Hey guys I've read through all the threads about replacing springs or taking out the pigtail spring, I had a quick question I am a new owner of a sigma and I know I should just shoot a few 100 rounds before I make the decision to do any changing to the gun itself so I wont take that chance yet but in the invent I do decide to change the springs has anyone heard of this ebayer selling replacement springs for the sigma?

Smith & Wesson Sigma S&W SW Trigger Spring Replacement - eBay (item 250774445283 end time Mar-17-11 16:35:58 PDT)

I spoke with the guy running the auction and asked if he selling old springs from a used pencil and this is what he said:
Dear, xxxx,

There is np professionally made springs made by S&W.
We have used this spring and found it to be the best replacement for reducing trigger pull.
We've shoot 1000 rounds with this spring.

- irepair4you

Anyone have any experierence with this? Has anyone tried using this spring in their sigma? Any insight would be helpful

I also wanted to add this will be a range gun only

First, welcome to the forum!

As a new sigma owner, I recommend that you get some time with the gun before you decide whether or not to modify it. Mine is stock and has never had any kind of failure.

Pencil springs belong in pencils not in guns.

Don't let the internet get into your head, just shoot it and have fun.

Best wishes!

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SD9VE, American perfection!

I'll second Lee, particularly if the gun may be used in any kind of defensive role.

True you guys are right but, my question is the seller said they were professionally made springs by S&W and they are not pencil springs anyone ever try this specific spring?

Professional springs huh? I didn't check the link, does the spring package have Smith and Wessons name on it? Sounds like a bunch of **** if you ask me. If your buying something with Smith's name on it, the seller shouldn't have to use the word professional would they? Sounds weird and I would stay away from it.

I'm in the same boat as Lee and Quanah. Shoot the gun and see if you like the goods before changing things. Then decide what you want to do. The gun will smooth out or you will just get used to it. It's a cool gun just the way it is.

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The kool-aid Sigma drinker

When I go up to the Smith and Wesson store, I'll check and see if they have any Trigger springs for the Sigma, all packaged up in nice labeled plastic bags, hanging on pretty long hooks with SKU#'s on them.... Not!!!! I also checked this link out on EBAYand just shook my head.. the price is the giveaway, this guy is not who he claims to be. Probably a laid off BIC pen salesman As the fellas befor said, leave it alone, this trigger will work itself out and you'll be better off for it. It's a great training tool for patience, sight hold and trigger squeeze. The only thing I noticed today is, since it is a striker fired weapon, I couldn't cheat and stage the hammer

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82nd Airborne Div 1980-1986

Don't worry, just shoot 15,000 rounds out of your sigma and it will start to smooth out for you. That's the safe way.

I would also be skeptical of springs advertised in such manner. On the other hand, there are a lot of modifications to the Sigma that have been done safely and have resulted in a smooth, easy trigger.

My suggestion, if you wish it, is to read other comments in this forum and make your own decision. There are many in this S&W forum that have successfully made mods to their Sigma and are willing to share their ideas.

I am not suggesting that anyone above is wrong. Actually, in my opinion, they are correct. The more wear your Sigma gets on it, the smoother it will be and the weaker the springs will get so you have an easier trigger. In my opinion, I have just circumvented the break in period and made those changes up front. I have smoothed the action by polishing. I have changed out most of the springs for those of less strength. As with any machine, there is a limit as to how much you can modify it before it becomes unreliable. You have to ask yourself, do you want to chance making it an unreliable shooter?

Two considerations:
Keep your original parts so that you can back track if you go too far in mods.
Will any of your changes void the warranty?

Now you have arguments for both sides of the view regarding sigma modifications.

But, before buying springs on ebay, I would suggest that you learn a little more about what you might get. There are reputable companies out there that make parts for the Sigma, that have years of a good track record. If you are going to make serious changes to a "weapon" then go with quality and be safe.

More gently stated than I posted above My apologies for the unsolicited sarcasam

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82nd Airborne Div 1980-1986

Thanks for all the info I've read every page of this forum regarding mods or future, also everyone's personal experience. My last question would be if I polished the internals such as the feed ramp, if i polish the sear will that void my warranty?

Shouldn't be a problem, unless you do so much buff and polish that you take it out of Spec..

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82nd Airborne Div 1980-1986

Depends on if you wish to have a Clean Breaking or Mushy Breaking Sear Release.

When you POLISH you Round The Final Engaging Surfaces of the Sear and Striker Tang. Thus you get two rounded surfaces like two Ball Bearings releasing from each other giving you a Mushy Breaking Release. Stoning to the exact Square Angle that is already used on these two surfaces gives you a Clean Sharp Break as in two building blocks breaking contact with each/other. For an Ultra Crisp Breaking Sear/Striker break one would include an additional 45 Degree angle cut on both the Sear and Striker Tang Contact Surfaces as is done with most all 1911 Sear/Hammer Trigger Work.

