|
|
|
06-27-2016, 06:43 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 45
Likes: 45
Liked 21 Times in 13 Posts
|
|
Galloway recoil guide rod assm.
Eric from Galloway Precision has sent me a revised guide rod assm. for my SD9ve. The new one is 16#, they have removed the washer and the screw has a wider head, also the pad has been made thinner. the revised guide assembly now lets the slide retract the same as the stock guide rod. waiting to try it out
|
The Following 5 Users Like Post:
|
|
06-27-2016, 09:32 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: HOUSTON, TEXAS
Posts: 10,183
Likes: 7,176
Liked 14,376 Times in 5,412 Posts
|
|
Another reason to keep your firearms at factory standard. There are those who know what they are doing tinkering with their guns, but I suspect most are like me and would just assume metal parts are innately better than plastic parts. Not in my current skill set.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
06-28-2016, 02:48 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 45
Likes: 45
Liked 21 Times in 13 Posts
|
|
guide rod replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by HOUSTON RICK
Another reason to keep your firearms at factory standard. There are those who know what they are doing tinkering with their guns, but I suspect most are like me and would just assume metal parts are innately better than plastic parts. Not in my current skill set.
|
I take it that you don't even change your grips.
Last edited by TS7424; 06-28-2016 at 09:41 PM.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
06-28-2016, 06:57 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 55
Likes: 68
Liked 51 Times in 29 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by TS7424
Eric from Galloway Precision has sent me a revised guide rod assm. for my SD9ve. The new one is 16#, they have removed the washer and the screw has a wider head, also the pad has been made thinner. the revised guide assembly now lets the slide retract the same as the stock guide rod. waiting to try it out
|
When I last spoke to Eric, he said all of the issues he had encountered were with the SD40VE, and none reported with the SD9VE. It was being presumed that the SD9VE's were fine and the problem was only with the SD40VE.
So, I'm curious... Did the first aftermarket spring you had in the SD9VE stack prior to reaching the slide stop on the frame?
|
06-28-2016, 09:40 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 45
Likes: 45
Liked 21 Times in 13 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidnne
When I last spoke to Eric, he said all of the issues he had encountered were with the SD40VE, and none reported with the SD9VE. It was being presumed that the SD9VE's were fine and the problem was only with the SD40VE.
So, I'm curious... Did the first aftermarket spring you had in the SD9VE stack prior to reaching the slide stop on the frame?
|
Not that accurate but judging by the slide return when pulled back until it stopped then marking the barrel, doing this both the stock guide rod and the after market one, the slide looked like it was stopping just short of the slide stop.
I believe that the lower loads and smaller caliber are keeping the SD9's from having the same problem show up as much. but with time and more rounds who knows.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
06-28-2016, 10:16 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: HOUSTON, TEXAS
Posts: 10,183
Likes: 7,176
Liked 14,376 Times in 5,412 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by TS7424
I take it that you don't even change your grips.
|
Not if I like them and so far I do.
|
06-28-2016, 10:19 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 55
Likes: 68
Liked 51 Times in 29 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by TS7424
Not that accurate but judging by the slide return when pulled back until it stopped then marking the barrel, doing this both the stock guide rod and the after market one, the slide looked like it was stopping just short of the slide stop.
I believe that the lower loads and smaller caliber are keeping the SD9's from having the same problem show up as much. but with time and more rounds who knows.
|
I'd have to agree with that. If the aftermarket spring is stacking on the SD9VE, then it is still transferring the slide movement energy to the tabs. The force of the 9mm is less than the .40, so the issues have not presented themselves, YET.
I'd imagine in a couple years, as people get their round counts up, we're going to start hearing about the 9 having issues from people who are still using the old aftermarket springs.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
06-29-2016, 01:37 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 951
Likes: 682
Liked 301 Times in 210 Posts
|
|
Aftermarket RSA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidnne
I'd have to agree with that. If the aftermarket spring is stacking on the SD9VE, then it is still transferring the slide movement energy to the tabs. The force of the 9mm is less than the .40, so the issues have not presented themselves, YET.
