IMO there are 2 types of gun lube - lube with Teflon and lube without it. Teflon can gum up the action of a firearm over time and it can be hard to remove once it hardens if you have used a lot of it like some people do. Things like Remoil have it. Break Free CLP used to have it but not any more. I don't use any Teflon based lube inside of any firearm action. I do lube the inside of bores that will be sitting a long time without being fired a lot with a Teflon based lube. It works very well as a preservative. But I've seen the stuff build up where I had to take a screwdriver to scrape off the parts of my bicycle because I had used a Teflon based lube on it. It got to where my gears wouldn't switch because the lube was built up so deep it was blocking the chain from moving. It took an hour to clean the rear sprockets on that bike. It also picked up dirt etc. and held it like it was concrete. It will do the same thing with gunpowder.

So my advice is to use something that is pure oil in a chamber. You can of course use a cleaning solution (I use Hoppes #9) but be sure to dry that off before applying lube.

I use an old product that my gunsmith swears by. It's called Nyoil and it claims to be "the most highly refined oil ever produced". I don't know about that but it is pure oil. It has none of the additives or unrefined stuff that becomes gunk over time. It's nearly as good as whale oil but of course that's not something I would ever buy. I'd like to see whales remain part of the world. It's a little hard to find but it is a great lube IMO. Actually Nyoil contained whale oil at one time but not anymore. It was developed for use by whaling boats actually. It works in extreme conditions and dries without leaving any residue. That's exactly what a person wants from a lube IMO.

One more point. Whatever you do stay away from WD-40 as a gun lube. It is not really a lube at all. WD stands for "water displacement". It was never intended to be used as an oil. It can work great for a while but it creates far more problems than it fixes and I've seen people use a can of it a day on a gun I cringed when I saw their shirt after they shot a full auto AK that was drenched in WD-40. Their shirt was drenched in it too after they were done shooting. It is NOT a good lube by any means.

TAI Lubricants

I have always used RemOil to clean my guns. All I ever do is spray the part I am cleaning, wipe and/or brush (plastic bristles) stubborn spots. This has seemed to work just fine in my pistols/hunting rifle/shotgun. Being as I am new to the AR world, can I apply the same application to my AR and expect the same results, or does an AR require actual cleaning and then lubing?

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S&W M&P 15 Sport II

If you are looking at a one fluid does it all, CLP is what you want in an AR. RemOil is a fine product but the bolt needs to stay wet lubed and RemOil dries to a dry lube. Fine for the trigger group but not for the bolt.

George Fennell, from Weapon Shield, tests his products against Slip2000, Lucas Oil and others. He's got some great educational videos, reviews and comparisons.


I have no affiliation, just a very happy customer!

I clean the bores of my AR and my pistols with KG1 carbon remover, and then use eezox to clean and lube all other steel surfaces, including the bolt carrier group of my AR. Eezox is a dry-film lube that also works great to prevent rust, and it doesn't run. It is smelly and i make sure to wear nitrile gloves when I use it.

Sometimes before shooting my AR I pull the bcg and put a light coat of slip 2000 on it, but I just as often don't. This works fine for me and nothing rusts, including my LC9S pocket gun. I really like eezox for pistols and safe queens.