Quote:
Originally Posted by wowsplat
Is there anyway of figuring out which spring goes where on the 6906? Say if i pulled out all the springs on my 6906 and threw them away, then i bought a wolf service pak to replace them. How would i know where each spring goes? Beside the obvious recoil, main and firing pin springs....
|
You threw away all of the springs? As you're probably realizing, keeping the existing spring as a reference when you go to replace it can be helpful.
I can't remember ever ordering a pistol service pack from Wolff (although I use a lot of their mag & recoil springs for my 1911's and some mag springs for some double column mag 3rd gen guns), but you can hope the springs come in individually marked packages like when they're ordered individually. That would make it easy to identify the springs.
While there are many springs in the 3rd gen guns that I easily recognize for what they are, there are some that I prefer not to risk mixing up with others. I just don't have to replace them often enough to memorize them.
The main spring, recoil spring, firing pin & drawbar plunger spring are easy enough to recognize, since there aren't any other springs really close to being the same design & size, but some of the smaller springs can be confusing if you don't have a manual for reference and haven't seen them. After all, look how easily even experienced folks can find it to mix up the manual safety body plunger spring and the ambi lever plunger spring ... and mixing up those 2 small springs can cause functioning problems.
The 2 "lever springs" ... the lightweight, short & wide springs that are located under the ejector/mag depressor lever on the left side and the sear release lever & firing pin safety lever on the right side are easy enough to identify, as they're identical to each other (same spring) and are different than the rest of the springs.
Me? I go out to the bench and pull the needed springs from my parts containers and compare the old & new springs, noting the part numbers and making sure they match the intended application.
I also keep the factory part numbers in the little bins for some of those springs I need to make sure aren't mixed up with another spring. Sometimes I keep smallest and/or seldom used springs contained in the small clear plastic envelopes in which they came from the factory (and are marked with the part number). Easiest for them not to get mixed up that way.
I've been to a lot of armorer classes for different guns and I don't like confusing springs ... and I don't like to count on my memory for many of them (only the most obvious and easiest to remember).
Something else which can occasionally complicate things is that a factory spring may have received a slight revision and look a little different than the spring being replaced. An example of this which happened to me was when the firing pin safety plunger spring and the ejector depressor plunger spring were changed in the length of the spring and the wire gauge used at some point. Fortunately, I double checked the part numbers, and each of those springs are just the right diameter to exactly fit inside the recessed holes of their respective plungers (and they're differently sized).
Some factory springs are "closed end", meaning the end coils are flattened and not rounded like the rest of the coils.
Now, this is just talking about the factory springs. Buying aftermarket springs may result in getting springs that meet the required specs, performance-wise, but which my be longer and/or use different gauge wire material ... and look different than the factory springs intended for the same application.
You might consider ordering the factory springs and using them. They'll come in marked bags/envelopes and you can look up the part number in the factory parts list to match it for your model and then write the application for each spring on the little bag next to the part number.
Factory provided springs are relatively inexpensive and are serviceable. They've been designed (and often revised) so they meet specifications the gun makers feel are necessary for allowing their guns to provide the intended optimal operation and functioning.
One thing I'd mention about the 9/.40 slides in the 3rd gen guns is that there is an opening in the bottom of the slide which allows excessive solvents & cleaning agents to migrate into the extractor's recessed slot. It's a narrow machined slot found on the bottom of the slide to the right side of the slide's pickup rail. Slopping and sloshing excessive liquids on the bottom of the slide, and especially into the "grooves" to each side of the center pickup rail, can allow the liquid to gain access to the space under the extractor. (I use a very lightly dampened patch wrapped around the narrow end of a plastic M16-type nylon brush to get into those grooves, myself ... and also in the slide rails.)
I'll sometimes place the tip of an air compressor nozzle up under this narrow bottom slide slot in a gun I suspect to be heavily fouled with "fresh" solvents & lubricants. The air pressure can force out some amount of excess liquids, causing it to flow out around the body of the extractor in the side of the slide (where it can be wiped away before flowing back inside the recessed slot). Wear safety goggles.
The .45 slides lack this machined slot under the slide leading up into the extractor recess.
Just my thoughts ...
6906 springs
Linear Mode
