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  #2  
Old 04-19-2013, 03:36 PM
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Great stuff!
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:59 PM
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Thanks!

Always like to collect those links.

Dave
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:42 PM
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Well Done, thanks!
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:55 PM
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Great videos. I hope I never have to do this level of disassembly on any of the 3rd generation guns, but it's nice to have the information.

I've downloaded and am saving these videos.

Thank you, Bluebellyyankee.
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:43 PM
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Thanks for posting! That WILL come in very handy.
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:41 PM
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Thank you very much, great video!
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  #8  
Old 04-20-2013, 09:12 PM
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VERY good info - this thread needs to be a sticky or something
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:45 PM
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thanks....
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:10 PM
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At A Boy! Thanks for your educational video...
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:17 AM
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Great videos! thank you for posting these!
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:45 PM
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Absolutely exactly what l've been looking for! Thank you for not only sharing your knowledge, but also for such a detailed step by step how to on working with a third gen Smith... Well done! 👍👍

Blessings,
Hog
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  #13  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:55 AM
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more kudos.
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2013, 07:48 AM
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What do you guys think about a video that shows how to "gunsmith" or "slick-up" the action on one of these 3rd gens guns?
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:57 AM
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I think you'd have a lot of fans.

Dave
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:09 AM
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That would be absolutely excellent!
Can we see it yet?...




how bout now?
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:43 AM
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Slightly off topic, can anyone recommend a small kit with the pins and hammer and what I would need to disassemble my Ge3n III like in the videos? Not looking to get into gunsmithing, I need enough to take a Gen III or an M&P down and give it a thorough cleaning occasionally.
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:57 AM
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I usually get Service Packs from Wolff if I'm going to take down a S&W, probably can get them for the M&P also.
Springs for SMITH & WESSON NUMBERED SERIES Semi-Auto Pistols

You shouldn't have to worry about pins for the 3rd Gen gun but the M&P has some roll pins that you might want to have on hand. General parts or pins can usually be had at Brownells or try Speed Shooters Specialties.
Welcome to Speed Shooter Specialties

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Old 05-05-2013, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEBELLYYANKEE View Post
What do you guys think about a video that shows how to "gunsmith" or "slick-up" the action on one of these 3rd gens guns?
I'd like to see it - the trigger on my 3906 is "crunchy" while it's 3904 counterpart is as smooth as silk.

Appreciate your contributions on the 3rd generations -
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:52 PM
BLUEBELLYYANKEE BLUEBELLYYANKEE is offline
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Ok, I will work on putting something together over the next couple of days. I will post a new thread with the links to YouTube in a couple of days.
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:10 PM
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Nice work.
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  #22  
Old 05-10-2013, 03:21 PM
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I finally finished these "gunsmithing" videos. There are 4 videos that total about 1 hour. They were uploaded to YouTube in full HD (1080p) so they should be very clear. Hopefully they contain some information you can use.

I am also going to create a new thread giving these same links to the videos.

Here are the links:

Video 1- GUNSMITHING THE S&W 3RD GENERATION PISTOL VIDEO 1 OF 4 - YouTube

Video2- GUNSMITHING THE S&W 3RD GENERATION PISTOL VIDEO 2 OF 4 - YouTube

Video3- GUNSMITHING THE S&W 3RD GENERATION PISTOL VIDEO 3 OF 4 - YouTube

Video 4- www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQ3Ass17eYQ

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Old 05-10-2013, 05:04 PM
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Thank You!

Just finished watching these four videos and have to say they are the best. Very high quality and very clear as to what to do.

I've done some of this on my two S&Ws but without the Dremel. I have one but don't have the experience you do so I stick with sticks with cloth on them or cloth and finger.

I have some water stones that I've reshaped but nothing for the rails. I thicknessed some hard wood and used automotive polish but I doubt that it worked a well as your stones.

You've given me some new ideas (never thought of the q-tip Dremel) and a bit more confidence. I'll have to go back and check my work.

Thanks for all your hard work!

Dave
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryS View Post
......I've downloaded and am saving these videos.....
How did you download the videos? I'd love to save them.
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  #25  
Old 05-10-2013, 07:36 PM
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I don't have time to watch all of them, but I'd offer some thoughts ...

The side plate and sear pin do not have to be removed at the same time (connected), and there's actually a good reason to remove them separately, which is potentially tweaking the side plate if the sear pin is "sticky" (and it can be at times).

