A new trigger kit is available for the Bodyguard 380

This kit shortens the trigger pull by about 40% and moves the trigger break point forward. No more deep trigger break point at the rear of the trigger guard. The kit starts selling tomorrow, but can be viewed at:


Galloway Precision


On the left side of the website, click on Bodyguard 380 Performance. There is no "Add to Cart" button showing, until tomorrow.


I have personally ordered many items from Galloway Precision, for my Ruger. They have a money back gurantee, if not satisfied.


Bob

Well, if I get a hold of one this will be the first mod it gets. Thanks for the update.. After shooting my buddies BG I could only hope that someone would eventually start producing these

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If I am not mistaken the trigger kit just shortens the trigger pull but it does not lighten the pull. I dont know how strong the pull is but its high. I just hope some springs are available to lighten the pull a few pounds or more.

That is correct, it only shortens the pull length and moves the trigger break point forward. It might reduce the pull weight just a little, but only 1/2 pound or so, nothing significant. The Bodyguard is hammer fired, like my Ruger LC9. If you try to reduce the pull weight, you must reduce the hammer spring pressure, which will likely cause light hits, not recommended for a carry gun.

I have a Ruger LC9 and put the Galloway kit into that gun. It reduced the pull length by half and moved the break point forward 1/2 inch. It no longer breaks at the rear of the trigger guard. The following short video shows my stock LC9 trigger pull, the Galloway modified trigger pull, and my stock Shield's trigger pull. I have since added an Apex kit to my Shield, along with a trigger over-travel stop. The video sound is a little out of sync. Bodyguard owners should expect similar results with the Galloway kit, except I got a 50% reduction for my LC9 and the Bodyguard kit gives just slightly less reduction at 40%.

As I mentioned earlier, Galloway Precision has a money back guarantee, if not satisfied with a product they sell, just return the product and you get a full refund, less shipping. So there is not much of a risk involved, and since you still have the stock trigger bar, you can always revert the gun back to stock, but I doubt anyone would want to do that.

Video link:


Ruger LC9 Stock Trigger Pull, Mod. LC9 Trigger Pull, Stock M&P Shield Trigger Pull - YouTube


Bob

It will be interesting to see some reviews on them. Ok I just read a little about it for a Ruger sounds like something I might be into.

I am looking forward to hearing about the Galloway mods also. Will be interesting to see how much of an improvement there will be with trigger pull after changing the trigger bar, and adding the reduced power spring kit along with the increased hammer rate spring.

I see that Galloway offers a small discount on the trigger bar with the purchase of a profile trigger. Would this be the same as the RTK Edge trigger?

I was at the range yesterday and a fella next to me had a Taurus TCP and I was very impressed with trigger pull on it and this pistol is only $200. Gun functioned well for me but I only ran one full mag.

JDP,
I'm pretty sure the Edge trigger is included in the package deal for $95. The last bullet item under the Galloway short trigger kit says it's included at a discounted price. I hope so because I just ordered one this morning.

I just installed the new Galloway Precision trigger bar and trigger. The SW BG shoots 100% better. It is now more accurate than the Ruger LCP IMHO. I know that issue lies with me not liking a long trigger pull but I don't care. I love the new trigger A LOT except for one issue. The new trigger is occasionally sticking to the rear of travel after the shot and I have to push it forward again to shoot the next shot. The trigger assembly is binding somewhere and a few drops of oil did not solve the issue. I have an email in to Galloway and hope it is a simple fix. Will update shortly

My order should be here in a day or two. I ordered the trigger bar kit, firing pin, and additional springs, except the HD hammer spring was on backorder. Hope it improves the action and operation.

I installed the Galloway trigger bar kit last night and while I had the gun apart I polished the housing where the trigger bar fits against it. There's a great improvement in the trigger action now. Its shorter and much smoother. The breakpoint transition is smoother so my shot groups are more accurate and much tighter.
But I am having a problem because trigger doesn't always reset properly. Any ideas? Thanks

I took my BG apart again and installed the lighter Galloway firing pin and blocker springs. I used a small sledge hammer and a piece of 1/4" alum bar stock with slide mounted gently in a vice (wrapped in leather) to remove the rear sight. I was able to push the sight off easily without marring the surface since the alum is so much softer. While the pin was out of slide I polished it except for tip so it would glide smoothly in the slide. I also polished the end of pin so hammer would glide smoothly over it. And I polished the tip of trigger blocker mechanism that you can see protruding through inside of slide.

