If you like it, GREAT! I'm not a collector, but a shooter. If I came up with a gun like that and it didn't fit me, I'd try to get a collector price for it and buy something I really liked.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I believe I posted a thread on this earlier, but here is what I usually do, summarized:

1. Use a good digital SLR camera. I use the Pentax K-3 currently, although I have used the Pentax K-5. The K-3 is a 24MP camera, the K-5 is 16MP. Both are superb pro/enthusiast-level cameras.

2. Find a shady spot outdoors to place your subject, or photograph outdoors on a cloudy day. This gives "soft" shadows and even lighting.

3. Use a good, sharp lens. My favorites are the Pentax 35mm SMC-DA f/2.8 Macro Limited, or the Pentax SMC-FA 50mm f/1.4. For longer guns, I use the Pentax SMC-DA 18-135mm zoom.

4. Use a tripod. Turn any shake reduction feature off. Use the largest quality picture of which your camera is capable.

5. Shoot using the RAW mode. This gives you plenty of latitude with post-processing software.

6. Shoot in the manual mode. I shoot with a 3-second delay, which first flips the internal mirror up and then trips the shutter shortly after. This stops any vibrations of the camera from "mirror flop." I usually select f/8 (the sharpness/depth of field "sweet spot" of most of my lenses), and bracket with several shots, altering the exposure time to get what I hope will be near-perfect exposure judging from the camera's LCD screen and sometimes histograms. I use ISO 100 for very low "noise" or grain in the photo. My cameras can select the white balance on the "auto" setting very well, or you can select "cloudy day" or "shade" pre-sets. Post-processing can correct most white balance errors. I select spot auto-focusing, or just focus manually to get the focus perfect. Lose any lens filters to get the utmost sharpness.

7. Watch for reflections from the subject. They can ruin an otherwise nice shot by reflecting the camera, the shooter, or distracting objects. Shoot at a slight angle to avoid these things.

8. Select your best shot(s) from those you photographed. Using post-processing software, you can straighten the alignment, adjust the white balance, bring up contrast and/or saturation, increase the apparent sharpness, adjust the exposure, and crop for best presentation. For really large detailed closeup pictures, you can clone out fingerprints, specks of dust, etc. Then you can reduce the size of the photo to fit the display medium you want to target. I'm currently using PhotoShop Elements 10 for my post-processing.

That's about it. For most of the shots I've taken for my book 101 Classic Firearms and the Blue Press articles, as background I use a suitably-sized piece of white countertop material from Home Depot.

Hope this helps.

John

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- Cogito, ergo armatus sum -

Was the model 59 ever offered with the curved back strap and wood grips like the model 39?

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Pine_Worker
Ex-LEO, NRA Life

S&W did, at one time, sell a plastic replacement back strap that was curved. As for wood grips, I think they were like the curved back strap, not a factory option, but could be purchased as an aftermarket item.

When the VP 70 hit the shelves, us gun shop clerks called it "The Space Gun".
Jim

Give yourself the pleasure of shooting your 59 KYgirl, then buy a third generation model with a single stack magazine if you want a carry gun.

The slimmer profile will conceal better and with a second magazine your capacity will still be adequate for most social encounters you are likely to have.


Model 3914 LadySmith

Other choices are a 3914 DOA (Double Action Only) for the slimmest profile:



digiroc

I am sure my friend, that nothing has changed since!! Even to this day, most people who would have this pointed at them would pass it for a toy! lol

Yes, the Browning HP was the first "Wondernine", then the MAB P-15.
Had an S&W M-59, didn't like that aluminum frame. The M659-now THAT's a "Wondernine.".

Ditto..... the "Wonder Nine" ........