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Old 11-27-2010, 03:07 PM
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Default Thinking of Duracoating 908 slide

I have already bought the materials to Duracoat the slide but I'm not ready to jump in yet. It is suggested that the metal be bead balsted prior to appliying the Duracoat to give the surface some bite for the paint to stick. The surface of the slide is already pretty rough and un-polished. Would this be enough bite for the paint? Also, if I remove the plastic sights will I be able to reinstall them? I guess I can just leave the sights on and mask them but am worried that the degreaser will melt them.
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Old 11-27-2010, 05:22 PM
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I have never used duracoat but I have used baking lacquer a few times. The amount of prep work always equated to the quality of the finished product. So I would definitely prep the slide as much as possible. Although I have has success with varying levels of steel wool versus bead blasting.

Since the plastic sights are dovetailed and not pinned I am sure they can be removed and reinstalled. I took a set off a SW9VE to install metal night sights and they looked undamaged after they were removed.
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Old 11-27-2010, 06:23 PM
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Why don't you just call Duracoat? I met the officers of this company at the last SHOT show and they seemed to be very helpful. I had a Model 3913 slide Duracoated about 3 years ago by a friend that was getting into this process. I was traveling when he did the job so didn't see how he treated the stainless steel slide before the coating. I carry this handgun everyday concealed. It is just now starting to show a little wear on the muzzle and a couple of other sharp shoulders. ....... Big Cholla
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:27 AM
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Do NOT "glass bead-blast" per DuraCoat's instructions. It leaves a "polished" surface. If you want to blast the slide (not necessary according to DC) use alum oxide powder. If you suspect the previous surface may have been glass-blasted, or there are scratches, etc. that will show through, then you might have it redone with the AL Oxide.

I've DuraCoated two CZ-82 that also have the "blasted" finish and both turned out okay. The secret is entirely the prep. I cannot emphasis that enough. I had a couple of issues (peeling) on the first one due to insufficient prep. Degrease, sand as needed wipe down--DO NOT re-degrease. Once that was corrected, the paint stuck well to both rough and polished surfaces.

Carefully tape the dovetail surfaces and you'll be fine. It tedious work using an Exacto knife or razor blade, but will preserve the machined surfaces. The green painters tape will prevent the paint from seeping underneath.

If you make mistakes (drips, runs, etc.) don't panic. Common paint remover takes DC right off. I'd never used an airbrush, so my first attempt was a bit messy.

Definitely let the finish cure. I set my -82 aside for 2 mos afterwards. No issues with the finish after several range outings.

If you don't have the equipment (I didn't) or painting skills (me neither) or simply don't want to mess it up, there are many places out there that will do it for you at a reasonable cost.

Any questions, PM me.

Formerly from Spokane.
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Old 11-28-2010, 03:39 PM
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SMSgt,

Thank you for the detailed response. The surface of th slide already has that matt surface of an aluminum oxide blast. I think the surface will be fine. I hae plenty of experience with an airbrush as I have been a model builder for decades . I had heard about not degreasing a second time from another source. I will just use compressed air before I paint.

Do you mask off the underside of the slide? I plan to remove the safety lever and firing pin but leave the extractor on.
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Old 11-28-2010, 06:09 PM
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I've never duracoated a firearm, but I have duracoated a paintball gun. I degreased it and applied the duracoat right over the anodize (per the recommendation).

After three days of use, the duracoat was peeling off in high-wear areas such as the bottom of the trigger guard. After a season of use, about 25% of the finish has come off.

Prep work is extremely important. Media blasting should be though of as a requirement, along with serious degreasing. You may also want to handle all of the parts with gloves after cleaning.

Also, there are some nasty fumes involved in the duracoating. It won't kill you, but even with good ventelation you want to wait several hours after duracoating before you operate heavy machinery/drive/etc.. A respirator would be highly recommended. I ended up using two fans (one going out a window, the other blowing between my face and the airbrush) and the fumes were still screwing with me.

I've got some pictures of my duracoat experience at Picasa Web Albums - Iram - Duracoating.