I'd imagine in a couple years, as people get their round counts up, we're going to start hearing about the 9 having issues from people who are still using the old aftermarket springs.
|
It seems to me that everyone who has installed an aftermarket RSA would want to immediately want to check slide travel with and without the recoil spring and barrel installed.
(Don't just remove the spring for the test, getting the slide off with the barrel still in takes extra steps.)
|
The Following 5 Users Like Post:
|
|
06-29-2016, 07:05 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 45
Likes: 45
Liked 21 Times in 13 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by HOUSTON RICK
Another reason to keep your firearms at factory standard. There are those who know what they are doing tinkering with their guns, but I suspect most are like me and would just assume metal parts are innately better than plastic parts. Not in my current skill set.
|
this is why by testing and improving we are using cartridges instead of flintlocks
|
07-06-2016, 06:28 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 285
Likes: 122
Liked 106 Times in 68 Posts
|
|
I think I remember warning of this.
plastic guide rod replacement
#66
Bill
__________________
Remember the Alamo!
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
12-06-2016, 12:12 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 55
Likes: 68
Liked 51 Times in 29 Posts
|
|
I want to bump this thread, because this is a very important issue that people should be aware of.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
12-09-2016, 01:33 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 1 Post
|
|
Unfortunately, I found this thread after I already purchased the 21# galloway guide rod for my sd40 ve. Of course the photos and first hand accounts of the steel rods breaking off the frame tabs was worrisome but then also read that Galloway had slightly tweeked the design/spring to fix the problem. Still felt uneasy.....
so I sent an email to galloway to check on 2 things.
1. was the rod I purchased from amazon(to get free ship) guaranteed to be one of the "fixed" design rods directly from GP.
Yes they assured me only the new rods were shipping directly from them, even on amazon orders.
2. Was the problem taken seriously and specifically addressed so that SD40 owners can safely use the product without risking damage to the tabs. Here was the response on that...
"The problem wasn't with the guide rod, it was an anomaly in the pistol itself. We addressed the issue with the pistols themselves and changed the design of the guide rod to
accommodate any other tolerance anomalies in the pistol frame in the future."
I don't like parts of that answer to be honest. IMO the original problem WAS with the GP guide rod/spring assembly. If it wasnt, then even sd40ve's with stock guide rods would be experiencing damage/breakage of the frame tabs that are chipping or breaking off. However, he did mention the change in design to the guide rod which i see in [@]TS7424 's photo for sd9 guide rods.
When i get home I'm going to find a comparison pic for the sd40 rods to see if my supposedly new design rod is visibly different and then Ill try the test racking the slide with the stock spring and the 21# GP spring. If i understand right, the slide should stop in the exact same position for both correct? and if not then that's definitely a problem still?
I still decided to test the GP rod at the range and put about 80 rounds through the gun. Upon disassembly, I couldn't see any visual damage to the tabs although they're small to see but I am pretty convinced that I did find 2 very small shavings of black polymer on the steel butt of the guide rod so it worries me that it could have been hitting the frame/tabs but I cant be sure. I'm going test it at the range one more time with 50 rounds but this time get a magnifying glass and see if I can notice any evidence on the tabs or shavings on the rod end with the magnifying glass. I will take some before and after pics.
If anyone has any better feedback or proof that the sd40 rods have successfully been fixed please let me know as I want to like this product but definitely not with risk of frame breakage.
|
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
|
|
12-09-2016, 05:34 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 1,342
Likes: 1,255
Liked 1,134 Times in 521 Posts
|
|
This is a great thread. Worthwhile to make a summary of it available to all.