To recap Polishing no matter how carefully done will Round the angles on the Striker Tang/Sear Engagment Surfaces. So that being said about the sear striker you can lose additional weight by replacing the Trigger Return Spring with a Stock Weight Glock 17/19/23 Trigger Return Spring but you must turn one of the spring ends 180 Degrees and close up the end for a Sigma Swap so it will not disengage from the stationary mounting arm.

*Note: If you are Tool Worthy this is very easy to accomplish if you aren't so Tool Handy find someone that is
and forget the .25 Trigger Job. Or you can shoot several thousand rounds enjoy the calus on your Trigger Finger and expect even more Trigger Pull Improvement a few more Thousand Rounds down the road.

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John McCaw
FFL/SOT2

Damn!! Now that's an answer!!

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82nd Airborne Div 1980-1986

First of all, this is not a "trigger spring", what they are selling on eBay is a weaker sear reset spring. Also, the YouTube video link on that eBay site is of a guy taking out the sear pigtail spring, it has nothing to do with what they are selling. Just for grins I tried removing the pigtail in mine and it had no perceptible effect on trigger pull. I put it back. If the sear does not reset the gun doesn't fire. There are three springs that reset the sear. Having said that, given the strength of the other springs, I doubt the pigtail makes much difference one way or the other.

If this is a range gun only, then you can go to Wolff at Gunsprings.com and buy a replacement striker spring that is 3.5 lbs instead of the stock 4.75 lbs. I bought this for less than $10 including S&H and it does noticeably reduce the trigger pull. However even Wolff has plastered all over the package that this is for competition only and may reduce reliability.

As I use this gun for SD carry in the car, I keep the original 4.75 lbs striker in it.

Actually, after I did my own "trigger fix", I found the gun to be perfectly smooth and pleasant to shoot. I've posted that fix on another site and I'll repost it on this Sigma/SD site under "Any tips on Trigger mod?"

I did not want to use the Wolf 3.5lb striker spring because research indicated some incidents of light firing pin hits. SO, I purchased the 4lb Glock striker spring, which is slightly less than the Sigma 4.75lb spring. So far, no light strikes. I have been reluctant to mention it before firing a few hundred successful shots with it. I have only fired about two hundred rounds, so far without failure. I figured that if some failures were documented using the 3.5lb spring, then lets see what the 4lb spring can do. Perhaps this is the minimum pressure needed in conjunction with reducing the friction via polishing surfaces.

Yes, I have replaced almost all the other springs other than the extractor spring and recoil spring. I have incurred NO adverse affects yet.

If you polish anything, be warned-do it by hand, not by machine...and POLISH, not re-shape. There is nothing manufactured that is so well made it cannot be screwed up by a Dremel tool...


mark

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Liberals made the USA

I tried the springs trick and ended up just removing the pigtail spring.
Otherwise i just polished every part of the trigger that I could get to.
It's pretty strong but it smoothed out well and became a reliable piece.
I really like the grip of the 9VE.

MDLNB - Good idea, is the Wolff Glock 4.0 lb striker spring the same length and diameter (uncompressed) as the original S&W 4.75 lb spring? I'd like to try it.

dogngun - A very good warning. In my "trigger fix" instruction on another thread I described the manual tools for doing the work. I'm going to edit that post and add a warning not to use power tools. I'd hate to see someone use a Dremel and ruin their gun.

John McCall - You make good points about the sear. If one does the minimum it should be to polish the rear part of the metal sear that contacts the plastic sear housing. Essentially you have a rough piece of steel vs. plastic. I don't think that steel is going to smooth out by rubbing against plastic. In this battle, plastic loses.

Zebra, the striker on the Glock is pretty close to the same in size as the striker on the sigma. The Wolf Glock spring seemed a bit longer uncompressed than the sigma spring, but compresses down to fit. The diameter is visually the same. Like I said, I can't swear by this experiment until I have operated it more. Right now, it works fine and I have had no failures. I have also enhanced this spring change by smoothing/polishing all working parts. I also use S&W Dry Lube, which sprays on wet and then dries, making a very slick but dry action. I really don't think that I would go with a weaker spring unless I used it in conjunction with polishing all the parts to reduce friction. I have been watching the expended shells to see if the dimple on the primer will become too shallow. So far it seems to make a fine imprint.

By the way, if you are wanting to polish the slot in the sear that the pin rides in, I have found an idea that you might consider. I cut a cotton qtip in half, and pulled part of the cotton off the end. Then, I attached it to a Dremel and used red polishing compound on the cotton swab to polish the inside of the slot. That will smooth the feel of the trigger action a bit. I use the Demel with a felt tip to polish the metal parts to a mirror finish, including the chamber ramp. I don't grind with the Dremel, I polish.

Polish? Yes, but I'd be very gingerly around the sear. Work on the ramp, just don't change its shape. It's a nice gun. Wish I had mine back.

If you get serious about Polishing you need to check these folks out. The Taper Wheel is the way to go for the Sear Slot.

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John McCaw
FFL/SOT2