Got my Magpul edition MOE from my ffl 3 weeks ago.

847 otd (w ffl fee) leo pricing from Buds.

It checked every box for me. 4150 cmv midlength gas, aftermarket furniture (or oem style).

Ran roughly 90 rounds of xm193. It did choke on tula (cases sticking in chamber) not too concerned.

However After the first 40 rounds or so the trigger wouldn't reset without me pushing it from behind.

I took it home cleaned it and disassembled trigger, verified correct install ,took emery cloth to contact surfaces and greased everything. It seems good after two mag dumps all functions are normal.

All in all satisfied so far. I'm planning on a magpul sling and Primary arms prism scope. I'll update around a thousand rounds.

Interesting about your trigger.

Yes, please update. I look forward to it.

I chalked it up to no grease and maybe a slight bur on the contacts. Got a little carbon in there maybe.

I'd say maybe packing grease or a bur, but no way in that short time carbon built up enough to make the trigger not return. Carbon hardly ever even gets down into the lower with any measurable amounts, especially to make a trigger stick. Heck, even with my supressor on and firing a few hundred rounds I don't see much carbon in the trigger area.

Anyway, good luck with the MOE, it is a very nicely optioned rifle.

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Still carrying my S&W 642

Same model I have (FDE). Solid choice. Mines been perfect. The trigger sucked, but don't most mil-specs. Changed mine out with the ALG ACT trigger pack - much MUCH better; maybe you should do the same.

Cases sticking? Be sure to give the chamber a little extra cleaning attention. Steel cases allow more carbon in than more tightly sealing brass.

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Registration? NEVER!

If the Tula stuck in the chamber, examine the extractor the next time you do a thorough cleaning. There is always the potential for chipping when that happens with steel cases.

Thanks on the replies. I put another 120 rds wwb 55gr 5.56 through yesterday zero issues.

Shot prone at 100 paces in the desert. and offhand at 30 5 shot groups with Irons were decent.

I'm still using a rough 10/50 yd zero with jerkingthetrigger.com's printable target.

So far I'm impressed. again chalked the initial trigger issues to either a bur or some grit but its gtg now. Trigger as is, is a little creepy but better than my duty colt. I have an alg with the 5.5 spring in my 11.5 pistol build. I may do a la rue or the rise armament duty trigger in this we'll see. Immediate plans are to get it to a regular range and confirm 50 zero and see what she'll do at 100.
Sling (magpul vs 1) and a streamlight . I've got an astigmatism looking at the primaryarms 2.5 or 3x prism scopes. I can't see much past 100yds with this gun.

Overall real happy with it.

I ran 180 rd through my rifle yesterday, mostly deliberate 5 shot groups. Even at that relatively slow pace, the MOE handguards got fairly warm (but not uncomfortably so), even with the heat shield.

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Registration? NEVER!

update. I worked some ot and was looking at the rockriver 2 stage along with a primary arms 3x prism and a magpul sling for the rifle. I found a trigger (unused) from a build last year del-ton lpk. I put it in and it has zero take up and breaks clean. I'm gonna run some more ammo through and if all goe
s well probably call it good. Zero cost to me.

The moe trigger was making a creaking sound and had a ton of take up. fyi.

I have the mid moe, shoots like crazy

When you say "take up" are you talking about slack or creep?

There are a few terms for triggers and how they work. They are:

• Slack
• Creep
• Break or Sear Break
• Over-travel

Each is unique. So, here's a little primer so we're all on the same page.

Slack
This is the free movement of a trigger before it's against the sear. This is most often found on pistols. The typical AR with a GI trigger usually doesn't have any slack.

Creep
This is the movement of the sear before it lets the hammer go. When you press the hammer back it comes to a stop just before the sear releases the hammer. Any movement from this point until the hammer is released is creep. The typical GI trigger on an AR has a lot of creep.

Break
This is the moment when the sear releases the hammer. Most guns have a clean break. Some, like the Glock, have a kind of spongy feel to the break. ARs generally have a very clean break. This is sometimes difficult to discern on a GI trigger because they have so much creep.

Over-travel
This is the trigger continuing to move after the break. Too much over-travel will cause the shooter to pull the gun off line. The M&P pistol has a lot of over-travel and this is the main cause of accuracy errors in that gun. Over-travel in the M&P15 is not consistent and must be evaluated for every gun.


ARs with a GI trigger usually have no slack when cocked, tons of creep, a decent break and very little over-travel. Almost all of the aftermarket triggers improve on all these points.

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Freedom isn't free.

Interesting. I've never experienced a mil-spec trigger in A1s, A2s, M4s, civilian ARs that didn't have a discernible amount of "slack", slop, pre-travel. Different amounts of course. But when not firing in a range, mostly studied, slow-fire environment, it's of little consequence imo. Funny thing, the best mil-spec trigger I have experienced, by far, is the one I removed from my 15-22. It's my #1 backup out of about 10 or so sitting in a drawer. A small bit of pre-travel but all else is super, to include an untouched 4-4.2 lb pull. With that said, my Colt trigger assemblies are noticeably the worst.

Been shooting military triggers for a long time and have gotten so used to them that I unconsciously adjust to them and really don’t use a very light trigger even on my hunting rifles. I understand why people like the high dollar triggers but have only had a couple guns over the years that were so bad I was forced to replace the triggers on them.

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Hue 68 noli me tangere

I wonder if we're talking about the same thing when talking about slack. I'm curious because the design of the GI trigger doesn't allow for any slack. I'll use this picture to explain:


The red arrow is pointing to the sear.

When the rifle is cocked, the pressure from the hammer prevents the trigger from moving. This is so because the trigger and sear are made from one piece of material. Therefore, every bit of trigger movement, prior to the break, is creep.

As you can see in this picture, there is a lot of sear engagement. This is done on purpose for safety. This type of trigger is extremely safe and reliable.

If the rifle is not cocked, the trigger will move a little. This has nothing to do with the action of the trigger because at no time would the gun fire in this condition.

So, if you have a GI trigger and the gun is cocked and the trigger has any slack or wiggle at all, your trigger is damaged and should be looked at by a quality gunsmith or just replaced.

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Freedom isn't free.

So 500 round update

Reading your post what the oem trigger had creep
and then the failure to reset of course. A little sand paper and grease and it was resetting on it's own. The del ton trigger hasn't had any issues. 100 yards prone , sitting, kneeling standing I'm making my hits on a man size silouette.

Was running wwb, 5.56 55gr had a couple failure to lock back. Attributing to under powered loads. Will try tula and more wwb again tomorrow.

I added a primary arms 2.5x prism, a magpul ms1 sling with qd and mount, a streamlight 600 lumen polytac in a cantilever mount.

really liking this rifle. personally I'd take it over my issued colt with an extremely dim 4x acog. little lighter the magpul furniture beats the hell out out of the cheesegrater quad rails.

picked up an m+p 2.0 4in. as well breaking that in on desert as well tomorrow.

Good to hear the update. Stock mil-spec trigger groups can vary greatly. Some are horrible, some OK. I usually replace them. Keep shooting it, it's a good carbine.

You must be old when you see Moe and think the thread is going to be about Moe Howard !
Yes I did this .
Gary