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  #51  
Old 02-26-2016, 07:35 PM
EPWrangler EPWrangler is offline
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look for surfaces that contact and slide against each other. Like the trigger and sear contact surfaces. spring and strut surfaces.
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  #52  
Old 03-01-2016, 05:22 PM
VonZipper VonZipper is offline
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Trigger fix on sw9ve...yay or nay? Trigger fix on sw9ve...yay or nay? Trigger fix on sw9ve...yay or nay? Trigger fix on sw9ve...yay or nay? Trigger fix on sw9ve...yay or nay?  
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Have things SD9VE and am getting use to the stock trigger. I do like the way it feels.
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  #53  
Old 03-01-2016, 05:52 PM
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Default Ultradot Matchdot 2 on S&W 41 PC

Hi Guys:
I've just spent some time trying mount a Matchdot 2 on my S&W 41PC.
As you can see from the picture, the rail on the top of the gun does not seem to be long enough to install the mounts on opposite ends of the sight. I was able to get them both on the front of the sight, and it seems to be quite secure. I haven't attempted to sight it in yet, so I don't even know if it will work. Does anybody see any danger to mounting the sight this way.
Ultradot advertises that this sight should work on this gun.

Thanks!
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File Type: jpg Red Dot Mounting.jpg (50.9 KB, 35 views)
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  #54  
Old 10-19-2020, 07:09 PM
FoghornLeghorn FoghornLeghorn is offline
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Having acquired a SW40VE with probably less than two boxes of shells through it, I too wanted to improve this sidearm.

First, a Meprolight True-Dot Tritium sight set and Talon Grips were installed. Two simple and effective upgrades that I'd suggest to anyone with one of these sidearms. But then came the all-important issue of that post glock lawsuit terrible heavy, rough trigger....this one was @11-12 gritty pounds.

So, following an "online source" (I don't want to break any rules so I'm withholding the vendor name) with a video guide y'all are likely aware of; the sear sides and sear ramp were polished with 600 and then 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper in rubbing alcohol. The store was out of 1000 so I went with 2000 figuring it would render smoother results than 1000. I think it did. The flat ramp on the sear was also carefully polished the same way....those chatter/stamping marks in the sear stamping were completely removed, and the ramp integrity (flatness) was retained. All 3 polished sear surfaces truly looked like a mirror or chromed, when done.

The sear break-point was not touched whatsoever, as advised.(if a spare sear for backup can be found, a gentle cleanup of that surface may be attempted in the future). While the sear assembly was in pieces on the bench, the outer sear spring was upgraded to the same online vendor's offering. All sear assembly parts were cleaned, reassembled, and then the sear ramp & housing cam surface was treated with dry graphite powder as directed. A bit of time was spent working that powder into the sear's polycarbonate housing cam surface just by squeezing the trigger with the slide off (and sear assembly reinstalled) repeatedly, and dusting those contact areas with a bit more graphite... excess graphite was shook out on the bench. Both the OEM pigtail & outer sear spring have been saved and put away in the S&W box.

Results? Very good. What it did NOT do is shorten the overall pull of the trigger at all. But the gains are still very noticeable and well worth the effort and the $16 spent (YES I'm A PAYING CUSTOMER hehe) on the replacement spring, and $13 for sandpaper & dry graphite down at a local store.

Results: there is the welcome decrease in pull weight and overall increase of pull smoothness. This was just recently performed, so it's a new 'thing'.

What it did accomplish:
1. Decrease, I'd say, @5 pounds off the pull give or take a wee bit. This isn't scientific, but the best I can offer. Very acceptable.

2. Drastically smoothed-out the pull. And it's still improving the more I work the trigger. What I ended-up with, is a virtual two-stage military type of trigger pull...there is the obvious takeup, and then you get to the second stage where the feel noticeably changes (firms-up) and you're approaching the break point. Once you continue to squeeze through the second stage takeup, there's a moderate amt of rearward movement in that stage moving towards the breakpoint & you continue to follow-through a bit and then "BREAK". What I'm perceiving is that while you know that you're approaching the BOOM zone in the pull; once you get there, it seems the break is still a surprise when it happens as you continue the squeeze.

I'd love to see a safe, dependable solution to decrease the travel and improve it more, but I don't think it's out there. Apex doesn't seem to offer one (anymore?). This little sidearm will likely never be known as having anything but a utility trigger, but I like it for what it is now as the improvement is substantial, and it seems to be improving the more it get cycled.

Hope this helps someone else with the SW40/9VE model sidearm.

Thanks, "Jeff" for your product and the invaluable videos. Gladly will send others your way.

