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Old 03-08-2016, 06:40 AM
MS88 MS88 is offline
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Default New S&W 4566TSW Owner - Couple Questions

Hey everybody. Since I got really into guns a few years ago I always had an interested in a steel-frame (or alloy) S&W but never really found any for sale, for whatever reason. I thought they'd be more common but I rarely saw them on Armslist or used in shops.

Traded my 1911 for a better deal, so I was looking for another .45. Came across this like-new S&W 4566TSW for $450 (private party) with 3 mags and 2 Holsters. No box unfortunately, but it's in awesome condition and I'm really happy with what I paid for the quality I got. Only thing I don't like are the Hogue grips on it - they're pretty damn fat and I have somewhat large hands.

I'm most likely going to order the factory grips (unsure if flat or arched) and I'm hoping they'll be much thinner in profile like a 1911 or my CZ P-07. Anyway, under the Hogue grips there is a pin towards the very bottom rear of the frame near the magwell... I'm hoping that is the pin that is used to retain the factory grips? I'm assuming it is but I don't want to get the original grips to find I'm missing the pin.

I'm new to the older S&W semi-autos but I've seen models with plugs where the Safety/Decocker is on my 4566. I really do not like slide controls, especially when they overlap the serrations and making slide manipulation awkward, especially on such a great gun like this 4566TSW. I got to wondering if it would be possible to remove the safety/decocker assembly entirely and put the plugs in the slide. I'm not sure if the assembly has any function in retaining the Firing Pin, but from the disassembly video I've seen and looking at the diagram, it appears not to.

I'm aware that (if even possible) removing the Decocker/Safety may be questionable to some, but this will be exclusively a range gun and I prefer no safeties anyways. I don't want to permanently modify my new, beautiful 4566TSW but I'd really just like to have a smooth slide with no controls and if it's actually possible (and parts available) I may consider it. I almost always end up trading or selling for something better but I already know this 4566 is a keeper.

Thanks for any advice and forgive my ignorance if this seems like a stupid thing to do.
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:16 AM
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Welcome to the forum! And congrats on the new 4566TSW! One of the finest 45s made. IMO of course.

The factory Xenoy grips are thinner than the Hogue rubber grips. They are also redily available at Midway and Numrichs as well as on the auction boards and fleabay. While they are thinner they are not quite as thin as 1911 grip panels. They are close though.

By "removing the levers and installing the plugs" you will have to render your 4566TSW double action only. Given the lack of interest by the factory in doing anything other than selling plastic guns, I don't know where you would look to have this done. It is not something one should attempt on their own unless you are a factory trained armorer.

The gun that comes with the features you are looking for is the 4586. It was also made with the TSW features as the 4586TSW. It is slick slide and DAO from the factory.

You may find someone who has one to trade with you here. Or you could place your gun for sale and purchase one with the proceeds. In my experience they go for less than the TDA guns, usually, and it will be probably less money than the conversion you are contemplating in the long run. Good luck! Hope this helps! Regards 18DAI
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MS88 View Post
Anyway, under the Hogue grips there is a pin towards the very bottom rear of the frame near the magwell... I'm hoping that is the pin that is used to retain the factory grips?
Correct

Smith & Wesson Factory Grips Straight S&W 4563TSW 4566TSW 4583TSW

Smith & Wesson Factory Grips Curved S&W 1006 1066 1086 4506 4546 4566
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:37 AM
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Welcome to the forum! And congrats on the new 4566TSW! One of the finest 45s made. IMO of course.

The factory Xenoy grips are thinner than the Hogue rubber grips. They are also redily available at Midway and Numrichs as well as on the auction boards and fleabay. While they are thinner they are not quite as thin as 1911 grip panels. They are close though.

By "removing the levers and installing the plugs" you will have to render your 4566TSW double action only. Given the lack of interest by the factory in doing anything other than selling plastic guns, I don't know where you would look to have this done. It is not something one should attempt on their own unless you are a factory trained armorer.

The gun that comes with the features you are looking for is the 4586. It was also made with the TSW features as the 4586TSW. It is slick slide and DAO from the factory.

You may find someone who has one to trade with you here. Or you could place your gun for sale and purchase one with the proceeds. In my experience they go for less than the TDA guns, usually, and it will be probably less money than the conversion you are contemplating in the long run. Good luck! Hope this helps! Regards 18DAI
Oh, I hate double action. I only shoot single action really. For instance, my CZ P-07 is DA/SA but has a safety I never use, so that's what I'm hoping to achieve with the 4566 by deleting the decocker/safety assembly. If all it does it push the decocker pawl and push down the ejector to disable the trigger, then it should be doable in theory.
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Old 03-08-2016, 12:49 PM
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It's more complex than you describe. Among other things, the safety, which is connected to the lever, rotates to block the firing pin. You can find diagrams on line that show all of the components of the safety.

18DAI know far more about the workings of the 3rd Gen guns than I do. That said, there are a couple of factory trained 3rd Gen armorers that know almost all there is to know about the guns. I'll just say that the left decocker/safety lever is the visible part of the mechanism. As is the right, but it's detachable, unlike the left.

