I picked up a 5906 in excellent condition today at a gun show and was doing my due diligenc... (disassembly, inspection, cleaning, etc...) and I broke one of the spring ears on the sideplate assembly off (one that includes the hammer pin). Felt pretty foolish...
Anyway, I was looking for a replacement and am not having any luck since S&W lists it as discontinued...
I am attaching a snag of the schematic to show what the part looks like.
Wondering if any of you have any ideas on where I might look. I am going to start with local gunshops tomorrow (monday) morning and hope it will be a short quest as I haven't even fired the pistol yet... (so ticked at myself for doing something that stupid...)
Thanx,
Allan

OOPs!... must be getting past my bedtime. I forgot the attachment...

Attached Images

SW 5906 side plate assembly.png (16.1 KB, 273 views)

The same thing happened to my 6906 within the last several months. I phoned S&W and they shipped me one. I suggest you call them and ask for a new sideplate assembly.

1-800-331-0852

Part # 106780000

Link http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore...ist_Retail.pdf

I just looked at my packing list and the sideplate assembly is the same part number on the 5906 and the 6906.

__________________
"I also cook."

Thanx... If I can't do any good tomorrow morning locally, I will be giving them a call...
Allan

I called up Smith the other day to get a new magazine spring for my 1006. They have every part you'd need if you call them up, they don't have anything but mags and such listed on their website. My only gripe is the slowness in getting things shipped out, but they are very affordable and friendly.

Yep I think more guns are broken and ruined by kitchen table gunsmiths than any other way.

It takes some digging on their website but they do have downloadable PDFs of both revolver and pistol parts lists.

@cactus-jack ... I would tend to agree with your comment. I think I'd rather call it a learning curve, though... :-)

My Dad always said: ''If it ain't broke don't fix it''.

If for some reason S&W doesn't have any available, Midway has these:

Sideplate Assembly S&W 4004 410 411 459 5904 5944 910 915 SUPER9 469 6904 6944

They are blued instead of stainless, but it will work in the 5906.

Two of my old man's favorites:

" Son, if we knew what we were doing, we wouldn't be calling it research!"

And:

"That boy could tear up an anvil with a rubber mallet!"

Always left me feeling conflicted but unafraid to take apart anything. So don't feel bad. You now know more about the inner workings of your Pistol than most people do!

Geeez, give the guy a brake already, he made a mistake, we have all been there, haven't we? Let's help the guy out if we can.

There was a thread on here a long time ago that I saw where a gentleman had the same problem and ended up drilling a hole and tapping a screw in somewhere on the frame and sideplate. It seemed to work and not affect any function. Wish I could find it now, it would be a good alternative if the part can't be found anywhere.

Wait, so how did you break that? Seems like a relatively sturdy part.

It's not at all sturdy. Mine broke while on the gun with the grips in place. They were back ordered when I phoned them, but it arrived within a few weeks. However they attach the sheet metal stamping to the pin, it's a weak point.

__________________
"I also cook."

Well... I didn't wait for the full teardown document ( and I am not sure that would have told me all the details) I ordered to arrive..., but Here's what happened... I thought it would come off like any stainless steel keeper (like on the take-apart link on a roller chain, etc...), so I inserted a thin blade under the forked end to 'lift' it up enough to rotate it off the pin and 'SNAP'!! it went... I found the small piece laying next to the pistol... It definitely is a weak point... I pride myself on being somewhat mechanical and understand physics to a certain degree...
In retrospect, I think I could have taken both pins out at the same time just by pushing them out from the other side of the weapon and that's what I will do from now on... unless the teardown document instructs me differently...
I know I have seen posts where people say 'leave well enough alone' or 'don't venture in there...just wash it out good with solvent and dry it, etc...', but I do like to learn all I can about anything I own and sometimes it comes with a small pricetag...In this case, I am not going to be able to shoot the weapon for the first time until I get a replacement, which I will order from S&W. I may just order a spare... I have a philosophy about spares that drives my wife nuts... but even though it may never be needed (as long as it doesn't cost an arm and a leg), I will have one readily available...

BTW, thanx to everyone for their help, comments, etc... I think I am going to enjoy being part of this forum.

OH... nearly forgot to mention... I was running around today trying to get the part and came across another 5906 at a pawn shop that looked good for less than what I paid for this one... So my wife may have one to keep in her car now... Depends on how well I like it....

