night_rider
Member
i want to replace all the springs in my recently acquired 1076, is anyone aware of a video out there that shows a detailed strip of both the slide & frame?
Thanks in advance
Mike
Thanks in advance
Mike
1076 video
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re: 1076 disassembly
Check YouTube for videos on disassembly of the 3rd gen models.
Just a word of caution concerning disassembly of the frame mounted decocker models.....S&W Armorer's school instructors repeatedly cautioned us against complete disassembly of the lower frame components of the frame mounted decock mechanism because of the difficulty of correct re-assembly of the parts.
While serving as our department's armorer during the "3rd generation" years, I had to completely disassemble two of these frame decocking pistols on at least two occasions. I can tell you that they are very hard to re-assemble properly, and that the re-assemble requires a couple of specially made slave pins, and other tools to help accomplish the task.
Not to belabor the point, but if possible, try to remove/clean or replace only the components that are outside the working area of the de-cocking parts, and leave the lower frame de-cock mechanism in tact.
Check YouTube for videos on disassembly of the 3rd gen models.
Just a word of caution concerning disassembly of the frame mounted decocker models.....S&W Armorer's school instructors repeatedly cautioned us against complete disassembly of the lower frame components of the frame mounted decock mechanism because of the difficulty of correct re-assembly of the parts.
While serving as our department's armorer during the "3rd generation" years, I had to completely disassemble two of these frame decocking pistols on at least two occasions. I can tell you that they are very hard to re-assemble properly, and that the re-assemble requires a couple of specially made slave pins, and other tools to help accomplish the task.
Not to belabor the point, but if possible, try to remove/clean or replace only the components that are outside the working area of the de-cocking parts, and leave the lower frame de-cock mechanism in tact.
I would say that it makes sense to change out the recoil spring and if you're really feeling pro-active, new magazine springs. Beyond that, I think it is a bad idea to tear down the pistol further if it offers no failures or reason to do so. It's a simple risk/reward if you aren't well skilled or practiced at tearing these pistols down.
They tend to work very, very well when they avoid the (seemingly) most common threat: over-zealous tinkerers trying to fix things that aren't broken.
Compared to say a 39-2, your 1076 is a rare find.
They tend to work very, very well when they avoid the (seemingly) most common threat: over-zealous tinkerers trying to fix things that aren't broken.
Compared to say a 39-2, your 1076 is a rare find.
OP
night_rider
Member
Thanks Armorer951, found some fantastic videos. For whatever reason I was searching for strictly 10mm videos, opening the search up to all 3rd gen guns brought a much wider selection. I've done this to a couple Of Sig DA/SA's I've owned but will heed your advice on this one.
Thanks again!!
Thanks again!!
I am interested in the spring work on the 1076, as I have just acquired one for myself. Mine's not a FBI gun, but a KSP piece from my local State Police Post here in E-town. I too want to improve it's shoot ability with new springs and re lamp the Trijicon sights. They just provided me with a return slip to get that started. So, where is the best source for the springs, and can a regular Joe Schmo put them all in the right places? The mag situation kinda bites too right now.
I want to somehow make it a tribute piece about the Officer that carried it, Thomas Rosellie, but things are moving slowly right now.
I think they are awesome pistols that served our State Troopers and the community proudly.
Anyone know what holsters these were carried it? I've certainly got a lot to learn. Thanks to any and all help. And we need pictures of course! (sadly I have none on this tablet)
I'm staying tuned in!
I want to somehow make it a tribute piece about the Officer that carried it, Thomas Rosellie, but things are moving slowly right now.
I think they are awesome pistols that served our State Troopers and the community proudly.
Anyone know what holsters these were carried it? I've certainly got a lot to learn. Thanks to any and all help. And we need pictures of course! (sadly I have none on this tablet)
I'm staying tuned in!
bigggbbruce
Member
I just got done reassembling my 1076. (1 hour)
I used the grip pin and a small screwdriver to align everything just fine.
It is done in an exact order, but not all that hard to do.
Piece of cake.
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bigggbbruce
Member
No video..
Just those that said it's different..
The hardest part is lining up the levers, hammer and decocking pawl. The pawl goes in the frame first then the hammer and firing pin lever. The mag disco lever goes in last.
I used the side plate with pin to hold the pawl while I used the grip pin to slip in the other side to align everything, pushing it all the way through. Made sure the pawl was in the correct orientation, set the sear in place using a screwdriver.
Slipped the side plate and both pins in until the decock lever needed to be engaged in the pawl and held by the plate. Slipped it home installed the retainer clip.
Tested 20 rounds.. just like it's supposed to be.
It can only go together one way (the pawl).
Just those that said it's different..
The hardest part is lining up the levers, hammer and decocking pawl. The pawl goes in the frame first then the hammer and firing pin lever. The mag disco lever goes in last.
I used the side plate with pin to hold the pawl while I used the grip pin to slip in the other side to align everything, pushing it all the way through. Made sure the pawl was in the correct orientation, set the sear in place using a screwdriver.
Slipped the side plate and both pins in until the decock lever needed to be engaged in the pawl and held by the plate. Slipped it home installed the retainer clip.
Tested 20 rounds.. just like it's supposed to be.
It can only go together one way (the pawl).
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Shadow1006
Member
bigggbbruce
Member
That is a very helpful pictorial.
Notice that the hammer is in place before the ejector is installed. This is a must because the decock lug on the hammer will not let the hammer drop in if the ejector is installed first.
And not with him on the sear pin, it keys into the side plate before you install it from the other side.
My method was a little different, but similar.
I will modify it for the next time.
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