The 4566TSW is a great gun, you should have no trouble selling it if you decide it's not your cup of tea.

There were two 4500 series models made with frame mounted decockers. Unfortunately, they were made only one year and are hard, if not impossible to find.

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Originally Posted by MS88 View Post
Oh, I hate double action. I only shoot single action really. For instance, my CZ P-07 is DA/SA but has a safety I never use, so that's what I'm hoping to achieve with the 4566 by deleting the decocker/safety assembly. If all it does it push the decocker pawl and push down the ejector to disable the trigger, then it should be doable in theory.
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Old 03-08-2016, 02:15 PM
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Welcome and that's a nice pistol you picked up.
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Old 03-08-2016, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MS88 View Post
I'm new to the older S&W semi-autos but I've seen models with plugs where the Safety/Decocker is on my 4566. I really do not like slide controls, especially when they overlap the serrations and making slide manipulation awkward, especially on such a great gun like this 4566TSW. I got to wondering if it would be possible to remove the safety/decocker assembly entirely and put the plugs in the slide. I'm not sure if the assembly has any function in retaining the Firing Pin, but from the disassembly video I've seen and looking at the diagram, it appears not to.

I'm aware that (if even possible) removing the Decocker/Safety may be questionable to some, but this will be exclusively a range gun and I prefer no safeties anyways. I don't want to permanently modify my new, beautiful 4566TSW but I'd really just like to have a smooth slide with no controls and if it's actually possible (and parts available) I may consider it. I almost always end up trading or selling for something better but I already know this 4566 is a keeper.

Thanks for any advice and forgive my ignorance if this seems like a stupid thing to do.
Welcome to the forum!

Yes, it can be done and quite easily.
Substituting the "firing pin retainer" from the 4586TSW for the "manual safety assembly" from your 4566TSW will provide you with the smooth slide you desire.
Your pistol will still operate in DA/SA mode but will have NO MANUAL SAFETY!!!
Decocking the hammer will require you to press the trigger while lowering the hammer with your thumb.
While us revolver guys have been doing that since the late 1800's, it is kinda frightening to some people.

As it involves removing one of the safety devices, it would be wise to proceed with caution and give this some real thought.

If you choose to do it, I can provide you with details.

Prepare for gasps of horror to follow.

John
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Old 03-08-2016, 04:59 PM
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Welcome to the forum!

Yes, it can be done and quite easily.
Substituting the "firing pin retainer" from the 4586TSW for the "manual safety assembly" from your 4566TSW will provide you with the smooth slide you desire.
Your pistol will still operate in DA/SA mode but will have NO MANUAL SAFETY!!!
Decocking the hammer will require you to press the trigger while lowering the hammer with your thumb.
While us revolver guys have been doing that since the late 1800's, it is kinda frightening to some people.

As it involves removing one of the safety devices, it would be wise to proceed with caution and give this some real thought.

If you choose to do it, I can provide you with details.

Prepare for gasps of horror to follow.

John
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Old 03-08-2016, 05:50 PM
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and welcome!

Many guys that start with S&W third gens don't start with that model. You jumped right into the deep end of the pool

And watch out for the "gentlemen" on this forum. They are enablers. I stopped by a few years ago for a little advice and they advised me to buy this one and that one and........

Enjoy,
Lad
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnHL View Post
Welcome to the forum!

Yes, it can be done and quite easily.
Substituting the "firing pin retainer" from the 4586TSW for the "manual safety assembly" from your 4566TSW will provide you with the smooth slide you desire.
Your pistol will still operate in DA/SA mode but will have NO MANUAL SAFETY!!!
Decocking the hammer will require you to press the trigger while lowering the hammer with your thumb.
While us revolver guys have been doing that since the late 1800's, it is kinda frightening to some people.

As it involves removing one of the safety devices, it would be wise to proceed with caution and give this some real thought.

If you choose to do it, I can provide you with details.

Prepare for gasps of horror to follow.

John
Thanks for the awesome info, man. I generally like to tinker and like the 4566TSW so much that I'm willing to do the bit of research and hopefully find the couple parts necessary. I watched a detailed slide disassembly video (linked below) and removing the Decocker/safety assembly appears to be relatively easy if I buy some punches.

I'd appreciate if you'd help me with more details and what all is required.

Slide disassembly:
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Laddy Smith View Post
and welcome!

Many guys that start with S&W third gens don't start with that model. You jumped right into the deep end of the pool

And watch out for the "gentlemen" on this forum. They are enablers. I stopped by a few years ago for a little advice and they advised me to buy this one and that one and........

Enjoy,
Lad
Thanks for the welcome, I'm happy to finally own a Smith semi-auto that looks and feels great to me (I REALLY don't like the M&P). Quality on this 4566TSW is pretty great and I like the slide markings. From what I understand, though not sure how much of it is marketing, the TSW models are a bit tighter and mine feels like it. Slide/frame fit is as good as any 1911 I've seen and the slide is smooth as butter. The 3rd gen I linked in the video above had some pretty bad tooling marks but mine is pretty well polished at all the contact points.

Tried to find some literature on the TSW guns but didn't see a whole lot out there. Any of you guys know what kind of steel was used for the Frame and Slide? These were sold before my time but I'm sure they weren't cheap and probably competed with the HK USP and such.

