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Old 01-02-2013, 12:12 PM
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Default Cleaning question for the SD9VE

This isn't a question about how to clean the gun as I have already researched that via youtube and other outlets.

My question and/or statement is this... I was cleaning my gun just last night (after putting another 200 plus rounds through it the day before) and as always I am careful to not "over lube" it with oil. However, as I was rubbing oil on the metal parts within the handle, some excess oil dripped down from my fingers into the trigger area... I didn't really squeeze the container any harder than normal but for some reason, a lot came out and was literally dripping out through the actual trigger its self.

I tried to take some q-tips and an old cotton t-shirt to clean as much as possible but obviously I couldn't get it all. I went ahead and wiped it down and cleaned the rest of the gun as usual but once I re-assembled it and pulled the slide back I noticed it made a different noise. Almost a little louder of a "click" sound when I would pull the slide to engage the firing system.

Once the trigger was ready to go bang, everything else sounded normal and it felt normal dry firing it (which I don't do a lot) but once I would dry fire it and pull the slide back again, I would notice the louder than normal click. Everything is in the proper place but was wondering what in the world it could be?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or information... this is my first striker-fired polymer pistol.

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Old 01-02-2013, 02:46 PM
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1- Dry firing won't hurt the gun. I've dry fired mine maybe 500 times. That's also the only way to decock or remove the slide is by dry firing.

2- Maybe there is nothing wrong it could be you are noticing the "click" more since the over oiling. As long as everything is working properly I wouldn't worry too much.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:58 PM
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I don't dry fire my weapon very often anyway so I'm not concerned about that. The "clicking" noise seems to be coming from the trigger area which is where the large amount of oil went.

My hope is that it will dry up a bit and get back to normal. Regardless, when I did dry fire it last night it didn't feel different at all. Still seemed smooth and easy (to me anyway) but it only did the clicking during the initial "cocking" of the slide. Once it was engaged, I could rack the slide a 100 times and everything was normal.

I may run a couple of rounds through it tonight to make sure... I have my CCW class on Saturday so I want to make sure everything is on point.

Thanks for the feedback J Rich
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:24 AM
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Well, I came home and wiped out the gun again, racked the slide about 20 times and what do you know? Everything seems back to normal.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:36 AM
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Well you can blow it out with an air hose. But you cant hurt those guns. There tanks.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by CatFanInTn View Post
This isn't a question about how to clean the gun as I have already researched that via youtube and other outlets.
With all due respect, may I suggest that you look at the owners manual, don't think you will find any thing about "rubbing oil on the metal parts in the handle" in there. Put 1 (one) drop where indicated, none (0) elsewhere. Excess oil only attracts dirt, lint, grit, powder residue, and crud, and makes it harder to clean next time.

We all want to protect our tools, but there is a right and a wrong way to go about it.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:33 PM
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With all due respect, may I suggest that you look at the owners manual, don't think you will find any thing about "rubbing oil on the metal parts in the handle" in there. Put 1 (one) drop where indicated, none (0) elsewhere. Excess oil only attracts dirt, lint, grit, powder residue, and crud, and makes it harder to clean next time.

We all want to protect our tools, but there is a right and a wrong way to go about it.
I get that... and no, I wasn't oiling the handle. I was trying to put a drop or two on my finger to rub over the metal within the handle (it was very late and I wasn't paying attention). The next thing I know, an excess amount of oil came out and dripped down into the handle of the gun around the trigger area. No harm no foul as I fired it a couple of time late last night and everything is all good.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:59 PM
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I sometimes, not all the time, put some CLP on a rag and then wipe it over the metal to protect from rust. But I spray on the rag and not directly on.

