassemble & continued my range session.

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-John

Wonder if the practice of oiling the magazines to prevent jams was taught before the introduction of the 'anti-tilt' follower??

Before the ATF was introduced some magazines did have a tendency to allow the rounds to tilt in the magazine causing mis-feeds and a little oil would help alleviate the tilting problem.

These days I just disassemble my mags and wipe the internals down with an oily cloth cuz I ditched the ones that weren't ant-tilt.

The SS magazines I own are Teflon coated on the inside.

__________________
AKA: "Strange Tamer"

Update:

Just picked it up last night from being sent back to Smith & Wesson. Haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but it appears someone has run it through its paces, outside of barrel and gas tube under handguard looks like it got pretty warm and BCG is coated in black residue.... I was actually glad to see this as it seemed to indicate to me at least someone got her to run. Broke it down and cleaned it after I got home to see if I could see evidence of something different as S&W sent no information as to what was done, if anything. The lube on the recoil spring smelled different and the bolt was much smoother in the carrier and of course the black residue were all I could find.

Today I received an e-mail from the store that sent it in for me and was told, "We did in fact send in your gun for repair because of the feed ramp and chamber not aligning. When Smith and Wesson send repaired firearms back to us, they just send and invoice with the Serial Number listed and say that the gun has been repaired to Smith and Wesson’s specifications and if there are any questions to call and inquire."

I plan to shoot it this weekend, hope it works.

Thanks for the informative thread, been a pleasure.
Doc

I purchased a new Sport in early October. I was just able to put the first rounds through it over Thanksgiving. Using American Eagle 223 and a Thermold 20 round mag my Sport functioned perfectly regardless of loading technique. No jams. Very accurate-3 of 5 touching at 25 yards with open sights. Empties land at 4:00 about 6 feet back. Very happy with my Sport.

From the problem you describe I suggest sending your Sport and the mag it came with back to S&W for warranty. Your Sport is basically new. At least give them the chance to evaluate it and repair or replace the upper.

My Sport had a cosmetic defect when i received it--the barrel was scratched, maybe when the FSB was installed. I bought the Sport through the Internet and the seller would not exchange. (Good reason to buy from your LGS- shame on me). I explained the problem to S&W and they replaced the entire upper under warranty.

For warranty go through customer service at the S&W website. They pay shipping both ways through FedEx and give you tracking numbers to follow progress both ways. Return delivery is to your door, but the driver needs an adult signature. I had FedEx hold my return at their service center and picked it up from their service center. My warranty return took 4 weeks. I also sent a S&W 686 revolver in for recall once, and that recall turnaround took 10 days. I've had S&W revolvers for
25+ years. Because of my experience with S&W revolvers when I bought an AR I bought a S&W.

I think it is important to note that the firing pin on this rifle is free floating and applying the safety only prevents the trigger from releasing the hammer. Theoretically, you can have a chambered round and drop the rifle and end up with a discharge since there is no fire pin block or retainer for the pin.

LOL. Well... who IS the authority on AR's? Eugene Stoner? Ruger puts the same instruction in their owners manual. They got in the AR business later than Smith did.

I'm gonna align mine some time and see if it still works.

I hope you aren't expecting Dragon to answer you, since the post is three years old and 99% of the guys who responded are no longer actively participating in the forum.

I was going to mention the same thing, I installed a new buffer spring and H1 buffer in mine and that helped with slowing down the timing on it. I agree with others, and yes the M&P 15 Sport is over gassed. With the original spring and carbine buffer, it would extract the casings at 1:00 O'clock, with the new spring and H1 buffer right at 3:00 O'clock.

Glad someone else has noticed that this ol' equine has expired. or at least should have.

On the gas ring thing, They operate just like piston rings in an engine. Every engine I've worked on (cars and motorcycles)not only has the gaps NOT lined up but has an exact location for the gap of each ring listed in the manual.

don't really actively participate, read a lot, just wanted to say I did have a spot on post on the first page of this thread

Actually, Since this was brought back to the top, I didn't at first notice the date until I got to MY post! But I was thinking, hmmm, this sounds similar to the way my Ruger AR556 started out....

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Rod
M&P 22A, 40c, 15A, 15-22

It seems the more knowledge people have about firearms, the stranger their advice gets to a simple question. Basically if you bought a firearm that has a lifetime warranty, and it doesn't go *BANG* when you pull the trigger, send it back to the manufacturer. You shouldn't be worrying about too much or too little oil, this or that, or anything else brought up. In a SHTF situation the last thing you want is an undependable firearm.
I have a MAC-90 that has never failed me. Not once, no matter how poorly I treat it. I have been shooting it for around 25 years. However, my new S&W Sport II has been garbage so far. It's going back.

How many times can a dead cat bounce?

