I just purchased the SD40VE from my local gun store. I immediately disassembled the gun and inspected it. Now when I pick up the gun the slide seems loose and will rattle. This is with the clip in or out. It has never been fired or loaded. I can just slightly flick my hand back and forth with the gun quick sighting and I can detect the rattle. I have read where others have had issues with a clip spring rattle but this is not the issue. Does anyone know if this is an issue with this model? I am not sure if I should take it back to the dealer or what at this point.

When you say "disassembled", do you mean you field stripped it, or you took the gun apart with roll pin punches and other tools?

Just go shoot it, and quit looking for a problem. Slide has to have some play to function.

I shot a Rem 1187 skeet gun for years that when locked open waiting on a squad, I could shake just right and make it rattle like castanets. If a shooter was crowding me or trying to psych me, I would shake it gently and mumble "hope this thing stays together this time."

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Science plus Art

I am a new owner and this is my first smith and Wesson handgun. When I said disassembled I meant field stripped. Just to clean and check out the break down. I will go and shoot it big Bruce. In not looking for something wrong, I'm trying to not blow my hand off from a possible faulty firearm. This was my first post to this forum and I was looking for someone who might of had the same issue or knows that its not a safety issue and maybe common.

I also worry about safety but so far no issues.

Anyhow, I was about to post that my SD9VE slide didn't rattle but decided to check.

If I seriously shake my gun I can indeed make the slide rattle, just in the rear end area. No rattle during normal handling.

Field strip and reassembly is straight forward. Nothing you can do would cause a rattle unless you left out parts like a spring or barrel or something.

I think you'd notice that. A spring in backward can damage some guides if the end is open. But no rattle.

You'll be fine as long as the take down levers are locked in place holding the slide on.

Thanks for the info. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't just me. I understand you need tolerance for easy smooth action but.... It didn't seem normal to me. Going to go shoot it here in an hour and I'll report back if there's any issues or none!

Does the slide actually have enough movement that it rattles against the frame or is something inside the slide rattling? Does it rattle when it's off the frame?

Some Glocks have a similar issue with a rattle in the slide itself. Some owners are saying it's the way the firing pin is designed and rattles when the gun is handled roughly.

If you are new to handguns I expect that you'll report that it shoots low and left, a VERY common result for those new to handguns. The cause is "pulling" the barrel to the left at the end of the trigger stroke combined with a "push flinch" when anticipating the recoil. Note, the above is for right handed shooters, if you are a southpaw you'll tend to go low and right.

BTW, I first started shooting handguns in 1974 and still have a tendency to shoot low and left if I don't keep in practice. My solution when I find myself doing this is to use a bit of Zen and concentrate on achieving a relaxed state of mind and body at the instant the trigger releases. Some days I can get myself sorted out in 5 or 10 minutes and other times it can take me 2 or 3 weeks to start shooting well. It's all a matter of how long I've been away from handgun practice.

As for your slide rattle, that is something that is VERY common with many semi auto pistols and hard as it may seem to believe it has very little impact on accuracy. I carry a Sig Sauer P239 and if I cheat with readers and am in very good practice I can shoot 1.5 inch 5 shot groups at 50 feet with it using a sandbag rest. It also rattles nearly as loudly as a Castanet if there isn't a loaded magazine in the pistol. I've also put over 4000 rounds downrange without one single failure to feed, eject, or a jam of any description. What I've found to be most critical for accuracy with a semi auto is how snuggly the barrel engages into the slide. In the case of my P239 it's tight enough in this area that you cannot feel any movement of the barrel at either the front or rear lock when the barrel is seated in the slide. As a result the relationship between the barrel and the slide where the sights are mounted is very very consistent.

Yeah, more of an answer that you may have expected. The reason is very simple, just giving you a heads up on what is common for those new to handguns or "slow learners" like myself. Truth is that it is instinctual to flinch when hearing a loud noise and impact. We are programmed by evolution to do this and re-programing our responses takes PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE.

Tips.

First, do your best to relax throughout the process of firing each shot. Doing this will take practice and concentration but learning this skills will both make you a better shooter and you'll find you leave the range in a more relaxed state of mind.

Second, I would suggest that you purchase a good double action revolver like a S&W 686. Because IMO there is NOTHING you can shoot with that will develop and refine your trigger skills more than shooting in Double Action properly. BTW, that is with a complete smooth trigger stroke. When you first start shooting in double action you will find that pausing just before the trigger breaks gives you better accuracy. This is called "Staging" the trigger and it's Cheating. Because it's not how you would shoot in combat and it won't allow you to learn how to stroke a long trigger pull smoothly without pulling your sights offline. Start with a slow steady stroke and gradually increase the rate of pull as you gain skill.

