SKU SW101591 Ordered new from primary arms for $595 ($655 shipped after taxes).

Love my S&W revolver and bought this based on reviews and price.

Suggestions for decent range config? Good “mid-grade” red dot that’s not too expensive but not cheapest of cheap either? Any must-have upgrades? I’m thinking a sling and red-dot to start. I also see people changing the grips, stock, and hand rest. I plan to put some rounds through it out of box before going too crazy!

Thanks for suggestions!

I would get a set of flip up iron sights first can't recommend can't red dot. l've been looking at Vortex and Holosun on Midway USA Optics Planet and Primary Arms. I bought a Sport II few months ago and being lefty installed ambi charging handle , mag release and safety selector . Have old school GI sling and just ordered Magpul M-Lok handguard . Also have Stoner extra parts kit and several extra 30 and 20 rd mags.

Attached Images

20210424_051931_HDR M&P AR.jpg (40.5 KB, 118 views)

I'd go with iron sights first but you want a metal sight on the gas block like Magpul Pro. After that a red dot. The Holosun and Romeo 5 are good ones for the money.

Primary Arms has the Sig Romeo MSR on sale right now (for the next 21 hrs only) for $89.99! (reg $149.99). Jump on it while you can.

SIG Sauer ROMEO-MSR Red Dot Sight - 2 MOA

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Looks like a decent price.

Range gun only or likely very mostly.

I love hard sights. Skip the hard sights for now and pick a decent optic.
I mostly prefer magnified prism scopes for their utility. A few different ones to choose from.

Sling. Unless you are using it as an assist for improved firing stabilization, I would also take that money and put it toward the optic.

Closing: I have several redo dots of varying prices. Most everyone who has a basic red dot swears their's is the best. So you have that to deal with. I'm a minimalist when it comes to features. I still recommend decent magnified prism scope like Primary Arms 2.5x or 3x. Even in someone's face the magnification is very easy to quickly adjust to. It's very hard to beat both the etched glass reticle and illuminated reticle when needed on a prism scope.

Regardless of a decent optic, it's almost paid for with the savings incurred from delaying a sling and hard sights. The remainder of the parts can wait a while. Shoot the **** out of it and assess whether or not you really, really wish that something else in the line of parts would be preferential. In 99% of the civilian world it really comes down to personal preference, which is fine, as opposed to functionality. Good luck and enjoy your new gun.

Thanks guys, the talk about iron sights makes me wonder if I should have got that model instead but, I told myself I was getting a good deal with this one at $595 and flexibility to config from scratch. But I get what y’all are saying completely. If the battery fails the gun is almost useless without back up iron.

Jbtrucker good suggestions, I’m also a lefty.

Saw several of these this weekend with red dots installed at a gun show here in Mobile, AL for around $830 (cash price and before taxes).

I’m kicking myself for walking away from these sub-$500 at a gun show a few years back but honestly didn’t have the $$$ at the time.

Bamashooter yes I’ve got a shotgun in the closet and a .40 in the nightstand for home defense so I do just see this as a starter range AR-15.

To add to this statement what are the thoughts on doing a red-dot (primary) and offset iron sights (backup) set-up?

Or better to learn with standard flip up iron sights, and add red dot later? Drawback of that being you would have to take the scope off if you ever wanted to use iron again? Probably silly questions but I’m new.

If you are going with an un-magnified 1x red dot, then most all come with the proper height mount for your AR. A set of flip up sights will co-witness thru your red dots lenses should the batteries die.

A set of pop up sights that off set would work well for a magnified optic like a scope or prism sight.

Larry

If you have the OR get an Optic. Modern choices are 1x4 Illuminated variable or Red Dot, check on line reviews and places like InRangeTV. I just put a Holosun HS403B on my Ruger PCC and 507c on my Glock 19 Gen 5 MOS.
Still working with both.
Geoff
Who needs more practice, sigh.

I put a Vortex StrikeFire II red/green 4 MOA on mine. I like it very much especially having the option of either red or green easily. It was 199.00 and has great build quality.

My config. is not as common. Old eyes.
Burris 332 which gives 3x magnification, red, green or black when not
turned on or battery dead. I usually just use it not on with black sights.
Front mounted lasermax Spartan laser with light combo. Very light
Weight and easy close quarters.
No iron sights since Burris works without power.
Burris is not lightweight though.

I picked up the std Sport 2 last year, was my first AR and I wanted the base w/ open sights as my starter. To get used to the platform before having to add optics. That said, as I dont have much luck with scopes thanks to my eyesight and glasses, I am going to try a Holosun (510c green) which will cowitness with the stock sights if needed. And with its solar backup, battery usage should be at a minimum.
For my main needs (range and fun) i am thinking that should work well. Will see soon enough lol.

Sig Romeo5 is a very nice red dot for a great price. I love the auto on auto off feature. It has a crisp dot unlike others if you are older person . Some red dots I own look like a shooting star to me and my 15 years old daughter sees a round dot. The Sig Romeo5 is model # SOR52001 and can be found for $120 . I own more than one.

Offsets are mostly internet marketing / sales bs.

I haven't bought a red dot, yet.

I'm looking at a couple, with the Romeo 5 currently at the top of the list.

I want 100% co-witness for the simple reason I don't want to have to re-adjust my sight picture, or learn two different ways of sighting depending. So, I don't even want a lower 1/3 co-witness.

An off-set arrangement would be my absolute last choice, meaning I would never do that at all.

(But, all of that is just thinking, since I only have factory-original iron sights now.)

