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Old 06-23-2017, 02:26 PM
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While assembling my 659 (photos attached), the recoil spring and spring guide assembly took off in flight and were lost for a couple of stressful hours. This experience prompted me to check the availability of parts for this model and I found no single vendor who carried all parts. So, I'm now on a parts hunt since I do plan to keep this 659 and to shoot it regularly. And, researching gun parts in this Forum and others tells me the S&W service doors are closed to the 2nd gen semi-auto. Question: What parts should I collect other than the recoil spring and recoil spring guide assembly; barrel bushing; firing pin and firing pin spring; extractor and extractor spring; all other springs; and a sear release lever?

Thanks.

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Old 06-23-2017, 02:36 PM
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Sideplate, Mag catch, grip screws, ambi safety screw (?), ejector & springs, maybe a metal disconnector.
Get your magazines NOW, while they are cheep.
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Old 06-23-2017, 03:49 PM
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I bought a used 439 over 20 years ago, and it had a cross threaded mag release button that had stripped prior to my purchase. I have eyed the mag release button and the mag release to be highly suspect. If I were you, I would search out a magazine release and button!
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:17 PM
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I'd look around for a spare recoil guide rod, as they aren't even ordering those for the 3rd gen's anymore. Recoil and mag springs, too.

The extractor and sear release lever are "fitted" parts, so even if you acquire them you'd still have to find a gunsmith familiar with S&W pistols to install them.

The sear release lever fitting used to be done by "eyeball" (carefully manipulating the decocking to check for the proper "timing"), but several years ago they started giving armorers the sizes of 3 different numbered metal drill bits to use as Go/No-Go gauges (the non-cutting ends).

The extractor and spring require the use of a force dial gauge for the spring tension, and a factory-provided armorers with a Go/No-Go Bar gauge to check for filing the extractor's adjustment pad to fit the extractor in any particular slide. (They used to use a Go/No-Go Flag gauge for checking another dimension behind the extractor hook, but eventually decided that it wasn't necessary, as long as the Bar gauge was used properly.)

There are optional extractor springs available, lighter/heavier than "standard", to compensate for any machining tolerance variations in the depth of the extractor spring hole, and the older 9's sometimes required a special repair extractor spring kit, which used a pair of nested springs (which was eventually replaced with just a couple of different strength single springs to try, to see which one worked better).

That all means that properly replacing an extractor and spring is probably beyond the knowledge, skills and tools of the average kitchen table tinkerers and enthusiasts.

The ejector is essentially a drop-in part, and the newer revision actually offers faster ejection and reduced the potential for tip breakage due to a possible stress riser at a sharp corner on the bottom of the old, shorter tip.

Bear in mind that the older guns were made on older equipment, and back when the "average expected service life" was loosely based on military specs (5K rounds), and it wasn't really expected that even hard-used duty weapons might see more than 5-10K rounds, at most.

Sure, some agencies who did a lot of shooting with the older 2nd gen guns really pushed the limits of how long the guns might be expected to last, and to the surprise of a lot of folks, but it wasn't something considered "average".

If you actually fire 1,000 rounds per month out of that old 659, I'd replace the recoil spring at least every 5 months. Sooner if you shoot +P. That will help mitigate the battering. New factory recoil springs are relatively inexpensive (I usually ordered mine 10-12 at a time for each gun).

Once you start to get into thinking about replacing older designed hammers, drawbars, disconnectors and sears, you really need to know how to check for proper fit and function in the older guns. This is where a good smith, familiar with the older guns, may be helpful.

If you shoot the old 659 into obsolescence, it will have earned its retirement.
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Old 06-23-2017, 05:01 PM
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When working on guns with springs. Put said gun in large clear plastic bag. Insert hands and tools and rock on. When springs go ballistic.....
Beats hunting for them in the shah carpet!

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Old 06-24-2017, 08:36 AM
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GREAT info, thanks all. Just what I had hoped to hear. And, working on my 659 in a large clear plastic bag to control a potential spring launch is brilliant!