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Old 01-03-2013, 01:06 PM
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Your just over worried as we all have been there and done that, lol i know i have.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:32 AM
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Your just over worried as we all have been there and done that, lol i know i have.
Yep... I actually cleaned it again then used it for my CCW class tonight. The gun shot flawlessly and I hit 48 of 50 shots within the target area. I love this gun!
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:14 PM
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Hello, I just finished cleaning my SD9VE and I noticed the same clicking noise when pulling the slide back. It almost seems to be catching something but will dry fire fine. Not sure if you figured out why this was happening or if it was just something that I didn't notice before.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:22 PM
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Is there one particular video on YouTube that best demonstrates how to clean a semiautomatic like the SD9? I'm new to this myself, and due to the ammo shortage, all I have is corrosive ammo. I just want to be sure I'm cleaning it sufficiently.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:38 PM
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I just want to be sure I'm cleaning it sufficiently.
As long as you are taking the barrel out and running patches through it from the chamber end. Then making sure the metal parts have a light coat of oil, your firearm will outlast you and your children. I've got firearms that are older than me and have seen rough use and they are in better shape than me. Wow that was hard to admit.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:46 PM
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OK, thanks. Last time I cleaned it - which was also the first time - I removed the slide and took out the recoil spring and barrel. I cleaned the barrel and slide really well, but the spring can't be cleaned with just a brush or cloth. Should I soak this part in solvent? What about the handle? It has a number of parts that can't be directly accessed without disassembly. Should it be soaked in something?
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:57 PM
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Any info on my previous post?
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:58 PM
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Any info on my previous post?
The clicking noise you here is the trigger resetting.

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Old 03-23-2013, 10:09 PM
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Thanks for the input. I just wasn't sure if I had noticed that before or not. I went by academy today and looked at a another smith and Wesson model and didnt notice the same clicking noise but I guess that's a character for the sd9ve.
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:47 AM
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OK, thanks. Last time I cleaned it - which was also the first time - I removed the slide and took out the recoil spring and barrel. I cleaned the barrel and slide really well, but the spring can't be cleaned with just a brush or cloth. Should I soak this part in solvent? What about the handle? It has a number of parts that can't be directly accessed without disassembly. Should it be soaked in something?
The spring can be cleaned with a brush or cloth. Just brush off any dust and wipe the spring and guide rod down with an oiled patch. Take a patch on the cleaning rod or a cotton swab with oil on it and lightly rub over the springs in the frame (handle as you call it). That's all that needs to be done unless you've droped it in a mudpuddle or gone scuba diving in the ocean. The oil is to prevent rust or corrosion. The oil attracts dust so it's good to rub off the dust and rub on some oil. Think of gun cleaning like an oil change for your car. When was the last time you soaked the inside of your engine in cleaning solution? As long as you change the oil regularly(wipe off the old oil and put on fresh with a patch) you are ready to start it up an go. If it sits for a long time, you still need to change the oil before you go on a trip.

If you want more info. Pm me and I'll give you my phone number and I can talk you through it. If I had a better video camera, I'd make a cleaning video but my camera only shoots 60 seconds at a time. I'm not on here everyday so it might take a few days for me to reply. You've done all you need to do for now. There is a thread on here somewhere in which a member posted a youtube video link of how to clean but you'll have to search for it. I think Hickock45 on youtube has a cleaning video as well. It doesn't matter if it is a glock or sig or SD video as the cleaning is the same. The only change is how to take it apart and you already know that. Hope this helps!
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Old 03-27-2013, 01:36 PM
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Cool Cleaning instructions

A good video to watch for cleaning your pistol is Hickock45's video on cleaning a Glock. Our pistol is very similar to the Glocks and so is cleaning them.

For specific lube instructions, I like the way Scott shows it in the Apex Tactical spring kit video (near the end). Very simple without overdoing it.

Hope that helps!

JoeMap
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:09 PM
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Thanks for the input. I just wasn't sure if I had noticed that before or not. I went by academy today and looked at a another smith and Wesson model and didnt notice the same clicking noise but I guess that's a character for the sd9ve.


The clicking noise is from the striker sear sliding off the trigger sear. When the Sigma/SD is de-cocked the striker sear rests on top of the trigger sear. When pulling the slide back the trigger sear pops up slightly (this is the click noise) now the sears are face to face and is cocked.