Last edited by FoghornLeghorn; 11-13-2020 at 12:56 AM.
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  #55  
Old 10-19-2020, 07:47 PM
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Foghorn: I think I used the same 'online source' to upgrade my SW9VE trigger with similar results. Before I had a quite gritty 12 pound trigger. Afterwards the trigger is much smoother and around 7.75 lbs measured with a gauge. Very happy with the results.
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  #56  
Old 10-19-2020, 08:23 PM
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I own a SD40VE not a 9mm but the trigger is the same. The trigger was not a smooth shooter much rougher than any of my revolvers. I have Apex triggers in many of my revolvers. Why reinvent the wheel? I installed an Apex trigger and noted a lot of improvement. I've never been afraid of improving the trigger. "Judge & jury, I wanted to make sure I did not hit the wrong person."
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  #57  
Old 10-20-2020, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BJH1950 View Post
I know I am late to this discussion. There is one thing though that has been said over and over that just doesn't compute.
--------------
"If you remove or lighten any of the springs in the sear assembly you are still left with the heavy striker spring. If you have 2 springs which are mechanically linked (one is 2lbs the other is 10lbs) and remove or lighten the smaller spring you are still left with the weight of the heavier spring."
---------------------

Your theory is all wrong here. If you have a 10lb spring and add a 2lb spring to it it DOES increase the pull.

it would be like saying I have a 12oz cup with only 10oz coffee in it and add 2oz of coffee. I don't have 10oz of coffee I have 12oz of coffee.

So if I drink 2oz of that 12oz of coffe, I am left with 10oz of coffee.

Springs are work in the same way as gravity in my illustration.

So go have some coffee and take a load off.
I know this is a zombie thread, but I wanted to weigh in on this part of the question anyway. Seems to me that it would depend on how the springs are arranged in relation to each other.

If they are stacked end to end then the weaker one will fully compress first with only 2 lbs pressure then you will proceed to compress the stronger one and that will take 10 lbs pressure.

HOWEVER, if they are one-inside-the-other, or being compressed side-by-side (or a comparable arrangement) so that you are compressing both at the same time, then their compression weights add together to require 12 lbs force to compress both at once.
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Last edited by BC38; 10-20-2020 at 12:52 AM.
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  #58  
Old 10-20-2020, 01:21 AM
FoghornLeghorn FoghornLeghorn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reccpd101 View Post
I own a SD40VE not a 9mm but the trigger is the same. The trigger was not a smooth shooter much rougher than any of my revolvers. I have Apex triggers in many of my revolvers. Why reinvent the wheel? I installed an Apex trigger and noted a lot of improvement. I've never been afraid of improving the trigger. "Judge & jury, I wanted to make sure I did not hit the wrong person."
Ok, so I gather you are running the Apex replacements. My .40 is the SW40VE (before the SD & M&P series, and after the original Sigmas). So I need to find something to fit it, if available. At one time Apex did offer something that had to be fitted to the particular SWVE frames whether the .40 or 9mm. I'll email Apex to see if they still have it, if it will mitigate some of this football-field pull length. Thanks!
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  #59  
Old 10-20-2020, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoghornLeghorn View Post
Ok, so I gather you are running the Apex replacements. My .40 is the SW40VE (before the SD & M&P series, and after the original Sigmas). So I need to find something to fit it, if available. At one time Apex did offer something that had to be fitted to the particular SWVE frames whether the .40 or 9mm. I'll email Apex to see if they still have it, if it will mitigate some of this football-field pull length. Thanks!
I own an SD9 with the Galloway Boudica trigger and Wesbaun spring kit. I originally had an APEX spring kit in it but found the Wesbaun spring kit to be 10X better.
Here are links to the Boudica trigger and Wesbaun spring kit for your SW40VE;
Boudica Short Stroke Trigger for Smith & Wesson SD VE and Sigma VE Pistols > Galloway Precision

Sigma Series Trigger Spring Kit for
Smith & Wesson SW9VE SW40VE C F VE 107-021 - Wesbaun Gun Springs
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File Type: jpg SD9.jpg (59.9 KB, 17 views)
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Last edited by Ruger Nut; 10-20-2020 at 12:38 PM.
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  #60  
Old 10-20-2020, 01:01 PM
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Muss Muggins Muss Muggins is offline
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I'ma guess he's either got it fixed or he hasn't. Been nine years . . .
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  #61  
Old 10-20-2020, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Muss Muggins View Post
I'ma guess he's either got it fixed or he hasn't. Been nine years . . .
Yeah, its a zombie, thread, but since people resurrected it apparently there are others with interest - even if the OP has solved his problem.
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  #62  
Old 10-20-2020, 01:17 PM
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I didn't even look at the date it was posted.
Ah well, the information I posted still stands.
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  #63  
Old 10-20-2020, 07:33 PM
FoghornLeghorn FoghornLeghorn is offline
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Thank you, Ruger Nut. This is FABULOUS stuff!!!

