Does S&W make an AR15 chambered in 7.62x39?

No they don't.

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-John

I really didnt want to stray from S&W brand so that sucks...What would be my best route to get a 7.62 in an AR platform?

300 Blackout.... ballistics of a 7.62X39, case head size of a 5.56.... a bit pricy though, the ammo that is.... the only thing different on the rifle is the barrel..... bolt, springs all the same, uses stock AR mags to full capacity.... if you reload even the ammo is easy, if not, it may not be your cup o tea....

The Rock River Arms LAR-47 comes to mind.

http://www.rockriverarms.com/index.c...ategory_ID=558

That's as close to AR-15 as I can find. The lower magwell is special to accept AK mags.

If I was looking for 30 caliber at that price and wanted An AR platform, I'd go with a M&P 10. I shudder at the thought of .308 Win ammo cost. The other choice is 300 AAC Blackout. The issue again is ammo.

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-John

The abundance and price of 7.62 ammo is what started the wheels turning, it wouldn't have any other purpose other than a "fun" gun. And as you guys already stated the price of ammo for the 300 and .308 are insane.

Not if you reload.. And not if you cast your own boolits.... And I'm paying less for 300 blk than I did 8 months ago for 223...

If 300 blk catches on, I would see $.40 as being a reasonable cost. Pistol powder, pulled 308 bullets and cut down 223 brass....

Gathering up scrap lead, smelting it, casting rifle boolets, gas checking, lubing...

I am a reloader, but even I think sticking to a FMJ rifle projectile is worth the cost.

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-John

Sticking with S&W an M&P AR 10. They also make PMags for that model. It is "Mil-Spec" so you can switch out stocks and some other items.

You go to a 308 (7.62) in AR,do your home work. Ruger also makes an SR 762 (piston driven) that will handle Mil-Spec stocks/some parts and also will use PMags.

Some like RR will only use the parts made by them if you are a "parts swapper" like most of us.

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THIS WE'LL DEFEND ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

If you want to shoot 7.62 X 39mm, why not go with an AK-47?

Widener's Reloading and Shooting Supply INC

Caveat: I have no idea what to look for in an AK-47. Russian, Bulgarian, Romanian, Chinese, etc... the import changes, cutting out mag wells, relocation of trigger groups, canted sights etc.

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-John

I have owned a couple AK's, SKS's and sold them off.Really not a fan of them.Great guns, just looking for something in that caliber that's maybe a little more modern as far as ergonomics.

I hear ya. I've been on the fence on owning an AK. The only modern ones that come to mind are the Sig 556R and the new Sig 556xi Russian.

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-John

Those are both good lookin rifles and might be just what im looking for..Thanks JaPes, I will definatly be looking into them further. And beings their Sig's I wouldn't mind adding another one to my collection!

Cabelas regularly has their Herters brand .308 ammo for $10.99 a box of 20. Even though .223 is available for cheaper, that's on par with much of the 5.56 ammo. Yes, it's steel cased, but oh well!

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686/M&P9 Pro/M&P15X/M&P15-22

Build your own!!! I'm in the process of doing it as we speak. New barrel, mags, and bolt face. Voila! Maybe I'll start a thread on it...


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-Dik

Ruger makes makes a nice Mini-14 in that caliber. I own one, it's light, fun to shoot and more accurate than an AK.

If you want the M&P 15 brand, I would buy a stripped M&P lower receiver and put a lower parts kit in it. Then buy a complete upper, BCG and magazine. The bolt carrier group/charging handle might come with the complete upper, you will have to read description carefully (some do, some don't).
Assembling a stripped lower is very easy with just a few tools from the garage. The buffer tube requires a special tool for $8. Somebody on here might know how to tighten buffer without the special tool.

I don't know if you mean the tube itself or the nut. I just put a pistol buffer tube in a poly lower I just finished and that was absolutely awful to get the last few turns. Had to turn so hard I now have two blood blisters at the callusesat the base of my fingers. Which is saying a lot because those spots are pretty hard from riding dirt bikes for 20 years. I ended up having to wrap a leather belt around it to get a better grip. I don't think this is as much of an issue with an aluminum lower though. The nut is actually the trickier part(not harder per se) without the tool. You can do it with a small standard screwdriver and large standard screwdriver, but it's VERY tricky and not worth the hassle when you can find the right tool for that cheap. Any decent LGS will tighten it for you after you get it all together.



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-Dik

I believe they call that one the Mini-30.

