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Old 01-21-2016, 11:36 PM
sgoss66 sgoss66 is offline
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First AR coming soon -- initial cleaning advice? First AR coming soon -- initial cleaning advice? First AR coming soon -- initial cleaning advice? First AR coming soon -- initial cleaning advice? First AR coming soon -- initial cleaning advice?  
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Default First AR coming soon -- initial cleaning advice?

Hi all --

Just ordered a new M&P15 Sport, which should be delivered to the store I purchased from soon. I'm really looking forward to it, as this will be my first AR; until now it's been deer rifles and shotguns, and recently a new Sig SP2022 handgun in .40 cal.

My question is this -- does anyone have a good article or video handy, that details how to field strip, and then properly clean/lube these rifles, including the best lube and cleaning products to use? I have all kinds of random stuff, including cleaning rods, brushes, tips, gunslick, rem oil, etc. etc., but not sure exactly what is best to use, nor how to clean and lube an AR properly. If anyone knows of a good link offhand, I'd appreciate it. If not, I can always scrounge around on my own and find something...

Thanks!

Steve

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Old 01-21-2016, 11:57 PM
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Take a look at the notable threads in the stickies at the top... there is a cleaning thread in there that might interest you.
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Old 01-22-2016, 12:05 AM
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If I remember, there is a very good Youtube video on the subject. As long as no planes are broke, I can look for it at work and link it for you.
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Old 01-22-2016, 12:25 AM
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Here's a few that you might find of use...





And a couple which aren't videos...

Cleaning the AR-15 Rifle

AR-15 Hacks: How to Clean Your Rifle Like a Boss - OutdoorHub
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:59 AM
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It looks like blues7 covered it but here is the link as promised:
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:50 AM
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Thanks for posting it, Sarge. I haven't come across that one and it's always interesting to learn new techniques or nuances from another point of view.
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Old 01-22-2016, 11:40 AM
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blues and sgt -- THANKS KINDLY, gents, for the links. That'll keep me busy for awhile. Gives me something productive to do, while I'm waiting to get the call that the rifle has arrived!

cyphertext -- thanks for the hint on the "notable threads" sticky. Didn't think of looking in there...
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Old 01-22-2016, 12:37 PM
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My pleasure. Just trying to give back a little of what I've received so often since hanging around these parts.
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:48 PM
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Cleaning procedure for ANY new gun:

1. Open the box, remove gun;

2. Read manual -- all of it;

3. Read manual again;

4. Clean/lube exactly as manual describes.
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:04 PM
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Pisgah --

Don't worry, I will. I don't often read manuals, at least not the entire thing, for most things I buy, but weapons are different -- it's part of the responsibility of gun ownership to know your weapon, IMO.

I figure the manual will guide me on the cleaning, but since I don't have the gun/manual yet, I was just looking to get a head start while I'm waiting -- and especially being new to the AR, I figured I pick up some terminology and such, as well, as I dig into the field strip/cleaning instructionals...

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Originally Posted by Pisgah View Post
Cleaning procedure for ANY new gun:

1. Open the box, remove gun;

2. Read manual -- all of it;

3. Read manual again;

4. Clean/lube exactly as manual describes.
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Old 01-24-2016, 01:14 AM
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Thank you all for the great links/videos. I watched/read a bunch of the stuff over the past couple of days, and as of today I'm the proud owner of a S&W M&P15 Sport! It came with the 30 rd. PMAG, a S&W hard case, and Caldwell magazine charger. Essentially, it was a left-over "Black Friday" special, a "kit," that a friend who works for Academy was able to locate for me at a distant store.

After watching/reading from the info you all provided, I was able to easily field strip the rifle, clean and lube it, and now I'm ready to go for my first range outing! I have a Magpul OD green furniture kit on the way, as well as a CMMG .22 lr conversion kit -- and an initial supply of .22 lr and .223 ammo. Can't wait to give it a go!

