Went to the range to shoot my new PC Shield (which I really like). Met a guy with an M&P 15 (,223). He was unhappy with his normally accurate AR. Put a home made fuel sediment trap suppressor (with stainless cups that had 1/4" holes in them) on and said his rounds were all over the place. Primarily very low . Also noticed the rounds in the top of the magazine were really getting dirty. Looked to me like some sort of blowback. The suppressor really looked well made to me.Going shooting with him this weekend. Looking for suggestions. I don't know much about them.

When you start hanging things from the barrel you never know what the results will be. I have one suppressor used it on a Marvel and later on a high standard with a Volquartsen barrel in both cases there was no lose of accuracy.

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Len

I think you might find that there is a world of difference between a high quality suppressor and a home made fuel sediment trap suppressor (with stainless cups that had 1/4" holes in them with respect to the effect on accuracy, velocity, etc. I'm not very interested in suppressed rifles, although now that they're legal for hunting it's an interesting concept, but I am fond of suppressors on handguns, especially .22 lr caliber automatic pistols that become very quiet, but remain accurate as long as you can see the sights.

As a matter of fact, now that I think about it, Ruger's 10-22s with built in suppressors are pretty doggone accurate, too. I fired one years ago and it was excellent. But we're talking top of the line suppressors, not home made anything.

Some times suppressors will result in a different point of impact when installed on the gun. Most quality commercial suppressors have minimal or no affect on POI.

When you say home made, did he jump through the BATF requirements to register his suppressor? If he did not, he is looking at a felony charge, $100,000 fine, and 10 years in jail if caught with an unregistered suppressor. I would find out if his suppressor is legal before shooting with him in the future.

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A Country Boy Can Survive

What he said.

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USS Brewton FF1086
SWCA#3597

It's not uncommon for a point of impact shift (in your case shooting low) going from non suppressed to suppressed. But once zeroed again it should be just as "accurate" repeatable.

That said, it only takes a slight out of alignment to create some pretty whacky repeatability issues. I know a guy who has a Class 7 and makes his own cans. When he first began he struggled with some very minor alignment issues that you would't think would create such problems but they did. So using some type of home made thing-a-ma-bob from a sentiment trap is likely to be problematic.

There's some high pressures involved... I'd probably be standing behind the shooter rather than to the side.

Ditto on the NFA issues. Good luck.

It is very common for a suppressor to increase the amount of "gunk" getting into the action of a gas impingement system. Quite often after firing a magazine full, especially in full auto, the action accumulates a black liquid. This is power residue mixed with condensation. This doesn't happen with the gas piston system. Usually, a quality made (commercial) suppressor will increase accuracy in the AR platform. Follow up shots are a lot quicker too, due to decreased recoil. It goes without saying that suppressed full auto is a lot more controllable too!

My .300 Blackout SBR with AAC can. Deadly accurate and verwy verwy quiet, heh heh heh heh.........

Wish I could help but my suppressor has been stuck in jail since early April. Damn BATF.

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Still carrying my S&W 642

Said he had to pay $200 for a stamp permit????

As soon as I heard "home made" that says it all. They have to have precise alignment and concentric.

A friend of mine got one for his AK. He couldn't just thread it on. He needed an adapter otherwise I wouldn't shoot straight and may strike the baffles inside

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

I shoot everything suppressed, and have spent the money to do so on a trust, stamps and most importantly suppressors. Doing it the right way and buying a professionally machined product is the only way to go. As someone mentioned, everything has to be precisely machined to maintain or even improve accuracy. Those out there that think taking a Maglite case and stuffing it with freeze plugs have no clue what they are doing, even if they think they do. Not only do they not save you money in the end, they are flat out dangerous, especially if you can't control your shots. I shoot a YHM titanium on my 223 and a SiCo Saker on all other rifle calibers. Although the best is the .22 can on the 15-22. If you are going to do it, do it right. If not, rent one from a club every now and then and have fun, don't go cheap, it doesn't save.

He got it straightened out. Baffle strike! Now its about the same sound as a .22. Pretty good I thought.

You do realized The ATF monitors gun forums right? You said he told you he paid the $200.00 stamp, I am assuming he did it on a Form 1 versus Form 4? If so it should have a serial number (well they will have a SN, but he would have had to have his engraved) and for everyone's sake I'd suggest carrying a copy of the paperwork where ever I went with that thing if it is in fact legal.

In the case of the absence of any the above I wouldnt be within sight of him when he is playing with it.

And of course on the question of accuracy. Baffle strike DUH!! It takes a little bit to get that **** in alignment.