If this gun is going to get serious competition/carry use, I'd look for something far more durable.
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Old 11-30-2010, 09:34 PM
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I know you said you have already bought the DC but I would vote for CereKote instead. A far superior product based on my experience which has been similar to Iram's. The DC just would not hold up in high wear areas for some military applications I have seen while the CereKote has so far.
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alde View Post
SMSgt,
Do you mask off the underside of the slide? I plan to remove the safety lever and firing pin but leave the extractor on.
I took great care on the first slide to mask the slide rail tracks and anywhere else I didn't want DC, or thought it might interfere. On the second slide I didn't tape as completely, and where the DC got on the rails, it quickly wore off after reassembling the slide and working the action.

I removed the extractor on both slides I refinished, but the DC isn't thick, and as long as your extractor isn't a close tolerance fit, you'll probably be okay. The only concern I might have is there may be oil/grease that extrudes out upon the slide surface around it.

I wasn't real sure how thick of a coat to apply; you'll probably have a better idea with your experience. I didn't have any issues with the DC causing binding, etc., afterwards.

I sprayed the underside also; it's just more protection and avoids having those tiny areas of unfinished surface showing.

Highly polished areas will need to be scuffed up first. (1200-1500 grit?) I blame the peeling I had on my prep, not the product. The second application worked fine, as did the second slide. I was truly learning as I went. If you're experienced with the airbrush it should work out well. Projects I undertake generally end up looking like I did them. Nuff said. The DuraCoat turned out better than I expected (and hoped).

Of course, normal ventilation precautions should be used.

Last edited by SMSgt; 12-01-2010 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 12-01-2010, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S&W247 View Post
I know you said you have already bought the DC but I would vote for CereKote instead. A far superior product based on my experience which has been similar to Iram's. The DC just would not hold up in high wear areas for some military applications I have seen while the CereKote has so far.
Do you know if Cerekote is available in small quantities for home refinishing? I'd love to give it a try.
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Old 12-01-2010, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iram View Post
Do you know if Cerekote is available in small quantities for home refinishing? I'd love to give it a try.
Brownells sells Cerekote. I may go that way and skip the Duracoat. I may try the Duracoat on an old knife or something before I decide though.

Thanks to all for the help and suggestions.
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:00 PM
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I think the 908 slide design is like my 915 (both are 3rd Gen). Does dura-coat require oven curing? If not, I would mask the rear sight instead of removing it. If curing in the oven then all internal slide parts must be considered.

The firing pin block plunger and spring are captured by the rear sight. You can see the plunger from bottom of the slide. Removing the rear sight will "liberate" these parts. Make sure that the coating does not get into the tunnel. Also avoid extractor channel and the firing pin area.

After curing reinsert plunger, then spring from top of slide, remount sight in dovetail (be mindful of the spring when doing this).

Check that plunger can be depressed from bottom of slide and interracts properly to permit or block movement of the firing pin.

It is imperative to function check your refinished / reassembled gun. Any paint residue inside or at outer edge of plunger can affect ignition reliability. Excess paint can affect extractor function.

Good luck, and please post PICTURES when you're done,
Dan
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:17 PM
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Dan,

Duracoat does not require oven cure. I was planning to just mask the sights, the extractor channel and such and remove the safety lever and mask the bearing surfaces. All the work will be in the prep and masking.

I will post pictures when it's done.
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Old 12-02-2010, 06:57 AM
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Let me add some pictures of my experience with duracoat. Everyone always post pictures of guns right after they are coated, never what the results look like a couple years later.

You can find an album showing most of the application process at Picasa Web Album. This was all anodized aluminum that was coated. Most of those pictures have explanations, along with a few pictures at the bottom of it immediately after being coated. It was degreased and then sprayed directly over the anodizing (per the instructions at http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com).

After using it every weekend for a couple months, the finish started to come off:



After a year of use (followed by a year in storage), a significant amount of the finish is gone. I haven't looked at this in almost a year, but it appears that the finish on the lower tube is actually shrinking and crinkling up:



For a "safe queen" the stuff would be fine, but for a carry/competition gun, I'd expect to be refinishing it often.
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:35 AM
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It's all in the prep. All surfaces should be lightly scuffed prior to applying. It's been a year since I did my CZ-82, several trips to the range and cleanings (no safe queen, but not an EDC), and it doesn't exhibit any of the chipping, crinkling symptoms (other than my first ill-prepared application).
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