I have about 1K rounds through my 1999 Model 908 pistol, and the rails and barrel unlocking ramps show wear in the anodized frame coating. My questions: what are the best maintenance/lubrication procedures to minimize this wear? Also, how many rounds should an alloy frame compact 3rd gen pistol be expected to digest before the rails/ramps get worn out? I shoot no +P or NATO loads, either.

Currently, I clean and lightly relube after every shooting session, which is typically 100-125 rds. I used to use Break Free CLP everywhere, but recently switched to using Hoppes oil on everywhere except the rails and ramps. On those areas, I use a medium lithium-type grease.

I think you're just seeing common wear. I've seen some kind of break-in marks on every auto I've ever owned.

Sounds to me like you are doing what you should be already. Low round count guns can show some minor wear quickly then stabilize as everything mates up.
I make sure to use a light fully synthetic grease on lugs & rails of AL framed guns. FP-10 or BreakFree CLP everywhere else. Grease cleaned & replaced after every range session.

Firescout
Probably nothing to worry about just keep that lubrication going. There was a guy on this forum that had a Shorty 40 that he said had like 40,000 rounds through it.

Fresh recoil springs save frames.

John

They sure do.

I agree with the above. You are probably doing exactly what is best for your guns.

Typically I only shoot abut 50 rounds per session in any one gun and then it gets cleaned and lubed. I used to use a high-end automotive moly based grease on the rails etc. but I recently switched to Tetra Gun grease. I can't tell you it's any better but I can tell you that it costs a lot more. About $8 for a 1 oz tube. It also separates and you have to knead the tube before applying. Maybe I'll go back to Moly.

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How about recoil buffers?
I've used them in SKSs, AKs, Mini-30, 1911s, BHPs, and Beretta/Taurus 92s.
Reducing battering is a good thing.

As far as rails go, keep clean and lubed. Sounds like you're doing the right thing already.
Fresh recoil spring wouldn't hurt.

I've used so many different gun lubes, I can't remember them all.
I've thought about using a moly bearing grease.
It works very well, and is plastic compatible.
It also is dark and will stain clothing.

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What would Jim Cirillo do?

The best? You can't handle the best!

The best would be DuPont Krytox but that is very expensive for anyone that shoots and subsequently cleans their guns often.

Read this very long article- it may open your eyes to just how similar all the fancy greases are. Why use only DuPont Teflon Bearing Grease?

The test they use there puts an extreme load on the parts, but I suppose if they didn't they would all seem pretty much alike.

EDIT to add: Don't pay more for any product that claims to be specific and better for guns- they are not. Almost all of them are just standard industry lubricants (or some questionable blend) repackaged with the word 'gun' or 'shooter'.

Dang Mainsail, you are correct, I can't afford the best! And I was complaining about $8 for Tetra. I love these discussions, but when my Tetra is gone, I'm going back to Moly. And, I have a lifetime supply!

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I'm gonna grow fins.

I too use Tetra, & it's great stuff. I found a guy at a local gun show who sold me 7 tubes for $10 total. I use it on my AK's, & the rails on all my pistols. It's thick, but it rarely goes below 60F here. GARY

Oh boy, another "best lube" thread!
I think the truth is that any lube is better than no lube and I don't think that there is much difference for hand gun shooting. Maybe I'm wrong, but it doesn't really seem that the cyclic rate of a handgun is so fast that just about any quality lube will work.

I use Lubriplate 105 and it seems quite sufficient. That's after trying some of the more expensive gun lubes out there.

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Can open, worms everywhere.

Try a product from "RIG". Their 'Universal' gun grease is just right for a light coating on any frame/slide rails. I was introduced to it by a fellow pistolsmith way back when I was building custom M 1911s. It is very economical in cost and the amount one has to use for a lube job. I have a friend who used it on the frame rails and the barrel of his S&W M 3913 that he shot IPSC with. The frame finally developed a little crack when he was approaching 50k rounds downrange. S&W cheerfully replaced his frame for nothing. They remarked that the minor amount of visual wear between the frame and the slide was unusual for a frame crack to develop. ...............

Lubes all work, but some run off & leave the gun dry after 2 days, & others like Tetra are still nice and gooey a year later. In 10 years or so, when I use up all my Tetra, I'll probably find a tub of wheel bearing, or disc brake caliper grease to use. GARY

I use Breakfree CLP. Even when I do not shoot it for a while, I unload it and lube the slide rails, then wipe the excess off and reload it.

Many years ago someone dumped a couple of boxes of gun stuff by the road. Everything from brass to parts. I picked it all up and found dozens of little containers of the grease used on M1 Garands. I've been using that grease for years and have a lot left. Seems to work real well.

Dang! I sure wish someone would dump a couple of boxes of gun stuff on my road.

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I'm gonna grow fins.

I actually have a tube of Krytox in my tool box at work. I use it on the O-rings and internal mechanisms of self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) during maintenance procedures.

It's used in missile assembly as well. I did some research and found that Krytox is actually a family of special lubricants, and they make one that has corrosion inhibitors which would be better suited for frame rails.

There are also some down-sides to Krytox. First, it ain't coming off, even if you want it off. There are special solvents to remove it, but it's impervious to regular solvents- good and bad I suppose. Also, I wouldn't use it in a full auto weapon because when it gets really hot it can off-gas some nasty fumes that'll mess you up. For normal pistol shooting it's as safe as anything else.

That said, if I had one of those $2,000 Sig X series guns, that's what I'd be using on the slide rails and barrel-to-bushing area.

Thanks for the responses. The 40-50K round counts in compact pistols is good news. I'll keep my current maintenance routine, then: grease the slide/frame rails and barrel/frame ramps, and oil the other moving parts.

I also have a few new stock recoil springs for the future...

I'm so old skool! I use Hoppe's oil on the easy sliding parts, and anything that takes a heavier beating than the slide rails, like the cams inside the frame gets Gunslick grease. Black moly stuff, messy but effective, and those little tubes last forever - like decades !

Up until this last year, I used Hoppes oil on all my guns. Now I'm using TW25b grease on everything but my compact .40's.

Over a decade ago (can't remember exactly) I requested one of those little samples of Militec grease. I have promised myself I will repay the favor by actually buying a tube just as soon as I use up all of the sample. For the most part I would say "grease is grease" but I think the Militec is maybe a decent bit better than the average lithium grease you buy at the auto parts store.

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After reading that report I feel guilty that I'm still using Lubriplate.

A lot of wear is self-limiting. Once things settle in, you won't see much more.
I'm sure it's normal and fine.
As others have said, keep guns lubed and replace the recoil spring every few thousand rounds and you're good!