Have a 5906 that when you depress sear release lever to push slide back on after disassembly it sticks up a few thousands above frame when pushed all the way down making slide difficult to slide over lever. Should this be stoned down? Fairly low round count I believe.

Or am I missing something that could be causing this at same time slide engages sear release lever?

These levers seem to be difficult on all 3rd gens. I use a dowel or the end of a plastic toothbrush to push them down. I would avoid any mods to the gun, not knowing the "side effects".

Normal for the sear release lever to slightly stick up above the top of the frame. DO NOT adjust the height by stoning (or filing) it, as that will change the tolerances and decocking timing.

FWIW, fitting a new sear release lever requires filing the foot of the lever, maintaining a specific correct angle, and checking the resulting engagement until decocking timing is within proper spec, meaning it's a job for someone with the right tools, knowledge and training.

Individually depressing each of the levers, sequentially, as the rear of the slide encounters each of them during reassembly of the slide onto the frame, is normal. Some people can use the tip of a finger, and some use the side of a cleaning rod, narrow plastic cleaning brush handle (or, the side, not the tip, of a S&W armorer's pin punch).

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Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer

S&W provides a handy tool with the gun, I use the flat tip end of the slide lock shaft (not the end with the spring loaded plunger) to depress those levers... since it can't be reinstalled until the slide is on... it's just sitting there waiting for something to do.

Attached Images

slide release lever.jpg (27.1 KB, 12 views)

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Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222

Thanks!!!!

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As long as you can get it over, he happy. Do not stone!

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I just use a BIC cheapo pen to push the levers down. One of them always seems to be a little higher after a field strip. Easy fix and the slide goes right on.

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Why duck?? It's a 9mm!

I will clarify. Lever pushed all the way down until its bottomed and can not go further and it still interferes with slide enough to where I have to force slide over it. Barely enough strength to get slide on. Doesn't matter what is used to push it down. I would think removing a .005" from top surface would delay decocker a small amount which would only mean the firing pin would be even more covered. How could that hurt?

I'm gonna go out on a limb and sympathize with you, enduro2.
Folks around here are very guarded when it comes to modifying any safety device.

I suspect someone replaced the sear release lever before you got it.
What happens is the frame and slide rails wear and they move farther apart and now the safety body is farther from the sear release lever and the hammer doesn't always fall when the lever is thumbed.
So somebody put a new lever in without adjusting it properly.
I've found when a new sear release lever is installed without having the foot properly stoned (or stoned at all) the top of the lever sticks up and interferes with the installation of the slide, even when pushed down.
The proper way to make the adjustment is by removing a small amount of material from the foot without changing the angle.
The reason not to remove it from the top of the lever is that the mathematical relationship between the movement at the top of the lever and the movement of the sear at the foot is not 1:1 throughout its arc.
It would be best to learn to do it properly or have it done professionally.
Call S&W. They might fix it for free.

But you are not imagining things and it can be fixed.

John