Finished Take Down Bar w/pics.

[J Rich]

I decided to mod the frame around the TD Bar to make the bar easy to grab. Here is before and after pics.

The first 2 are before.
last 2 are after.

[J Rich]

Here is the new aluminum Take Down Bar that I made with simple tools. It is 0.095 wider at the ears and 0.045 at the upper tab to help eliminate side to side movement.

This is the first one I may do a few more to just refine it.

[J Rich]

Others Sigma and kell tec, Modded Sigma mag plate, and TD Bar.

[Out West]

J Rich let me start by saying I enjoy your posts. But, this time I don't get it. Were you really having trouble using the factory take down bar? Enough to justify grinding on the frame? No bueno.

Out
West

[shawn mccarver]

Originally Posted by J Rich

I decided to mod the frame around the TD Bar to make the bar easy to grab. Here is before and after pics.

The first 2 are before.
last 2 are after.

Isn't the "take down bar" as you call it made of steel for a reason? Doesn't it interface with the barrel lug during lock up, making it therefore a stressed part requiring strength and the support of ample sections of frame? This seems like a bad idea for several reasons. Sorry.

[J Rich]

Out West.

Thanks for the complements. Think the picture makes it seem as it is more than it is. I only took 0.060" off each side of the frame for a total of 0.120" off the total width of the frame. Is there a chance of it breaking? Yes anything is possible. Is it likely? No I don't think it would this one of the thickest parts of the frame.

To answer you no I really didn't have that hard of a time, but it is much easier now.




Shawn

You never let me down. Yes you are correct with every part of your post. This is the first one let's call it a "prototype" just for giggles. I do have steel to make the next one out of. Aluminum is just easier work with. However mine is slightly thicker. Will it hold up? We will see.

Plus I still have the original in tact. It only takes minutes to change.


Oh if it's not called a "Take Down Bar" what do you call it?

[stringpicker]

I'd make a new one out of 4140, then flame harden with an oil quench soon. The aluminum won't last, and could create issues. Aluminum isn't as strong, and has the ability to transfer to steel after repeated strikes.

While I don't feel comfortable with the amount of plastic you took out, I don't think it will really hurt the operation of the handgun. Personally, I wouldn't have taken anymore than .030" p/s out.

[Jeffersonwasright]

Originally Posted by stringpicker

I'd make a new one out of 4140, then flame harden with an oil quench soon.

Maybe clear anodized 6061 would work OK here. Anodizing won't keep aluminum from bending, but it does produce a much harder wear surface. My tanks are down at the moment, but I have an anodizing system in my garage, along with a small CNC mill. I just hate working with steel because it dulls my end mills so fast. Once an end mill is used on even mild steel, it will no longer cut cleanly in aluminum. The other approach to all this would be to make a small U-shaped tool from plastic to push down the bar. I never actually disassemble the gun in the field, so using a tool that I keep at home would be only a very minor inconvenience.

[3hounds]

Very nice

Definition of modify: To make small changes to something: An alteration, change slightly, especially in order to improve.

My Definitions of Modify: To try to improve something for your own tastes or liking.

Also to screw something up that originally was better in the first place.

I've done both and learned from it.

I like to modify things if I think I can handle it or if the wife let's me, ( Her Jeep to be exact).

J Rich good job on the proto, I like it.

It was the original Sigma that had the cut out's for the bar right ?

Any idea how deep the cut out's were on that one ?

I've done the cut out's on my own SD40VE awhile ago but did not make a new bar yet.

That's why I like it so much.

Shawn not to meaning sound like an A** to you but did you ever modify anything ?

Luv ya Shawn.

3

[J Rich]

Thanks 3

I'm not sure if all Sigmas had the cut outs, but I do know the VEs do. I can put the factory unit back in and get rid of the aluminum. Anyway It didn't cost anything to make just my time.

[3hounds]

Are you going to shoot it with the aluminum bar ?

After making it I would at least try it and keep checking to see how it's holding up.

3

[3hounds]

Originally Posted by Jeffersonwasright

Maybe clear anodized 6061 would work OK here. Anodizing won't keep aluminum from bending, but it does produce a much harder wear surface. My tanks are down at the moment, but I have an anodizing system in my garage, along with a small CNC mill. I just hate working with steel because it dulls my end mills so fast. Once an end mill is used on even mild steel, it will no longer cut cleanly in aluminum. The other approach to all this would be to make a small U-shaped tool from plastic to push down the bar. I never actually disassemble the gun in the field, so using a tool that I keep at home would be only a very minor inconvenience.

