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Old 11-12-2015, 12:16 AM
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Default Barrel threading

I've been out of .45 3Gs for a bit, but was arguing (politely) with a friend about threading a barrel for the 4566. I was pretty sure you could just get a 4506 barrel, thread it appropriately, and use that, but he thought that because of lockup you would need to have a regular 4566 barrel fitted with an attachment (the way they do with Beretta 21s) to keep the lockup.

I said I'd ask the pros.

Extra points for actual experience or pics.
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Old 11-12-2015, 12:33 AM
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If you are going to buy a barrel, why would you not just buy a threaded barrel to start with?
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Old 11-12-2015, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by colt_saa View Post
If you are going to buy a barrel, why would you not just buy a threaded barrel to start with?
Because threaded 4566 barrels are a bit thin on the ground?
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Old 11-12-2015, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunhobbit View Post
Because threaded 4566 barrels are a bit thin on the ground?
Sorry, I do not understand what "thin on the ground" means. What part of the barrel is thin? And how does that affect the threading?
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Old 11-12-2015, 02:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunhobbit View Post
I was pretty sure you could just get a 4506 barrel, thread it appropriately, and use that, but he thought that because of lockup you would need to have a regular 4566 barrel fitted with an attachment (the way they do with Beretta 21s) to keep the lockup.

I said I'd ask the pros.

Extra points for actual experience or pics.
You're on the right track. Take a 4506 barrel, turn down the bulge at the muzzle and cut threads. The remaining problem to solve is consistent lockup. The 4506 barrel will be vastly loose in the 4566 barrel bushing so....

You'd need to replicate that bulge/spherical bearing on the 4506 barrel set back 3/4" from the muzzle so the barrel is properly supported in the shorter 4566 slide.

Perhaps a short pressed on sleeve turned down on a lathe using a radius cutting tool would do.

Another idea I've been entertaining for another project is adapt a 1911 Briley bushing unit to fit a 3rd gen 45 slide I'm gonna order an oversize one and do some measuring. If it turns out it wont work I can always stick it on my Colt

Cheers
Bill
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Old 11-12-2015, 03:03 AM
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I second the notion of the tilting bushing, a la Briley, as opposed to adding a bulge on the barrel.
Never having tried it, I wonder if the outer ring of the Briley assy. is the same outer diameter as the pressed-in bushing?
Unfortunately, after the barrel was threaded, I wouldn't think there would be a whole lot someone could hang on it before function became compromised.
If the NRA sponsored legislation goes through, then I suppose we might be thinking about hanging a can out there. Some sort of slide lock mechanism would be in order then.

John
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Old 11-12-2015, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colt_saa View Post
Sorry, I do not understand what "thin on the ground" means. What part of the barrel is thin? And how does that affect the threading?
Your google is weak, young Jedi:

https://www.google.com/search?q=thin...nt=seamonkey-a

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Old 11-12-2015, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMCM View Post
You're on the right track. Take a 4506 barrel, turn down the bulge at the muzzle and cut threads. The remaining problem to solve is consistent lockup. The 4506 barrel will be vastly loose in the 4566 barrel bushing so....

You'd need to replicate that bulge/spherical bearing on the 4506 barrel set back 3/4" from the muzzle so the barrel is properly supported in the shorter 4566 slide.

Perhaps a short pressed on sleeve turned down on a lathe using a radius cutting tool would do.

Another idea I've been entertaining for another project is adapt a 1911 Briley bushing unit to fit a 3rd gen 45 slide I'm gonna order an oversize one and do some measuring. If it turns out it wont work I can always stick it on my Colt

Cheers
Bill
I will wait for THAT thread with high anticipation - mostly because it'll let me "nyah nyah" my buddy.
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Old 11-12-2015, 04:07 PM
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Since the barrel recoils when the pistol is fired, adding the mass of a suppressor to the mass of the barrel will affect the cycling of the pistol. Threading the barrel and adding the suppressor will not work. The suppressor must have a compensator in it to add energy to the cycling mass to help overcome the extra mass of the suppressor.
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Last edited by BigBoy99; 11-12-2015 at 04:07 PM. Reason: Typo!
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Old 11-12-2015, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunhobbit View Post
I've been out of .45 3Gs for a bit, but was arguing (politely) with a friend about threading a barrel for the 4566. I was pretty sure you could just get a 4506 barrel, thread it appropriately, and use that, but he thought that because of lockup you would need to have a regular 4566 barrel fitted with an attachment (the way they do with Beretta 21s) to keep the lockup.

I said I'd ask the pros.

Extra points for actual experience or pics.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1142081...81576408384274



Top to bottom

3914
908
4513TSW

Alot of cans out there now that don't need a booster, check Thompson Machine

Last edited by svlwolf; 11-12-2015 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 11-12-2015, 05:44 PM
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BMCM got it figured out
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  #12  
Old 11-14-2015, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svlwolf View Post
https://picasaweb.google.com/1142081...81576408384274



Top to bottom

3914
908
4513TSW

Alot of cans out there now that don't need a booster, check Thompson Machine
Nice!!! Any idea where those were done? Or how? The link doesn't work for me but the pic is GORGEOUS!
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