Funny how I ended up with the 4566.. I bought a new 4" 586 about a month ago and sold it because it was slightly bigger than I like for a Revolver. I have a Colt Trooper Mk. III 6" and prefer the balance of that to the L-frame Smiths. I almost ordered a new 66 and should have, I think. Anyways, I traded my 1911 for a 4.2" Ruger SP101 which left me looking for another .45, and used some of the cash left over from selling the 586 to buy the 4566 after I talked him down to $450.

The 586 was nice and a beautiful gun, but I just really like the size and balance of a K frame or my Trooper Mk. III. I'm hoping to find a 19 or 66 with some wear for a reasonable price but the SP101 4.2" is a good range gun for now.
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Old 03-10-2016, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MS88 View Post
Thanks for the awesome info, man. I generally like to tinker and like the 4566TSW so much that I'm willing to do the bit of research and hopefully find the couple parts necessary. I watched a detailed slide disassembly video and removing the Decocker/safety assembly appears to be relatively easy if I buy some punches.

I'd appreciate if you'd help me with more details and what all is required.
Since you have given it some thought and decided to proceed I will give you the details:

Replace the "Decocker/safety assembly" with the "Firing pin retainer" from the 4586TSW. Re-use the plunger and spring from your safety in the retainer.

That's it. One part.

Oh yeah. One more thing.
Keep your muzzle pointed in a safe direction when decocking.

Let me know how you like it.

John
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Old 03-10-2016, 03:51 AM
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The S&W PN# for the 4586TSW's firing pin retainer is #266920000 ($43.01 old catalog price, new). The catalog also lists a firing pin retainer spacer, #233880000. My 4586 (non-TSW) doesn't have one & I can't say if it's needed on the TSWs or just an optional "fit" part.

S&W may have it. Numrich list it as available: Firing Pin Retainer, Stainless Gun Parts | 347300 | Numrich Gun Parts

Just one other thought on the TDA's decocker/blocker. I personally like having the decocker/blocker down whenever I'm loading/unloading my 3rd Gen, & not in a safe environment, e.g. range. It's just comforting to know you've greatly eliminated the likelihood of an accidental discharge by physically blocking the firing pin from the hammer.

.
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Old 03-10-2016, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by BLUEDOT37 View Post
The S&W PN# for the 4586TSW's firing pin retainer is #266920000 ($43.01 old catalog price, new). The catalog also lists a firing pin retainer spacer, #233880000. My 4586 (non-TSW) doesn't have one & I can't say if it's needed on the TSWs or just an optional "fit" part.
The "firing pin retainer spacer" is the substitute for the "sear release lever" and is used only on DAO pistols.

Quote:
S&W may have it. Numrich list it as available: Firing Pin Retainer, Stainless Gun Parts | 347300 | Numrich Gun Parts
The "firing pin retainer" linked to here is for the standard model DAO pistols and not for the TSW model owned by the OP.

Quote:
Just one other thought on the TDA's decocker/blocker. I personally like having the decocker/blocker down whenever I'm loading/unloading my 3rd Gen, & not in a safe environment, e.g. range. It's just comforting to know you've greatly eliminated the likelihood of an accidental discharge by physically blocking the firing pin from the hammer.
While the firing pin would still be blocked by the firing pin safety, I could not agree more that the disabling of any safety device must be approached with caution.

John
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Old 03-10-2016, 04:53 AM
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The "firing pin retainer spacer" is the substitute for the "sear release lever" and is used only on DAO pistols.
.

The "firing pin retainer" linked to here is for the standard model DAO pistols and not for the TSW model owned by the OP.
.

Oh yeah, I remember about the "spacers" now. Thanks for adding.
.

Oops! Numrich does list a firing pin retainer for a 4583TSW & is half the price of the non-TSW. I got side tracked & posted the wrong one. Thanks for noticing.
Firing Pin Retainer, Stainless, Factory Original, New Gun Parts | 1088040 | Numrich Gun Parts

.
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnHL View Post
Since you have given it some thought and decided to proceed I will give you the details:

Replace the "Decocker/safety assembly" with the "Firing pin retainer" from the 4586TSW. Re-use the plunger and spring from your safety in the retainer.

That's it. One part.

Oh yeah. One more thing.
Keep your muzzle pointed in a safe direction when decocking.

Let me know how you like it.

John
Thanks again. Really impressed with the trigger on this gun. DA is relatively light and silky smooth and SA is probably 4 pounds with an extremely clean break with no overtravel. Reset is maybe the shortest I've ever felt, equal or better than a Walther PPQ which is pretty much the gold standard. If/When I find a 9mm 3rd gen I'll be a happy guy if the trigger is close to this good. Not even sure if the TSW trigger is different in any way but I don't remember reading that it was when glossing over some old Ad.