"Snapping" the headed sear pin out to the right (lightly but briskly hitting it with a plastic mallet on left/headed end) requires a practiced technique, though. Then, also being able to install the sideplate over the left end of the sear pin during frame reassembly, without bending the sideplate legs, requires some practice and experience. I use a technique involving using a nylon block to support then right side of the frame (and right end of the sear pin flush with the frame), and then the edge of a maple wedge to snap the sideplate prongs over the head of the sear pin at the same time (to avoid tweaking them, risking bending one leg or even breaking it off).

I stopped watching the frame video at that point and opened the slide link.

The slide video ... I only watched parts of it (jumping here & there due to time).

S&W recommends to its armorers that the sights and extractor are NOT removed for any reason other than repair/replacement. Not for routine cleaning & inspection.

As a matter of fact, during training classes armorers are provided with a pair of classroom guns, one of which is just the "extractor/sight" gun. (In my first class we were given 8 guns, one for the "extractor/sight" training and the others to mix up parts and practice repetitive disassembly/reassembly.)

Why? Because the dovetails for the sights can go out of spec if sights are removed/installed to many times. Ditto the extractor pin hole. The "sight/extractor" slides usually get beaten out of spec at the dovetails & extractor pin holes. I can tell you that removing the sights and extractor pins become VERY easily done in the training guns.

Also, the solid extractor pins are always removed DOWNWARD, and installed UPWARD.

This typically requires the use of a "starter" punch (to get the pin broken free and moving) ... especially when working on older guns ... and then a 1/16" straight pin punch is used to drive out the "freed" pin, downward. The solid pins were installed with heavy presses, and sometimes it took a 2 or 4 oz ballpeen hammer and a brass drift punch to break the rear sights free (slide mounted in padded vise jaws).

Yes, the extractor spring tension can sometimes cause the thin punch to become bent, unless strong pressure is maintained against the extractor (but that also helps create "new" starter punches, using the cleaned up short stub remaining when a 1/16" punch tip is bent and then broken off).

In older 3rd gen guns the solid extractor pins could be in VERY tight, and there was a slight taper to the extractor holes in the slide, with the "top" one (above the extractor) being tighter. This kept the pin from walking upward.

Sometimes it was wise to keep the orientation of the extractor pin in mind when reinstalling one, especially in early 3rd gen (or older) guns, since some were wider at the bottom than the top after original installation at the factory. Of course, sometimes a used pin might require some judicious peening in order to get it to offer enough resistance inside the hole so it didn't "walk". It's easier to simply use a new pin when an old one wasn't tight enough, though.

We were also given some tapered needle reamers to use to clean out any burrs in the slide's holes, and were warned to be careful not to ream out the top holes too much. They no longer give armorers the needle reamers, reportedly because manufacturing methods and tolerances are much improved over those of the older 3rd gen guns. They haven't been offered in the tool kits in last 2 or 3 (3rd gen) pistol armorer recerts I've attended.

We also used to be given offset (dog-leg) revolver files to use to clean up any burrs from the bottom pin hole in the slide. Such burrs could stick out and cut into the alloy frames of the aluminum guns. Newer production slides have a "raised" spot around the extractor pin hole, lifting the bottom of the pin slightly up and a little more away from the top frame rail (unlike the earlier 3rd gen's).

BTW, I've seen what happens when someone unfamiliar with removing extractor pins on a 3rd gen tries to do so by driving the pin upward, and the slide hole was too tight for it to occur. They hammered, gouged and wallowed out the bottom hole (below the extractor). I got it back apart, but the bottom hole in the slide was unrepairable. The top hole was unable to exert sufficient tension, by itself, to hold any new extractor pins in the slide (they'd walk). The slide was toast. Ruined.

Now, I recently learned that S&W has finally decided that they're willing to use roll pins in the place of solid extractor pins. (It's about time.) Probably based upon their last few years of experience using a roll pin for the extractors in their M&P 45 (which was supposedly used in anticipation of a military maintenance spec in the suspected '05 pistol testing).

Then, they apparently slowly decided to switch over to using roll pins in other M&P's for extractors (I just saw one in a VTAC 9mm). That's fine with me, as the solid extractor pins in some M&P's have been VERY tightly pressed in place when I've examined them, and I grew tired of beating on S&W extractor pins many years ago. Made me feel like I ought to be a blacksmith.

It's nice to have the spring plate under the rear sights, but that was a relatively new revision (first saw it in the .45 slides). Lack of a spring plate requires some careful attention when driving a rear sight base off, but especially when installing a sight base. The springs are too easily damaged (bent, tweaked or even clipped) if the top of the springs are caught against the advancing left edge of the sight base, and the inside of the slide's spring hole, while you're banging away on the sight drift. A damaged spring in either spot can become a potential problem.