I sent an email to Galloway today and indicated I bought one of their guide rods a while ago, and was worried about it... they dispatched a new one to me, without hesitation, to replace the old one -- at no cost to me. I am impressed by their service and their attitude towards this whole thing, which I think is very professional. The problem can be defined as a small number of frames don't play well with their guide rods, and I guess you could blame the guide rods -- or the frames. (I've also seen some reports of factory plastic guide rods breaking, which may have a similar -- or a totally different -- cause).
Do the newly redesigned guide rods cause a problem? I suspect they are far less likely to do so. I'm going to run the new GP guide rod (I love shooting the SD; the darn thing is just plain reliable) for a while but keep an eye on the tabs inside the frame over time. I like to give all pistols a more stringent cleaning (e.g., the striker channel, inside mag wells, inside mags, etc.) about once a year or so, and I look for things like excessive wear or damage, so I don't think I'll be caught by surprise.
Added (3/7/17): Shortly after my post (above) I came to the conclusion I would return to the factory guide rod and spring, which I have done. I've only shot the SD9 a couple of times in the past three months, but the factory guide rod works well and I think I will stick with it.
__________________
S&W Rover
Last edited by S&W Rover; 03-07-2017 at 10:25 PM.
Reason: New information.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
12-09-2016, 06:05 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 2,444
Likes: 4,172
Liked 2,327 Times in 1,194 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by S&W Rover
The problem can be defined as a small number of frames don't play well with their guide rods, and I guess you could blame the guide rods -- or the frames.
|
No...it's not the frames or the 'guide rods', it's the springs that were on the rods.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
12-09-2016, 10:54 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 2,444
Likes: 4,172
Liked 2,327 Times in 1,194 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mullenAZ
When i get home <snip> Ill try the test racking the slide with the stock spring and the 21# GP spring. If i understand right, the slide should stop in the exact same position for both correct? and if not then that's definitely a problem still?
|
Yes, and yes...
There's one way to be 100% certain you don't have excessive 'spring stack length'.
1. Pull slide and set barrel and RSA aside.
2. Replace slide and press slide to full rearward travel
3. Eyeball slide from side, and put a fine pencil mark on
frame (put some masking tape there first if concerned).
That mark is the same place the slide must stop, when
a spring IS present.
4. Remove slide (pull forward against striker, pull trigger)
and reinstall barrel, RSA & slide.
5. Pull slide fully to rear. If slide edge doesn't come back far
enough to match pencil mark (even by a hair), the recoil spring
mount area will be seeing undue force during firing cycle.
If slide stops at same point, all's good, at least as far as
spring stackage goes.
Edit: the technical term for a spring's achieving an incompressible
status (ie 'as short as it can get when you squish it down and all
the coils are touching') is solid length. Excessive
solid length was the problem with the springs that caused frame
damage.
Last edited by Steve912; 03-07-2017 at 06:59 PM.
Reason: Add 'solid length' terminology.
|
The Following 4 Users Like Post:
|
|
03-07-2017, 06:24 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
|
I bought a Galloway rod for my SD9VE in early 2016 and didn't shoot much with it yet, but came across comments on YouTube videos about possible damage. I had a 20lb. rod and I chose a 19lb. replacement (20lb. was no longer offered), no questions asked.
I just did the spring/springless stack test mentioned in the post above and all seems to be uniform. I guess I'll keep shooting with it.
Last edited by Eric S.; 03-07-2017 at 06:25 PM.
|
03-07-2017, 10:34 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 1,342
Likes: 1,255
Liked 1,134 Times in 521 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve912
No...it's not the frames or the 'guide rods', it's the springs that were on the rods.
|
You are right -- the guide rods are fine, its the length of the stacked spring captive on the rod that can cause the serious problem with the frame.
The Galloway folks told me that many SDs are not affected, as there are variances in the dimensions inside the frames, which echoes what mullenAZ and others have been told.
Metal guide rods are attractive and stronger than plastic ones, and there will always be folks wanting to upgrade their SD pistol with metal guide rods - the questions comes up on this forum all the time! This thread captures the issues and potential concerns about the Galloway guide rods/springs -- and by doing so, represents how valuable this forum can be.