You guys with 3rd Gens probably get used to it but it just feels uncomfortable as hell racking the slide with the Decocker levers pointing forward. Recoil spring feels pretty strong for a full-mass .45 slide but this gun appears to have been barely fired at all. Maybe they lighten up a bit over time. My first .45, an old Ruger P90, had a similar size/weight slide but the recoil spring was WAY less strong. I suspect the Smith could run a lot of +P ammo without issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEDOT37 View Post
The S&W PN# for the 4586TSW's firing pin retainer is #266920000 ($43.01 old catalog price, new). The catalog also lists a firing pin retainer spacer, #233880000. My 4586 (non-TSW) doesn't have one & I can't say if it's needed on the TSWs or just an optional "fit" part.

S&W may have it. Numrich list it as available: Firing Pin Retainer, Stainless Gun Parts | 347300 | Numrich Gun Parts

Just one other thought on the TDA's decocker/blocker. I personally like having the decocker/blocker down whenever I'm loading/unloading my 3rd Gen, & not in a safe environment, e.g. range. It's just comforting to know you've greatly eliminated the likelihood of an accidental discharge by physically blocking the firing pin from the hammer.

.
Thanks for the link. Sucks that it's a $50 part but I know it's going to be well worth it once it's installed. I'm cheap so I tried to find a used one on Gunbroker and Ebay but found nothing for cheaper. Smooth slide, Mag Disconnect disabled and factory grips and this gun will be a damn near perfect DA/SA .45 to me. I'm really glad I ended up with this over a Sig P220 that I was considering. Hoping I can find an original box and materials some day to complete the package.
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:16 AM
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.

Oh yeah, I remember about the "spacers" now. Thanks for adding.
.

Oops! Numrich does list a firing pin retainer for a 4583TSW & is half the price of the non-TSW. I got side tracked & posted the wrong one. Thanks for noticing.
Firing Pin Retainer, Stainless, Factory Original, New Gun Parts | 1088040 | Numrich Gun Parts

.
Oh man, thanks for finding that. Can have factory grips AND the retainer for $50 now. Good deal
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:14 AM
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I'm confused here. So these parts get installed in the slide, eliminating the decocker paddles. Ok, got that. Then the 4566TSW is STILL DA/SA??? How do you decock it after racking the slide to load it? With your thumb and forefinger letting the hammer down?

Or are you guys talking about carrying it around cocked and unlocked? What am I missing here? Thanks! Regards18DAI
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:40 AM
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I'm confused here. So these parts get installed in the slide, eliminating the decocker paddles. Ok, got that. Then the 4566TSW is STILL DA/SA??? How do you decock it after racking the slide to load it? With your thumb and forefinger letting the hammer down?



Or are you guys talking about carrying it around cocked and unlocked? What am I missing here? Thanks! Regards18DAI

Sounds like it 18DAI. I thought the mods would've already been all over this. Heck of a lot of liability to go around after the ND. I for one hope nobody's hurt, maimed, or killed.
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Old 03-11-2016, 02:27 AM
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How do you decock it after racking the slide to load it? With your thumb and forefinger letting the hammer down?
That would seem so & with a bobbed hammer that's even more difficult. I believe if once you start manually lowering the hammer, and you fully release the trigger, the firing pin safety will be engaged & resist the hammers impact when you release it the last little bit? But if you continue to hold the trigger rearward the firing pin safety will not be engaged; not good.

Either way, I agree it reduces the safety of the pistol for sure.

.
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Old 03-11-2016, 02:56 AM
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Agree 100% that it reduces the "safety" of the pistol and admittedly it takes it outside of it's design. Many would argue that you should NEVER employ it in any manner of defense for the simple liability of having to explain (gasp!) that you willfully altered a safety feature.

-HOWEVER!-

Beyond that...
Are ya guys kidding with us here?
You cannot seriously believe this is dangerous... really?

You'd now have to decock the pistol in the same exact way you'd decock a 1911. Or any revolver or ANY semiauto ever built that has an exposed hammer and no decock lever of some sort.

A 3rd Gen with SA/DA operation and no decocker is not at all an "unsafe" handgun unless/until it is in the hands of a fool.

Anybody care to have an adult discussion on how some ADDED safety features incidentally promote POOR gun handling?
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Old 03-11-2016, 06:25 AM
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A 1911 is designed to be carried cocked and locked. A 4566 is not a 1911. Thats one of the reasons I love the 4566.

I would never suggest to anyone that it is wise, or safe practice, to lower the hammer on a l911, with a loaded chamber, using your thumb and forefinger. IMO that is not safe gun handling and begging for a ND. IF you do that, you are not operating the gun as it was designed.

The 4566 was designed to use a decocker to safely lower the hammer on a loaded chamber. A 4566 is not a revolver. And I cannot think of a single DA/SA designed pistol that does not have a decocker incorporated to safely lower the hammer on a loaded chamber.

So put me on the list of those who SERIOUSLY thinks this is not only a bad idea, but right up near the top of the list of bad ideas. Good luck to those who operate handguns outside of their designed parameters or try to turn perfectly designed DA/SA pistols into 1911's. Regards 18DAI
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Old 03-11-2016, 07:22 AM
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There is NO WAY to lower the hammer on a loaded and cocked 1911 without doing exactly that. You must defeat the thumb safety and the grip safety AND press the trigger.