Thanks everyone!
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Old 01-24-2016, 01:36 AM
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I tried to get that package, but both Academy stores in my area were out of stock.
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:01 AM
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My initial cleaning/inspection routine:
1. Watch videos to learn how to field strip an AR-15 and an AR-15 Bolt Carrier Group (BCG).

2. Field strip firearm. Field Strip BCG.

3. Using a flashlight, inspect the firearm. Look for anything grossly wrong with the AR. Even though you don't have any experience with the AR-15, you can at least look for anything out of the ordinary. The added benefit is that you are taking a snapshot of your firearm as it is now. Every cleaning, you compare mental snapshots to identify wear patterns and possible failure indicators.

4. Using a solvent moistened or all in one clean-lube-protect product moistened rag, quickly wipe out the upper receiver, the charging handle, the disassembled bolt carrier parts.

5. Inspect the lower. Usually the lower doesn't need to be messed with. Put a drop of oil on the springs. Depress the buffer retaining pin. Ease the buffer out of the buffer tube. Be sure not to lose the buffer retaining pin or spring. Remove the buffer spring. Inspect the buffer, wipe it off using the rag you used on the upper. Inspect the spring, wipe it off using the same rag. Reinsert the buffer spring and buffer.

6. Back to the upper. Using a flashlight shine it into the chamber. Look for anything out of the ordinary. Again, you're programming yourself on the condition of your rifle, taking a mental snapshot so you can compare mental snapshots over time. I use a .40 caliber bore mop or .40 caliber brush with a patch wrapped around it, moistened with solvent or CLP and swab out the chamber.

7. Clean the bore. Use the method you prefer. Non marring rods, flexible rod, boresnake (check out the cleaning tool thread in the stickies). I prefer the boresnake. Wet the boresnake with CLP before and after the bristles. Pull through bore three times.

8. Using lube of choice, lube the rifle exactly as the owners manual outlines. Reassemble.

9. Safe function check. Manually cycle the action. Chamber empty, muzzle pointed in a safe direction, pull trigger to confirm operation.
Subsequent cleanings are similar, except with the addition of using a BCG tool such as the C.A.T. M4 (see cleaning tool thread sticky). During your post first range trip cleaning, compare your mental snapshots. Do you notice any witness marks on the charging handle, BCG, or upper? Those are the spots where you need to make sure to have a wee bit of lube.

Usually folks ask about the first range trip break in process. Some folks will advocate an elaborate barrel break in process. IMO, use some decent brass case, copper metal jacket ammo and have fun. Just shoot the darn thing.

Cleaners and lube discussions can get heated, just as in any pistol forum. Here's what's in my current kit.

Solvents:
Hoppes No.9 is the best. The only issue is the fume and aroma. My family does not find the scent pleasing. Slip 2000 Carbon Killer is non-toxic and works like a charm.
All-in-One:
Breakfree CLP. It's a time saver. If you want a non-toxic option, Ballistol works. My only issue with Ballistol is that I perceive the odor to be akin to a sweat stank gym bag.
Lube:
I use Mobil1 synthetic. I pour it into a pinpoint oiler. A quart cost me $6 and will last for a lifetime of firearms lubrication. If I need to use a grease, I use TW25B.
Lately I've been using the Slip2000 Carbon Killer + CLP combo.
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:20 PM
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JaPes -- thanks for the GREAT explanation you gave! Fortunately I did most of what you suggested, EXCEPT...I did not do the "visual inspection" part, because -- like you said -- I felt I might not even know what I'm looking for as a new, first-time AR owner. BUT -- the idea that you are just taking a mental "snapshot," for comparison purposes, makes some sense. Thus, next time I field strip and clean, I'll keep those thoughts in mind. Very helpful!

soonerwink --

Funny thing, and I hate to say this, but -- the store he found it at was, ironically, a Tulsa store (not sure which one). Must have been a different one than the ones you checked at.