Peter
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Old 04-02-2020, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Fastbolt View Post
[...]
The extractor and sear release lever are "fitted" parts, so even if you acquire them you'd still have to find a gunsmith familiar with S&W pistols to install them.

[...]

The extractor and spring require the use of a force dial gauge for the spring tension, and a factory-provided armorers with a Go/No-Go Bar gauge to check for filing the extractor's adjustment pad to fit the extractor in any particular slide. (They used to use a Go/No-Go Flag gauge for checking another dimension behind the extractor hook, but eventually decided that it wasn't necessary, as long as the Bar gauge was used properly.)

There are optional extractor springs available, lighter/heavier than "standard", to compensate for any machining tolerance variations in the depth of the extractor spring hole, and the older 9's sometimes required a special repair extractor spring kit, which used a pair of nested springs (which was eventually replaced with just a couple of different strength single springs to try, to see which one worked better).

That all means that properly replacing an extractor and spring is probably beyond the knowledge, skills and tools of the average kitchen table tinkerers and enthusiasts.

[...]
The extractor on my 659 has broken. I have a replacement extractor and spring.

Were I to simply replace the broken extractor with the new one, what are the consequences of less than optimal fit?

I am located in Southern CA; is it possible there is a gunsmith in the area with the necessary expertise? Thanks in advance...
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Old 04-02-2020, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Veracity2371 View Post
The extractor on my 659 has broken. I have a replacement extractor and spring.

Were I to simply replace the broken extractor with the new one, what are the consequences of less than optimal fit?

I am located in Southern CA; is it possible there is a gunsmith in the area with the necessary expertise? Thanks in advance...
The revised 3rd gen extractors have a thick adjustment pad behind the hook area that typically (intentionally) causes the hook's reach to fall on the "wide" range of engagement. That way it can be carefully filed down to put the hook's reach within spec for any particular slide. Typically starts off deliberately too wide, so to speak, like the sear release levers have too much metal on the foot and start off too long (requiring filing to shorten them for each particular gun.)

Having the hook's reach be "too wide" would usually mean that failures-to-extract would probably happen, as the hook isn't positioned "inward" enough to maintain engagement with the case rim during recoil/cycling.

You'd have to start calling around to find a smith familiar with filing & fitting the revised extractors in the 3rd gen slides. Might still be some remaining S&W trained armorers floating around, as the pistols were pretty standard in police work before the Glock arrived.

You might have to make some calls and see if anyone in any of the local gun shops has a smith who has the tools and knowledge, or knows someone "who knows someone" (retired) who might be willing to perform the filing & fitting.

I've known other armorers, like myself, who spent their own money to order tools and parts to put away for themselves (instead of just using the tools and parts bought by their agencies while they were working). I spent a lot of my own money on those things so I could continue to service and repair my own 3rd gen guns, as well as those of some friends and family when I retired.
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Old 04-02-2020, 06:13 PM
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Sounds like a joke. Is NOT a joke.

Hunt down a second pistol. Shop by price and look for ones with the worst possible finish to keep price low.

A second gun is loaded with parts. You aren’t likely to need them, in my experience. Of course, anything is possible.
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Old 04-03-2020, 01:26 AM
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The revised 3rd gen extractors have a thick adjustment pad behind the hook area that typically (intentionally) causes the hook's reach to fall on the "wide" range of engagement. That way it can be carefully filed down to put the hook's reach within spec for any particular slide. Typically starts off deliberately too wide, so to speak, like the sear release levers have too much metal on the foot and start off too long (requiring filing to shorten them for each particular gun.)

Having the hook's reach be "too wide" would usually mean that failures-to-extract would probably happen, as the hook isn't positioned "inward" enough to maintain engagement with the case rim during recoil/cycling.

You'd have to start calling around to find a smith familiar with filing & fitting the revised extractors in the 3rd gen slides. Might still be some remaining S&W trained armorers floating around, as the pistols were pretty standard in police work before the Glock arrived.

You might have to make some calls and see if anyone in any of the local gun shops has a smith who has the tools and knowledge, or knows someone "who knows someone" (retired) who might be willing to perform the filing & fitting.