@jdesro1911... Thanx so much for the info... got it coming and should be here Monday...(didn't want to pay exorbitant fees for 2nd or next day...)
I was wondering about that... It looked from the pics I saw that they were the same and would work, but didn't realize the 1 digit change in the part number meant blued vs. stainless...
Again, thanx...
Allan

You're welcome!

I have one of these in my 5906. The one that was in there originally was a little bent from a previous owner. I had heard that this part can be a bit fragile, so instead of trying to straighten it, I just bought this from Midway. Fits Perfectly - and you can barely tell that it is a different color, since most of it is covered by the grips anyway.

And I also bought a few spares - just in case!

Hello,Does these part stop the pistol from shooting
I have one that broken

Numrich Gun Parts has the side plate assemblies for the 5906 in stock right now (I'd post the link to the page, but I don't think that's allowed).

happens to the best of us.

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S&W Accumulator

Well, My side plate assembly (blued instead of Stainless) that I ordered from Midway on Tuesday came in the mail today... Was supposed to be here on Monday, but came early and made my day...
I had the pistol all cleaned and lubed and ready to swap the part (which took all of 5 minutes...) and I was ready for the range. BTW, I mentioned in an earlier post that on Monday while looking locally for the part, I came across another 5906 identical to the one I owned and picked it up... It was just begging for me to take it home... :-) I also had it ready to go to the range to be fired for the first time as well...
I spent an hour or so on the firing line and fired about 150 rounds between the two of them... and they both performed beautifully!! I am so pleased with both acquisitions and I am fast becoming a big 3rd Generation S&W fan.
From my time on the range, I found that both weapons shot high and to the left a few inches, but still a pretty tight group. I am thinking it may be me that is off as I have bifocals and don't have a clear picture of the sight and the target at the same time... But I am going to spend a lot more time with them at the range and see if I can correct that.
Anyway, can't thank you all enough for the help and support I have gotten here.
Wishing you all a happy Easter ...
Allan

Sop's correct. I just checked and they say they have them, for now. They're "Low Quantities" so you should jump if you need one. JMHO

Sideplate Assembly

FWIW

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1st Signal Brigade, RVN '70

@Rockus ... In my estimation, I don't think it would make the weapon not fire, but it would be a whole lot safer not to fire it broken... The sear spring retainer pin would still stay in the pistol because of the grips stopping it from working out either way, so it would still function.

@sop ... Thanx for the PM of the Numrich site URL... I am adding it to my list of resources...

@Denver Dick
I checked the site as well... Think I will put in an order for at least one... The one on my Pawn Shop 5906 is bent and I believe it would be best to replace it and keep the bent one for a spare (just in case).
I did place an order with S&W early in the week as well knowing it will be a little longer than with the online sources... I got a card today from them telling me the part is on backorder...

thank you for the info just order one,also not planning to firing it untill fixed thank for in-put

Is it a hard part to replace Sideplate Assembly

Not hard at all... just have 2 drift pins available (they are different sizes) to replace the 2 pins as you work them out .. Then mate the old sear spring retainer pin to the new side plate assembly and work the 2 pins back into the pistol while allowing the drift pins to exit back out the other side.
If you don't use the replacement pins to hold the parts (hammer and sear spring and a couple others) in place, they will be falling out on your table causing you more time to put the thing back together...and of course, frustration...
Good luck!!

@rockus
If you ordered the parts from Numrich, how much shipping did they charge you? I tried to order the part and it came up to $33.50 shipping and should have been $7.50 according to their link on their site. I sent them an email, but will probably have to wait until Monday and call them...
Thanx,
Allan

The gun will still fire with just the pins, but the slide will lock back after each shot without the formed sheet metal part. The bent angled portion presses against the slide release plunger and keeps it down until the magazine is empty and the follower pushes it up.

__________________
"I also cook."

i'm still waiting to make my first misteak..maybe some day.

Don't forget Bubba the self pro-claimed gunsmith, they do their fair share of damage too.

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OGCA / OVMS / NAPCA / TMCA

Using two drift pins, as adayton advises, is very important if you want to avoid spilling the guts of the gun all over your workspace as you remove and replace the side plate assembly. In the event it all comes apart in your hands and you don't know how these pistols go back together, it really helps to have an exploded assembly diagram handy.

Also....To avoid bending and damaging the side plate assembly and the points where both pins attach, the most common reason for breaking the plate and having to replace the thing, you also have to gradually insert the two drift pins simultaneously into the gun, each one a tiny bit at a time, while gently backing out the side plate assembly's two pins, also a tiny bit at a time.

