I was having FTE about every 3rd round and always the first round. My cure was to bend the ejector slightly in to hit more of the rim. I also got Volquartsen's new extractor for the SW22. I cured the loose takedown with a split washer the fits so good it stays in the frame. I also put in there SS fluted barrel.

I have the same ejection problems. Found the ejector was bent outward .080". I moved it inward from center (center being the back of the ejector under the welds) .010" or .25mm and found that it seemed to rub excessively on the inside groove of the firing pin housing when cycling.. So, I straightened the ejector, it does not rub now. Waiting on the weekend to try again!

Update: It ran without flaw using at least 100 rounds of each CCI mini mag, Blazer and Aguila HV.
Next full cleaning the Tandemkross target trigger and the Volquartzen ejector gets installed.

Volquartsen now offers a replacement extractor for the SW22 Victory. I installed one in my Victory.

I had a similar ejection problem on my victory. I'm left handed and found that my thumb would ride up and cover part of the ejection port. If you impede the casing flight ever so slightly, it would hand up on the empty case.

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Mike in SouthCentral Kentucky

Thank you so much for the tip about slightly bending the ejector. I went from 1 to 2 jams per mag. to over 250 rounds without a hiccup. also I had a problem with the take-down screw loosening, and someone on the forum suggested teflon tape. Worked like a charm. So far this forum has solved two problems with the Victory for me. Thanks again

I used the slight "bend the ejector a couple of mms inwards) suggestion and removed the magazine safety. No more FTE or FTFs (although I had three in my first magazine. I finished firing the seven and loaded the three. Two fired. The third would not even fire in a revolver turning it 360 degrees every time. Waiting to receive O-rings in the Mail. In Canada, several hardware shops did not know what a #61 was or a #36.

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NFA CSSA CCFR (Canada), NRA

Different manufactures number their o-rings differently. For example, I've seen the #61 also labeled 007. It should be about 9/32" OD x 5/32" ID x 1/16 thick.

The Danco#36 is 5/16 OD 3/16 ID x 1/16
I've got a parcel in the mail.

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NFA CSSA CCFR (Canada), NRA

Good news:
I bought mine several months ago for use in speed steel matches. Major issues with extraction, double feeds, and bending live rounds. All with even quality ammo. Sent it in for factory service to no avail. I was very hesitant to bend any interior parts.

I fixed the FTE issue by installing a Volquartzen ejector. $16.00 plus shipping. It will now eat even old garbage lead hollowpoints. Ureka! Worth every penny.

Additionally, I saw a post about fixing the upper frame screw loosening issue. The simple fix is a common rubber O ring from the local hardware store. Just take the screw down for proper sizing.

Now not embarrassed to shoot matches with it. Runs great.

I also have several accessory mods from Tandemkross. They are great to work with.

Next mods are Tandemkross target trigger and then trying to find a decent fast draw holster. (oh, no one makes them yet)

Hope this helps.........

Paul
"First TWO shots on target wins"

This is where I will need help and very detailed instructions. I hardly ever play with the innards of my guns. I have once, a few years ago, received very detailed instructions on replacing some part od My Ruger Mark III 22/45 with Volquartsen parts.
Now I need help with my SW22 Victory.
I had the usual problems. FTF/FTE. Resolved with very light minimal bending inwards of the ejector rod as mentioned before.
Takedown screw turned very first time; I didn't have to use Herculean efforts or send the gun back (and I'm in Canada.)
Then used an O-ring and it stays put.
I have an Exact Edge Extractor from Volquartsen on the way and I have no idea (couldn't find any material, VQ or SW or Youtube) how to install it. I have been reviewing ththe Ruger 22/45 instructions but am not confident that they would translate well for the sw.
I am going to subscribe to this thread hoping to find notifications of a good SW Samaritan post with detailed instructions. Cheers all.

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NFA CSSA CCFR (Canada), NRA

I did it and am looking for the video I used when I replaced the extractor with a Volquartsen. As soon as I find it I'll post the link.

At the 1:42 mark, he is taking the extractor out:

After about 1500 rounds through mine the TAC-22 now works fine. So I added them to the list of usable rounds.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

Not the ideal instruction video when he's disassembling with a few Oooopses and Let's see if this works. However his re-assembly of the firing pin (which I won't be touching) and the re-installation of the extractor is clear.)
Thanks for the link.

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NFA CSSA CCFR (Canada), NRA

I have found the TK video.
The title or name of the video is NOT a helpful clue.

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NFA CSSA CCFR (Canada), NRA

I have to concur. For anyone who had feed issues, check the ejector first. Mine was of just a tick and a little TLC with needle nose pliers fixed mine. The ejector absolutely has to be in a sweet spot to push the spent case out properly.

njsarn, thank you, very helpful.
Feel free to make a second post!

>>for my YL (young Lady).<<

Anyone who uses that term must be an amateur radio operator. :-)

tryed Winchester super x and blazer out had numerous failures 300 rounds thru gun total and extractor plunger and spring are mia

That seems to be an all too common problem. Send it back to S&W, they will cover the shipping both ways.