I've known other armorers, like myself, who spent their own money to order tools and parts to put away for themselves (instead of just using the tools and parts bought by their agencies while they were working). I spent a lot of my own money on those things so I could continue to service and repair my own 3rd gen guns, as well as those of some friends and family when I retired.
I really appreciate the quick reply.

This 659 is one I would like to keep alive and functioning well, so I am particularly thankful for your detailed reply. I have some friends who are retired LEOs, I will ask around.

If I can clearly understand what you are conveying, I will be glad, and maybe others will benefit from finding this thread after the fact, as I did.

I am the original owner of this pistol. I couldn't tell you how many rounds I have put through it, but I would guess, not 5000. Maybe 2000? 3000? Hard to say. But I must admit, I was surprised the extractor broke, and surprised how long it took and how much it cost to get a stainless replacement. Is it possible I did something to contribute to the accelerated demise of the extractor, or is this a common occurrence?

Too, regarding the extra material left on the extractor for fitting, am is it correct that S&W employees hand-fitted each one to each pistol that left the factory?

If I use a micrometer to dimensionally match the replacement extractor to the one being replaced, is that a possible work-around, or is this a ham-fisted, unwise solution?

Are the gauges used to measure tension like a Weigand extractor tension gauge? Where can the tension specs be found?

With 2nd gen and 3rd gen S&W pistols-- I also have a 1076-- are there parts I should be saving up for a rainy day? After I realized how hard it was to come by replacement extractors for my 659, I bought one for my 1076. I hardly shoot it, but I stumbled on a good deal. However I am not 100% certain that it is a 10mm extractor; I saw one on eBay, purportedly for the 10mm, which had a "10" stamped into it. The one I bought is unmarked. But superficially-- length and breadth-- it sure seems to be the same. I didn't remove the perfectly good extractor from my 1076 to compare. Rather, I placed them back-to-back, as it were, and they appeared identical.

Sorry, so many questions. But thanks in advance for any wisdom/experience you care to share.
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Old 04-03-2020, 09:01 AM
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Your story is the reason why I ALWAYS disassemble any handgun inside a plastic bag. It sure saves a lot of time crawling around the floor on your hands and knees!
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Old 04-03-2020, 01:29 PM
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Sounds like a joke. Is NOT a joke.

Hunt down a second pistol. Shop by price and look for ones with the worst possible finish to keep price low.

A second gun is loaded with parts. You aren’t likely to need them, in my experience. Of course, anything is possible.
So sorry, Brother Sevens, but I must disagree with you and here is my reasoning: Buying a second pistol for spare parts?

John
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Old 04-03-2020, 02:02 PM
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I actually don't remember that thread. You make a fine argument and it's hard to counter.

Suppose my answer to get a second gun is simply a knee-jerk reaction to the (seemingly) endless new topics that pop up and basically say, "Hey, just got my first _____ and I like it, what's gonna break on it?" (likely nothing, go shoot it, stop worrying, buy more guns)
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Old 04-03-2020, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Veracity2371 View Post
I really appreciate the quick reply.

This 659 is one I would like to keep alive and functioning well, so I am particularly thankful for your detailed reply. I have some friends who are retired LEOs, I will ask around.

If I can clearly understand what you are conveying, I will be glad, and maybe others will benefit from finding this thread after the fact, as I did.

I am the original owner of this pistol. I couldn't tell you how many rounds I have put through it, but I would guess, not 5000. Maybe 2000? 3000? Hard to say. But I must admit, I was surprised the extractor broke, and surprised how long it took and how much it cost to get a stainless replacement. Is it possible I did something to contribute to the accelerated demise of the extractor, or is this a common occurrence?

Too, regarding the extra material left on the extractor for fitting, am is it correct that S&W employees hand-fitted each one to each pistol that left the factory?

If I use a micrometer to dimensionally match the replacement extractor to the one being replaced, is that a possible work-around, or is this a ham-fisted, unwise solution?

Are the gauges used to measure tension like a Weigand extractor tension gauge? Where can the tension specs be found?

