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Old 05-13-2018, 08:47 AM
3hounds 3hounds is offline
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Default Trigger play, Trigger bar play

Ok, Man I hate the side to side play of these 2 parts in this gun so much left to right slop.

I'm going to try to take most of it out with plastic or nylon washers added on trigger pin and trigger bar pin which should be fun ?

Maybe once I really get analyzing it I'll come up with something different ?

I took out all the over travel on the trigger and the take up on the trigger bar before it engages the sear parts, about 1/32 of an inch. Now when I move the trigger the sear immediately moves.

Even the apex trigger has side to side movement, wish they made a metal one for this gun ?

I'll post back and let ya know what I did & if it helped or not ?

Might be a week at the most have to re epoxy some stuff and let that harden good first.
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Old 05-14-2018, 11:27 PM
3hounds 3hounds is offline
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Well I've analyzed the PLASTIC TRIGGER & the very small pins that hold the hinged part and trigger bar to the trigger. I've come to realize even if I do put washers to take up the slack the PLASTIC IS SO FLIMSY (THIN) IT WON'T MATTER ?

The only washer I added was to the trigger pin to take up some side to side play, it helped some but the trigger is just to thin and flimsy to really do anything with it ?

I might try to make an aluminum one with tighter tolerances ? I don't even know if it's worth it with this gun ? It will be a lot of machining and filing.

I have taken up the trigger bar to sear slack and over travel with devcon epoxy placed in certain places.

Also bedded the rear sear block with devcon epoxy and it's much tighter. Filled in the front of frame with devcon epoxy right under the barrel and recoil spring assembly. It made the frame a HECK OF ALOT STIFFER.

Might try to bed the barrel lock up block because it moves slightly in these plactic poly guns ?

I retired at 53 and have a lot of time on my hands as you can tell LOL.

3out
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Old 05-15-2018, 09:49 PM
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S&W Rover S&W Rover is offline
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There comes a time with the SD-family where there is not much more you can do, whereas the M&Ps and Glocks have literally hundreds of options for customizing them. But, for a lot of folks the relatively cheap SD's are where they got started with pistols, and they can experiment and learn stuff.

You can see with the SD how simple striker mechanisms are (and the SD is engineered a lot like the Glock, which S&W famously copied). I think your washers may be tightening up a design that was designed around loose tolerances. Basically, a striker is a spring-loaded pin with a catch that releases it at a certain point in the travel of the trigger bar, and it isn't usually precise. It is robust and just fine for practical shooting but not preferred for classic target shooting (where a light and replicable trigger action is desired).

A purist could argue that the SD's should be used unchanged, just the way they come out of the box, to maintain their utility in relation to their cost, e.g., their value. Yet some things can be done to make them better shooters, principally adding the Apex trigger and maybe new sights. Let us know how the washers work out and maybe add some pics.
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Old 05-15-2018, 10:48 PM
Steve912 Steve912 is offline
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I haven't noticed much wiggle/play on my SD9VE trigger.
I did lop off a pencil eraser, sharpied it black, and glued
it to frame behind trigger, for an overtravel stop. With that
and smoothing up sear & striker block, it's a pretty nice
trigger.
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Old 05-15-2018, 11:51 PM
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JAREDSHS JAREDSHS is offline
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I for one will leave my SD9VE just as it came from the factory. I just came from my back yard shooting spot after practicing with a 50 round box of Winchester forged-115 gr. fmj, steel cased $8.00/ box practice ammo—put all 50 rounds on a
10 inch paper plate at 10 yards(30 feet) no miss feeds, no jams, nothing but 50 holes in a paper plate, and a very dirty SD. This not a target pistol, it is a save your life weapon. I trust mine completely.
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:56 PM
3hounds 3hounds is offline
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Like I said have a lot of time on my hands ? Yes not much in aftermarket parts AT ALL ? I was given an Apex Trigger and it did make an improvement but I actually would not pay that much for a plastic trigger.

Regarding the striker assembly, I chamfered the plastic cups, had burrs on them, also polished the whole striker, removed all tooling marks on face then polished. One thing you have to watch out for when assembling the striker, make sure the spring end is not lined up with one of the plastic cup ends, it will push it sideways then drag on the plastic sleeve.

Pretty much everything I'm doing really doesn't cost much just my time, devcon epoxy, sand paper.

When you take the trigger bar out it moves about 3/8's of an inch side to side, it pushed out hard on the side of the frame when I got the gun. I've fixed that and it's much smoother lighter pull. Trigger bar didn't push really straight back but sideways some ?

I have other pistols and revolvers but have not messed with them, all S&W. This gun is fun to try to make it better than it was out of the box with just filing, polishing adding epoxy here & there.

It's a heck of a lot better than when I got it much smoother, more accurate and fits my hand better with all the dremel work on the frame.

I'll see about pics. if I could find my good camera and figure out how to post them ?

3 out
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:40 PM
Steve912 Steve912 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3hounds View Post
L
Pretty much everything I'm doing really doesn't cost much just my time, devcon epoxy, sand paper.

I have other pistols and revolvers but have not messed with them, all S&W. This gun is fun to try to make it better than it was out of the box with just filing, polishing adding epoxy here & there.
You've found some of the "price point" measures, taken to reduce
labor ($$$) to ensure optimum fitting/function, used to put the
product out the door at the planned price-point.

That's one of the fun aspects of lower-priced stuff. There's always
some fairly easy fit & finish work that can be accomplished,
if you have the know-how to identify and perform it.

BTW, while the 15 minute epoxy is convenient, slow-set stuff
like J-B is more durable and sands/files better.
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Old 05-18-2018, 07:37 AM
3hounds 3hounds is offline
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Yes Sir Steve I have, don't know if you have ever done any work on a Hi-Point but IT BE ALOT WORSE. A lot of honing, sanding, polishing, WOW.

SEE YOU GET IT ( FUN ) by doing some clean up work on these lower priced guns to make them better, not every gun is the same. As you said, IF U HAVE THE KNOW HOW, KNOW WHAT TO DO & WHERE. It's a TOTALLY DIFFERENT GUN & STILL SAFE.

About the epoxy, I don't buy the 15 minute epoxy, there is many kinds of devcon, the stuff I use sets up in about 6 hrs. cures in 24 or so ? You can sand it, file it, drill it, thread it, mold it ect...

I bed rifles with it, the J-B weld shrinks too much for that but it is GREAT STUFF.
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