As one SD user, I finally decided to stick with the factory (plastic) guide rod, taking all of this in balance -- but I give Galloway credit for addressing the problem experienced with their earlier guide rods/springs.
__________________
S&W Rover
Last edited by S&W Rover; 03-07-2017 at 10:44 PM.
|
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
|
|
03-21-2017, 04:07 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 9
Likes: 13
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
|
|
I wish i'd seen all this earlier, i replaced my factory guide rod with the GP 20# about 100 rounds in and then only got about 500 more before this issue occurred. S&W just replaced my pistol (after 5 weeks in "pistol repair"). I think i'll be sending an email to GP as well. Thanks for all the info!!!
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
03-21-2017, 08:20 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 951
Likes: 682
Liked 301 Times in 210 Posts
|
|
Just a comment which may be inaccurate.
I think that in addition to the spring stacking issue, some folks have reported damage to the slide where the metal RSA engages at the front.
|
03-23-2017, 06:26 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Peoples Republic of Massa
Posts: 20
Likes: 1
Liked 10 Times in 5 Posts
|
|
Just to state the obvious. This may or may not be an issue just for SD's. Some may not know that the frames on Sigmas are basically the same as SD's and considerations should be contemplated before swapping out guide rods. I know this thread has made me think twice as I have returned the plastic GRA to my SW40VE. I am quite sure that the frame on my Sigma at this time is pretty much irreplaceable. Has anyone had issues with their Sigma frame failing after changing out guide rods?
|
03-24-2017, 07:10 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: MD
Posts: 84
Likes: 4
Liked 18 Times in 17 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffBreton
Just to state the obvious. This may or may not be an issue just for SD's. Some may not know that the frames on Sigmas are basically the same as SD's and considerations should be contemplated before swapping out guide rods. I know this thread has made me think twice as I have returned the plastic GRA to my SW40VE. I am quite sure that the frame on my Sigma at this time is pretty much irreplaceable. Has anyone had issues with their Sigma frame failing after changing out guide rods?
|
Yes, many years ago. If you can't find my post, I will find it tomorrow when I have access to a computer. I believe mine was an ISMI 22# spring.
Regards
Sorry, still looking.
In short, put an ISMI metal 22# spring in my 40E and soon after those 2 plastic tabs broke. The slide took a nose dive at the range.
S&W replaced the frame.. I put it back to stock and that's that.
Last edited by Coop de Ville; 03-25-2017 at 09:41 PM.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
03-30-2017, 12:07 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Southern California
Posts: 26
Likes: 57
Liked 14 Times in 7 Posts
|
|
This is a great thread!
Has anyone had any new updates from using the newest version Galloway recoil spring assembly sent out as replacements to people who emailed them for the SD9VE and SD40VE? Or even any feedback from people who purchased and have only owned the "newest version", and any issue or no signs of issues since being installed and shooting their gun?
It would be very helpful to know!
Also, it would be extremely helpful for me personally and i think many others, if ANYONE would be willing to post a how to" video on how to measure check and confirm if your gun with an aftermarket Galloway recoil spring assembly may have stacking issues compared to the factory recoil spring assembly. I'm just a big visual learner and my mind understands instruction much better visually, as im having trouble understanding Steve912's written instructions in his post above and quoted here:
""Quote:
Originally Posted by mullenAZ View Post:
When i get home Ill try the test racking the slide with the stock spring and the 21# GP spring. If i understand right, the slide should stop in the exact same position for both correct? and if not then that's definitely a problem still?"
Yes, and yes...
There's one way to be 100% certain you don't have excessive 'spring stack length'.
1. Pull slide and set barrel and RSA aside.
2. Replace slide and press slide to full rearward travel
3. Eyeball slide from side, and put a fine pencil mark on
frame (put some masking tape there first if concerned).
That mark is the same place the slide must stop, when
a spring IS present.
