Hey guys, just got picked up my Sport II and was wondering what oil you recommend? This is my first AR and heard to always run them "wet". I have been watching Hickok on YouTube and he seems to love Ballistol since it works well and is a cleaner and a lube. Does RemOil do the same?

Also, since Ballistol cleans and lubes, can I use this for all of my cleaning and lubing needs or would it be better to buy a specific cleaner/lube.

Thanks in advance for all the replies! I am excited to throw some lead down range! Just got 180 Winchester White Box!

I've been using Rem-oil for well over 30 years. It's my "go to" lube and cleaner for most firearm applications, and quite a few non-firearm applications.
It doesn't gum up, it's thin but not too runny, it's a great bore cleaner.... I've never had any problems.

Jim

I really like Ballistol and it is my go-to cleaner/lube for all firearms. I have a stock of Mpro-7 cleaner which is good but probably won't replace once I use up.

Rem oil is a dry-type lube meaning that it more or less evaporates. Rem oil is better for fire control groups and tight places that don't get cleaned often because they don't come into direct contact with burning powder and direct residue.

I generally agree with the "wet" comment but that applies to the inside of the bolt carrier and the bolt. Between the two, Ballistol would be my choice for cleaning and lubricating the bolt carrier group but don't overdo it. The firing pin channel should not have standing oil in it and just the oil you transfer from your fingers to the pin should be sufficient. The firing pin should be completely free to bounce fore and aft without the hydraulic resistance that excess oil in the tube would cause.

Since this is your first AR, I'll mention the three silver-colored rings on the bolt. After cleaning, I use a high quality medium-weight grease on these. After staggering the spaces, just push it in around them. The spaces should also be staggered at 12, 4 and 8 o'clock or at 12, 6, and 12 o'clock. The rings/piston cylinder is a main friction point and oil readily blows right out of the bolt carrier interior during the first few shots.

Another reason to use a bit of oil on surfaces is to help prevent or lessen carbon buildup. Carbon is going to happen but if the surfaces are coated, the buildup isn't as bad and cleans off easier.

Get one of these:
During cleaning, get surfaces wet with Ballistol or CLP and follow the included instructions on careful scraping of bolt tail, waist, lugs and firing pin. Don't use a lot of muscle, the surfaces conform exactly and scrapes without effort. The interior cylinder doesn't usually need anything but a wipeout if you use grease on the rings as mentioned previously. Be careful to not scratch the interior of the cylinder.

Good luck with your AR. After doing it a few times, you'll be able to clean the bolt carrier group, barrel and chamber in under 20 min.

Is there a good video or pic's of the staggering you describe in paragraph 3? Maybe this is described in the cleaning section of the manual? I have had a chance to read it though in detail yet.

For cleaning I use Hoppe's #9. The stuff has been around so long for a reason. For lube, a 50/50 mix of synthetic ATF and synthetic Mobil 1 gear oil on all my AR's moving parts. Cheap and just plain works. I do use Remoil but really just for rust protection on the outer parts.

Here is a quick page that shows it. https://www.ar15.com/mobile/topic.ht...f=385&t=269667
In the 2nd picture, the rings are staggered just a few degrees apart (1, 2, 3 o'clock). You can use a tool to slide them around to 12,4,8 o'clock). Most people avoid having them line completely up because it creates a channel that allows gas to go where it's not intended. I will say that I've disassembled my bolt carrier group (BCG) before and have found that teh rings are aligned and the firearm functioned fine. Since I started using grease a few years ago, the rings stay staggered more often than not and the bolt moves smoother in the carrier cylinder.

I use Breakfree CLP to clean, Mobil 1 to lube.

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Still carrying my S&W 642

I just use CLP

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Ballistol and Hoppes 9 to clean. Rem oil a drop at a time on recommended places.

I also use Ballistol to clean and protect wood, on my car tires, on my holsters, on the rubber seals of my cars, on my tools, on my lawn mower seats and hoses.

Which reminds me I have to order some more this week.

I use G96 for everything and its great, I do however still use a little Hoppes bore cleaner..

Agree, G96 is great stuff. (My former agency's range officers introduced me to it about 15 years ago.)

Pretty much use it for general cleaning and lubrication on all my firearms but supplement it with a bit of Hoppe's solvent as needed...and a dedicated lubricant on those specific parts that may require a bit of extra in that regard.

