took my Sport ll to the range and put 1 magazine through it. no malfunctions and it is very accurate at the distances I will use it for [<50 yards]. will wait to make optics decision. this is strictly home defense weapon.

what type of lube should I use and does it operate better with lotsa lube or less lube? appreciate any tips regarding maintenance.

I lightly lube with Rem Oil or Break Free.
Others have preferences beyond this especially with regard to running wet or dry.
Jim

Google AR15 lube points.

I prefer Break Free CLP and run my guns wet at the range, but use less lube on hunting rifles that may only have a few shots between cleanings. I find that when the guns are run wet it is easier to wipe the carbon out of the system.

You'll find that there are many favorites among the members and most all of them work well...from the basic to the exotic.

Tried and true products like Break Free CLP are reasonably priced and add the benefits of cleaning and protecting to the lubrication provided.

There are products that are or may be better at each individual function but don't overthink it or your head will explode. The M&P15 seems to function just fine with a modicum of care.

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642-1, M&P15 TS

Opinions on lube type and amount of lube can cause heated debates. My best advice is to pick a single method that works for you and stick with it.

My opinion, so take it for what it's worth...

I've used everything from liquid oils of every type of weight to different types of greases, from light coatings to heavy coatings. Cleaning is cleaning. Regardless of the type or amount of lube.

• Breakfree CLP
• Mobil 1 Synthetic Motor Oil (5w30 because that's what I have in the garage)

Breakfree CLP is a known quantity. It does the job of both cleaning and lubing. It comes in convenient aerosol cans. Stuff just works. When compared to boutique firearms lubes that are purchased by the ounce, a quart of Mobil 1 Synthetic is dirt cheap and will last a long time.

The direct impingement gas system poops where it eats, and there is no getting around it. Run lightly lubed, and the carbon will cook onto the BCG and foul the upper. Run wet, and the lube can cook. Excess lube slings around the upper and into the lower catching fouling. Either way, you're cleaning.

From 1st hand experience, the only way to overcome a portion of the "poops where it eats" issue is to install a Nickel Boron Bolt Carrier Group. I've tried three different NiBx coated BCG's. The only one that lived up to it's marketing claims is the Fail Zero Exo.



I ran my AR dry, no lube. Carbon fouling wiped off with a terry cloth rag. No lube to sling around meant I could just wipe out the upper and blow out the lower.

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-John

Word of warning to the newbies.

When we say run wet, we mean bolt/bolt carrier. When a round is fired from a chamber with excessive lube, you set the conditions for the increased probability of a catastrophic failure. Before going to the range, I will always swab out the chamber of my rifle with a dry patch to remove excess lube.

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-John

I prefer grease on my AR15s but then again I like grease on most of my guns anywhere there is metal on metal contact.

I like this stuff. It is super cheap and runs great. $4 for a 14oz tube.



I like CLP to clean and protect but use grease on wear parts.

Super Lube makes an excellent, reasonably priced grease as well but not as inexpensive as the Super Tech. (I've used their synthetic lubes and grease for many years.)

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642-1, M&P15 TS

Really there are a ton of automotive products that are excellent for use as gun lube. I mean look at companies like Lucas Oil who realized that they could basically sell the same lubricants packaged in smaller tubes labeled gun oil for 3X the price of their other products.

At age 6 my grandfather started showing me how to shoot, hunt, firearm safety, and how to clean a firearm. He always used a mixture of kerosene and diesel to clean the bad stuff and 3 IN 1 oil to lube them.
I still use 3 IN 1 every now again, but have my own lube mixture; 5W30 M1-90% with Mercon V-10%.
Just recently someone told me about GRIZZLY GREASE. I cleaned and lubed my AR with it and will see how it works this weekend. It has a very nice minty smell to it.
Grizzly Grease Non-Toxic CLP 4 FL OZ. - Grizzly Gun Care

we always used diesel fuel mixed with a little gasoline to clean parts [for tractor, implements, etc] when I was on the ranch. I have used 3 in 1 oil since childhood but figured there are some better lube products out there now.

Breakfree CLP seems to be a product that everyone recommends. Will have to get some. I appreciate the responses and am looking forward to another trip to the range so I will have a good reason to try out the Breakfree CLP. Again, many thanks.

How old were you when your grandfather was 6?

But to add to the thread; I've used Breakfree CLP for a few years which has worked but dries out and needs a lot of rewetting. I've switched to Slip 2000 EWL on my handguns with good results (in particular--not drying out) and plan to switch my AR soon.

I still use Mobil 1, works great for me. I also lube "moderately", not super wet.