Mine has no rattles and its new less than 200 down the pipe..

Sent from my C6530N using Tapatalk

I just had my SD9VE out and shook it. Well, like other semiautomatics of this type it rattled.

Where most of the rattles come from is loose magazine side walls in handhold, the slide which requires a gap on the rails to function properly, or from the barrel this firearm has---a tip style barrel.

This was with no loaded magazine and no round in chamber.

Not worried in the least, as it's normal for its design.

Once a (loaded) mag was inserted and a round chambered, no more rattles, as these took up all the loose tolerance fittings.

My SD9VE allows me to move the front or the rear of the slide left and right enough to cause a slight click. Also can move the front and rear sideways about the same distance.

Didn't measure the distance but it's probably about equal to the thickness of one or two business cards.

It looks like the barrel moves pretty much as the slide which, of course, carries the sights.

That sounds like a lot. However, not being the engineer w/the measurement plans for these models, I'd have a gunsmith take a look for measurements.

There's a minimum(tight) tolerance as well as a maximum(loose) tolerance that is built into these/other guns. If a gun was built on the tight tolerance, then more shooting is needed to help loosen up is required, but if the "on the fringe", but still within the outer/loose tolerances are incurred, well it don't take much more to get to the "outside of tolerance" to have a sloppy, but safe firearm that still shoots and only way to verify is having measurements taken to either rule out or needing to return to factory for replacement/rebuild components.

If I shake mine the mag will rattle. I wouldn't worry about it as I had a 1911 in Nam that doubled as a maraca.

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Music/Sports/Beer fan

Wow, does this fit me too. I think this problem is made worse with striker-fired pistols compared to DA/SA pistols which typically break in SA at a lighter weight. But, as noted, the good news is that this problem can be mastered with some practice and the right mindset.

As for rattles... both my SD9 and SD9VE have a sort of heavy rattle, side to side, when shook. That's not a problem; it is within the norm for many pistols, and the OP needn't worry about a little rattling.

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S&W Rover

Load a mag and insert it. Viola Rattle is gone. Then go shoot the thing and enjoy.

I purchased one because of the feel. The one I got the Barrel is so loose inside that no Matter what you will never get a tight grouping at 25yds.

I have several other handguns all shoot more consistently. (Rugersr9)
Even my hi-points shoot much much better and they don't get cheaper the. That.

This is the only gun ive ever purchased that I consider a COMPLETE waste of money. I have emailed S&W multiple times never got a response.

The barrel is so loose even using multiple lasers to sight it in ect to no avail there will always be a couple degrees of play with the barrel there is about 30 thousandths of space between where the barrel sits against the slide.

I purchased one because of the feel. The one I got the Barrel is so loose inside that no Matter what you will never get a tight grouping at 25yds.

I have several other handguns all shoot more consistently. (Rugersr9)
Even my hi-points shoot much much better and they don't get cheaper the. That.

This is the only gun ive ever purchased that I consider a COMPLETE waste of money. I have emailed S&W multiple times never got a response.

The barrel is so loose even using multiple lasers to sight it in ect to no avail there will always be a couple degrees of play with the barrel there is about 30 thousandths of space between where the barrel sits against the slide.

Have nearly 3K in my SD9VE !! It was tight as a drum when brand new, but repeated dis-assemblies & range sessions loosened it up. The slide rattles a bit with no mag in the gun, rattles a bit more with an unloaded mag IN the gun, doesn't rattle AT ALL with a loaded mag in the gun. Most semi-suto pistols made for self-defense will rattle a bit, even expensive ones. Generally, the only time you'll find a "silent" pistol is if you have a "match" or "target" pistol, manufactured with very close tolerances ! One probably wouldn't want to use such a pistol for self-defense in any case. Hope this helps. Enjoy shooting your new SD !!! MOST owners are very happy with their SD's (with a few exceptions) !!

I have shot my SD 40 with no issues and I put 100 rds thru it. Still rattles with or without mag but oh well. Hoping it's just a slide tolerance thing. Thanks for all the info.

Never heard any rattling whatsoever. This gun feels and sounds as solid as a rock.

Also, scooter123's post is awesome. It's spot on. The only thing I'd like to add is to breathe. I find that if I time my trigger press with exhaling while focusing on my front sight, I basically can't miss. It's enough of a distraction that you are able to be surprised by the click/bang. The important thing is to remember to follow through and hold the trigger. I always forget this. Doing that actually lets your front sight come back online faster, and as soon as it does, you can reset and fire again--on target. My only issue with the SD is that the reset is pretty far. You pretty much have to initiate your trigger reset while your front sight is still wiggling back into place. But you get the hang of it. Developing that flash sight picture becomes a reflex. Just never stop looking at that front sight once you've observed your target.

