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View Poll Results: How often do you clean your striker pin channel?
Never 15 71.43%
After every range trip 0 0%
50-100 rounds 0 0%
101-200 rounds 0 0%
200-400 rounds 1 4.76%
400-600 rounds 3 14.29%
Other 2 9.52%
Voters: 21. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 05-04-2010, 01:32 AM
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Default How often do you clean your striker pin channel?

I have fired about 250 rounds or so through my SW40VE, and i have never done more than field strip it or remove the striker fire assembly where the springs are to clean.

My question is how often do you guys remove the firing pin to clean the striker pin channel?
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Old 05-04-2010, 01:40 AM
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It is not necessary to do more than field strip the Sigma to clean it, regardless of the number of rounds, provided you don't put oil or grease where it does not belong, like the striker channel.
The striker is "dry lubed" by the synthetic sleeve.
Unless you know the correct procedure (much like a Glock) you will damage the parts and/or launch the little extractor spring.
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Old 05-04-2010, 01:41 AM
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Thanks for the info, i read this article

Guerrilla Gunsmith-----Sigma Review

and if you scroll all the way almost down to the bottom i noticed how dirty the channel was after firing so many rounds through it and i wondered if anyone ever takes them apart to clean.
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Old 05-04-2010, 01:52 AM
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[QUOTE i noticed how dirty the channel was after firing so many rounds through it and i wondered if anyone ever takes them apart to clean.[/QUOTE]

Did you read this part of your referenced "gunsmith" article:
Quote:
While stripping the slide, a part of the gun (all plastic pieces are white on the Sigma as opposed to the black on the Glock) a piece of the striker assembly shot out across my basement someplace. After more than a half hour of looking with no success
A blast of CRC dry silicone will clean that out and not leave sticky residue to catch more.
Unless you know exactly how to do it, I wouldn't try to strip the Sigma slide. I have two SW9VE trainers with tens of thousands of rounds fired and the slides never stripped. I traded off an old Gray one I bought new just because people kept asking about the color, and I never stripped the slide on it either. I have one Sigma that I have taken all the way apart, and tried all the known "improvements." Most aren't.

In case you see them, I also recommend you don't try the reduced power striker spring either. It will cause misfires.

Last edited by OKFC05; 05-04-2010 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 05-04-2010, 02:29 AM
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I already did my research on the reduce power springs and noted that many people had bad primer strikes so thats why i did the pigtail spring removal, because from what i read all it does it help reset the trigger after firing +p ammo.


As far as using the dry silicone to remove the build up how exactly would you go about doing it and where would i spray to and from?

Does it require dry time?



Also yes i noted that the article has the writer losing the piece from his gun, which is namely why i even asked about it before i decided to try to take it apart without any advice.
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Old 05-04-2010, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 901-Memphis View Post
As far as using the dry silicone to remove the build up how exactly would you go about doing it and where would i spray to and from?

Does it require dry time?
It helps if you clean the gun within a day or so of shooting before all that fluffy fouling turns to stone.
Field strip per manual.

CRC Silicone spray, cotton cloth, old tooth brush, Q-tips.
Spray the silicone so it washes the loose stuff out of the gun, not down into the crevices. Wipe and brush to remove stubborn stuff. Spray again and let it run out.
Same treatment for the synthetic linkage in the frame.
Disassemble magazines, spray, wipe dry, and reassemble.


By the time you clean the barrel and grooves on the slide, the silicone propellant (Heptane, or white gas) will be gone. Powder solvent, bore brush, patches. I bent (boiling water) and ground the end of an old toothbrush to fit the grooves in the slide.

Lightly lube frame points, rub areas on barrel (I use action grease) and put a drop of Remoil on the sear contact surface.

Assemble Sigma. Elapsed time: 10 to 15 minutes.

Hope these tips are of use to you.

Last edited by OKFC05; 05-04-2010 at 02:52 AM.
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Old 05-04-2010, 03:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OKFC05 View Post
It helps if you clean the gun within a day or so of shooting before all that fluffy fouling turns to stone.
Field strip per manual.

CRC Silicone spray, cotton cloth, old tooth brush, Q-tips.
Spray the silicone so it washes the loose stuff out of the gun, not down into the crevices. Wipe and brush to remove stubborn stuff. Spray again and let it run out.
Same treatment for the synthetic linkage in the frame.
Disassemble magazines, spray, wipe dry, and reassemble.


By the time you clean the barrel and grooves on the slide, the silicone propellant (Heptane, or white gas) will be gone. Powder solvent, bore brush, patches. I bent (boiling water) and ground the end of an old toothbrush to fit the grooves in the slide.

Lightly lube frame points, rub areas on barrel (I use action grease) and put a drop of Remoil on the sear contact surface.

Assemble Sigma. Elapsed time: 10 to 15 minutes.

Hope these tips are of use to you.

So you can oil more than the 4 points and the barrel?

Where exactly in that picture if anywhere is the "sear contact surface"?
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Old 05-04-2010, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 901-Memphis View Post
Where exactly in that picture if anywhere is the "sear contact surface"?
Right there! (Did you see me point? )

The sear contact surface is the hook on the top of the sear that rubs on the striker hook to retract/fire the striker. It is metal-to-metal contact and just a little drop will do it. Don't pour oil down over the whole sear.

I suspect S&W does not put this in their manual because you really don't want oil down in the frame.
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Old 05-04-2010, 03:17 AM
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That would be the little hook that gets in the way of removing the striker fire assembly when i was trying to do the spring work earlier. Its a pain in the but to get around without bending it.

I must be oiling a little too heavy because when i pulled my striker fire assembly out there was a little oil behind it where i could not see with the assembly installed. Is that normal? I am very cautious usually when i oil and i only use the smallest drop of my M-Pro 7 i can try.

Still curious as to how it got down in there when i am so sparing with it.
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Old 05-04-2010, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 901-Memphis View Post
That would be the little hook that gets in the way of removing the striker fire assembly when i was trying to do the spring work earlier. Its a pain in the but to get around without bending it.
No, it is the sear itself where it contacts the striker.
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Old 05-04-2010, 03:27 PM
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I generally inspect and clean the striker/firing pin channels on my 'working pistols' either annually or approx every thousand rounds. I don't use spray agents to clean these areas, but disassemble the slides, remove the striker assemblies or firing pins and then clean and dry the parts and the channel areas.

Of course, I take care not to introduce any solvent/CLP to that area during cleaning or lubrication in the first place. Using an excessive amount of either liquid agent can introduce the opportunity for it to migrate into the striker/firing pin channel (or under the extractor, for that matter).

This regiment might vary a bit depending on the conditions to which the pistols are exposed for shooting or carry, though.
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Old 05-04-2010, 11:07 PM
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About every 500 rounds.
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Old 05-05-2010, 03:30 AM
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So does anyone else clean it with other products? I am guessing solvents are a no no in that area.
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extractor, fouling, glock, gunsmith, primer, scroll, sigma, solvent, sw40ve, sw9ve

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