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Still carrying my S&W 642

For my AR's I use a mixture of Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w-90 gear oil and synthetic ATF. Yes, I said gear oil and just so you know a 75w-90 gear oil is about the same thickness as 10w-30 motor oil. The big difference between the two is that gear oil contains more friction modifiers (ZDDP, the really slick stuff) than any off the shelf motor oil. Probably makes little or no difference but it works well.

I run mine wet. No not dripping wet but just a good coat of lube on all the friction points and done right it doesn't run all over the place and will stay wet for a long, long time. For the barrel I run a patch with RemOil down it and call it a day.

Ballistol and Slip2000 have always worked great for me. Lots of good options available.

Being he was just 6 years old, what I stated in my reply never happened. SMH!

Anyone use Ballistol?

I have used Breakfree CLP, Weapons Shield, Ballistol, and Frog Lube. They all work pretty well.

I use it to clean ... I use Grizzly Grease for my lube

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Thank You
Wayne

From myself back to my grandfather, the family has always used Hoppe's #9 for cleaning, and their lubricating oils for lube. I use it on my pistols, hunting rifles, and AR's. Never a problem.

I love Ballistol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

About nine years ago I began using Slip2000 lubricants on my service pistol and patrol rifle and never looked back. To date with these I have had no problems related to lubrication be it the heat of summer or cold of winter.

I'm old school and believe that you use a cleaner to clean and a lubricant to lube. Others may know more though. Find out what works for you and have at it.

I don't believe that you need a great deal of lubricant, but how much you need will depend on your firing schedule, cleaning regimen, operating conditions (i.e., dust, sand, etc.). I run my carbine "wet" on the bolt & bolt carrier, and leave little, if any, lube in the barrel.

As to why I don't use petroleum based cleaners/lubes, take a look at the label on the container. Many manufacturers caution that use of these may result in cancer. In law enforcement we call that a "clue".

Hope this helps & good luck.

Joe

"I love the smell of Ballistol in the morning..."



(Personally, I've not yet tried the stuff but I'm sure that day will come eventually. Does it come with a clothespin? )

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642-1, M&P15 TS

Lubri-Kit.com - Lubricate and protect your guns.

Appears to be promising. Discovered it when reading about TRIBOLOGY. [look it up...]

I just recently bought some Grizzly Grease. How long have you been using it? What's your overall opinion about it? Thanks.

Making your own gun lube.
https://youtu.be/IPPkRanppL4

First, when someone is selling me something I always consider their "mission". This said, the NRA has a interesting article about CLP lubricants. Basically very negative and their argument leans towards common sense. Then, of course they sell Mil-Comm lubricants under the NRA branding.
I suggest everyone read NRA's assessment of CLP.
Personally I've used Mil-COMM products for the past few years and like how they lubricate without being "sloppy".
Pricey, however.
Mil-COMM's grease looks like hand lotion rather than ordinary grease. (And you wipe off their lubes after applying them)

One poster opined, basically there's a lot of good lubricants out there. I think this is true and likely most of the synthetics are good for most casual shooters. The choice is personal.
Stay safe.
Poli Viejo

I have been using it about 6 months ... great stuff ... a jar will last a long time. I like running my AR wet so use plenty ... I clean my gun after every use

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Thank You
Wayne

My can of Breakfree CLP is close to 20 years old and keeps going strong. I've used Hoppes #9 even longer for initial cleaning have probably spilled more than I've used. So I continue to buy it and now put it in drip bottles like the oil. So no experience with the fancy new lubes.
Yes... I don't shoot as much as I'd like and thus clean less then I'd like.

I run ~600 rounds/month through my AR between range sessions and 3 Gun matches.

When I remember to lube, which isn't often, I use whatever happens to be closest at hand. That could be CLP, it could be <insert gun oil brand here> or it might be a light coat of grease....it really makes absolutely no difference at all.

The only exception I've found to that rule is FrogLube. If you use FrogLube, you have to commit to it (I wouldn't) or else stuff gets super gummy.

Let me give you a heads up about a product called Clenzoil , my buddy who has a gun shop gave me an 8 oz, bottle to try , said it was the best stuff ever, cleans, lubes, protects , metal , wood and leather , can be used for lock , stock and barrel....sounds good right ?
There's just one problem...it has a funky, stink to it....I mean the smell is offensive. And I think Hoppe's #9 smells wonderful !
I take the bottle down every so often to try and "learn" to love the smell, but it's not working. The stuff may be great but it REEKS !
I smell every product before I buy it now. Thankfully this bottle was free .
Actually a good lube is automatic transmission fluid. To make a lighter general purpose lube mix equal parts ATF and odorless hurricane lamp oil , aka kerosene lamp , the lamp oil is just highly refined kerosene .
You can use fuel grade K-1 kerosene but the lamp oil kerosene has very little smell to it. A quart of ATF ($4.47) and a quart of lamp oil ($6.95 for the good smelling stuff) from Walmart came to $11.42 and made 2 quarts of gun oil.
Gary

I used dedicated firearms cleaners, like Hoppes #9 since some gun parts may be sensitive to anything else. For lube, automotive products are cheaper and designed to take more heat and abuse than most anything in the gun lube market will ever see.