On a double action S&W revolver -- once it is cocked, you don't even have the option of unloading it as you do with a 4566 or 1911. You must press the trigger and carefully lower the hammer.
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:02 AM
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So put me on the list of those who SERIOUSLY thinks this is not only a bad idea, but right up near the top of the list of bad ideas. Good luck to those who operate handguns outside of their designed parameters or try to turn perfectly designed DA/SA pistols into 1911's.
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There is NO WAY to lower the hammer on a loaded and cocked 1911 without doing exactly that. You must defeat the thumb safety and the grip safety AND press the trigger.
I've stayed quiet so far on the OP's rather dubious proposed mod to his 4566TSW... but I have to go along with 18DAI on this one point re: 1911's. I've never carried either of my 1911's, but I sure as heck wouldn't put them in (and carry them) in Condition 2. It seems like an ND just waiting to happen at some point.

Is it possible to do this safely? Of course it is. Is it a really good idea long-term? I don't think so.
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Old 03-11-2016, 10:36 AM
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Agree 100% that it reduces the "safety" of the pistol and admittedly it takes it outside of it's design. Many would argue that you should NEVER employ it in any manner of defense for the simple liability of having to explain (gasp!) that you willfully altered a safety feature.



-HOWEVER!-



Beyond that...

Are ya guys kidding with us here?

You cannot seriously believe this is dangerous... really?



You'd now have to decock the pistol in the same exact way you'd decock a 1911. Or any revolver or ANY semiauto ever built that has an exposed hammer and no decock lever of some sort.



A 3rd Gen with SA/DA operation and no decocker is not at all an "unsafe" handgun unless/until it is in the hands of a fool.



Anybody care to have an adult discussion on how some ADDED safety features incidentally promote POOR gun handling?

Yeah, you talk like such an expert in the hobby. Instead of studying the manual of arms and the mechanics you ask for others input on altering the safety mechanisms of an excellently engineered and inherently safe pistol. As if somehow your interest in changing these features is justified because you hate the TDA design.

Then when confronted, you decide to that you want to have an adult discussion about safety features?

You epitomize all that most in our community and hobby disdain, and give the gun haters ever more fodder.
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:53 AM
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Exclamation Here's an idea

As usual, I agree with my friend 18DAI.

I am a mechanical engineer who does forensic engineering for a living. There are also several attorneys on the Forum.
If the OP would modify the gun, have an ND, and hurt or kill someone, the local prosecutor would eat him alive.

Currently there is a non TSW 4586 at Cherry's fine guns. Tag number is 34050SAL. They say it is NIB and it still has the round white inspection sticker on it.

http://cherrys.com/stokpics/34050sal.jpg

Why not become like the rest of us addicts and just buy more S&W's. Liability problem goes away, and you have another gun to appreciate in both the aesthetic and financial sense of the word.

Just my $0.02

S/F,

RAS (aka Walter)
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Old 03-11-2016, 02:38 PM
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Wow!
This thread sure got the old hens in the barnyard a cacklin'!

As I said in post #7: "Prepare for gasps of horror to follow."

And as Gary S said in post #8: Bring on the fainting couch!"

Nowhere in this thread has the OP or myself even suggested the carry of a pistol "cocked and unlocked".

In post #1 the OP states "this will be EXCLUSIVELY a RANGE GUN" (emphasis added).
It's the very first post, for gosh sakes!
You had ONE JOB!
To read AND comprehend the entire thread before commenting, and you failed.
Reading IS fundamental, girls.
The OP displayed an understanding of the mechanisms of this pistol and safe gun handling. That is why I felt confident in the sharing of knowledge with someone I judged to be a peer.
My intelligent and articulate friend, Sevens gets it and explained it perfectly.
And then Texas G mischaracterizes his post AND accuses him of authoring this thread. (Please read AND think before you type, Glen.)
It was MS88 who was the OP and a very reasonable and well worded question it was.
It was certainly NOT very welcoming to a new member for some of you to jump to conclusions and wrongly flame him without understanding his post.

I joined this forum because of what seemed to be an unusually large number of members who understood and appreciated the intricacies of these mechanisms and could discuss them like adults.
I realize that many of you are bewildered by all things mechanical and and you prefer the threads that say: "Here is my new gun. Isn't it pretty?" and then several people respond and say "I have one, too. Isn't mine pretty?"
And if that's your depth, I say "More power to ya!"
But if that is all I was interested in, I would have joined the Mattel Barbie Doll forum and not the Smith & Wesson Forum.

I think some of you owe the OP an apology.

Rant over.

John
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Old 03-11-2016, 06:03 PM
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Yeah, you talk like such an expert in the hobby.

You epitomize all that most in our community and hobby disdain, and give the gun haters ever more fodder.
Good afternoon. Your insults are wildly off the mark and your comprehension approaches nil.

I have never, not even once, modified a S&W or -any- firearm with regards to it's designed features -- safety or otherwise.

You quoted my entire post and you didn't understand even a bit of it. You added insults and precious little else to the discussion.
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Old 03-12-2016, 01:52 AM
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I stand by my written statements in this thread.

I have full comprehension of a all that was written.