If you try to drive each pin out individually, or pull the side plate assembly out one pin at a time, the bending force on the side plate itself will often snap the metal or cause irreparable distortion or damage to the part. Take it easy as you back out this side plate assembly, make sure it doesn't bend excessively as it comes out and goes back in, and you won't have to replace it.

@s&wchad... didn't think about that, but after looking at the side of the pistol, It's true (depending on which tab is broken off... Mine being the one toward the back of the gun). If it is the other tab, then it should still hold in place and not give you that difficulty since the pin will hold it down and the grip keeps it from going down any further (unless, of course the pin works its way out to the right side of the weapon which would again result in the side plate assembly to work its way up and catch the slide)

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Bubba by self proclamation :-)

@sop ... Thanx for clarifying and getting into more detail. My explanation left a lot of detail out... (I was getting tired...was way past my bedtime)
:-)

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Bubba by self proclamation :-)

Okay, there seems to be some questions about removing and installing the side plate. So, FWIW, here are some suggestions. First, I recommend to anyone who intends to disassemble and reassemble a 3rd generation pistol for a thorough cleaning/lube every now and then to find and watch Smith & Wesson Auto Pistols (1st, 2nd & 3rd Generation) Armorer's Course, Maintenance & Technical Video by the American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI). It's good stuff.

As for removing the side plate, here is what I do (Fastbolt may have a better way, he's one of the best). After you have field stripped the pistol you will remove the grip. By doing that you remove the pressure provided by the main spring. Now, while the pistol is on its right side on the work bench, use your fingers (and nails ) to slowly lift up and remove the side plate (and sear pin). Be sure to support the fingers and the sear pin as they come out (good nail technique comes in handy here). This will allow most of the guts of the frame to fall out. No punches are required.

Reassembling is a little different. First, get the disconnector and sear in place and push in the sear pin. Now, get the hammer and all the levers in place and lined up (here I will use a punch on occasion, but sometimes I don't have to). I carefully start the hammer pin (which is, of course, part of the side plate) with a little wiggle until it's almost completely in place (the fingers just touch the sear pin that is sticking up a little as the pistol is laying on its right side). Carefully pick up the frame. Push the sear pin in so that it's now flush with the left side of the frame but sticking out a little on the right. Push the side plate so that is tight against the left side of the frame.

Okay, here comes the trick: Use your left thumb to push hard against the fingers of the side plate while strking the sear pin (sticking out the right side of the frame) sharply with a plastic hammer. BINGO, fingers and sear pin will snap into place. Now, if that's not working (some sear pins don't seem to have enough bevel on the end with ring), then I use the middle finger of my left hand to press hard against the side plate fingers. I then lay the frame on its left side (squishing my middle finger between the work bench and frame) strike the sear pin a little harder. This procedure has never failed to work. Your thumb/finger supports the side plate's fingers as they snap onto the ring of the sear pin.

And when re-installing the grip, remember be careful, do not rush and don't let yourself get distracted by your barking dogs (personal experience speaking here ). This is especially true if you're putting on a new grip. New ones can be very tight. It makes for nice fit & finish, but can also bend your fingers, if you know what I mean.

Now, if you want a real challenge, wait until you tackle a frame decocker 3rd generation like the 1076, 4576, etc. Yep, the fun never ends here at S&W Forum.

HTH and good luck.

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1st Signal Brigade, RVN '70

Yep, sideplates typically suffer damage to the legs (or prongs) that fit around the left end of the sear pin because of inattentive armorers (or untrained hobbyists).

While I certainly wouldn't recommend detailed frame disassembly be done by someone that hadn't been trained to do so, the method I use to remove the sideplate is a simple one.

Once the grips have been remove from the frame, I hold the frame in my left hand (I'm right-handed), left side facing upward, with my left thumb gently holding the front extension of the side plate (no pressure, just keeping it stationary and given me an "index" of its position) ... and then I use a plastic mallet to smartly whack the left end of the sear pin, snapping the sear pin out (to the right) from between the sideplate's legs.

This prevents any outward (leftward) pressure or leverage being exerted on the sideplate's legs, like if someone's trying to lever or lift the legs off the frame. They're remain flat against the frame using this method (since they can't try to follow the disappearing head of the sear pin as it snaps out from between them moving to the right).

