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Old 07-19-2017, 08:30 PM
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Default 1006... should I buy...

So local LGS called me they know i like 10mm's and they got a 1006 in on consignment... I went to look at it, overall it's in decent shape, it's been used a bit but nothing major - but does have some idiot scratches. I didn't buy but told him I would think about it. Price is inline with current pricing, so it's not a super deal or anything. Plus no box, paperwork and only one mag will yellow follower. I know mags are getting hard to find for these.

There is a fun show this weekend so I will look around for mag/mag parts, but still the scratch kinda bothers me. Since it's matte frame I guess my only options are hope the scotch pad trick would clean it up, or have the frame polished out?



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Old 07-19-2017, 08:52 PM
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If the price is right buy it. 1006's are great shooters and are getting harder to come by. Buy it, shoot it, enjoy it.

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Old 07-20-2017, 12:55 AM
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I've been able to clean-up my used 3rd Gens & blend in (out?) any scratches or wear marks to my liking. I believe with some judicious use of Scotchbrite pads you can make that scratch almost disappear.

If you're going to use it as a shooter I wouldn't let that scratch be a deterrent.

Use the "no box, paperwork and only one mag with yellow follower" as bargaining chips to get them to lower the price. Can't hurt.

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Old 07-20-2017, 03:04 AM
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I have learned that when in doubt I don't because there will be another one.
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Old 07-20-2017, 09:26 PM
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hey if that little scratch stops you from buying a 1006 please let us know where it is at so one of our other members can buy it....I would not let that bother you especially if you are going to be shooting it and carrying it....
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Old 07-20-2017, 09:37 PM
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If the price is right, buy it and enjoy it

I really do not worry too much about scratches on 25+ year old shooters.

As you said, it is stainless and can be easily refinished.
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:37 AM
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My Model 645 has a light idiot scratch in the same place. I bought it that way. I'm sure I could fix it (or have it fixed) easily enough but it's not even worth the effort at this point and won't be unless and until I decide to sell it someday (doubtful).
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Old 07-21-2017, 03:28 PM
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I've hesitated to post in this thread, but here goes. If it were me, I would probably not purchase it. This is because I know, even though it's not a big deal, it would bug me. That's why I seek out and will pay a bit of premium for 3rd Gens in 99%+ condition or better. Each time I would picked it up, I would focus on the scratch. On the other hand, it would not bother my brother at all. He simply focuses on function and accuracy . . . far more tolerant of condition.


So, if you aren't anal about this type of stuff, then buy it. However, given your original post, I suspect that it might bug you, too. Therefore, "choose wisely." Good luck.
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Old 07-21-2017, 03:56 PM
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Which is best way to b!end scratch marks on Smith & Wesson stainless hand guns, scotch pad or tapping wet or dry sandpaper with small hammer. I have used sandpaper an hammer method with good results but never tried scotch brite just not sure if it would blend in. I can see how scotch brite could work if I was going over complete gun to satin finish it but not sure if it would blend in. Any have pictures.

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Old 07-21-2017, 08:59 PM
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Default Glass beads

I would say buy it, u can get it media blasted with fine glass beads, will look 100% new...
Here is a 5906 I bought with some scratches and holster wear, I tore it apart and blasted it with 120 grit fine glass beads...looks new now...
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Old 07-21-2017, 09:40 PM
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If you would give us the asking price, you would get better answers... easy to say "buy it" but condition / price is everything.
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Old 07-21-2017, 10:20 PM
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I got this 4566 years ago. It was VERY scratched up and had that same slide stop mark. The grips looked like they had been chewed on. I think it must have been a police trade in because outside it was really beat, but inside it was excellent, although the trigger play spring had been removed. I paid just over &300.00 for it and I thought I'd just leave it alone.
After getting some arched grips and putting a trigger play spring in, I decided to try to "clean up" the outside. I just used a scotch brite pad and took my time. It is not as nice as a new bead blast, and it doesn't look factory, but it is better. I don't think I would do this to one that I paid allot for, but I shouldn't have to.
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Old 07-22-2017, 05:02 PM
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So what are the ball park price ranges these days for S&W 10mm? Just earlier this year I paid $525 for a 1076, figured that was a fair price.
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Old 07-22-2017, 05:29 PM
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Well, you just about stole the 1076, unless it was missing parts from having been drug behind a truck on a gravel road. Today's prices, 1006 with 1 mag and nothing else: $700-750. 1076, probably $50-75 more. Extra mags, add about $75-80 each. This assumes average, used but not horribly abused condition. Box and all the goodies, including matching end label probably adds $50-75. Maybe more to some people and maybe nothing to some.
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Old 07-22-2017, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
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So what are the ball park price ranges these days for S&W 10mm? Just earlier this year I paid $525 for a 1076, figured that was a fair price.
Great price...I paid $600 for a 1006 with 3 mags a couple months ago...
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Old 07-22-2017, 07:41 PM
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If this is the LGS in Jax where I saw a 1006 last week, it was priced intriguingly. The wear marks turned me off a little, but I'm not in the market for a 10mm.