Now I'm not sure of the SD, but the Sigma has a hole in the backing plate of the slide. You can use a small flashlight to observe this action.
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:15 AM
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Thanks for everyone's advice on cleaning. I'll check the Hickok45 and Apex videos to see if I'm overlooking anything.
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by CatFanInTn View Post
This isn't a question about how to clean the gun as I have already researched that via youtube and other outlets.

My question and/or statement is this... I was cleaning my gun just last night (after putting another 200 plus rounds through it the day before) and as always I am careful to not "over lube" it with oil. However, as I was rubbing oil on the metal parts within the handle, some excess oil dripped down from my fingers into the trigger area... I didn't really squeeze the container any harder than normal but for some reason, a lot came out and was literally dripping out through the actual trigger its self.

I tried to take some q-tips and an old cotton t-shirt to clean as much as possible but obviously I couldn't get it all. I went ahead and wiped it down and cleaned the rest of the gun as usual but once I re-assembled it and pulled the slide back I noticed it made a different noise. Almost a little louder of a "click" sound when I would pull the slide to engage the firing system.

Once the trigger was ready to go bang, everything else sounded normal and it felt normal dry firing it (which I don't do a lot) but once I would dry fire it and pull the slide back again, I would notice the louder than normal click. Everything is in the proper place but was wondering what in the world it could be?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or information... this is my first striker-fired polymer pistol.
No worries. I've have lots of striker fired guns. Best advice I can give is shoot the living **** out of it. It will be fine. These guns aren't finicky like 1911's. if you think you have too much lube, clean it like a dish using dawn. Let dry, little lube and you are good to go. Don't worry about it. Just shoot and enjoy!
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Old 04-28-2016, 01:29 PM
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No worries. I've have lots of striker fired guns. Best advice I can give is shoot the living **** out of it. It will be fine. These guns aren't finicky like 1911's. if you think you have too much lube, clean it like a dish using dawn. Let dry, little lube and you are good to go. Don't worry about it. Just shoot and enjoy!
have you done this with the Dawn? i ask because i seen some videos of people using a ultra sonic machine. on youtube. with water in it.
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:38 PM
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OK, thanks. Last time I cleaned it - which was also the first time - I removed the slide and took out the recoil spring and barrel. I cleaned the barrel and slide really well, but the spring can't be cleaned with just a brush or cloth. Should I soak this part in solvent? What about the handle? It has a number of parts that can't be directly accessed without disassembly. Should it be soaked in something?
The spring and recoil rod are NOT a set of parts that operate with fine tolerances or cannot stand a little wear from rubbing together. A little powder residue will always get in there, but won't cause any meaningful harm. You can blow it out with canned air, or use a little extra oil and let it drain, but it is not worth a lot of time! The guide rod and captured recoil spring should be replaced every 3000-5000 rounds anyway -- and the old one thrown away (see other threads on where to get replacement springs/rods, e.g., from S&W, Galloway, or use a Glock G19 spring/rod).

And I would not recommend soaking the frame (with all of the internal parts) in oil or solvent. Clean what you can reach with a tip of a rag, Q tips, or pipe cleaners -- but I would not recommend immersing the frame in oil, solvent, or water (or ultra sonic cleaning fluid). All of that will just leave fluid/solvent/oil in places where it will attract dirt or powder, which will turn into gunk. In addition, you may notice there is a piece of white cotton in the trigger return spring -- it is there to dampen high-speed vibrations that can lead to a broken spring during firing -- and that piece of cotton should be kept dry.

To reinforce the advice in virtually every post or video on cleaning -- the bore needs to be cleaned periodically, and key points where metal slides against metal (like the slide rails, the outside front of the barrel, the barrel hood) need to be cleaned and lightly oiled periodically.

Some folks advocate using grease instead of oil -- I used Mobil 28 aircraft grease -- but that is another topic.