In a SHTF situation you want to be able to remedy the problem yourself and can't say "hold on until my firearm returns from the factory".

No you can't. You have to assume there won't be CLP, or any opportunity to find parts for your non-functioning firearm. You have what you have in a SHTF scenario. You can't go shopping. Your firearm should be dependable without the need to baby it. Over a period of a few years, yes, but if the SHTF only lasts for a few weeks or months you shouldn't need to be messing with it in order for it to function properly.

Another point to my post is in the real world. If you start messing with the functionality of your firearm then you will probably invalidate the life-time warranty. My point is simple. If it doesn't go bang, send it back. I contacted S&W today and they seem to be quick and easy to work with. They are in the process of paperwork so I can send in my Sport II for repair.

I keep on hand parts for the BCG group. In a SHTF situation, old crankcase oil could be put on parts for lube. No firearm will go on for ever without lube, not even my Glock.
I agree that a brand new firearm that won't go bang may have to go back to the LGS, but only after you have looked at and inspected the firearm which I believe should be taken apart and cleaned before a range session. If you can't tell what the problem is, then send it back.

The three rings are redundant. Your AR will run with one ring. Run an Internet search.

That post is over 3 years old...

Hi All,

Knowing that this thread is old, and a lot of folks had the same problem moving forward, just wanted to comment. Had pretty much the same problem with mine that was returned to the factory and corrected. (mp15 short stroking thread)

Essentially, mine would fire, extract and eject, but not load a fresh cartridge. The bolt was not being blown back far enough. S&W replaced the whole bolt carrier assembly and sent it back within a month.

Their paperwork really didn't say much except that they replaced the bolt. I called S&W CS and pretty much pleasantly pushed the issue for my own knowledge. The rep I spoke to found in the factory records on my rifle, that the gas key screws had cracked and loosened, allowing a major gas leak.

The members here maintained that there was a big problem in the gas system which was verified. Being that there are no zombies at my door, I sent it back to S&W under their warranty which was honored. Bottom line was S&W paid for shipping both ways and repairing the rifle. Now, I could have bought a new BCG at my own cost and repaired it myself. BUT why should I pay out 80 to 150 for a bolt at my expense when the rifle is under warranty, and there is no civil unrest in my area at this time?

S&W CS will share any factory info on repairs if you ask and are persistent. Apparently S&W knows of a problem and will remedy it. in my case the bad screws have happened 1 in 600,000 times with S&W manufactured bolts. I noticed that, when inspected mine, that the screws were staked differently than the original bolt that came with the rifle.

Looks like 88 times SO FAR.

__________________
CSM, U S Army(Ret) 1963-1990

Hi Guys,

Just a thought - who cares how old a thread is if it will help someone down the road? Isnt that what this forum is all about? Helping others with a free exchange of information, ideas or opinions? Whats the big deal if a post gets updated with current info? I seem to be missing something here.

Because when you bump an old post and try to address members that originally posted, often they are not even active on the forum any longer.

Hang around awhile... the topics become very monotonous... even worse when you find that you are reading old posts multiple times.

Cyphertext

Thanks for the explanation

I don't want to discourage new members from posting... search the old threads and if you still aren't sure about your issue, post away! But preferably in a new thread vs. one that has been silent for two or three years.

How to Lube an AR-15:

I use two lubes, (1) Breakfree CLP and (2) Breakfree LP. LP is just like CLP except it does not contain the cleaning solvent found in CLP. It is therefore more viscous and "stays put" better. If you can't find it in gun stores, you can find it online.

1. LP generously on the locking lugs, cam pin, and piston rings.
2. LP lighter where the bolt carrier group rides in the receiver.
3. CLP lightly on the firing pin, and in the fire control parts in the lower.

When I first shoot my AR, oil comes out the exhaust ports. I haven't cleaned it in quite a while; it's only necessary to keep adding lube generously.

ARs can run dirty and wet; but they can't run dirty and dry.

If generous lubrication does not cure the problem, it's the gun.

Oil on the ammo or the chamber is a bad idea.

When the gun is fired, the brass appears to the expanding hot gas to be as soft as rubber. The case expands to obturate and in this process, firmly grips the chamber wall. Oiling the ammo or the chamber means this grip is reduced; the result is an increase in "bolt thrust," which is the case's tendency to push backwards against the bolt face. Increasing bolt thrust puts more stress on the bolt face and locking lugs. Not a good idea.

Since we're dragging up old threads, I'll add my own anecdotal advice. Sure, AR's might run good wet if you're using them constantly, but NEVER over lube cartridges/ chamber/receiver/magazines, and then store the rifle. It can cause a round not to fire due to oil seeping into the primer. I don't care what other "experts" might say about this, I proved it to myself years ago in several different guns. I keep most of my rifles loaded with a round chamber for my own reasons. If you clean and lube the gun, make sure you wipe out the excess .