Perhaps you could call Academy Customer Service, and see if there is one more hiding somewhere...

Steve
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Old 01-25-2016, 10:19 PM
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My old range instructor told me that I should oil any parts that pivot and grease any parts that slide. That advice came 55 years ago, and its still true. I've been using TW25b for the slidey parts and Mobil 1 everywhere else. I'm not very fancy, but my guns work perfectly. Every time.
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Old 01-26-2016, 12:38 AM
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JWH321 --

Yeah, that's the way my dad taught me when I was a kid.

I didn't grease anything on my initial field strip and cleaning/lube of my Sport -- just oil. Next time, I'll grease some "slidey parts."

Another thing -- you are yet another person who has mentioned Mobil 1. I have several kinds of gun-specific oil, and yet so many, I am quickly learning, seem to use Mobil 1. Very interesting. I also have seen mention of "sea foam" for soaking carbon-encrusted parts in. I would have used Hoppe's #9 or another solvent; I wouldn't have thought of the automotive aisle to buy some Sea Foam, for that application...

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Old 01-26-2016, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoss66 View Post
Another thing -- you are yet another person who has mentioned Mobil 1. I have several kinds of gun-specific oil, and yet so many, I am quickly learning, seem to use Mobil 1. Very interesting.
It's because all the miracle non-toxic mythical lubes are basically vegetable oil. Google the Fireclean debacle. Buy a little bottle of non-vegetable based specialty gun oil, and it costs an arm and leg. Then you realize that good old Mobil 1 Synthetic is good to go.

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I also have seen mention of "sea foam" for soaking carbon-encrusted parts in. I would have used Hoppe's #9 or another solvent; I wouldn't have thought of the automotive aisle to buy some Sea Foam, for that application...
Been there, done that. Seafoam works like a charm. Fill up a glass mason jar with it. Drop in any small metal parts, let it soak. Pull out, wipe off, and done. Do not do it indoors. When I did this, I was using my garage workbench with the garage door open.

Another one that works great is Slip 2000 Carbon Killer. It's non toxic. Drop parts in and let them soak. Carbon dissolves off. I've used it on an AR bolt. I've also used it on a stainless revolver cylinder to get rid of those annoying carbon rings.

Then I realized that perfection is the enemy of good enough. The easiest way to keep a standard AR-15 bolt and carrier clean is good old Hoppe's No. 9, patches, and the CAT M-4 tool.











The only thing you need to keep the chamber and lugs clean.



A boresnake is all you need for the barrel.

If you really want to save time, swap out to a Fail Zero BCG & Hammer kit.



No lube required. Run it dry. There's nothing to attract fouling. Carbon wipes off the bolt tail with a dry terry cloth. Any stubborn small specks of carbon, use a lightly wetted hoppes patch.

Now if you really want an easy to clean rifle, make your next one a long stroke or sort stroke gas piston system. My AK-M and Tavor are ridiculously easy to clean. The rifles don't poop where they eat. The piston is easy to clean.
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Old 01-26-2016, 10:27 PM
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Another lube to watch is Frog lube. While it's a fine lube, there are limitations to it. One limitation is that if you run Frog Lube, you have to strip the firearm clean before using it and can not use any other lube in conjunction with it. Another is there seems to be an reaction with Nickle Boron bolts where the lube gums up.

Whatever people want to use is their choice and and I'm not going to judge them on it but one should also know about the potential limitations if they choose to move away from the tried and true lubes that have been around and used successfully for a long time.

Engine oil, while not intended for firearms, is designed to function and last in much more extreme conditions than what most firearms will ever put it through. Not to mention it tends to be cheaper than oils made specifically for firearms. I wouldn't have a problem using it, though if you have a fire control group that needs lubrication, using something that tends to dry and leave a film might be a better choice to minimize dirt and carbon build up. Especially in direct impingement systems like what AR type rifles use.
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Old 01-27-2016, 12:06 AM
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John --

Thanks MUCH for the info, and the pics. Don't have the CAT tool yet, but it's on my list to buy. Same with the boresnake. That CAT tool looks awfully handy.

