I have an MOE MID with the flash hider that could double as a shark cage. The other day I pulled the rifle out of the case and noticed what appeared to be some pitting, some small circular discolored spots and some oxidation. It's all confined to the flash hider. The rifle has not been near moisture or temperature changes, it's been in the bag almost all winter with the exception of being fitted for a scope, again, never leaving the house.

I tried rubbing it out with a rag and some oil. (First I used a cleaner) Both the cleaner and oil, by the way, were Hoppes, which I've used on firearms since Christ left Chicago.

Has anyone else experienced this? I did a search on google which didn't yield much, just some suggestions on removing rust with a bronze brush. I've not seen any "rust" residue on the rag or nylon brush I used to clean it but I'm concerned it may lead to that if I don't find a way to mitigate what's going on.

Most will recommend not keeping the rifle in a bag or case, as the materials can hold moisture. If you are going to keep in in the bag, I would put a few desiccant packs in there with it.

It's in a tactical bag and there are packs of silica gel in there. Never had a problem with any other firearm (40 years worth) and the flash hider is the only piece involved.

The flash hider may have been contaminated before it was coated. Post up a pic if you can. If it's materially defective, call S&W. Otherwise it sounds like a good excuse to swap out the muzzle device.

I keep my rifle in a case. I make sure to give all the exterior surfaces a wipe with a CLP moistened rag. I also pull it out every 4 to 5 weeks to give it a a wipe.

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-John

Highly agree. NEVER leave ANY weapon in the bag or case. They can hold moisture from just high humidity in the air. Air temp changes can create moisture inside a bag or case as well. Desiccant packs can help,but aren't a cure or a 100% safe bet.

In a damp climate it's best to just check everything every couple weeks or at least once a month.

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Thanks, I'll try a pic in the next day or two. I always wipe down exterior surfaces with a little oil before storing. This is the first time I've run into an issue.

Thanks. Like I was telling JaPes, this is the first time I've run into a problem. I was just wondering if anyone else has been hearing of issues with the flash hiders.

Hard case or soft ? Ever have any problems with "oil" and the case interior ? I haven't yet, but "yet" is the key word. I mainly keep mine in a safe.

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Soft, ballistic nylon, no foam. I don't leave my firearms sopping wet with oil. No issues so far.

I'm also not in a super high humidity all year round environment. I'm also pulling out the rifles at least once a month. I'm tapping away on a cell phone, so I'm being short because I hate pecking away at tiny virtual keys.

When I pull out the rifles, I field strip and inspect them. I moisten a rag with CLP and give surfaces a wipe to leave a very thin film on it. I'll push a dry patch down the bore looking for any signs of corrosion. I'll visually inspect the chamber looking for corrosion. I'll then push a CLP wetted patch down the bore.

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-John

That is natural erosion on many hiders, check the BCM site on their flash hiders as they explain it well. Has nothing to do with the case.

Erosion implies wear. This rifle hasn't been fired yet. It was purchased before the snow started to fly and spent the winter in the case, getting cleaned, oiled and fitted for a scope. I checked the BCM site. or what I thought was the BCM site and didn't see the explanation on their flash suppressor page. Do you have a link? Thanks!

Since it is strictly the hider it would suggest corrosion from test firing and storage. I would clean and shoot the beans out of the rifle and clean it again to determine if future corrosion will result, seems like it is cosmetic at this point and not loss of metal from firing. Read below the BCM listing for their gunfighter comp .....where a detailed explanation of loss of material from firing can occur.

Thanks, I'll check that out. The offending area is on the outside of the suppressor. I was wondering, if it is the start of corrosion, how to stop it. If I buffed it out with a little flitz and a dremel would I be creating more of an issue by removing whatever protective surface there is there? Or, will I be able to then apply a coating of something, or stay ahead of it with a little oil if I do "wheel it out"?

I know I'll get some bad reactions...

If it were me, I'd just give it a good wipe with solvent and then a wipe with a lube moistened rag. It's an extended bird cage flash hider. Should the corrosion progress and become an issue, A2 flash hiders can be purchased for $10 to $15 and installed in a jiffy.

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-John

+1.....I keep all my rifles in a case and have never had any issues. I love when people make blanket statements about how to absolutely never do something, only to have people with empirical data refuting those claims i.e. people using gun bags/cases for years with zero issues.

The blanket statements are there because there is no way to gauge the level of background knowledge and experience of anyone who may read the post. In general, the advice to not keep firearms stored in a case is correct. Cases can retain moisture. They do not allow air circulation around the firearm. The correct storage of a firearm is in a safe equipped with a humidity mitigating device. It's better for someone who doesn't have extensive background knowledge to get a sound blanket statement, than the "sometimes works" alternative.

The issue is that I don't have the space for some of my firearms in a safe, because I need a bigger safe.