You've been on this blog long enough to know that TDA should be left TDA and I expect that you wouldn't advocate making a 3rd Gen to an unsafe ***.
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:08 AM
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Greetings,

I have a number of 3rd gen. SW's including the 4566tsw. I also have a number of other brands including several CZ's which are DA/SA without a decocker and with a manual safety (like the 1911). These can be carried cocked and locked or hammer down on a loaded round.

The owner's manuals supplied with the non-decocker pistols (the 75B and 75B compacts and 2011 Rami) and also the on-line manuals both show how to safely decock the pistols from the SA mode to the DA/SA mode. Thus there is at least one major manufacturer who puts the manual decocking process in writing. I have decocked thousands of times with no problems.

This being said I still consider the standard decocker like on the SW 3rd gens (and Sigs and Beretta, etc.) safer than manual decocking and much prefer this setup.

best wishes- oldandslow
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:03 AM
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The proposed mods are to be on a gun that will only be used for shooting at the range where there is no reason at all to decock or use any kind of safety. The OP seems to make that clear in his initial post. As long as the gun is used strictly in that setting, there is no increased risk at all, but outside of that setting I would want the gun returned to its normal configuration. I agree with JohnHL that the OP seems to understand those things.
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Old 03-12-2016, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 18DAI View Post
I'm confused here. So these parts get installed in the slide, eliminating the decocker paddles. Ok, got that. Then the 4566TSW is STILL DA/SA??? How do you decock it after racking the slide to load it? With your thumb and forefinger letting the hammer down?

Or are you guys talking about carrying it around cocked and unlocked? What am I missing here? Thanks! Regards18DAI
I stated earlier in the Thread that this gun is EXCLUSIVELY for the Range. I don't even carry yet and when I do, it'll be with a smaller 9mm. I'll decock/unload it the same way I do with every other gun: point downrange, drop mag, rack slide.

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Sounds like it 18DAI. I thought the mods would've already been all over this. Heck of a lot of liability to go around after the ND. I for one hope nobody's hurt, maimed, or killed.
I know the rules of gun safety, but thank you for the concern.

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Originally Posted by Sevens View Post
Agree 100% that it reduces the "safety" of the pistol and admittedly it takes it outside of it's design. Many would argue that you should NEVER employ it in any manner of defense for the simple liability of having to explain (gasp!) that you willfully altered a safety feature.

-HOWEVER!-

Beyond that...
Are ya guys kidding with us here?
You cannot seriously believe this is dangerous... really?

You'd now have to decock the pistol in the same exact way you'd decock a 1911. Or any revolver or ANY semiauto ever built that has an exposed hammer and no decock lever of some sort.

A 3rd Gen with SA/DA operation and no decocker is not at all an "unsafe" handgun unless/until it is in the hands of a fool.

Anybody care to have an adult discussion on how some ADDED safety features incidentally promote POOR gun handling?
Thanks.
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:14 PM
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Wow........

Did I accidentally logon to Glocktalk?
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:20 PM
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I've stayed quiet so far on the OP's rather dubious proposed mod to his 4566TSW... but I have to go along with 18DAI on this one point re: 1911's. I've never carried either of my 1911's, but I sure as heck wouldn't put them in Condition 2. It seems like an ND just waiting to happen.
I appreciate your post and respect your opinion.

I don't profess to be an expert when it comes to the Model of 1911, but no less an expert than Jim Wilson, writing in the March 26, 2015 edition of the American Rifleman had this to say about Condition 2: "I have found it to be the best way for me to prepare my 1911 for placing it on the nightstand at bedtime."

Your thoughts?

John
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Old 03-12-2016, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rasmith3442 View Post
If the OP would modify the gun, have an ND, and hurt or kill someone, the local prosecutor would eat him alive.
Hi, Walter!

Thanks for you gentlemanly post.
In the interest of brevity and succinctness, I have edited it so that I might respectfully take issue with the substance of your comments.

This old saw has been circulating around the gun community for so long that people seem to accept is as gospel.

The actual fact of the matter is, if someone negligently shoots another person, modified gun or not, the shooter is, and should be, liable. (Just as if a person negligently ran over someone with their car.)
The only way a modified gun could damage the defendants case would be if the defendant fraudulently asserted that the gun went off without his control (i.e. that the gun was "defective").

IMHO that lie would be almost as bad as negligently shooting someone.

John
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Old 03-12-2016, 04:07 PM
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Thanks for everybody that helped me and confirmed my questions and ideas. I'll be ordering the parts today and I can't wait.

I'll also be removing the Mag Disconnect so I anticipate countless NDs at home and at the range.

Also, just got offered a 5906 today for my Taurus 990 so I'll be a proud owner of TWO Gen 3s in a very short period. Yay.

Last edited by MS88; 03-12-2016 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 03-12-2016, 04:10 PM
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You're just posting that to mess with people, aren't you?

You're turning your 4566TSW into a Glock!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MS88 View Post
Thanks for everybody that helped me and confirmed my questions and ideas. I'll be ordering the parts today and I can't wait.

I'll also be removing the Mag Disconnect so I anticipate countless NDs at home and at the range.

Also, just got offered a 5906 today for my Taurus 990, so that's TWO Gen 3s I get to love, appreciate and make 'unsafe'.
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Old 03-12-2016, 04:50 PM
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I appreciate your post and respect your opinion.

