I bought a new (and I mean NEW - test fire date 2/12/14!) SD40VE today, since all I can find is .40 ammo on the shelves. I have a SD9VE, so I'm familiar with the gun, but I do have a question about the Galloway Precision recoil rods. In my 9, I used the stock spring weight (Galloway says it's 17, S&W says it's 18) but for the 40, I was thinking of trying the 20 lb. Anyone have any experience with the 20 lb in their SD40VE?

Tuned in on this as well.

What do you need to know?
First off, the stock spring is as good as you can get (ISMI flatwound on a steel rod), Galloway works about as well but costs more.
Second, the spring must be matched to the ammo you use, so the stock spring is JUST RIGHT for regular ammo (18#), and it is the SAME S&W stock number as the stock 9mm recoil spring.

If you put the 20# spring in and shoot standard ammo, you risk gun malfunctions due to short stroking (not locking back at end of mag, misfeeds, etc). So why make them? Some people want to handload heavy max-power screamers and shoot them all the time. More spring helps then.

And before someone asks, you can't reduce recoil by changing recoil springs, you just move it around. A properly matched spring will toss the empties 3 to 6 feet away.

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Science plus Art

I need to know what I asked: does anyone have experience with the 20 lb recoil spring in their SD40VE. Do you have a Galloway 20 lb recoil spring in your SD40VE, and have you shot it, or are merely offering conjecture (which may be based on other guns/other calibers)?

Hmmm...while my stock spring is flat wound, and the inner rod may be steel, it's in a polymer "shell" (for lack of a better term. The Galloway assembly is all steel.

I have helped a shooter who put the 20# spring in his gun to "reduce recoil" and was having functional trouble trying to shoot IDPA with it. I explained the same as I told you (also had previous experience with Glocks, same problem), and when he put the stock spring back in, the problem went away.

I like Galloway products just fine. They work about as well as stock, and their flat-would springs last as long. The reason Galloway uses a "stock spring" that is lighter than the S&W original is that the spring has more friction on the steel rod than the factory polymer rod, and the added friction slows the recoil slightly. I mis spoke: the Sigma/SD rods are polymer, but the springs can be put on a steel rod. Sorry. I use steel rods in M&Ps and make it a point to put a trace of grease on the rod to control friction and galling.

I'm not sure what opinion you have, but my answer is based on seeing a LOT of shooters "improve" their IDPA guns and then come to me when they choke at an IDPA match. And more than one has gotten indignant when their "well thought out" modification causes problems, and has been tried more than once before. Buying aftermarket products is not an automatic improvement, and can cause problems when mismatched.

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Science plus Art

Thank you. Please excuse my earlier snarkiness.

I've always felt that polymer guide rods were a bad idea...but that isn't based on bad experiences with them...just opinion. I'm just an old guy who still likes steel parts...and yes, I realize the irony since we are talking about a polymer framed gun! I couldn't believe the last Colt 1911 I bought came with a polymer main spring housing! That's just wrong...again, my opinion.

The Galloway guide rod in my SD9VE has been excellent...but as I said, it's the 17 lb rated version.

I have read others here that purchased the 20lb and didn't see a whole lot of difference. So I ordered the 22lb assy. Reason being is that I have Underwood ammo for defensive purposes. 155gr Gold dot hp and XTP hp at 1300fps, and 135gr nosler hp at 1500. Hopefully I'll have the chance to try the Underwood ammo and some standard pressure hp's as well as fmj target loads this week. I'll post back here when I do with my results.

I also have a sd40ve but I have trouble with the slide not functioning properly I have to push it forward to get it to close do I need a 20 or 22lb recoil spring all comments are appreciated

I have a sd 40 cal with the stock recoil spring and rod but have the trigger spring kit to the apex springs....was thinking about also upgrading the recoil rod to the stainless steel one for sure but was thinking about going to the 15 lb recoil spring...will this cause damage to the stop on the slide??

Run a Glock 23 gen 3 spring. Better design and 1# heavier than S&W. Dirt cheap too.

The 15 lb spring in the .40 cal is used by people who want to download .40 to minor power for USPSA or IDPA.

It should NOT be used for full power .40 and can result in damage to the gun. The recoil spring should match the ammo for maximum reliability and longevity. It is ironic that so many people want to "upgrade" the recoil assemblies in SDs, when they last almost forever, and the trigger springs break the most.

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Science plus Art

What does the factory know about the pistol they designed and built? Nothing. An aftermarket part is always more thoroughly designed and tested. This is especially true of a part that is essential to the correct functioning and longevity of a firearm that was designed for self-defense.

I was cleaning my pistol, and this happenedimage.jpg

Broken recoil rod?