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Old 07-17-2011, 08:39 AM
alecat alecat is offline
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I'm sure this has been asked before. I got a 5906 from a local shop and it appears someone tried to polish it. what do i have to do to get it back to the way it supost to look?
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Old 07-17-2011, 12:00 PM
Swabby Swabby is offline
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Different guys will suggest different things, scotchbrite pads, etc. I have had really good luck refinishing 3rd Gen Smith stainless parts with very fine glass bead, such as Brownells 270+ glass bead. If you wanted a more matte finish, but not rough, bead blast with 60-80 first, then finish with the finer stuff. You can also get different finishes with more or less PSI. With bead blasting, however, you need to completely detail strip the entire gun. The glass bead gets everywhere. Everything then needs to be super clean before re-assembly. Also, don't blast stainless or aluminum in a friend's automotive cabinet. You can embed old carbon steel into your stainless, which will cause it to possibly rust. Best bet would be to go to Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, etc and purchase a $100 mini-cabinet just for this project. Once you get it down to a science, you'll want to do all your small parts, magazines, you'll want to be blasting everything. Good luck.
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:32 AM
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Thank you I was thinking it would need to be blasted.
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:42 AM
Icopy1 Icopy1 is offline
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If you don't want to do it yourself, you can send it to S&W. They will bead blast it for a reasonable cost.
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Old 07-22-2011, 10:32 AM
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Swabby is spot on. I have a beadblast cabinet and and have used other media, but now use Brownells 270+ glass beads, almost exclusively. I have done several stainless guns, and they come out looking, literally, like new. His advice on detail stripping prior, and insuring parts are super clean before reassembly, is also absolutely correct...
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Old 07-22-2011, 11:00 AM
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I have found that using a gun cleaner that gets into the pores of the metal, like Hoppes Elite, is the best thing to use after blasting. It helps get out even the smallest grit, so your gun doesn't have that "crunchy" feel after re-assembly. After getting the piece out of the cabinet, I blow it off with the air hose thoroughly. I apply the cleaner liberally, then scrub gently with a toothbrush. I then rinse the parts under super hot tap water and immediately blow it dry with the air hose. The part comes out squeaky clean and ready to be lubricated with your favorite gun oil/preservative. A lot of guys us the Break Free products, but I like Birchwood Casey Barricade and Syn. Gun Oil. Make sure to get into all the blind holes in your frame and slide when cleaning. Media from the blast cabinet cakes in there when blasting. Use a toothpick or gun cleaning pick to clean the holes when you are scrubbing the rest of the part. Take your time and it will turn out great. I like to do projects like this when I have an entire day to "tinker". Good luck.
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