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06-05-2013, 06:18 PM
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Just field stripped my 4566TSW for the first time. Quick question.
I bought this used a week or two ago, haven't had a chance to take it to the range but I figured I should get familiar with her.
I followed this guide: Smith & Wesson Mod 4506 advanced takedown - YouTube
I'm not sure if this was happening before I field stripped it and put it back together, but I just noticed this. If I rack the slide all the way back and lock it in, the barrel that is stick out wiggles around. Is this normal? Did I goof something up during reassembly?
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06-05-2013, 06:27 PM
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Totally normal.
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06-05-2013, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texmex
Totally normal.
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Really? I was afraid I had goofed.
On an unrelated note, is at all possible to get a spring with LESS tension? Not that it's a huge deal, but I find racking the slide to be difficult sometimes. I see people doing it like it's nothing in videos, but for me (And I'll admit I'm a tad scrawny / weak) I've got to make sure I've got a super tight grip.
My Ruger, it's a breeze. My room mate's Taurus, no hassle at all. My S&W, a tad more difficult than I expected.
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06-05-2013, 06:31 PM
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When the slide is pulled back and locked in place with the slide stop lever, that is normal. The barrel is disengaged from the locking lug on the slide as well as the cams on the frame... the barrel is basically "floating" free of the lockup surfaces/points so that's why it can be wiggled around.
Wolff makes different strength springs but you have to be careful when making the decision to go with a lighter spring because you can seriously effect functionality/reliability. If you're going to be shooting mainly lighter target loads, there is a lighter spring for that, but for general use, stick with a standard spring.
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Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222
Last edited by Gunhacker; 06-05-2013 at 06:46 PM.
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06-05-2013, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunhacker
When the slide is pulled back and locked in place with the slide stop lever, that is normal. The barrel is disengaged from the locking lug on the slide as well as the cams on the frame... the barrel is basically "floating" free of the lockup surfaces/points so that's why it can be wiggled around.
Wolff makes different strength springs but you have to be careful when making the decision to go with a lighter spring because you can seriously effect functionality/reliability. If you're going to be shooting mainly lighter target loads, there is a lighter spring for that, but for general use, stick with a standard spring.
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Thanks for the response, greatly appreciated. I probably won't fuss with the spring as it's really not that bad, but it is noticeably more difficult to rack the slide than other pistols I've fired, though not 'difficult'.
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06-05-2013, 07:29 PM
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Part of the equation that adds to how much force is needed to rack the slide is the hammer main spring, since you're also cocking the hammer.
S&W tends to use heavy hammer mainsprings, so you could pre cock the hammer and then rack the slide to chamber a round... since I'm at the age where arthritis in my hands is beginning to make itself known, I use that trick to "lessen the load".
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Last edited by Gunhacker; 06-05-2013 at 07:32 PM.
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06-06-2013, 12:47 AM
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Mine was a little tough
Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Hawk
Really? I was afraid I had goofed.
On an unrelated note, is at all possible to get a spring with LESS tension? Not that it's a huge deal, but I find racking the slide to be difficult sometimes. I see people doing it like it's nothing in videos, but for me (And I'll admit I'm a tad scrawny / weak) I've got to make sure I've got a super tight grip.
My Ruger, it's a breeze. My room mate's Taurus, no hassle at all. My S&W, a tad more difficult than I expected.
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My 5943 was a little tough when I got it (though it supposedly was used) it was still pretty stiff. I worked it a while by hand and now my wife can rack no problems. If I take the magazine out I can work the slide back and forth w/o locking so I'm free to just move it back and forth quickly
When drawing the slide about an inch back there is a place where the slide wants to stop but ignore it and just keep pulling.
Also, there is an easier way to rack than pinching the slide between your thumb and your finger that's a lot easier. You've got two other pistols so you probably know this but I'll illustrate.
Hold the pistol in your right hand close to the body like you just did a 'fast draw'. Put your left hand OVER the slide to the rear so you won't block the ejection port. Push the frame forward with your right while pulling the slide back with your left and just let go. While doing this you can turn your body to keep the gun pointed downrange.
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I watched a guy on youtube to see how to strip down my semi and he said pull the slide back until the holes align and then "just hold the slide back with your finger". WHAT?? I tried that and it just about broke my finger and it was touch and go figuring out how to get the slide back to get my durn finger out! I see people racking and holding the slide all the time like it's nothing, some people say they can rack with only one hand. I'VE NEVER EXPERIENCED THIS. Anytime I've tried to rack a semi it was stiff as could be.
Last edited by rwsmith; 06-06-2013 at 10:52 AM.
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06-06-2013, 01:31 AM
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US Veteran Absent Comrade
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A couple of things you can do, without changing springs, etc. One has already been mentioned: pre-cock your hammer, so you aren't cocking it with the slide when you rack it. Second, and I don't know how "used" this pistol is, so this may not help at all if it is well broken in, but lock your slide open and leave it sit locked open for a week or so.
You can also order a Charles Atlas course...
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