I've been researching this and have seen some say that refinishing an anodized aluminum frame can damage the strength of the aluminum. Is this true? I'm looking for experienced information on this from those who have had this work done or know facts about this matter. Also, if you have good pictures of your refinished aluminum frames would be a plus.

Thanks - Brian

Brian, It depends on what kind of refinishing you mean. If it is re-anodizing it then that can only be done 1 more time after the factory did it. Anodizing uses up some of the base metal, the aluminun, in the process. Loss of strength would occur if it was done more than 2 times. The dimensions will change also after the 2nd time, pin holes will be larger and there would probably be some loss of strength. The other coatings like Robar NP3 adds to the strength of the aluminum surface as would Cerakote and other such finishes. Hard chrome can only be done on aluminum after electroless nickle is applied first. Aluminum is not very forgiving. I do beadblasting for my dealer and we have had a couple of fellows wanted their 6906's blasted. When we explained that beadblasting would remove the anodizing on the frame and it should be re-anodized they cheaped out and said leave it bare. After a few weeks of carry and shooting they were very sorry., they looked terrible, stained badly. Hope this helps. Terry

Brian, FYI hardened tool steel can have a hardness that maxes out at about 64 on the Rockwell C scale. The ceramic layer that is formed when aluminum is anodized has a hardness in excess of 70 on the Rockwell C scale. Point is if you strip off that ceramic layer of Aluminum Oxide you have raw aluminum exposed that is so soft that it won't even register on the Rockwell C scale.

If you want to change the color or do something similar just have your existing frame coated with one of the premium finishes such as the Robar or Cerakote already mentioned.

There is a lot of mis-information about anodizing out there so I'm not surprised your research has not given you a clear answer. Case in point is the last post. No disrespect Scooter123, but anodizing does not form a ceramic layer. Type III "Hardcoat" anodizing can produce surface hardness in the range of ceramics but it’s not technically ceramic, and there are processes similar to anodizing that do deposit/form a ceramic layer. So your mistake is an easy one to make.

BrianE, if you are talking about a S&W, then I suspect you are dealing with Type II because the silver/stainless colored frames are too light in color to be Type III which is gold to dark earth in "clear" (at least on 7075 Al, I haven't dealt with 6000 series lately) and can be dyed in darker shades up to the typical milspec black you see on AR-15 receivers. I suspect Sig frames are Type III but I'm not 100% certain.

Either way, the anodizing creates a hard, tough, corrosion resistant surface but does not really increase strength to the underlying aluminum. Think of it like the candy shell on an M&M. That being said, these guys are right, you don't want to mess with removing it. To do it right is expensive, requires specialized equipment, your gun will be more susceptible to wear/dings/scratches, and it’s never going to be like starting from scratch.

I would recommend a light aluminum oxide blast to slightly rough up the surface but to hopefully not remove much of the anodizing. Then go back with CereKote applied by a qualified person in whatever color suits your fancy. Duracoat, Guncoat, and the other stuff out there just doesn't compare.

A few tips. Degrease BEFORE blasting so you don’t drive oils and other contaminants into the surface. Do NOT use glass bead as it will not provide sufficient adhesion for the coating. You’ll think you screwed up when you see how rough the grit blast is, but trust me the CereKote will fill in the pores and bring it back to a smooth, good looking surface.

Paint!!...Fancy gun-rated stuff of several varietys and colors can be found at Brownells and other suppliers.