Remoil is used where I want a dry, lubricating film where you don't want carbon and dirt to build up, like in trigger groups.

LSA is great stuff ,invented during the RVN era to keep full auto weapons running under bad conditions and I have never had it fail me.even in sand and saltwater dunked M 60 machine guns. Like others have said I use bore cleaners to clean bores. A little spray brake cleaner to blow out hard to clean areas and lube with LSA when dry.

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Hue 68 noli me tangere

Anyone else use Molydenum Disulfide in Turpentine? It's a great dry lube for moving parts. I use it on my pistol's sliding parts, but have yet to use it on the M&P 15 Sport. Any thoughts?

Very few questions can cause such diverse answers! :-)

I like Weapon Shield products, Mil-Comm, and a new product from a guy on the Sig Forum, Hurley's Gold which is oil/grease combined.

My experience is a little will go a long way with AR-15 lube. YMMV.

I have started using grease on the outer sliding contact points of the BCG. I used to use Slip2000 but the stuff leaks out of the gun when it sits butt down in the safe. I figure, if I can see it on the outside, it isn't on the inside where it needs to be. I still use the Slip 2000 on the internals of the BCG

Mobile 1 synthetic (10w-30) on my rifle and Froglube on my pistols.

Up until now I've always used Balistol for most things, and GunButter grease, where I need grease. Both very good products. Recently I've been using ALG Go-Juice developed by Mr Geissele, very reasonably priced and has been performing awesomely so far...so probably making that my go-to lube now. Will never give up using Balistol as a cleaner though, weirdly love the way that stuff smells, wife HATES it.

ALG Go-Juice Lubricant (4 oz.)

I clean with Hoppes #9 and Breakfree Powder Blast. I also have Rem-Oil and CLP for lubing. However, I have switched over to using a tube of grease I got from Walmart. I use Lucas Oil Red N' Tacky, I think is the name. It's a high temp grease. My Sport II seemed to work just fine with it. I also lubed my Mossberg 500 with it. I switched to grease after watching this video.


Whatever you clean with, I also recommend getting a Bore Snake if you don't already have one. I absolutely hate dealing with stupid patches.

I think I read most of this thread,,, (I might have missed it!! )

BUT,,, I did not see my favorite cleaner mentioned!!

Aerosol Disc Brake Cleaner!!

That stuff must be useful somewhere in an AR,,, it sure works miracles on my tractors.

Any time I buy a new firearm I use some kind of non-chlorinated brake cleaner, along with HOPPE'S solvent, to clean the firearm. It removes all residue and/or packing oil/lube, dries quickly, and leaves no residue.

Ballistol works good for me.

I really appreciate the responses....the videos are especially helpful also. I tried ballistol once and my wife didn't like the smell, nor did I and our pup wasn't too fond of it, so I gave it away. Having been raised around Hoppes#9 there's always some in my cleaning kit, but it's something I cannot use in the house [my wife was not raised around it].

One little tip I will share....use disposable latex gloves when cleaning your guns. all of these cleaning and lubricating agents are loaded with chemicals. As a farmer who has handled herbicides for many years, wearing disposable gloves is a natural. Besides, it will keep your hands clean.

Again, your input is much appreciated

As I mentioned in another thread I use the 10oz. can of compressed gas (used to clean keyboards). Be careful you don't blow dirt into the mechanics.

Where glasses to protect the eyes.

I use Amsoil (their motor oil) at the range and it works great; Slip 2000 EWL is all I use otherwise, all of the Slip 2000 cleaning products have worked great for me and I would recommend them to anyone.

Slip 2000 sure has GREAT credentials,,,
I can not seem to find Slip 2000 Gun Oil,, only the EWL,,,

I would love to know if the Slip 2000 Gun Oil is cheaper than the EWL,,,
no way I need to go over 400 rounds between cleaning,,,

Switch between CLP, grease, and M-Pro gun oil.

Run mine moderately wet, with excess wiped prior to a range trip.

Brownells and Midway have the Gun Oil, it is a few dollars cheaper than the EWL for a 4oz bottle, I don't know if they make Gun Oil in the 16 oz bottle but I know you get a way better deal on the 16oz bottles of EWL and 725 Cleaner. I don't think I've seen any Slip 2000 products locally.

This is a very educational video on gun lube. Maybe some will follow this guys techniques, or, just use some of his ideas. IMO, I think what he says makes sense. Enjoy!
"Gun" Lube, is stupid. - YouTube