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642-1, M&P15 TS

I've always found Rem Oil to be too light. We used it for sewing machines and fishing gear with good results, but it dries out or doesn't hold on firearms. Yes, it is good for mid-term storage because there isn't as much to build up.

I generally use Mpro 7 oil or a good CLP and a bit of lithium grease where needed these days, but I have all of the above mentioned in my cleaning case. Depends on when I expect to take that particular gun out again.

My Sig folks have advised against Rem Oil when the gun has any filled engraving, as they think it (with the teflon ingredient) causes the fill / paint to break loose. May just be over-thinking it, but as I don't have any "fancy" guns, it has not been an issue.

I have been using Clenzoil on all my firearms ever since I started using it on Muzzleloaders, I find it works great.

In addition to or alternatives to the "Real Avid" tool recommended by tcon are the following Bolt / BCG tools which may be of interest:




(FYI: Amazon listings posted simply for convenience. Prices may or may not be better on other vendor sites. The BONE tool is also available as part of the Otis MSR / AR Cleaning System.)

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642-1, M&P15 TS

A good CLP for cleaning and then grease for the bolt carrier group.

Rem oil is what I use for very long term storage,3 years or more.I havnt heard anyone using Balistol for long term storage yet.

Awesome, thanks for all the comments. I just took the rifle out and shot about 300 rounds through it out the box. I just got back and reading I should of cleaned it and to "break in" the barrel.. oops.. Do you guys think I messed anything up shooting it straight out the box? It had a fair amount of factory lube present..

There will be a ton of opinion in this thread...

RemOil is fine for wiping down the outside of a firearm, parts that don't require much protection from friction or operating in extreme low temps. Otherwise it's about useless IMO. For lubrication I use Wilson Combat Universal in summer temps and Wilson Combat Oil for Winter.

I've tried a ton of products and found that most anything will get the job done, but I feel that Ballistol is better than most at cleaning, lubrication, and general use. I've used it to clean remotes, dress shoes, tools, etc. and it's been fantastic. Other than the smell that is, lol.

I do not think you did the gun any harm but you have to remember that the factory grease is more of a preservative than a lube for shooting. It is made to keep the gun from rusting in storage not protect the parts from wear.

I would clean the gun immediately because the factory lube will not work to protect the gun from carbon buildup and if you leave it on there too long it will take some effort to remove it. Tons of good videos online about AR15 cleaning. Be warned there are about as many "best way to clean an AR15" opinions as there are ARs.

On thing I will say is that they like to be run wet. Often when I see stoppages on the range they are mag or lube related. Too many people run them too dry IMHO.

You are fine. You could run these guns dry if you wanted to. Clean it and lube it and you'll be fine for the next 300 rounds. Honeslty I impressed with the 300 rounds, fine work. You are well on your way to spending lots and lots of money on this habit, like the rest of us.

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Still carrying my S&W 642

Don't use it for massages. The smell stays in the bedroom for months.

Okay, that's officially TMI! One more outburst like that and I'll have to un-friend you!

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642-1, M&P15 TS

It's been my experience that RemOil is too light. Ballistol is good stuff. Let it dwell on the parts to be cleaned, and it does the trick. For those guys who live in humid areas or store firearms for a while in the safe, understand that Ballistol is hygroscopic. If you're going to store your gun, wipe it down with some good oil.

As far as good oil, I've tried cheap oil to expensive oils that make mythic claims. I've used greases too. There are two that just work:

1. Good old Breakfree CLP.

2. Mobil1 Synthetic motor oil. Used exclusively for firearms, one quart will last you years and it only costs $6.50.

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-John

Out of curiosity, what weight are you using for your firearms, John?


I haven't yet used grease on either the rails / bearing surfaces of the BCG or bolt but Super Lube synthetic grease, (which I use around the house and property), sounds about perfect for the application with a range of -45* to +450* F.

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642-1, M&P15 TS

The way I look at it, Remoil is fir the things you want to stay dry and not attract dirt and carbon and wet lubes are for everything else. Remoil leaves a lubricating film but isn't the best for where you want it to stay wet or prevent corrosion.


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Ballistol to clean

Grizzly Grease to lube

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Thank You
Wayne