I don't profess to be an expert when it comes to the Model of 1911, but no less an expert than Jim Wilson, writing in the March 26, 2015 edition of the American Rifleman had this to say about Condition 2: "I have found it to be the best way for me to prepare my 1911 for placing it on the nightstand at bedtime."

Your thoughts?

John
John - The exact quote you reference is as follows:

Quote:
"While I don't know of any agency or defensive school that uses this as a carry method, I have found it to be the best way for me to prepare my 1911 for placing it on the nightstand at bedtime. I have to be fully awake in order to remember that I need to cock the hammer before investigating a possible threat that has awakened me."
American Rifleman | Conditions of Readiness for the 1911 Pistol

Read some of the on-line comments to the article and you'll appreciate a bit more of the safety controversy re: Condition 2. Would I do what he recommends and for the reason he says he recommends it? No. For a variety of reasons, it just doesn't apply to me and my situation. Not now, not ever.

Beyond that, I'm sorry I posted anything in this thread. I should have stayed the Hell out of it as my gut had told me. Live and learn.
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Old 03-12-2016, 07:18 PM
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John - The exact quote you reference is as follows:



American Rifleman | Conditions of Readiness for the 1911 Pistol

Read some of the on-line comments to the article and you'll appreciate a bit more of the safety controversy re: Condition 2. Would I do what he recommends and for the reason he says he recommends it? No. For a variety of reasons, it just doesn't apply to me and my situation. Not now, not ever.

Beyond that, I'm sorry I posted anything in this thread. I should have stayed the Hell out of it as my gut had told me. Live and learn.
Thank you for providing the exact quote, although I do not understand how the additional context changes the meaning of the sentence I posted.
Perhaps you will explain that to me.

And thank you for providing the link to the article. I'm sure others will also enjoy it.

I did read the comments and of the 6 posted, 3 did not address the issue, 1 clearly defended "Condition 2", 1 said the hammer could slip if "Done incorrectly", and the 3rd said it was "STUPID" (his capitalization, not mine) without offering any evidence to support his "argument".

Oft times, it seems "conventional wisdom" is no more than a fallacious or outdated piece of information (sometimes based on a modicum of fact) that has been regurgitated without question over a long enough period of time that it becomes accepted.

John
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:11 PM
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Decocking the hammer will require you to press the trigger while lowering the hammer with your thumb.
While us revolver guys have been doing that since the late 1800's, it is kinda frightening to some people.
Those of us with CZ75s haven't been doing it for nearly that long, admittedly.

H'ain't shotted myself yet, though.
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Old 03-19-2016, 04:10 AM
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Hey again everybody. Back again with a couple updates on my progress and some new pics back in factory config. I ordered the Curved factory S&W grips and some Wolff hammer springs from Midway and got them installed the other day. Also ordered the Firing Pin Retainer (thank you Bluedot37!) from Numrich this last Sunday and it still hasn't shipped yet.. disappointing.

The (Curved) factory Grips are a big improvement over the Hogue grips in terms of girth and looks but I think I might prefer the profile of the Flat grips instead - wish I could've tried both before ordering. I installed the 16lb Wolff spring while I was changing out the grips and the DA pull is pretty fantastic now. Single action seems a bit lighter but I'm not 100% sure; SA was already light and crisp so it's hard to tell without a gauge. I'm going to go a bit further soon and lightly polish the contact surfaces in the trigger system to see if that improves it further. Excellent guide here (
). Hammer power is still strong and I'm not expecting light strikes but have 2 higher-power springs to install if necessary.

Anyways, gave it its first good cleaning when I put on the grips and it looks great now. Love the finish on this gun and it seems pretty durable, even has a nice semi-matte shine when lightly oiled! Do you guys know if the TSW markings on the Slide are printed on or engraved? It doesn't feel engraved to the touch so I'm hoping to preserve the lettering so please let me know if you have suggestions.

I have questions about the frame and slide that I'll ask here but it's probably more appropriate for a new thread:

1. Is the Frame Forged or Cast on the steel-frame S&Ws and what type of Steel was used? Are TSW models different in any way in construction?

2. What type of Steel is used in the Slide and Barrel (assuming Slide is forged)?

3. Are there any parts prone to failure or issues I should keep an eye out for (on 3rd gen .45s, but my 4566TSW in particular)?

Thanks in advance. I have a lot of interest in this gun because it's sexy, seems well-made and is one of the most unique guns in my budding collection.

Here's the pics: http://imgur.com/a/IJKLY
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:41 AM
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Slide and frame are forged if I'm not mistaken.

Slide markings are laser engraved.

TSW models were supposedly fitted as a pair, with improved rails and contact surfaces.

You can Google or search this site for the graphic which details the improvements introduced with the TSW series.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:48 PM
Sevens Sevens is offline
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Earlier TSW pistols were supposedly tighter fitted and matched upper/lower, and many owners claim they notice a difference. I believe it is less so on later TSW pistols.

The one part on most of the .45cal pistols that does give trouble -- nearly to the point where it's an epidemic is the trigger play spring. It's the riveted, funny little copper looking springy tab mounted to the trigger. These bend and break and it allows the trigger to "click" in a most annoying fashion.

