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01-28-2017, 10:56 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: SW Virginia
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Have used MPro-7 oil for several years now on all semi-automatics (including 1911s) and revolvers. Very good product.
During the Korean War - Chosin Reservoir Campaign - It was so cold that the Marines had to run all their weapons dry to help prevent freeze up. Occasionally they urinated on them to unfreeze them. That is cold!
Thanks to all our veterans for their service!!
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01-28-2017, 12:02 PM
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US Veteran
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: illinois
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My dad told me that during the Battle of the Bulge they put Vicks on their rifles as well as using lots of it for the intended purposes.
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01-28-2017, 12:10 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Enola, Pennsylvania
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If synthetic oils are not good for firearms and can attack plastic parts, I wonder why Kimber strongly recommends Shooter's Choice FP-10, a synthetic lubricant, for their 1911s, some of which come with plastic grip panels. Having owned three Kimber 1911s (since replaced with S&Ws), I bought a large bottle of FP-10 and have used it for years on all my guns without any problems.
Ed
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01-28-2017, 06:35 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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There are many different grades of synthetic lubricants on the market. Some of which are great for what we are doing with them. Its just knowing which is better then others to use for the best protection as possible. They are all a class of polymeers which basically is a liquid plastic. Some much better then others for the job intended.
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01-28-2017, 06:57 PM
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcgilvray
No grease for the 1911 guns here, thank you.
Singer Sewing Machine oil has kept them all lubricated with perfect satisfaction.
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Bravo! When I think of grease, I think of axles, car chassis, farm tractors, practical jokes, etc., etc...not pistols, and especially not 1911s.
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02-18-2017, 07:16 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Canada
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Usually the aroma of whale oil will put you completely off. It can be extremely strong in a nasty way.
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02-20-2017, 06:20 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSeabrooke
I also use Lubriplate, which is what I was first trained to use while "vacationing" at Parris Island in 1965. It always works great. Recently I needed to order more and did not check the "quantity" closely enough at the Amazon website - 10 ounces for ~ $9.00. Now I have more than a lifetime supply!!
No matter what anyone else says, 1911s do have to be "greased" to run smoothly. I have never had a FTF or FTE with a lubed 1911. This is really important with these new alloys [includes stainless], especially those for which the slide is of a different material than the frame, as in "galling".
Lubriplate cleans up easily too after a trip to the range, or hunting, etc. Most of it comes off easily with just a rag or t-shirt, or old cloth diaper. I finish the job with low air pressure from my Porter Cable "Pancake" compressor.
Lubriplate also has many other uses around your home, your car, RV, etc., wherever a great, stable lubricant is required.
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It's what is recommended for use in M-1 Garands, by most knowledgeable "authorities". It's also what SIG ships it's new 1911's lubed with. No need to re-invent the wheel.
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02-20-2017, 07:54 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2016
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Aye matey, I think I'll go with the whale oil, an eye patch and a parrot.
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02-20-2017, 08:09 PM
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SWCA Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Indiana
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I am still using, and happy with, LSA. If I was planning on using the gun in cold weather I would clean it and apply just a tiny bit of RemOil. As a general rule I don't care much for grease on 1911s, but I have used Molysulfide grease when first "breaking in" a new pistol. After a couple applications I then change over to LSA.
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02-25-2017, 07:46 PM
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The wrong oil is better than no oil.
That said I run Mill-Comm products in my 1911.
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