Personally I like a lower 1/3 co-witness. With the red dot just put the dot on the target. Flip up the irons and use a standard sight picture.

Trigger upgrade. I went with CMC 4,5Lb drop in on my Sport, love it
Lots of trigger upgrades out there.
Jim

I kept it simple. I had limited time when I acquired my sport 2 optics ready CA compliant model (pandemic) so immediately after cleaning out the new firearm, I just went straight to the range, zeroed out some aftermarket metal sights and went shooting. I think I went through almost 400 rounds without any type of failures, but it was sure difficult dealing with that fin grip, non-adjustable stock, and of course those measly 10 round magazines. I do have a Romeo 5 now.


The best configuration is gun, some sights (if your is optics ready like mine) and plenty of ammo..that is the best configuration.

Update:

Shot at the range for first time yesterday. Smooth as silk and fired every round effortlessly.

Sighted in Mbus Pro Iron sights, and carried with a magpul sling. I did not notice the hand-rest getting more than slightly warm, so don't feel the need to replace it at the moment. Grip was fine. The butt stock has some wiggle, but I didn't feel like it negatively affected shooting.

I spent about an hour consulting youtube vidoes on how to clean/then cleaning it. I'm gonna get some better tools and do it in 1/3 the time next cleaning. Fun day!

https://ibb.co/R4dtrVV

Edit: I almost forgot. What is Magpul thinking when their instructions recommend a zero distance for these iron sights at 200 meters? The bullseye is already small at 50 yards without magnification! Can you even see the target at 200m?

I just picked up a BN MP Sport2 OR/CrimsonTrace model, LOVE it!
I'm up to the following: Aim Sports Quad Rail, BCM 3x3 ambi handle, MOE+grip, MOE CTR stock, QD swivels/sling, DD vertical foregrip, Magpul BAD Lever, BCM ambi safety. Currently looking into ambi mag release also. Enjoy Brother, sky's the limit!

What brand/model of iron sites would you recommend, and the best vendor?

My LGS said to avoid polymer sights due to ease of breaking, and stick with metal. Thoughts about that?

You're LGS guy is a putz. Nothing wrong with the Magpul polymer BUIS.

If you're determined to go with metal BUIS you might as well go with something by Troy, Yankee Hill, GG&G, etc. Stay away from the ChiCom junk.

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Eric300, thanks. Are Palmetto State Armory's home-brand of polymer sites okay?

If going with polymer, why not go with the market leader... Magpul.

What cypetext said. Under $100.00 delivered.

MAGPUL AR-15 MBUS GEN 2 SIGHT SET | Brownells

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OK it's pretty obvious your new to rifles. So some knowledge about sighting in rifles and sights.

First yes I do know what I'm talking about. I'm a firearms instructor for the third largest police department and I've attended the FBI Law Enforcement Firearms Instructor course. I also have 10 years of service with the Marine Corps.

So 200 yards/meters. Just to put things into perspective up until a few years ago Marine recruits qualified at 500 yards with iron sighted M16A2 rifles. Now they shoot with M16A3's with ACOGs.

Anyway when your talking about sighting in distance factors such as the size of the target your shooting at, muzzle velocity of the cartridge your shooting, ballistic coefficient, a fancy term for how aerodynamic a bullet is, and height of your sight over the bore.

This drawing shows in general terms what happens you fire a round with a 100 yard zero.



Couple of things to note.

1. What this drawing calls "base line", is your line of sight. At one end is your eyeball and at the far end is your target. Between the two are your sights. This line for our purposes is a straight line.
2. All barrels, in order to hit a target more then 25 feet away, are canted at an upward angle. The absolute split second the bullet is no long in contact with the barrel gravity starts to affect it's trajectory. If it was not for gravity then the bullet would fly at the upward angle forever, which is shown here at the "bore axis" line.

Because of gravity a bullets path at longer distances is in the shape of an arc, specifically a parabolic arc, meaning it's drop becomes steeper towards the end.

Now because AR15 sights are normally mounted 2-2 1/4 inches above the boreline, people over time have come up with ways to sight in ARs so at both closer, meaning 50 yards, and longer, meaning 200 yards, the bullet with cross the base line/line of sight.

Continued.

This drawing illustrates this point.

[IMG]"https://press.hornady.com/assets/site/hornady/images/ballistics/trajectory-figureb.gif" alt="Figure B"/>[/IMG]

Basically what's happening is the bullet is crossing the baseline at an upward angle at 50 yards, and crossing the baseline/line of sight at 200 yards on a downward angle.

This setup, sometimes called a 50/200 zero, allows for a fair degree of precision at both closer range and longer range.

At very close range, 20-25 feet, your bullet will strike 1 1/2-2 inches below your line of sight, depending on if your using irons or optics, and if the optic is true or 1/3 cowitness. Regardless knowing if your bullet is above or below line of sight, and at what distance, is important to hitting your target, or NOT, depending on the size of your target.

A 50/200 zero will have your bullet above/below line of sight no more the 2 1/2 inches out to 250 yards, give or take. So if your target is bigger then 5 inches in diameter and you zero 50/200 then you can aim center and hit it out to 250 yards, making 250 yards your maximum point blank range, or the distance you can hit a target without making a sight adjustment. This is all based on standard AR ammo and barrel length. Going to extremely light/fast or extremely heavy/slow bullets, or extremely short barrels will affect your zero and point blank range.

Your link for the drawing did not work for me.

Here is a link of the same drawing that does work for me.