There are probably 25 or 30 major types of lubricant you can use; virtually all of them work fine. The only advice I offer there is just don't spend too much for some super-duper special stuff that costs $30 for an eyedropper's worth, and don't use WD-40 (its really a water displacer, and contains very little actual lubricant in it).
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:55 PM
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<snip>

And don't use WD-40 (its really a water displacer, and contains very little actual lubricant in it).
Very good comment. I was at General Dynamics Astronautics in San Diego when WD-40 came to be. GD bought it in barrels to use on the spot weld joints of the Atlas. The stainless steel balloon, which was the inflated body of the missile, would rust where it had been spot or roll welded. Even more serious in the upper stage Centaur.

WD-40 wasn't the 40th try, it was just a good name. I am pretty sure that WD-40 is over 90% kerosene and or naptha.

Anyone wonder why the company, which was across the street from GD Astro, was "Rocket Chemical Company"?

One more memory. In those days we bought new homes before they were built and they had no lawn or fences. The neighbors got together and built redwood fences. I did a simple test . . . I sprayed some ordinary nails, driven into a fence post, with WD-40. A week later they were rusted.
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Old 04-28-2016, 08:17 PM
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I'm with (a bit) more lube is better, than not enough lube.

Not saying that a gun needs dunked in a vat of oil, but running a too-dry gun can also be just as harmful in that depending on the type of gun, the oil is it's blood in order to run properly and keeping the metals/polymers from rubbing against each other, much like the oils needed in a vehicle's engine.

Here's a little video that might help:
gunsovertexasradio.com/2014/12/15/myth-lubrication-according-larry-vickers

While this video is extreme to lubing, it raises more of a point, that it can't harm. This is also done on poly and metal guns only.
What all that lube will do, is collect dust/dirt and other gritty things that you don't want, which is more inline with lubing a gun, but if you notice that you used a little extra oil on some parts, it can't hurt the gun.

Where you definitely don't want to use lots of lube is in the firing pin channel, as it could delay or slow down the pin trying to move quickly and the gun could give a light primer strike trying to displace all the extra oil.

Also, where you DO NOT want extra oiling/lubing is in older guns that have wooden stocks/hand grips, etc. All that oil can roll away from the part and ruin the wood from the absorbshion if it doesn't have wood protection. Just think of Grandpa's old lever action.

Just follow the manufacturer's lubing recommendations and find a lube that works for you and you'll be fine--even if you add a few extra drops of oil.

Also, the colder the temperatures, the lighter the lubes need to be for weapon(s) to function. If at gun range, just add a few extra drops as gun heats up during rounds, to help keep friction down.

I use Mobil1 10w30 year round in my firearms(Missouri), but if temps are sub freezing for long periods of time(Alaska, Minnesota, etc) I'd drop down to a Mobil1 0-20.

So far, I've never experienced a misfire from this oil, and I run my AR15's quite WET, while my other guns only get moderate drops of oil.
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Old 04-28-2016, 11:32 PM
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Where you definitely don't want to use lots of lube is in the firing pin channel, as it could delay or slow down the pin trying to move quickly and the gun could give a light primer strike trying to displace all the extra oil.
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Also, where you DO NOT want extra oiling/lubing is in older guns that have wooden stocks/hand grips, etc. All that oil can roll away from the part and ruin the wood from the absorbshion if it doesn't have wood protection. Just think of Grandpa's old lever action.
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Also, the colder the temperatures, the lighter the lubes need to be for weapon(s) to function. If at gun range, just add a few extra drops as gun heats up during rounds, to help keep friction down.
All of these ^^^ are good statements!

Cleaner or lubricant can get into the striker channel when you clean the slide, so it pays to be careful (the striker can be removed and the channel cleaned periodically, but the trick is to leave virtually no oil in there).

As for cold weather, one of the reasons I use Mobil 28 aircraft grease is that it is designed to function on aircraft external parts while the plane is at altitude -- where it is very cold -- so it won't stiffen or get hard, slowing down the slide's recoil. It is a good item to try if you experience balky functioning on cold days or live in the frozen north. It works fine in warm weather, too; its overall operating range is -65F to 350F! Not that I want to hijack the thread into a discussion of the best lubricant!
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