Thanks also for the info on the Fail Safe BCG/Hammer. Something to think about for the future; I'm about out of cash now after my Sport purchase, plus supplies, accessories, and a little ammo. Future excess money, once I get some, now needs to be directed toward MORE AMMO, for at least a little while!

Yeah, a piston rifle, not "pooping where it eats," would be great. That may be a future rifle at some point...

Thanks!

sgt -- thanks for the info on the Frog Lube.

Please elaborate a bit more on your last paragraph. Yes, I'd think Mobil 1 -- being that it's designed for harsher, higher-heat conditions, and for many, many orders of magnitude more instances of "metal rubbing metal," over time, than our guns get -- would seem to be a good option. But, you said something about "using something that tends to dry and leave a film" might be a better choice, which I can understand, from the perspective of not tending to have dirt and other junk tend to stick to it. Obviously, Mobil 1 would leave a film, but a "wet" film, hence, somewhat "sticky." But, what is there that leaves a "dry" film, that is still a lubricant? Maybe, graphite or something?
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Old 01-27-2016, 12:31 PM
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Default Similar to the CAT

I got this BONE tool in my OTIS AR cleaning kit. It works similar to the CAT M4 tool and then some.


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Old 01-27-2016, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
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John --



Thanks MUCH for the info, and the pics. Don't have the CAT tool yet, but it's on my list to buy. Same with the boresnake. That CAT tool looks awfully handy.



Thanks also for the info on the Fail Safe BCG/Hammer. Something to think about for the future; I'm about out of cash now after my Sport purchase, plus supplies, accessories, and a little ammo. Future excess money, once I get some, now needs to be directed toward MORE AMMO, for at least a little while!



Yeah, a piston rifle, not "pooping where it eats," would be great. That may be a future rifle at some point...



Thanks!



sgt -- thanks for the info on the Frog Lube.



Please elaborate a bit more on your last paragraph. Yes, I'd think Mobil 1 -- being that it's designed for harsher, higher-heat conditions, and for many, many orders of magnitude more instances of "metal rubbing metal," over time, than our guns get -- would seem to be a good option. But, you said something about "using something that tends to dry and leave a film" might be a better choice, which I can understand, from the perspective of not tending to have dirt and other junk tend to stick to it. Obviously, Mobil 1 would leave a film, but a "wet" film, hence, somewhat "sticky." But, what is there that leaves a "dry" film, that is still a lubricant? Maybe, graphite or something?

For the trigger group, oil that dries would be something like Remoil. It's a thin oil with teflon in it. The oil dries and leaves a teflon film behind. There are other oils out there like that but Remoil is what I use.

I suppose graphite would work to but you would want it suspended in something so it would leach into areas you can't get too. Perhaps car lock lube with graphite would work.
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:39 PM
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I got this BONE tool in my OTIS AR cleaning kit. It works similar to the CAT M4 tool and then some.





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulRLHGfsSMM

This is what I use as well.
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Old 01-27-2016, 05:37 PM
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Mark S. -- thanks for the info on the B.O.N.E. tool; based on that advice, I added an Otis AR kit to my "list to buy."

sgt -- didn't specifically know/observe that about Rem Oil ("drying" but leaving a Teflon film), though I have it and have used it in the past. Thanks!

Steve
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Old 01-27-2016, 07:07 PM
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This one works well, too. Gets into a lot of places and is priced right.



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Old 01-27-2016, 09:31 PM
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Thanks jkasch!

Another very useful-looking tool. Adding that to the list, as well! You guys know all the tricks -- I appreciate you sharing them with me.

Now, I just need to start building up some carbon deposits in my gun -- i.e. put some rounds downrange!

Thanks!

Steve

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This one works well, too. Gets into a lot of places and is priced right.

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