When reinstalling the manual safety assembly into the slide, you may find it helpful to have it lightly oiled ... but it doesn't require lubrication, and it ought to be wiped off before reinstallation in the slide. It's a "dry" assembly, as is the hole in the slide where it fits and operates. Lubricant in that area can migrate not only into the firing pin channel, but into both plunger spring channels, where it can attract fouling, dirt & grit, which may eventually gum things up. (Ditto for not using & introducing excessive solvent/CLP to the manual safety body during normal field-stripping & cleaning.)

Now, it's been a couple of years since my last 3rd gen armorer recert, and I'm sure they've been making further revisions beyond just the extractor pins.

I know extractors are becoming much easier to fit to the tighter tolerances in newer production TSW slides, and the sear release levers are being made within a tighter tolerance range (but I still keep some of the older, over-long levers for any older guns that may require them).

Even though the 3rd gen guns are pretty much only being made for existing LE agency customer orders (if they can't be talked into buying M&P's), they were still making manufacturing changes and revisions, even before they shifted production from Springfield to their Houlton plant. They still have some existing agency customers that are continuing to order 3rd gens.

I'll try to make some time to look at the rest of your video's in the next few weeks.

Of course, I'm neither a licensed gunsmith nor a factory engineer. Just a LE armorer who's worked on the 3rd gen's for some years. I'm NOT an expert.
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  #26  
Old 05-10-2013, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra357 View Post
How did you download the videos? I'd love to save them.
I installed the free version of RealPlayer, which has RealDownloader. That works very well on Youtube videos. I've used it for downloading videos for teaching (non gun related).

If you decide to do this, be careful. During the installation process, at the start, there are a number of boxes checked that you want to make sure that you uncheck. Free software like this comes with a lot of junk software that you probably don't want. Read each screen at the start of the installation carefully so you know what they want to install in addition to the program. You don't need the additional stuff for RealPlayer or RealDownloader to work.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:31 PM
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Default Just used your video

I followed your video for a partial disassembly a few weeks ago and that worked well. Tonight I did the whole thing, worked great! Except...

Do you have a recommendation for the "insert and hold with your finger" move? Even my little finger doesn't fit inside the frame....

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Old 06-15-2013, 07:55 AM
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Do you have a recommendation for the "insert and hold with your finger" move? Even my little finger doesn't fit inside the frame....

The only thing I can think of is to try to access the magwell from the sides of the grip area of the frame instead of the top. I have done this before and it is possible. Those double stack guns are much easier to work on for this very reason.

Hope this helps.
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:12 AM
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That was a little tongue-in-cheek; I did grasp the trigger bar from the outside.
Again, compliments on the videos!!! Great help!
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:11 PM
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Great videos, they deserve a bump to the top for new members to see.S&W 3rd gen complete disassembly video
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  #31  
Old 11-24-2015, 03:41 PM
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Thx. Bookmarked!
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Old 11-24-2015, 05:31 PM
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This thread should be a sticky, these videos are a great resource
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Old 02-25-2016, 07:38 AM
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Back to the top for the new guys.S&W 3rd gen complete disassembly video
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Old 02-25-2016, 10:23 AM
Trinidad Bill Trinidad Bill is offline
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These are really fantastic videos! It has been mentioned before but I am really surprised that these are not a sticky. Many thanks to BlueBelly for making them. They are a great help to the novice such as myself, and I am sure the more sophisticated Gen3 owner.
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Old 02-25-2016, 10:31 AM
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Yes, very helpful indeed.
I find newbs asking about things like this and a few other subjects.
So I bump and bring them back into the light of day for everyone to enjoy & learn.S&W 3rd gen complete disassembly video
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Old 02-25-2016, 04:14 PM
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Mark IV Mark IV is offline
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LOL, I knew that first video sounded familiar: I've had it in my 'favorites' for a couple years now!!
Very well done !!
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Old 12-28-2016, 08:56 PM
mrbill5 mrbill5 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2012
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Default 5946 slide

Been away from the group a while. The 8 videos on the dismantling, reassembling, polishing third series handguns inspired me. So much so I just picked up a police trade-in 5946 for slightling over $300. The handgun was definitely used but luckily very well maintained. I pulled the slide and grip and cleaned what I could without dismantling the gun. The slide was in decent shape but found the firing pin when extended to be dirty.
The 5946 does not have a safety so I cannot use the videos to take slide apart.
Any aid would be appreciated.
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