They do make a tool for the bar, actually it's made for the Glock.

Brownell's sells it they call it slide removal tool.

3

[J Rich]

Originally Posted by 3hounds

Are you going to shoot it with the aluminum bar ?

After making it I would at least try it and keep checking to see how it's holding up.

3

I think I'll put 20 through it then break it down and check it. I really don't think there is some enormous amount of pressure on this piece. The way I see it you have the weight the slide slamming home on the barrel and the barrel pressing on the TD Bar. So how much force is that with the factory 18# spring?

The only thing is if it did break. How hard will it be to get the slide off? Yea not easy.

[Jeffersonwasright]

Originally Posted by 3hounds

They do make a tool for the bar, actually it's made for the Glock.

Brownell's sells it they call it slide removal tool.

Well, seems I'm always inventing things that already exist. That's really close to what I had in mind. I think this is a much better way to go than modifying the gun.

[Out West]

J Rich,

Sorry to give offense. My bad for commenting. Your gun and you can do whatever you suits you - the owner.

I give you big props for being fearless.

Take care.

Out
West

[shawn mccarver]

Originally Posted by J Rich

Shawn

You never let me down. Yes you are correct with every part of your post. This is the first one let's call it a "prototype" just for giggles. I do have steel to make the next one out of. Aluminum is just easier work with. However mine is slightly thicker. Will it hold up? We will see.

Plus I still have the original in tact. It only takes minutes to change.


Oh if it's not called a "Take Down Bar" what do you call it?

I have never called it anything but I think S&W calls it a "barrel stop," or something strange like that. Glock calls it a "slide lock."

I am glad to know you are going to finish it in steel.

I think there is some company out there that makes an extended (wider) replacement for the similar part in the Glock, but I cannot recall who that is. Maybe you can get them interested in your design. Lone Wolf maybe?

Good luck. The key is getting it enough wider to help with take down, but not so wide it will not work in holsters.

[stringpicker]

Originally Posted by shawn mccarver

I have never called it anything but I think S&W calls it a "barrel stop," or something strange like that. Glock calls it a "slide lock."

I am glad to know you are going to finish it in steel.

I think there is some company out there that makes an extended (wider) replacement for the similar part in the Glock, but I cannot recall who that is. Maybe you can get them interested in your design. Lone Wolf maybe?

Good luck. The key is getting it enough wider to help with take down, but not so wide it will not work in holsters.

Galloway Precision makes them...but it takes the fun out of being able to say that you custom made the parts.

[Jeffersonwasright]

I was about to order one from Galloway last week, but they want half again as much for shipping as for the part. It could be mailed First Class for a couple bucks, but they won't do that. So, another reason to just make this yourself.

[GKC]

First let me say this is your gun, and you can do whatever you want. I also salute you for your efforts.

That being said, I bought the extended take down lever from Galloway, and it works perfect. I didn't really have any problems with the stock part, but the extended lever does make it easier to grasp. I think that making alterations to the frame will invalidate the warranty, and for me, that is a consideration, so I wouldn't do it. That is just my opinion and preference...YMMV.

[J Rich]

Originally Posted by Out West

J Rich,

Sorry to give offense. My bad for commenting. Your gun and you can do whatever you suits you - the owner.

I give you big props for being fearless.

Take care.

Out
West

No offense taken my friend. I respect your comment.





GKC

My sigma is so far out of warranty with the apex kit, spring changes, removals, deburring, polishing, and not to mention I've lost the pigtail spring a long time ago. So, it's safe to say if something breaks I'm going to have to buy the part and fix it myself. Hopefully the frame never breaks. I'm not sure that can be replaced seeing as it's discontinued.

[formula11]

has anyone tried a extended slide lock from a glock they look the exactly same and are cheaper?

[wyccad915]

that is pretty cool. Cuz honestly I did have a hard time with the take down bars the first and only time I took my sd9ve apart, but maybe it will get easier with time? Idk.

[J Rich]

Originally Posted by wyccad915

that is pretty cool. Cuz honestly I did have a hard time with the take down bars the first and only time I took my sd9ve apart, but maybe it will get easier with time? Idk.

Galloway makes an extended slide lock or whatever others call it for $15 plus shipping. This will make it easier for you to release the slide.

I don't recommend anyone else here doing what I did. Cutting on the frame will void the warranty I'm sure. I also found myself bored out of my mind and decided to make my own slide lock. If you made one I'd do steel or a forged aluminum.