I bought a sd40ve new. The slide rattles new out of the box. Went back to the dealer and his display model rattles. I think they probably all rattle.

No rattle in my SD40VE. Very slight side-to-side movement, but otherwise pretty solid.

I sent my SD40VE in to S&W today, so it's not on-hand, but I don't ever recall any rattle in the slide.

Also, there is no better way to drive the gun community crazy than by calling a magazine a "clip."

kcorvo

Stop emailing and CALL THEM.

There is something wrong with YOUR gun, not the SDVE gun in general.

At 10 yards, my SD40VE stays in the bull.

The grouping widens at 20, but not by anything unusual.

Not the "best" handgun I own. Nothing beats a 1911. Browning was a genius! But, certainly a damn good gun. Especially for its price.

Doc

I just purchased a new SD40VE .. This is not my first S&W Sigma type pistol .. I feel they are a great value and just very dependable ..
I noticed a wee bit of play in the back of the slide but nuthin to give concern ..

I did have a annoying rattle in tbe magazine when fully loaded and inserted ..
I remembered reading about replaceing the magazine spring and follower with a Glock 22 spring and follower .. I have a few 22 mags laying around and presto in 3 minutes problem solved ..
Im going to check function this weekend .. I expect it function well ...
One thing I noticed is the SD spring was longer .. than the 22 spring ?

I also no nuthin about accuracy @ 25 yds . I practice at self defensive distances 1 yard to 12 yards. Most at 7 yds
I will give you a update ..

These are solid pistols

This. I belong to a gun club, but I still pay to go to a local indoor range to shoot my pistols, because the gun club only has a 25 yard pistol range. I guess if you're an expert pistol marksman, 25 yards is fun, but for anyone else it's just a waste of bullets.

My practice pistol distance is also 1 yard to 12 yards, mostly at 7 yards. Sometimes I go out to 15 yards, but not often. Maybe once I'm putting every shot through the same hole at those distances, I'll push it out further. But I'm not there yet.

0 a ****ty handgun s&w can suck it. After using three of my friends pistol scopes and sighting them in each on a different handgun in less then 7 rds. Tried each individually with the SD40VE
Cannot get a grouping less then 4moa at 25yds.
Springfield xd 9mm 1moa at 50yds
Ruger sr9c 1.25moa at 50yds
Hi-point .40 s&w 1.70moa at 50yds
Each held less then 1moa at 25yds with or without scopes.
The SD40VE I purchased.... can't get within 3moa at 10yds never mind 25yds
Not for lack of trying either.
Each shooter 4 of us the last day at the range put 50+rds through it using our own scopes/iron sights. To no avail....
a better pair of calipers measured the gap between barrel and frame at 55 thousands of an inch....
The Springfield had a .010 gap
Sr9 .012
Pretty sure I figured out why it's a *** poor quality control and ****ty customer service that doesn't respond.
I'll give them credit where it's due though the dam gun eats any and all ammo I've fd it about ten brands flawlessly no jams. Just 0 consistency in shot placement. Which is also a MUST

The photo doesn't do the gap justice. There is over 4 degrees of play at the end of the muzzle which is huge..

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My SD9VE is quite accurate. Shooting offhand at local range
on the rifle side, I can put better than 75% on the steel ("life
size" torso 'size') at the 100 yard line. Using bench to steady,
she'll put most rounds into a 5-gallon bucket on the berm (110-
115 yards).

If you held a rattling, loaded SD9VE to my head, I'd swag it
at 10 MOA accuracy.

My original 1994 Sigma is more accurate. i have no complaints
with with either pistol's accuracy.

Wowsers...1 moa at 50 yards, that means you're
getting a 1/2" group at 25 yards from that pistol, yah?
That's a pretty tight grouping gun. Impressive, *quite*
impressive, indeed.

The gap you're showing isn't "between barrel and frame".
You're showing gap between breech face (of slide, not
frame) and barrel hood, which is not a point of 'lock up'
in this design.

Four degrees of play between barrel and slide, in battery, sounds excessive. Did someone take a dremel to the front of the slide for 'reliability? What did you use to measure the angular variance between barrel and slide?

I did not read all of the replies, but it sounds like the striker. It's supposed to do that, if you move it back and forth.

With a 1911, we called it battle rattle! Had to have loose tolerance to provide function in dirty and sandy environments. Never go's away but is required for proper function and it won't hamper accuracy.