With 2nd gen and 3rd gen S&W pistols-- I also have a 1076-- are there parts I should be saving up for a rainy day? After I realized how hard it was to come by replacement extractors for my 659, I bought one for my 1076. I hardly shoot it, but I stumbled on a good deal. However I am not 100% certain that it is a 10mm extractor; I saw one on eBay, purportedly for the 10mm, which had a "10" stamped into it. The one I bought is unmarked. But superficially-- length and breadth-- it sure seems to be the same. I didn't remove the perfectly good extractor from my 1076 to compare. Rather, I placed them back-to-back, as it were, and they appeared identical.

Sorry, so many questions. But thanks in advance for any wisdom/experience you care to share.
First of all, I came along and started my armorer training after the 3rd gen models were released. While the 2nd gen guns were discussed in my classes, it was mostly how to use the applicable newer parts in the older 2nd gen guns.

I have a binder of the older armorer training manuals for the 1st and 2nd gen guns, left to me by the former head armorer. They contain a lot more instructions about the need for hand-fitting that weren't needed by the increasingly better machined 3rd gen models.

The older extractors, like those listed used in the 2nd gen models and then the early 3rd gen models, didn't have quite the pronounced adjustment pad as the revised extractors we were told to use when I took my first pistol armorer class for the 3rd gen guns. The revised extractors provided for more a precise fit in any particular slide, but at the cost of more fitting.

The older manual lists that stoning should not be required for installing the older extractors. It discussed checking the hook for burrs, as well as checking for burrs in the extractor slot. (Older machining.) The extractor tension back then was 4-5lbs.

The 2nd gen manual and notes list that extractor hook fit was checked using a properly sized Dummy round, looking for the tension to securely hold the round under the extractor (Sound familiar to 1911 aficionados?). If more tension was needed to hold the Dummy round, or if stove-pipes occurred, then the pad would have to be filed to create more tension (by putting the hook closer). Range testing was done to check function.

By the time I became interested in becoming an armorer for our 3rd gen guns, the armorer training had changed to incorporate the use of a set of Bar & Flag gauges to check for "fit", the extractors had been revised to include a pronounced (thick) adjustment pad and the use of a spring force dial gauge had been introduced.

The extractor spring tension was a bit different than the older manual, too. Instead of the previous 4-5lb tension for a 9mm, there were different tensions, depending on whether it was a single or double stack 9mm, and then whether the breech (bolt) face was the older style or the newer style. The older style had the face of the slide machined with a round bolt face, with curved shoulders above the case on each side, while the new style had a straight cut bolt face (with a resulting wider barrel tab).

The "39" series guns had a 4-7lb tension, and the "59/69" series guns had a 4-11lbs tension, except that was further broken down differently for the old & new style breech/bolt face designs. The "old" bolt face was listed at 4-8lbs, but the new bolt face was listed at 7-11lbs. Except ... we were told that sometimes the older machining tolerances and methods might require an occasional gun with the old style bolt face to need a slightly heavier tension, and they offered a repair set of extractor springs that were nested (narrow/tall one nested inside a standard size spring) for us to use.

The slightly heavier tension was something to be very carefully approached for any particular gun, though, as it had to be the right balance to allow for both good extractor engagement and extraction, but not create too much tension that it interfered with proper feeding. I remember a couple of older production 5903's needing their extractor spring tension in the 12-13lb range after extractors had to be replaced with new ones. That was using the nested spring sets.

Later on they made the nested repair spring set obsolete and replaced it with a pair of the optional springs. Armorers could try each spring and see which spring put the tension within range and allowed for proper functioning in the occasional older 9mm (that might have a slide with some variance in the dimension and shape of the extractor spring hole).

The manuals listed some recommendations for which of the 6 extractor springs might work in the 39 & 59/69 series guns. There were 6 springs that could be tried, meaning standard and some optional ones.

