Recently, the guide rod popped out of the assembly, the spring pulling away from the rod when reassembling the slide. Decided on and purchased a new stainless steel 20# assembly from Centennial Defense Systems. Is there a problem changing out the original factory assembly for this new one?

Some say they have had no problems with stainless others say battered up the frame rails.I have an extra RSA bought from Midway USA $8.00

I've owned several SDVE pistols, and I bought a stainless steel RSA for them. I didn't have any problems with mine, but I read a number of reports of frame battering. I don't own a SDVE pistol now, but if I did, I'd just stick with the OEM assembly. In fact, if you want a spare, S&W will probably send you one for free (they did for my M&P pistols.)

the problem with the steel guide rods was that the manufacturer was useing the wrong spring creating spring stack and transfering force to the thin tabs in front of the slide retaining latch. Then they tried to blame it on s&w for "variances" in frame dimensions. Yeah... sure. The was no battering of frame rails just tab breakage from a spring that was too long. As long as you have the correct spring there is no issue and the steel guide rod is a benefit as the s&w plastic rod setup is a bit fragile in the long term and does let go sometimes. I have even had brand new ones disassemble themselves in storage. They are fragile compared to the rest of the gun.

The flat springs themselves last a long time and a lot of rounds. Far more than the plastic guide rod. This has always been an issue with the sigma line. As excellent as they are they do benefit from some tweeking and well made aftermarket parts.

Just make sure to check that the recoil spring does not stack solid before you slide impacts the frame. Wolff gunsprings has made steel guide rods since the since sigma hit the market and there was never a problem other than the fact that you couldnt use factory s&w flat springs. Not really a problem though you just have to use traditional recoil springs.

Contact S&W. They will send you a new guide rod, FREE of charge.

This forum had a long and enlightening thread on metal guide rods a while ago. The Galloway Precision Gide rods were the ones that experienced the problems, and that company went to some length to test their product and share what they learned - as well as taking back any guide rods customers wanted to return. (I just looked at the Galloway Precision web page, and they have some good products for SDs - like their wider takedown lever - but they no longer stock the SD metal guide rods).

I believe Dangerman has summed the situation with metal guide rods well.

I’ve always been a fan of metal guide rods, although I admit they really don’t do much functionally for a pistol. But I’m currently using a new plastic factory guide rod and spring assembly on my SD9 after removing and returning a metal one to Galloway. (If you break a factory guide rod - and my original one self-destructed - you can get a free one from S&W by sending the broken one to Springfield, Mass., and asking for a replacement. Or just give them a call).

Best advice I can think of is this: if you want a metal guide rod, go for it, but check its compressed dimensions going in, and examine the frame for impacts/ battering periodically.

__________________
S&W Rover

My best recommendation is to buy a couple of spares of the factory RSA. I keep one in my range bag and that’s the only place it gets used, at the range. When I get to the range it goes into my pistol, and when I’m ready to leave I replace it with the carry Recoil Spring Assembly that I tested with 200 rounds. This way the range RSA gets all of the wear and tear, and I have a reliable, proven RSA for carry. I prefer not to take any chances with non-OEM parts. The only mods I make to my SD9VE’s are to change out the factory polymer rear sight for a factory steel M&P rear. Everything else stays box stock. I actually like the factory trigger as is. It smoothed up with use and is a hair under 7# now.

BestRegards,
ADP3

I like the metal guide rods, I'm a reloader & can tune my guide rod to certain loads by changing springs. I own the .40 though, it's definitely tougher on the 9mm frame.

yup. Its nice to be able to change out springs. It also stinks when the factory guide rod gives way and you dont,have a spare handy. S&W should have designed it so if it did give way it could still be functional. If the back end was solid you could still put it in the pistol and it would work. I kind of wish there was an aftermarket replacement of just a standard non contained guide rod similar to more traditional pistols but still used the factory oem spring. I actually prefer the wolff guide rod setup because there are lots of different spring weights. Its non capsulated though and uses traditional springs.

hi















hi! I am new to the forum but not S&W pistols. I carried an m&p 9 for many years as a cop and loved it.
I now have an sp9ve which I like. but I am now over 73 and now recoil sensitive because of surgeries. I have used the NDZ 15lb recoil spring assembly but just a tad too much recoil with the target loads that will function. NDZ does not make a lighter GR assembly.

is there a way to use a lighter recoil spring available that will still cycle with target loads?

thanks george t