Once one the legs has been tweaked or bent, it's best to simply replace it. It's usually the rear leg that gets tweaked or bent. The reason is due to unwanted pressure exerted against the bottom/front edge of the sideplate during installation of the factory grip, simple leverage resulting in the sideplate's upward shift putting pressure against the rear leg at the bottom of the sideplate (which is being kept from moving forward by the sear pin ... so it bends). Improperly trying to pry, lever or otherwise lift the sideplate legs to the left can create the opportunity for one of them to acquire a bend, too.

Sometimes it might be possible to straighten a tweaked sideplate leg, but more often than not the leg breaks off (or is now weakened).

This isn't a design weakness. It's an armorer or owner ("kitchen table gunsmith") caused "problem". Kind of like how stripping the threads on a screw isn't a "design" problem or weakness, but a problem caused by the "loose nut" trying to operate the tool to overtighten the screw.

Now, I use a different method than originally taught to me to install the sear pin and anchor the sideplate. We were first shown to install the sear pin from the right side (with the left "headed" end of the sear pin oriented on the left, so its recessed groove can capture the sideplate's legs). Then, we were shown to hold the sideplate with our thumbs and use a cup-end pin punch to push against the right end of the sear pin. The only thing keeping the sideplate legs "flat" was the pad of our thumb, though, and shoving the left end of the sear pin against our thumbs, while it was pushed between and through the sideplate legs. Not much in the way of a firm surface against the sideplate legs ... and the pin being pushed into your thumb could be less-than-pleasant. (Especially if the pin punch slips, which can leave a mark on both the frame and you. )

I forget who showed me a better way, but it involves placing the frame on a hard work surface (not your wife's kitchen table!), on its right side, with the sideplate (left side) facing upward.

The side plate is slightly up and off the frame, sitting on top of the sear pin's head (with the sear pin being held flush on the right side by the hard work surface).

A maple armorer's wedge (wooden handle of a cleaning brush, or any other non-marring flat edged tool) is positioned against the left side of the legs, just "above" the sear pin, equally against both legs ... and then a gentle, but briskly firm, push against the legs causes them to quickly snap outward around the head of the sear pin, and slip into the pin's groove. The flat edge of the wedge (if held flat against both legs) helps minimize the potential for the legs to be bent, becoming uneven in relation to each other.

Here's a couple of pictures of what I mean ...

In this picture the sideplate is "prepped", ready for the pin to be driven through the legs, and the sideplate to be pushed against the frame for installation. (Ignore the patch, it's only covering one of the serial numbers. ) The flat of the wedge is positioned close to the head of the pin to minimize the chance of either of the legs being bent upward/outward.




Gentle, brisk & firm pressure against the wedge has caused the legs to quickly snap out & around the head of the sear pin, where they're now resting within the recessed groove on the sear pin. This has also pushed the sideplate flat against the frame.



This is what it should look like afterward. The sear pin has been captured by the legs, and both legs are flat against the frame. Anti-climactic.




Some sear pins, showing the groove intended to hold the sideplate's legs.


Outside of a frame, sideplate legs/prongs fully snapped around recessed head of sear pin, showing full engagement in recessed groove around head of pin.

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Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer

Thanks and fixed work out great,Great info,thanks to all

Help Can not find a sideplate !!
Please let me know if anyone know were and how to get one .
Thanks from Bill in Dallas [email protected] 972 822 0990

Either you're very subtle, or your long run is over...

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Lounge Lizard Extraordinaire

I see from your post in another thread that you are looking for S&W 5906 sideplate assy S&W # 106780000

IF S&W can't supply it, your next steps are to contact the other sources mentioned higher in this thread -- Brownell's, Numrich, maybe Midway but I don't know about them. If those sellers are completely out, post a WTB note in the proper section of the Classifieds on this forum. It sounds like some people have extras in their parts stores and may be able to come to your aid.

Good luck.

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David Wilson

My dad always said "If it aint fixed, break it". I tend to follow that advice often.

I recently had to change over to a new pic hosting service because of PB's change of practices (wanting money for 3rd party hosting). When I changed over all of my pics, and tried to go back into this thread to replace some pics that were no longer available for a 3rd party (forum) hosting, the first pic in post #37 got mixed up in my recent attempt to update the pics in this old thread. I've just gone back and inserted the original, correct pic for a "prepped" sideplate over the sear pin head.

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Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer

Thanks for the picture re-posts. It's a pain...I've been trying to fix mine when I can too.

.

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Waiting for the break of day