4. Remove slide (pull forward against striker, pull trigger)
and reinstall barrel, RSA & slide.
5. Pull slide fully to rear. If slide edge doesn't come back far
enough to match pencil mark (even by a hair), the recoil spring
mount area will be seeing undue force during firing cycle.
If slide stops at same point, all's good, at least as far as
spring stackage goes.
Edit: the technical term for a spring's achieving an incompressible
status (ie 'as short as it can get when you squish it down and all
the coils are touching') is solid length. Excessive
solid length was the problem with the springs that caused frame
damage.""
Last edited by jnbr19867; 03-30-2017 at 12:14 PM.
|
04-29-2017, 08:31 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ft Washington, PA
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidnne
I've run into another issue with my SD40VE. I've got around 1,600 rounds through it, and after my most recent trip to the range this week, the takedown lever stays depressed after putting the slide on. When I pull the trigger (dry-firing of course) the slide comes right off. If the slide is pulled back and cocked, then the slide stays on, because the trigger needs to be pulled in order to takedown the sdve. What appears to be happening, is the guide rod is hitting against the takedown lever and preventing the lever from coming back up and locking the slide on.
After examining, and comparing to a friend's sd40ve, I noticed that there are supposed to be tabs in front of the takedown lever, which apparently stop the guide rob from touching the takedown lever. On mine, those tabs have broken off.
I did install a Galloway stainless steel guide rod with a 20 lb spring, but I installed that at around the 200 round mark, so I've fired around 1,300 rounds with the Galloway guide rod installed.
I'm pretty sure my only option is to send it in to S&W for repair/replacement. But, I was curious if anyone else has experience this issue, and also to make others aware of the issue and to keep an eye on those tabs. They don't appear to be very sturdy and look to break off very easily.
I've included photos that show what I'm talking about :
|
I just got my SD40VE and the take down lever was so hard to pull down I got an extended lever to replace it. When I depressed the spring it stayed down and now I can't get it back up. I already replaced the trigger and springs with the Apex set so I'm sure no warranty. I have modified my Bodyguard and Glock so I know how. My question is has anyone replaced the spring for the slide lock? I don't look forward to removing the trigger and guts again. One other question, on my Glock the little tab on the slide lock lever faced the rear of the gun, is it the same on the SDVE. I got stainless guide rod and 20# spring but after reading these posts I think I will leave the stock one in.
Thanks for any help.
Last edited by patz; 04-29-2017 at 09:03 AM.
|
05-04-2017, 11:42 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Liked 99 Times in 33 Posts
|
|
does anyone have the email address for who to email at galloway if you purchased a RSA from them in the past
|
05-04-2017, 12:15 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ft Washington, PA
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
|
email address
Quote:
Originally Posted by catach22
does anyone have the email address for who to email at galloway if you purchased a RSA from them in the past
|
[email protected]
|
09-15-2017, 04:34 AM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 285
Likes: 122
Liked 106 Times in 68 Posts
|
|
Just an opinion, but I would suggest that people learn how a gun works before attempting any "gunsmithing"
Bill
__________________
Remember the Alamo!
|
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
|
|
11-16-2019, 12:31 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 2,444
Likes: 4,172
Liked 2,327 Times in 1,194 Posts
|
|
The easy fix for "aftermarket upgrades"...
SD9VE and SD40VE Recoil Guide Rod Assembly
Shipping is $3.99, up to $1000...
|
11-23-2019, 07:49 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 7,684
Liked 7,388 Times in 2,512 Posts
|
|
I've said it before and I'll say it again, I'll never understand the rationality behind second-guessing manufacturers specifications, nor attempting to improve on them without any experience whatsoever in gunsmithing.
Honestly, it's a wonder how the Sigma got such a bad reputation for lacking in reliability long after the actual issues had been addressed by Smith & Wesson when so many folks opted to play Kitchen Gunsmith by snipping springs, grinding down parts in the trigger assembly, and outright replacing critical factory parts with aftermarket parts in attempt to improve upon it.