This is the single reason I keep some firearms in a case. This is the single reason why they get field stripped, inspected, cleaned, and lubed every month. By doing this I mitigate the risk of corrosion. I don't eliminate the risk. It bothers the heck out of me, but there's nothing I can do immediately to address the issue.

It's a choice. Best to have the info to make an informed choice.

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-John

Worst case, buy another one for 10 bucks and call it good. I found the same issue on my 15-22 and coated it with M-Pro 7 cleaner and then LPX. Never gave it another thought.

Since this is for a 28 TPI rifle, you have a ton of choices if you want to change it out.

photo please

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I'll get you guys a pic tomorrow. Thanks.

There are people who have had zero issues, but there are also people who have had issues. I can show you several rifles that my father in law owns that were stored in cases, and the case held moisture and caused rust.

I can also show you a revolver that was stored in a leather holster and also has rust spots from the leather retaining moisture from the air.

A little blurry, sorry. Autofocus doesn't seem to want to get out of bed. Hopefully you can get the idea. The rest of the rifle is pristine, BCG, everything. Just the FH seems to have some oxidation or something going on.

Try Flitz maybe?

I am not sure I see a problem....

I'd just hit with some CLP and a brush. All my AR's with the bird cage FHs have that white stuff. Think of unburned powder particles hitting the metal at 50,000 PSI, it's hard to believe it would stay pristine.

BIF it really bothers you a lot you could pull it, clean it and hit with some header or bbq paint, or the oven cure gun finish Brownells sells. But it will probably just come back, so I wouldn't bother.

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Mine looks the same. I just wipe it with CLP. It's gonna happen. Nothing I can do about it.

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-John

Thanks. My problem lies with it didn't, and now it does, without ever being shot. So something is going on. This just happened over a period of a couple of months. I may have to re-take a picture, (maybe the battery is shot), because it's more substantial than what this picture shows. The oxidation is taking place all over the outside of it, not just the cage area, but if you look close, even back where the indents are for the wrench.

I know it's not the end of the world and these things are pretty cheap. Just wondered if anyone had ever buffed this kind of stuff out and if so, is there a coating on them that would be compromised as a result and need to be replaced?

If it is as you describe, I am willing to bet the flash hider wasn't properly cleaned prior to the anodizing process. Take a good picture, and send it to S&W. Maybe they'll send you out a birdcage to install yourself.

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-John

Moe, I know that mine seems to build up over time as well. Not a problem when I am taking a gun to the range regularly, but it does develop after sitting. I would guess that it's a reaction between the nitrates and phosphates in the powder with the parkerizing. But again, I see no reason to be concerned. It will not affect function, and CLP and a brush will take care of it. Or better yet, go shoot that thing and blow it off!

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True...although the shipping will be more than the A2....

Swap it out with a Smith Enterprises Vortex flash eliminator.

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-John

Thanks. They look nice. I may do that after I abuse the one that's on there for a bit. How much of a science project is it to swap these things out? Torque wrench? Is it a reverse thread? Do I need a vise, replaceable crush washers, 3 hour video on the process, make sure my life insurance premium is paid? (although if I'm dead I suppose it wouldn't matter)

Just hang onto the barrel near the FH with a padded tool, put a wrench on it and lefty-loosey. You probably should use a new crush washer, but I would bet you can re-install and time without too much problem.

DON'T just crank on the FH without supporting the barrel- you can put enough torque on the barrel extension to strip the upper or index pin.

And I am sure there are hours of youtubes available if you need them

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Pop the upper in a vise block. Use the appropriate size open end wrench (3/4"?). Lefty loosey. Righty tighty. Torque to 15 to 20 ft-lbs. and index the muzzle device. Most will need a new crush washer.

I was thinking of replacing the birdcage on my Sport. I'm partial to the Smith Enterprises Vortex because it doesn't need to be indexed. It doesn't need a crush washer. The instructions state to hand tighten the flash hider, and it will self tighten.

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-John

The finish on the flash hider on my MOE middy was messed up out of the box. I didn't care for the thing, so I replaced it with a YHM Phantom.

Friend of mine "borrowed" my (tack driving) 10/22 for Rat/Pest hunting on the farm while I was on a road construction project years ago. He kept it in a soft case in the back of his closet (insted of his gun case like he said he would). Said it would never bother it. Turned the barrel into a pitted rust bucket. We ended up sandblasting it to bare metal,filling the craters with Epoxy and using Stove Pipe Paint to cover the damage. That was over 35 (??) years ago, it's still a tack driver and going strong. Although now, it's worth nothing more than sentimental value (got it for my 21st Birthday cost was $69.) and a lesson hard learned (by him). I did have the barrel tested before I went through all the trouble and work. At that time, another friend (and gunsmith) said if the barrel was replaced it would probably never shoot the same. Being it was "lightly" rust pitted,we could try the sandblast/epoxy trick.

It's lasted all these years. BUT,I would NEVER try doing that with a higher power barrel. I'm no Spring Chicken and the 10/22 is a good 42 years old now.

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