So far that adjustment has taken 28 day since they received it! Not at all happy with this "New pistol repair time"!

I am so disappointed with this gun. I have been to the range with it twice. Both times my Fte were ridiculous. At least 6 out of 10. I hate this gun! Both trips to the range it went back in the case and I brought out my Sig Sauer!

This was the tweak I tried (even a smaller distance) and a few hundred rounds later I had only one (1) FTF/FTE. There was no powder loaded. A dud round.

I guess that for "some" shooters, the YMMV dictum applies.

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NFA CSSA CCFR (Canada), NRA

A little Loctite 242 will solve the loose thread problem. How do I know? The factory sent me a new takedown screw with that on it!

Bend the ejector a bit to engage more camming action on the empty shell. Bend it inward about 1 mm., check that it still rides in the ejector groove on the underside of the bolt body. I have repaired 4 Victories using this method. Look at the diagram posted earlier on how to bend the ejector. It works 99%of the time.

Take down screw: a little dab of locktite blue, and then use a Wheeler Fat wrench and torque to 30 inch pounds. You can still disassemble with ease, but have no loosening until you want to remove it. I have shot over 1000 rounds thru the gun without the screw loosening during shooting.

Have fun and shoot safe !!

Wonder what happened to johnny bam and his Victory issue, he went bam! on day 1 and never returned.

There is a 5 week turnaround as of 9/1/2017

Welcome to the forum.
I'd be more frustrated with heavy handed gunsmithing if I were you.

Thanks for the pictures, New gun not ejecting, not a gun smith so was lost. Had attempted to make this adjustment after reading several posts and couple you tube videos. Didn't have good results, found your post and pics and at least two magazines were perfect.

Yep, njsarn deserves a medal, or at least a "Well Done!" for posting those pics & tips. Worked like a charm on my Victory too.

Great youtube Sarge as we just got a Victory with ftf fte issues. Video showed where everything was and where everything fits.
6 years Army n 17 years Air Force.
First love Army!!!

I have a new Victory that developed this problem after 700 rounds. The first 700 were flawless and then every third round failed to eject.

I figured it had to be either the extractor or ejector or a combination. I contacted Smith and talked them into sending me a new extractor, plunger and spring. I installed these parts and did a thorough cleaning. The new parts helped but didn’t totally resolve the problem.

Next I did another thorough cleaning and lubed well and bent the ejector (not extractor) inward a couple thousandths. The seemed to resolve my issue. I did another thorough cleaning and took it to the range and shot 300+ rounds with only one FTE.

Since you’re is new give it a try.

When doing the "bending" of the ejector, do you bend the entire length of the ejector or just the front half that is narrower?

I've just acquired my own SW22 this past week, essentially a new gun.


The extractor issue at 500-700 rounds is worsening, at least on mine.
And the Customer Service says it has a magazine release spring I needed "on backorder" as in "the only way you'll get one is to ship the gun to us for service" as all parts are going to the build line.


Direct quote "We are in the business of selling guns, not selling parts".
5-6 week turn around for a frigging spring???


I will be tuning & buffing out this SW22 as it seems to have incredible promise. Glad to read the posts on problem solving above.

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Dum vivimus Vivamas

I know this thread has been dead for over a year but thought I would throw in my two cents. Always had occasional problems with my SW22 not ejecting, jamming up and just being a pain. My wife had the same problem so when we sent it back to Smith & Wesson to replace the junk barrel that it had, they tweaked the ejection problem also. So yesterday hers had maybe two fte's at the range, I was getting one about every 4-5th round. Looked at this thread again and decided I was going to either try to fix the problem or buy a new receiver. I looked at her ejector position compared to mine the way it lays in the bolt groove and it finally jumped out and bit me. Her ejector lays perfectly parallel in the groove of the bolt while mine was slight bent outward away from the center of the receiver. So I took my smooth jaw precision needle nose pliers and tweaked the thin part of the ejector to make it lay parallel in the groove. It doesn't take much force so move it gently. I'm guessing you want the ejector to lay as close to parallel in the groove as possible to work properly, if not I'll tweak it a little more. Hope this helps any new SW22 owners who isn't sure what's causing all the FTE problems. I won't get to test it out until Sunday at the range but I have a lot of faith this will cure my problem. You can see the difference in the two pictures between the before and after. Note in the before pic how the gap between the ejector and the bolt groove widens the closer it gets to the end of the ejector. Sorry for the sloppy highlighting, hard to draw with a trackball.

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	after.jpg (47.9 KB, 216 views)

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SW22 Victory(2),Sigs(4)

I think you are on the right path. I wouldn't be surprised if you don't have to tweak it in just a little more to get perfect ejection results.

Thank you for your reply. You think I better try it before tweaking it a little more? So for best results, the tip of the ejector needs to be slightly bent past center of bolt groove opposite of what I started with? Thanks again for your help.

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SW22 Victory(2),Sigs(4)

Yes, I would try it first. It may be fine.

Will do and thanks again!!