I think the trigger reset problems I had a couple of days ago may have been caused by the thick Slip 2000 oil that I was using on the trigger bar. I clean off this heavier oil that is intended for use on ARs, and used some thin CLP instead. Gun worked very well today. I did not have any issues with the trigger resetting. I think the thick oil I was using was causing the bar to stick slightly which caused the trigger not to reset occasionally.

While I had the gun apart I polished the hammer components, barrel ramp, and the housing where the trigger bar rides. I noticed a square patch on the housing that is under the trigger bar. Not sure if mfr stamped this raised patch or if its cast on the part, but it seems to increase the drag on the bar. I am not sure why that raised patch is on the housing, but i polished it off. Now the trigger is very smooth and lighter from the work that has been completed. I dont have a trigger gauge but it feels like its around 6-8 lbs with a much better transition and much less travel. There was a shooter at the range today with a brand new BG so I let him fire mine and he was impressed with the improved trigger.

I ran about 100 rds thru the gun today and the only problems I had were two stovepipes where round failed to chamber and got caught in the slide. I am not sure why this occurred but I changed magazines and didnt have another FTF.

I'm pretty sure you shouldn't need a tigger kit to make a factory gun workable. Seems like they souks come that way to begin with. M

Just my opinion.

I probably wouldnt have modifed this pistol if it had worked correctly from day one. But I had so many misfires so I returned it to the mfr within a month after I bought it. Gun still didnt perform correctly but it was a bit better after mfr clearanced the hammer and changed pin. Trigger travel was excessive and too strong so I decided to do some work on it myself to improve the performance. The Galloway parts definitely improved trigger action.

Sounds like mine. What I did was to sand off all the paint and polish the part and it works much better. I do have an occasional failure to reset so I may need to tweak it a bit more. But the failure to reset seemed to be caused by the part that protrudes above the frame and into the slide was binding. You can see this by dry friring and then slowly releasing the trigger and watch between the frame and slide as the transfer bar fails to return all the way up.

I'm glad that there is a product available for those who want it, but what I don't understand is the desire to "mess with" a carry gun that works fine...out of the box. Yes, the trigger pull is long, and yes, it's an 8# pull - to me that's just additional safety.

What if it doesn't work fine out of the box? or what if it works fine for some shooters depending on the size of their hands and grip etc but not for others?

In my case I often had a hard time firing the gun because the break point of the sear/hammer and the point at which the trigger met the frame was essentially the same. The only way I could reliably fire it was to use my finger tip on the trigger and deliberately pull the trigger all the way back against the frame - this was not only uncomfortable but also greatly reduced accuracy.

I am not trying to reduce the weight of the pull.

With the Galloway transfer bar - I no longer have any issue with the break point and can fire reliably - I only have a slight issue ever so often on the reset - which is not very near the forward most travel of the trigger meaning if I don't get a full forward return it might not reset. I also had a couple failure to fire but I suspect that is due to hard primers on the PPU ammo (which I didn't have prior to installing the bar).

A buddy of mine had a relative with a BG380 and commented about the trigger - I let him try mine and he said it was way better.

So please consider that no matter how "perfect" a device is from the factory - when you are talking about hundreds, thousands, or millions of units there may be some slight variation from unit to unit that affects its performance - and more importantly - when the hundreds or thousands or millions of customers each get ahold of their particular example of a given device they might have a different preference or physical ability than you.

If it is perfect for you out of the box and you are happy with it as is that is great for you and I don't think anyone is suggesting that you need to change yours.

For all of us when we get a new device be it a firearm or a car or a computer - if it suits you fine as is that's great - if not then the first action item is to find out if it is working as designed - if not get it repaired or replaced - if it is working as designed and there is no way to modify it or you just don't want to then trade it or sell it or return it - if there is a way to modify it that fits your needs and budget then modify it.

I just bought a Bodyguard .380 yesterday, no laser. The trigger pull is atrocious, it almost hits the rear of the trigger guard before it breaks. I will be damned if I am going to spend another $ 100 to make it as it should be from the factory. I will either sell it, or send it back to S&W.