Now, I just went out and checked some of my older parts, and I was able to find an older black extractor of the type used in the 2nd gen and early 3rd gen 9mm guns. I took some pics of it next to a revised stainless extractor that was introduced later in the 3rd gen guns. You can see some obvious differences in the size and dimension of the "pad" behind the hook, and even in the shape of the hook. Note the hook of the revised extractor design could have better reach and room to engage and grab a case rim.





BTW, the extractor Bar gauge was just a 2-ended steel bar that had the GO & NO-GO dimensions respectively machined into ends, so the designated 'face' (side) could be used to check the reach of the hook and its tightness or looseness. The GO gauge should fit between the edge of the hook and the opposite breech face shoulder, and the NO-GO end should not be able to fit between them. Any good machinist could produce such a precision bar.

Now, an interesting bit of trivia about the Bar gauges sold to armorers was that the machine shop the factory contracted to produce the gauges for their armorer training program apparently made a mistake at one point or another. The GO & NO-GO markings were on the face of the Bars, but we were told to check the ends of the Bars to see of GO & NO-GO were marked on the ends, too. If there were GO & NO-GO marked on the ends, and they were opposite of what was marked on the face of the BAR, the markings on the end were the ones to use. (Apparently, the markings on the face had been incorrectly marked on some Bar gauges, so they marked the ends with the actual orientation. )

Perhaps you may find a smith or armorer somewhere down there who might have an older extractor or two which might drop into your 2nd gen slide (and he'd know how to check to make sure it didn't need any filing, anyway, just to make sure).
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Old 04-04-2020, 05:45 PM
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Many, many thanks for this super-detailed answer.

May I ask, I saw this thread, so if I follow the steps-- kroil, soak, drive pin out from top to bottom-- I should be able to remove the broken extractor from my 659? I don't want to make things worse.

Let me make sure I am tracking you here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbolt View Post
[...]

The 2nd gen manual and notes list that extractor hook fit was checked using a properly sized Dummy round, looking for the tension to securely hold the round under the extractor (Sound familiar to 1911 aficionados?). If more tension was needed to hold the Dummy round, or if stove-pipes occurred, then the pad would have to be filed to create more tension (by putting the hook closer). Range testing was done to check function.

[...]

The extractor spring tension was a bit different than the older manual, too. Instead of the previous 4-5lb tension for a 9mm, there were different tensions, depending on whether it was a single or double stack 9mm, and then whether the breech (bolt) face was the older style or the newer style. The older style had the face of the slide machined with a round bolt face, with curved shoulders above the case on each side, while the new style had a straight cut bolt face (with a resulting wider barrel tab).

The "39" series guns had a 4-7lb tension, and the "59/69" series guns had a 4-11lbs tension, except that was further broken down differently for the old & new style breech/bolt face designs. The "old" bolt face was listed at 4-8lbs, but the new bolt face was listed at 7-11lbs. Except ... we were told that sometimes the older machining tolerances and methods might require an occasional gun with the old style bolt face to need a slightly heavier tension, and they offered a repair set of extractor springs that were nested (narrow/tall one nested inside a standard size spring) for us to use.
Based on your description, and the photo below, it would appear my 659 has the "old" bolt face?



So what you are suggesting, in effect, is that I remove the old extractor, and replace it with the new one (pictured below, looks new to me).





I do have a new spring I got with the replacement extractor; I have no idea what the specifications of it are. Should I try it, or go with the old spring first?

Range testing-- perfect functioning of a few magazines full-- was regarded as good enough to determine if the tension was adequate? Otherwise, how does one determine if a dummy round is held securely?

Regarding the tension measurement, I saw a video where a guy was measuring the tension on a 1911 with a Weigand gauge and a trigger pull scale. Is that the kind of measurement you are referring to?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbolt View Post
[...]
The slightly heavier tension was something to be very carefully approached for any particular gun, though, as it had to be the right balance to allow for both good extractor engagement and extraction, but not create too much tension that it interfered with proper feeding. I remember a couple of older production 5903's needing their extractor spring tension in the 12-13lb range after extractors had to be replaced with new ones. That was using the nested spring sets.