You are right ...same basic gun, different name. I own one of both and like them both. If it came down to having to carry and AR or a Mini all day, I'd take the mini as I find it easier to carry.

I have a red dot on my Mini 30, it's a perfect 100 yd and in SD gun, as well as a medium game gun. Heavy hitting, light, reasonable recoil, 30 round mag and easy to maneuver.

If I'm looking for longer range, that's what my SOCOM and EOTECH is for.

JMO

I think the easiest way to get your x39 AR on the M&P is to get a sport and buy the x39 parts you need which, depending on specific parts, ran me
$145-7.62x39 pistol barrel (7.5")
$75-7.62 assembled bolt (not bcg, just bolt. I'm just using the sport bcg)
$15-enhanced firing pin designed for 7.62x39. They're just a bit longer for reliable strikes in the hard russian ammo.
$18 a piece for the 7.62x39 AR mags

You can make your own firing pin by taking just a tiny bit off the part of the firing pin that determines how deep it goes, the face that hits the bolt. There's great tutorials online on how to do it, and how much to take off if you know a machinist, but I decided $15 was cheap enough to be able to keep my stock firing pin to use it in another build. I got all the parts from AR15depot.com. Everything was in stock and shipped pretty quick. I just looked and the 16" 7.62x39 barrel is $185 so that would factor in, but at about $300 on top of a sport you're still paying less than a Pony!! Lol


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-Dik

I have an AR in 7.62x39. I assembled mine 4-5 years ago. it`s a Rock River lower w/Geissele SSA trigger, Del-Ton upper, LMT bolt, MOE stock and use the older C-Products mags. The upper(from Del-Ton) was not set up M4 style and had to get an M4 upper and smooth out the barrel ramps. Parts were scarce then and I sold my original upper for about what I paid for the new one. But if I had to do it all over today I would get either a complete rifle or the complete upper from Armalite. Bushmaster also has one. The previously mentioned "new' Rock River I think limits you to a one caliber lower where you could use a conventional AR lower for multiple calibers simply by changing the upper. Check out budsgunshop.com under Armalite or Bushmaster and that`s the way I would go today.

Good Luck,John

Oh I guess I should mention that 7.62x39 is a very finicky round in an AR. Much ado's post about feedramps reminded me. The round is bigger in diameter(obviously), but it lowers the centerline of the round, the point or tip I guess you'd call it. Anyway, with it being a larger round it also pushes it closer to the middle of the mag, thus when it gets pushed out of the mag into the feedramps it hits the feedramps at a different spot than a normal .223/5.56 would. It hits lower and closer to the center. So M4 feedramps are pretty much a must, and many people open up the feedramps a bit just to ensure reliability. Open them up towards the center. The other issue, I've been having and heard others have, is the mags. The 30's do look pretty goofy, but that's not the problem lol. What happens is with the case of the round being larger, the rim hits the rib of the mag on the inside. Kinda hard to explain through text. There's only metal GI-style mags designed for the x39 AR as of yet, and I don't think there'll ever be enough demand for anyone to go through the manufacturing process to make a poly one. So the metal mags have those ribs that run the length of them and at the very top the rim of the case hits that rib on it's way out. Polishing it up helps tremendously. You can run your normal .223 mags and only load 5 or so x39's in it with decent reliability, but any more than that and you'll get problems. The dedicated x39 mags go straight for a little bit at the top to go into the magwell so it's the same shape as your normal .223 mags for the first 4" or so. And the x39's use 5.56 followers, at least my ASC's do, so in theory the top 4" or so is identical, that's why you can run around 5 rounds with decent reliability out of either mag. Sorry for being so long-winded, I'm just pretty excited about my build and did a LOT of research on the x39 before I started.


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-Dik

That's when a lot of people started loosing interest in the Mini 14 series when Ruger went/added the 7.62x39. We wanted a (same size mini in) 7.62x51 and "they" handed us that 7.62x39. I still have my old 181 series Mini in 5.56 and love it.

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THIS WE'LL DEFEND ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

I meant buffer tube nut. running up the buffer tube to the detent is nothing, but I built an aluminum receiver.

Dikinalaska probably has the best idea. Then if you needed or wanted to sell, you have a factory rifle. If I sold the one I built, I would just sell it as a bunch of parts. I don't believe it has near the value as a factory built rifle, but that's just my opinion.
However, I don't have but $428 in my home built (mostly Ptac) rifle.

I want to build a 9mm rifle but the cost is prohibitive and I'm afraid I would have a bunch of money in a jamomatic!