Word is that it's so prevalent that some LE armorer began yanking them off as a matter of routine and I've read of at least one LE org that simply ordered S&W to ship their pistols without this blasted cheap spring.

The spring isn't prone to failure in all the other pistols.
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Old 03-20-2016, 02:03 PM
MS88 MS88 is offline
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Last update and project finished for now. Got the Firing Pin Retainer from Numrich and put it in today. It's hard to tell in the pictures but it's more of a Grey to the frame and slide's Silver finish. I want paint/coat it a similar black to the old decocker and hammer but I'm not sure what to use.

Final tally: Curved original S&W grips, Decocker/safety delete for smooth slide, 16lb Hammer spring (20lb factory).

Don't know how 'good' the barrels are in these but with the great trigger, very tight slide-to-frame fit and tight barrel fit this should be be competitive with the best of them. Happy!

Final pics: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevens View Post
Earlier TSW pistols were supposedly tighter fitted and matched upper/lower, and many owners claim they notice a difference. I believe it is less so on later TSW pistols.

The one part on most of the .45cal pistols that does give trouble -- nearly to the point where it's an epidemic is the trigger play spring. It's the riveted, funny little copper looking springy tab mounted to the trigger. These bend and break and it allows the trigger to "click" in a most annoying fashion.

Word is that it's so prevalent that some LE armorer began yanking them off as a matter of routine and I've read of at least one LE org that simply ordered S&W to ship their pistols without this blasted cheap spring.

The spring isn't prone to failure in all the other pistols.
Haha, wow. Well that solves it. Mine has an annoying feel/click in the SA take up that really feels like ****. Wasn't going to say anything so I'm glad you pointed that out.

I've never had a gun with anything resembling the 'Trigger play Spring' clip thing so after looking at the diagram I figured that was probably the culprit. You're saying they can just be removed without effecting anything else? If so that's something I'll definitely do but that (I think?) involves pretty much removing the entire trigger/sear/hammer assembly. Is that correct? Thanks for the help as always!
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Old 03-20-2016, 02:29 PM
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Yes, drawbar must be removed to replace trigger play spring.
Congrats on your mods.
If you can do this you can do the drawbar.
Of course as I told you in an earlier post after I explained how to do this, "Keep your pistol pointed in a safe direction when decocking."

BTW, ALL TSW pistols were manufactured with a numbers matching frame and slide.
The earlier models had the matching numbers somewhat prominently displayed under the grips and inside the slide.
The later models often had the matching numbers hidden under the rear sight and sometimes under the sear spring.
This led people to conclude that the later models were not produced with matching assemblies and sometimes department armorers would mix and match frame and slide assemblies (not realizing that they were a matched set).

John

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Old 03-20-2016, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
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Mine has an annoying feel/click in the SA take up that really feels like ****.
If the trigger play spring's two fingers are intact then you can try pushing the fingers forward with the eraser end of a pencil to tighten it up. It may stay good or it may just loosen up again later. It worked on mine.

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Old 03-18-2017, 10:51 PM
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Default 4566TSW "Click" in SA Take-up

I realize this is an old thread, but it just gave me the answer I was looking for, so I figured I'd say "Thank You" here to SEVENS, Bluedotz37 and other members for some good info.
I just bought a 4566TSW and unlike my 3rd Gen DA/SA 9mm guns this one had an annoying "click" in the SA take up. I removed the slide, cocked the hammer and carefully looked/listened while slowly taking up the trigger in SA, but not enough to drop the hammer. I could see where the drawbar would pop up just a little (the dreaded click) as the trigger was taken up. As noted in this thread, the trigger play spring was not providing the necessary forward tension on the trigger...it had too much play. So I used a pencil eraser to bend it forward just a bit, as suggested by Bluedotz37, to bring it into contact with the trigger and no more click! I'm sure it won't last forever, so I'll be ordering a trigger play spring and rivet soon. Thanks again for the tip. Interesting that this is an issue for the 45s but not the 9mms (of course, I have several replacement springs and rivets for my 3913s, all still in the bag, and NONE for my "new" 4566). BTW, with the exception of the trigger play spring, the 4566TSW appears to be built like a tank - you know a gun is special when you want to clean it (even if it doesn't need it) just so you can admire the engineering and workmanship. Looking forward to taking her to the range real soon.
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Old 03-19-2017, 12:39 AM
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Cool! Glad it worked for you.

I can't remember which of mine I had to tighten up the spring on, but whichever, it's still good & I haven't had to replace it...yet.

Hope you enjoy shooting yours!

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Old 03-19-2017, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed58 View Post
I have several replacement springs and rivets for my 3913s, all still in the bag, and NONE for my "new" 4566.
All trigger play springs and rivets are the same, Ed.

John
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Old 03-19-2017, 11:18 AM
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JohnHL, thanks for letting me know. Parts commonality is a good thing! I took a close look at the spring in the gun, compared to a new one and it is all there, just a little tired I guess (I can relate to that). But I will stay with the old spring until it breaks or until I tear it down for a thorough cleaning and have the draw bar in hand.
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