Has anyone experienced a 'clicking' sound when the trigger is first pulled? If so, how do I remove this annoying sound?

Take a look at this thread in the Notable Threads section.

Most likely, this is your issue.

Problem fixed, thanks, BruceB. Before I completely disassembled for cleaning and adjustment I noticed that the drawbar, trigger, trigger spring and plunger all moved up a few thousands creating this 'clicking' sound. Oddly enough, this is a new firearm with as few as 50 rounds spent. Good to Go.

Take care not to get overzealous about "adjusting" the trigger play spring to try and resolve occasional clicking caused by the trigger's ears slipping up and over the top edge of the drawbar head's V-notch. Too much bending & tweaking can eventually snap off one or both sides of the spring, whether it's an old or new style.

It's not exactly uncommon. I've been told by folks at S&W that it seems to be more common with the .45/10mm frames, probably for something to do with the overall dimensions and how the parts sit and move in that wide single column frame. I've come across it in the occasional double column 59XX gun, though.

The gun will run with a broken trigger play spring, but the single action trigger will have some extra movement/flop in it. I once had a spring completely break away and disappear sometime during the course of a couple of day's shooting (800+ rounds) at some unknown point. I didn't notice it until I had the gun broken down for cleaning. I'd been doing lots of training/practice drills and never had occasion to "feel" the loss of the spring in the SA trigger.

Replacing the spring is a bit tedious, requiring disassembly of the frame so the drawbar can be removed, but not that bad once you've done it a few times. The spring is held in position with a soft rivet that has to be punched out and replaced with a new one when the spring is replaced.

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Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer

I have a 4506 with the 45 Super conversion and some other custom touches. Also had the clicking problem. Just this afternoon was working on the gun and watched the ears on the trigger go over the drawbar. Took a drift punch and pushed on the springs just a tad and now the clicking is gone as the trigger stays where it should. Obi Wan (aka Fastbolt) is right on the money, as usual.

On a related note, on both my 645 and 4506, the drawbars were rougher than a cob. Spent some time with a Dremel tool and a fine grit small diameter wheel and smoothed off the worst of the roughness. A few hundred strokes with a stone and they are smooth - not like a mirror, but smooth enough.

Seems to me that the drawbar is the source of most of the friction and roughness in all S&W metal semi-autos.

BTW Fastbolt, thanks for the advice earlier in the year. Bought a 5906TSW, which is a great gun. However, the grip is too large for my small paws, and my wife's. Will sell it shortly. So, I bought a 3913TSW which fits great and shoots even better. Found a nice NL on GB and bought it for the wife - she loves it. Will post some pics and comments later.

Funny thing about the NL. When I found it, I checked the Forum and there had only been about 6-8 listed in the last 2 years. I thought, gee, this may be the only one for sale for a while, so I bought it - probably paid a little more than I should have. Two weeks after getting the gun, two show up on GB and a Forum member had a nice one for sale for a lot less than I paid for mine. Good thing I don't trade commodities.

Peace - Through Fire Superiority

Quick question... What does the "NL" stand for?

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Centennial Every Day

Have you tried switching the arched grip for the straight one (from a 4006)? The straight one worked noticeably better for me than the standard arched grip. I made the switch on my issued 5903 and it felt better. Of course, I also switched out the spurred hammer for a spurless hammer (6906 hammer installed on the longer 59XX's stirrup) because I'm one of those folks who can experience hammer bite, even on a 3rd gen Smith.

Also, we switched a handful of the arched grips for the straight ones for some of our shooters with smaller hands and they were well received.

Naturally, it won't make the grip frame any "smaller", but it can sometimes help making by way of making it a bit shorter (front-to-back) for the bottom of the hand/palm by eliminating the arched "swell" for some folks.

Glad to hear the 3913TSW works well for you. I always thought the 3913 was their best effort in a compact. I rather liked the 3906, too, and always wished they'd made an all-stainless compact (which would have been named a 3916, if they'd followed their model numbering for size & frame/slide material. (Unlike how they named their 6906, which would seem to have been better named a 6913, or at least a 6903, for the compact size with a stainless slide and alloy frame. Go figure. It occasionally seemed, at least to me, that they sometimes chose their model numbering by dart board. )

It basically means "No Logo", meaning the frame has the same angled profile (at the front of the dustcover) as the LadySmith model, but it lacks the "LadySmith" logo.

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Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer

+1 on changing to the straight back grips on the 5906. I have short-ish fingers and it made a world of difference.

Copy that, Fastbolt your right on. the 'fragile' spring, if you will, can go away very quickly if its over bent. I don't see any problem replacing it, should it break in time, just tedious, as you said.
rasmith3442, I polished the drawbars on all my auto's, along with other parts, which when complete I have a lighter, crisper trigger--trigger job.
Thanks, to all for your reply. A wealth of knowledge shared and learned.
Good to Go

Thanks for the info!

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Centennial Every Day