Later on they made the nested repair spring set obsolete and replaced it with a pair of the optional springs. Armorers could try each spring and see which spring put the tension within range and allowed for proper functioning in the occasional older 9mm (that might have a slide with some variance in the dimension and shape of the extractor spring hole).

The manuals listed some recommendations for which of the 6 extractor springs might work in the 39 & 59/69 series guns. There were 6 springs that could be tried, meaning standard and some optional ones.

[...]

Perhaps you may find a smith or armorer somewhere down there who might have an older extractor or two which might drop into your 2nd gen slide (and he'd know how to check to make sure it didn't need any filing, anyway, just to make sure).
I reached out to one of my well-connected retired LEO friends, to see if someone among his connections might be trained for this specific job. I'm happy to pay someone with skills to do proper work, but I'm still waiting to hear back from him. I have another couple of people I can ask if necessary.

If it seems good to you, would you be willing to scan some of the old manual pages and post them? Even if you don't have a scanner, there are apps you can use on a smart phone, like Adobe Scan, which produce good quality PDFs of documents. That way, if I have to pay someone without the specific training, at least I can refer them to the source documents? There is a shop down here I've used before which says they have a certified S&W armorer on staff, but these guns are pushing 30+ years old, so someone certified recently could be ignorant of the nuances of repairing the guns that needed a skilled touch.

Thank you so much for taking trouble. It is greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-04-2020, 10:26 PM
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Yes, the 2nd gen guns had the old (original) machined bolt face (as did the early 3rd gen's) and that's what's in the pic you posted.

Yes, that looks like the old style extractor.

The older 1st/2nd gen manuals didn't even have black and white pictures, but line drawings. The 3rd gen manuals at least got B/W pics.

The line drawings and B/W pics were simple. Not step-by-step. They more or less would only make sense if you'd attended a class and watched it being done, and then had a chance to practice it during the class as well as make notes of your own to help you remember later on at your bench.

If you look through the .pdf Parts lists (at end of post), under the various models, you'll see where the spring numbers have changed over time. The older extractor spring set listed in the 659/559 (#19134) was replaced by the R1 spring (#10087) when the set was made obsolete. The 10087 spring because the "standard" spring in the double stack 9/.40 guns, although there were other springs made available to get the right tension. (And there was a special spring for the 411, but that's another story.)

I never used the Weigand gauge setup for 1911 extractor tensioning. In my Colt armorer class we were taught and required to do it "old school", so to speak. You're on your own if you want to try to apply it to the S&W pivoting extractor.

I took a couple pics of the particular Wagner Force Dial gauge they trained us to use and sold to us. You can see the nicely machined corner/hook in the extension used to pull on the extractor hook. They teach doing it with the front of the slide held in a padded vise, supporting the rear of the slide with a thumb, and then slowly pulling on the extractor and stopping, taking the reading when the hook first starts to move. It's also helpful to watch to see when the tail first starts to move, since this is a pivoting extractor. Kinda depends on your bench light, if you need reading glasses and whether looking at the front of the extractor hook, hooked by the gauge tool, is "too busy" to see when the extractor first starts to move. The tail is "less busy".



In this second pic I just set the gauge at 8lbs for illustration purpose.


These are the Bar & Flag gauges that were sold to armorers. The Bar was slipped up between the inside of the hook and the opposite side of the bolt face. Just high enough, inserted from the bottom of the slide, to have the end of the Bar being used (Go or No-Go) extending a little above the extractor. The Flag gauge slipped underneath the inside of the extractor hook, between the hook and the bolt face, also with Go & No-Go ends.




Eventually they stopped selling the Bar & Flag gauges for each caliber as "sets" because they said they'd determined only the Bar block gauge was needed to fit an extractor.

If I didn't have the tools and gauge, I'd probably use the old style "check" of putting a Dummy round under the extractor, positioned flat against the bolt face to start, and then hold the slide horizontal above the bench and gently wiggle the slide to see if the extractor tension held the Dummy round (or let it drop out from under the extractor). Sounds like that's what the former head armorer had to do before they started providing expensive tools to buy and use.