I mean, really... Do you think that these aftermarket parts manufactures actually thoroughly test their parts prior to releasing them commercially, especially when they often are released hot on the heels of the firearms themselves? Evidently they don't, considering just how often you see folks complaining about abnormal wear or unreliability after said parts have been installed, not to mention how often these manufacturers come out with later itterations which have been redesigned to address issues which were discovered on earlier models.
They're a solution in search of a problem, preying on demonstrably false beliefs like polymer not being strong enough to hold up to extended use, and borderline paranoia such as that even reputable corporations like Smith & Wesson would outfit their products with inferior parts just to save a few dollars.
The Sigma Series (which includes the improved 4th generation SD models, formerly known in-house as the "Sigma Delta" models) wasn't designed for use with metal guide rods, so attempting to fit your Sigma with an aftermarket metal guide rod in order to improve upon the longevity of such a cheap, easily replaceable part which is covered by a Lifetime Warranty only results in accelerated wear on the frame, and voids the Warranty in the process.
So yeah, instead of trying to improve on the factory guide rod to make it last longer by replacing it with an aftermarket guide rod, destroying your gun in the process, and making a fool of yourself by attempting to argue that it's somehow S&W's fault afterwards, why not just replace the guide rod every 5000 rounds or whenever it starts to look ragged with another factory guide rod, courtesy of Smith & Wesson, by simply contacting them requesting a replacement covered under the warranty?
__________________
Shooting Comfort is bilateral.
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
11-23-2019, 08:46 PM
|
|
Moderator
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 26,909
Likes: 991
Liked 19,033 Times in 9,313 Posts
|
|
Guys, the OP started this thread about 3 1/2 years ago and hasn't been back.
__________________
Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220
|
11-24-2019, 05:20 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 2,444
Likes: 4,172
Liked 2,327 Times in 1,194 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by murphydog
Guys, the OP started this thread about 3 1/2 years ago and hasn't been back.
|
Nothing wrong with keeping it around.
These facts remain true:
-- S&W designs parts to work together (successfully,
usually) as a system;
--that S&W makes design changes from time to time (which
aftermarket parts peddlers may not be aware of),
--that S&W will make-good on any of it's parts,
if they do turn out problematic,
--and aftermarket parts manufacturers generally don't
have design & engineering capabilities on par with S&W,
or the plethora of other brands they sell parts for.
And finally--just because something is changeable, doesn't
in and of itself, mean that changing it, is a good idea.
|
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
|
|
11-24-2019, 05:57 PM
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 10,141
Liked 10,127 Times in 4,799 Posts
|
|
Congrats to Steve912. In your last post you’ve said basically what I’ve been thinking for years - but didn’t want to hurt anyone’s “feelings.”
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
01-22-2020, 01:01 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 1,342
Likes: 1,255
Liked 1,134 Times in 521 Posts
|
|
I love to tinker a bit with the pistols I own, and it usually turns out well. And I learn in the process. I'm in this thread way back there and my final comment was that I abandoned the aftermarket recoil spring assembly (aka guide rod with captive spring). I remain convinced that the stock recoil spring assembly is the best... And coincidentally the cheapest.
__________________
S&W Rover
Last edited by S&W Rover; 01-22-2020 at 01:03 AM.
|
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
|
|
06-24-2021, 03:07 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 55
Likes: 68
Liked 51 Times in 29 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by murphydog
Guys, the OP started this thread about 3 1/2 years ago and hasn't been back.
|
Yeah... so?
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
06-24-2021, 10:56 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 2,444
Likes: 4,172
Liked 2,327 Times in 1,194 Posts
|
|
It's technical information pertaining to a specific problem induced by an
aftermarket part; there's no "expiration date" on it's validity.
It's also a caveat to new gun owners, that rushing to install "upgrades"
isn't an inherently a good idea.
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|