Last edited by FoghornLeghorn; 10-20-2020 at 08:08 PM.
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  #64  
Old 10-20-2020, 07:41 PM
FoghornLeghorn FoghornLeghorn is offline
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Trigger fix on sw9ve...yay or nay? Trigger fix on sw9ve...yay or nay? Trigger fix on sw9ve...yay or nay? Trigger fix on sw9ve...yay or nay? Trigger fix on sw9ve...yay or nay?  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruger Nut View Post
I didn't even look at the date it was posted.
Ah well, the information I posted still stands.

Take heart! My post was only a few days ago on ye olde thread here. SO glad for the response. And thank you for your service to our country!

Last edited by FoghornLeghorn; 10-20-2020 at 07:42 PM.
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  #65  
Old 10-20-2020, 07:44 PM
FoghornLeghorn FoghornLeghorn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muss Muggins View Post
I'ma guess he's either got it fixed or he hasn't. Been nine years . . .
my original query was only posted yesterday on this vintage thread, so you can blame me for waking the zombie thread. hehe
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  #66  
Old 10-23-2020, 06:59 PM
FoghornLeghorn FoghornLeghorn is offline
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I ordered the Boudica trigger today. Had the browser tab cued and they increased the price by .50 cents overnight before I placed the order. Oh well. Still a great deal.

Did your trigger spring kit from Wesbaun come with that little tapered coil stuffed with foam or was it empty? According to what sigmatrigger was saying, that little foam insert is real important for that spring's longevity. I'm about to order that trigger spring kit as well, as I already have the outer sear spring replacement installed. Thanks!

Last edited by FoghornLeghorn; 10-23-2020 at 10:06 PM.
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  #67  
Old 11-13-2020, 12:40 AM
FoghornLeghorn FoghornLeghorn is offline
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Default Update! Phase 2: trigger & spring kit installed

Well....the parts arrived and so we got the show on the road.
Contenders installed in phase 2 of the upgrade: Trigger spring kit from Wesbaun as suggested, and the Boudica trigger from Galloway Precision.

This may sound shallow/superficial, but the Boudica trigger looks the business more than the DA revolver-style shaped OEM unit; it slightly redeems the SW40VE from ugly status; and at first after the install & reassembly in checking functionality I was rather ambivalent with the initial results perceived. Yes it mitigated the over-travel and lessened pre-travel....but...well....was hoping for more. Seemed to get a bit better after 10 cycles. So I slept on it, and then performed some repetitive cycling over the next few days. Somewhere around the 30th cycling things started getting interesting.

I'm happy to report that since a number of cycles with the upgraded pieces (oh I'd say 40 or so) using snap caps; it has improved tremendously. I've no scale so I'm guessing it's in the 5-6+ pound range. IMO it's likely perfect for its intended use as a nightstand/property/truck implement.

There is zero compromise in safety, IMO from the OEM trigger. The welcome decrease in pre-travel is not only noticeable, but the pull is pretty smooth..... now the trigger firms up just a bit after the initial say 1-2 mm of pull and pulls smooth all the way through the break, and stops just afterwards with NO over-travel. Reset is gently tactile with a slightly perceived audible 'tick'. The trigger will likely improve a bit more with more use.

The SW40VE is my first striker-fired sidearm, and perhaps not my last. Admittedly a luddite, I'm somewhat warming up to what's possible with these.

Thank you for the collective advice here, as I believe this has made the most out of this sidearm. No it will never have say, a SA XD-M Elite (or better) trigger, but I'm a happy camper for what I have invested in this little project. Now I need to get out and shoot this thing and put the snap caps away.

Last edited by FoghornLeghorn; 11-13-2020 at 01:01 AM.
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  #68  
Old 12-06-2020, 02:25 AM
FoghornLeghorn FoghornLeghorn is offline
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ADDENDUM & update: I forgot to note that the bottom of the Boudica trigger was chafing on the inside of the trigger guard initially...not so much to bind, but enough that I wasn't chancing any problems as I didn't want any contact in the sweep of the pull as it was. Some sandpaper applied properly to the bottom edge of the Boudica trigger (just enough to see a decent amt of daylight that cold-hot weather won't have any contact between the two surfaces), and it's fine...and yes it keeps improving.
BTW, Thanks, Ruger Nut! you helped me make the choices I did to see this through.
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