Looking at replacing the standard A2 with a YHM Phantom 5c2 flash hider on my M&P15x. The guy at a LGS says to install all I need to do is apply some red loctite and screw it on by hand. Manufacterer recommends tightening to around 30lbs with torque wrench, most likely needing a crush washer to index correctly.

Anybody been able to get away with what the LGS guy recommended (loctite and screw on by hand)?

__________________
686/M&P9 Pro/M&P15X/M&P15-22

By all means, follow the manufacturer's directions. Either a crush or a peel washer will let you index it correctly. It is a good excuse to buy an AR wrench and then no one will ask who did the half-assed job installing the hider. Good luck!

Depends on the brand. I run AAC products and no washer needed on their blackout product which is their flash hider. I did use a torque wrench and rocksett though.

I wouldn't use Loctite. Most people don't. you mAy need a washer shim kit to get it to index correctly. Some muzzle brakes need it, some don't. ask the manufacturer. some muzzle brakes have to be installed a certain way so dust doesn't kick up when shooting prone

It's like you didn't even read the post, beyond the title. I've already been over what the manufacturer recommended (around 30lbs torque), and that it will "most likely needing a crush washer to index correctly" which does in fact indicate that it has to be installed a certain way.

I know you're just trying to be helpful but for crying out loud you can't be helpful if you aren't paying attention!

I'm just wondering if anyone has had any luck taking shortcuts with it, or if the torque wrench and all is really necessary. Sometimes shortcuts work (like replacing the trigger spring with one from a certain ball point pen on a marlin bolt gun to greatly reduce trigger pull), but sometimes they don't. I doubt Marlin would recommend replacing the spring with one from a clicky pen, but that did work so sometimes what the manufacturer says matters and sometimes it doesn't.

__________________
686/M&P9 Pro/M&P15X/M&P15-22

Maybe an anger management course is in order before the installation. :-)

No kidding

Classy. Remind me to never offer you any advice in the future.

Hmmm....when I read your post, my take away was the manufacturer recommended the torque wrench. You were suggesting a crush washer would most likely be needed. So when jwalts27 mentioned the crush washer, he was confirming what you were suggesting. Made sense to me.

Perhaps I can't read (and there seems to be at least one other in this thread too) or perhaps your writing isn't as clear as you think it is. Been there, done that too.

Either way....back off on the attitude a bit....you'll fit in better around here.

As for an answer to your question. I would never tighten it by hand and rely on Loctite to hold it in place.

__________________
Stu

I make no apology, and have no "attitude". When I wrote my original question, I worded it specifically to avoid that exact type of response. Think if that was a conversation in the real world, where I specifically mention having gone to the manufacturer, and the response I get is "ask the manufacturer". I specifically mention that it's most likely going to need a crush washer to index correctly, and the response I get is "some muzzle brakes have to be installed a certain way so dust doesn't kick up when shooting prone". If you overheard that conversation, would you still think I had an attitude when I tell the other guy he's not paying attention to what I'm saying?

Gimme a break.

__________________
686/M&P9 Pro/M&P15X/M&P15-22

Knock off the bickering

Forget the loctite.

Put the crush washer on the barrel with the flare facing out (meaning the flare will be up against the flash hider). Thread the flash hider on hand tight. Tighten with a wrench at least 90 degrees but no more than a full turn beyond that to index. Done.

The Jerry Milculek anti-muzzle rise compensator I installed on my 'T' uses a jam nut instead of a crush washer so the timing can be fine tuned.

__________________
AKA: "Strange Tamer"

On the Firearms Talk forum there is a stickey that gives detailed instructions and some good tips about crush washers, worth taking a look at.

I'm an alarm/security field tech. I call tech support from numerous manufacturers on a weekly basis. The first thing a support rep picks up on when something isn't working properly is its out of manufacturers specs or parts being used are not on the manufacturers compatibility list. At that point the support rep says, get it in spec with approved/listed parts and call back if there still a problem! The moral of the story: The manufacturer designed it and the procedure to make it operate the way it is meant to! Install it the way the manufacturer prescribes or live with the consequences.

Red Loc-Tite is used in applications where disassembly isn't normally required and heavy duty tools will be required for disassembly. It should not be used for falsh suppressors.

Manufacturers of parts and firearms manufacturers print installation instructions and assembly/maintenance manuals for a reason. You rarely, if ever, go wrong following them.

You could either use a crush washer or a peel washer. [The peel washer is a stack of thin shims, you peel off layers of the shim pack until the suppressor indexes properly at the specified torque. 30 lbs seems a wee bit much for a 1/2 x 28 thread.]