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SW22 Victory(2),Sigs(4)

Well luckily the weather was nice enough for some range time and I must say I am now loving my SW22!! I threw 3-4 different brands of ammo at it after the ejector tweaking and it NEVER failed once even with 30-40 rounds of Thunder ammo!! I was so happy I could stand there and pull the trigger as fast as I wanted and not have to stop and fix a jammed casing every 4th or 5th round. The target is after about 200+ rounds. Thanks again for the help, hopefully it will perform flawlessly for many more years to come.

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SW22 Victory(2),Sigs(4)

Olemil is 100% correct.

Stovepiping, Failure to eject, slide getting stuck , loading 2 bullets same time. 6 out of 10 failed multiply times

All fixed with the suggestion of the illustration where you change the ejector and make it parallel both left to right to slide and flatten the tilt of the angle some so its not as tilted as "much" We didnt go overboard with the needle nose plyers. Just a slight twist, and straighten, doesnt need to be 100% a small amount is all you need careful due to the welds. Try small amount and shoot until works.

My brother shot hundreds of round after this no failures.

I will post the before and after olemil posted basically thats the answer to all the problems.

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	Screenshot_20210424-194502_DuckDuckGo.jpg (58.5 KB, 84 views)

I can't find a current article but mine purchased in 2021 has a similar problem and probably worse. I cleaned it before using. It had a lot of failure to ejects for the first 50 or so. I cleaned it again and it seemed OK for the next 100-150 then went to complete failure to eject. Rounds stuck in the chamber that I need to use a stick to remove. The range guy said that my ejector was broken. I then found a small piece on the table that was probably part of the ejector that fell off. It was small and straight with didn't look like an ejector that usually has a hook, right? I'm sending this back to S&W. I'm surprised that this has been going on for years and they haven't fixed it.

Thank you as well. This worked

I guess I'm glad I passed on buying a Victory and instead bought a brand new Mk IV Ruger target. Zero issues with the Ruger - perfect functioning out of the box, quite accurate and takedown is a snap.

I own 12 Ruger .22s; from the first standard to the Mark IV. The only one I didn't like was the Mark III - designed by lawyers - its superfluous doodads and "safety features" screwed with the simplicity of the Mark II, which to my mind was perfect - everything you needed and nothing you didn't. Disassembly of the Mark III model became a nightmare.

I had an ejection problem with only one Ruger - it was a Mark I target model. I tweaked the ejector inward with needle-nosed pliers in exactly the manner described here for the Victory. There is indeed a sweet spot for the ejector to strike on the empty case as it comes out of the chamber - once found, the problem never happened again on that Ruger. Those Ruger ejectors were evidently properly heat treated; never had one break after many thousands of rounds downrange.

For the record, as many know here, I'm a great S&W fan, but am extremely disappointed in their apparent lack of effective quality control on products shipped in recent years. I admit to being a traditionalist, and way prefer older S&W products, both with revolvers and semiautos. Like the old Timex commercials used to say, they take a lickin' and keep on tickin'. I'm appalled at reading about the problems many are having with the Victory.

John

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- Cogito, ergo armatus sum -

Thank you. I had a FTE every other round. Did this and shot 200 Rds with no issues.

Big Kudos to njsarn and others for the write-up.

Just purchased a SW22 PC Edit and surely, first mag, a couple of FTEs. Frustrating that after several years of production they still have an issue of this.

Nevertheless, I pulled out the digital calipers and measure the depth of the ejector in relation to the slide, added about -.3mm of bend (tweak) and went back out to test. First two magazines - NO ISSUES! Awesome.

I tried Federals Auto Match and Aguila Super Extras with no issues.

Now I can focus on practicing instead of FTEs. Thanks a lot gents!

Think my granddaughter's 21st birthday present will be Victory like mine. She loves to shoot it. At least now I know if it has ejection problems what to do. Luckily, mine doesn't. Thanks for the pics on the easy fix.

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Why duck?? It's a 9mm!

Just chiming in to say that bending the ejector inwards toward the centerline of the receiver worked for me, as well. I bought a new Performance Center SW22, and it jammed every round. Yes, every round, right out of the box. I joined this forum exclusively to see the photos in this thread and thought that adding a recent comment was the least I could do to contribute. Again, post-bend=perfect feeding and ejecting.

Also joined today to see the pics. Will be trying the bend fix soon. Would like to know what percent have this problem out of the box. I'm pissed that this is something that can be checked w/ a simple gauge before leaving the factory but has not been addressed for 5 years. My first S&W has made a bad 1st impression.

Welcome to the forum. Only S&W knows what percent of Victory pistols are returned for service on this issue, I'm guessing that it is relatively low, but certainly enough to get a lot of discussion on forums. I'm also guessing that test firing is no longer part of the production process on these pistols anymore, that part of the process is left up to us.

Idk, mine must have been made Tue-Thu.
It's been dead nuts reliable.
One thing I do with any new semi is have a drink and start racking the slide up to 500 times, and then shoot quality ammo.
The bolt needs to be cleaned occasionally.
Just my experience.