You can browse among the different models to look at extractor spring part numbers in the link below (now that another member kindly told me how to attach it ).

FWIW, you'll note in the TSW pistols that they show 2 or 3 springs for each model. I was told that the first spring is the "standard" spring, and the following springs were the optional springs that might be needed for any particular slide,m if an armorer couldn't get the right tension for a gun. I had that happen with a late production 4006TSW that started exhibiting failures-to-extract after it had been in-service for a little while.

The original spring - (10087, as it was unpainted, and the rest are all painted different colors to code them) - was giving me too light tension readings, 4-4 1/2lbs, if I recall. The normal range for the .40/10 is 5-8lbs. I replaced it with another standard spring, thinking the original spring might be out-of-spec, but I got the same low tension readings. I went with one of the optional (heavier) .40 springs and it put the tension in the upper end of the normal range. The gun extracted normally in live-fire and ran like a top.

Hope you can find someone down there who can check the fit of a replacement extractor for you, and has the tool to check the tension.
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S&W 659 - Parts Question-pistolpartslist_retail-july-2011-pdf  
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Old 04-04-2020, 10:47 PM
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If anybody is reading this thread now, you might refresh the page, as I just added a few things ....
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Old 04-04-2020, 11:08 PM
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For my 5906 have a Wolff spring service pack , trigger play spring /rivet , trigger pin ,grip pin , firing pin and guide rod. The only thing I had to do is replace a corroded mag release button plunger and spring. All of this stuff was bought six years ago
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Old 04-05-2020, 05:50 PM
Veracity2371 Veracity2371 is offline
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The spring that I ordered from GPC is described as:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gun Parts Co
THIS PRODUCT IS A SUBSTITUTE PART FOR:
#1851460 Extractor Spring, Used Factory Original 39, 59, 69 SERIES
I don't find that part number, searching your document. Pursuant to nothing, on the schematic supplied with the gun, the part number for the extractor spring was 063310000.
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Old 04-05-2020, 06:30 PM
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Gun Parts Co. (Numrich) uses their own numbering system instead of S&W part numbers.

John
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Old 04-05-2020, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnHL View Post
Gun Parts Co. (Numrich) uses their own numbering system instead of S&W part numbers.

John
So in other words, 1851460 is a GPC number and not an S&W number?
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Old 04-05-2020, 09:55 PM
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You can look up the S&W part numbers in the thumbnail link in Post #16, if you click on it and open it. Just select the model number in the left column.
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Old 04-11-2020, 12:02 AM
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OK, here's what I found when I removed the old extractor:



I don't have an experienced eye, but it does not look to me like the broken one was filed right behind the hook. Dimensionally, they are close:


The new one comes in at 0.229" across;


the broken one at 0.225".


Do you think I can just replace the broken one and range test it? Would you use the new spring, without knowing the specifications of it?
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Old 06-30-2020, 10:10 PM
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Figured I owed an update, since I benefitted so much from the thread. I just finished replacing the extractor on my 659. Wasn't too hard. I had a replacement spring from GPC/Numrich which I put in, and I'll take it to the range tomorrow to see how it works.

I can totally relate to the OP. While I was working the extractor pin got away from me. I searched and searched. Turned out it hadn't left the table, but was covered up. I actually have a replacement pin on-hand which I ordered from GPC/Numrich. But I had another similar pin in the same order and they were unmarked, so I wasn't sure which was which.

Anyway, I am very grateful for the experience and wisdom shared here. Really helped. Thanks so much for it.
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Old 01-14-2021, 01:22 AM
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Great informative post!
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Old 01-15-2021, 11:45 AM
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Due to my mild OCD, if I have a gun that I’m really fond of, I try to obtain a fairly complete spare parts “set” to go with it, paying particular attention to finding and keeping the parts most likely to wear out or break (think “consumables”). I like to buy a more or less complete “parts kit” when possible, and if I have to use a part try to replace the spare with a new one ASAP. Doesn’t always work, but usually I’m safe!

OK, so maybe it’s not mild OCD!

Froggie
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