I just bought a 2 1/2" 66-2 from them in better condition than this, for less.
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Old 07-22-2017, 08:26 PM
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Great price...I paid $600 for a 1006 with 3 mags a couple months ago...
You got a real good deal also. Deals are out there. I paid $318 for a decent 1006 about 4 years ago. They were selling in the $6-700 range at the time. But, the good deals dry up real quickly.
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Old 07-23-2017, 03:07 AM
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Wow just saw all the replies lol, I got one email not realized there were other replies...

Price was $800. I am mulling it over still. Yes Jax LGS.
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Old 07-24-2017, 06:15 PM
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Would up grabbing it... got the price down a bit, but not as much as I wanted . Has the Hogue grip, I might pick up a oem grip, but I suspect the Hogue is more comfortable. Might try the scotch pad, I've done it before on a matte Colt with decent results - never tried the hammer/sandpaper method.

Picked up a couple HD mags, here's some quick pics going to tear it down and give it a good going through and cleaning... Maybe pickup some fresh springs, etc for it as well.



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Old 07-24-2017, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78Staff View Post
Would up grabbing it... got the price down a bit, but not as much as I wanted . Has the Hogue grip, I might pick up a oem grip, but I suspect the Hogue is more comfortable. Might try the scotch pad, I've done it before on a matte Colt with decent results - never tried the hammer/sandpaper method.

Picked up a couple HD mags, here's some quick pics going to tear it down and give it a good going through and cleaning... Maybe pickup some fresh springs, etc for it as well.



Good deal. Glad you got it. The Hogue grips are more comfortable for me anyway. You know if you ever want to sell it you won't have a hard time.

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Old 07-25-2017, 08:05 PM
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Default Marks Bug Me, Too . . .

. . . But, puh-leeze, do not polish that sucker. It'll still sell if need be but I just don't think you'll realize top dollar for diminishing the 1006's value. I've got a 1006 and 1076 and I'll buy any other dadgum S&W 10 that I can get my hands around and deeply enough in my wallet without hitting just leather.

There are some really, really good works in this forum on bead blasting third-generation Smith & Wesson pistols. Why, one or two even are chock-full of pictures to go with the verbiage.

Search for 'em, learn and buy the needed el-cheapo-supremo materials in the capitalistic open markets, then take the newfound knowledge and materials, along with a couple of 12 packs of a beer type generally consumed by area gearheads to one having a bead blaster. The shop housing it will likely be in an industrial area of town, on one side or another of the area's railroad tracks where you likely wouldn't otherwise traipse.

They'll love to see what you want to do, be thankful as all get-out for the beer, turn the bead-blaster over to you or, if lacking the skills, probably would LOVE to take a whack at it themselves (and do a grrr-reat job) and you'll find 'em to be very hospitable.

Now, I can't possibly know the heads of each gearhead to be found in this great land of ours, but I'll guarantee you they'll be okay or better folks.

I've done exactly as stated above and not only am I still alive, I've got some great-looking third generation guns that I bought for cheap and they now look like million bucks! And my then new-found buds are still "there" for me whenever needed!

Really.

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Old 07-25-2017, 09:34 PM
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Tabletop Sandblasting cabinet at Harbor Freight is around $100
same for a good compressor too
Catch 'em on sale or with the 20% off coupon...
you'll use 'em for all sorts of cleaning jobs!!

Used mine of clean off some 40-yr old HO scale track
that was really dirty...used walnut shell media.
Sparkly Clean now
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Shrek View Post
Tabletop Sandblasting cabinet at Harbor Freight is around $100
same for a good compressor too
Catch 'em on sale or with the 20% off coupon...
you'll use 'em for all sorts of cleaning jobs!!

Used mine of clean off some 40-yr old HO scale track
that was really dirty...used walnut shell media.
Sparkly Clean now
Yeah I have almost bought that sucker a few times lol. Just didn't want it taking up space in the garage as it probably wouldn't get used very often.

No polishing, I like the matte or blasted look for sure.
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Old 07-26-2017, 08:48 PM
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Default And I LOVE Walnuts, Too!

Heck, I've already got a darn decent compressor.

My beer bill is just about to go down.

Later.
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Old 07-26-2017, 10:14 PM
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78Staff: Good for you. The 1006 is a great pistol. I remember when I spotted my 1076 and 1006 pistols up on consignmentback in around 2008. It appeared they had been put up by the same guy. Both were in 98-99% condition. Well, I immediately bought the 1076 for $550. When I got home, I called my older brother and told him what I bought . . . and what I left on the table, a 1006 for $500. He immediately spoke to me in a very,very blunt manner that only a brother would do. So, following his instructions, I got my tail back over to the dealer and purchased the 1006, too. Boy, am I glad I did that!
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Old 07-30-2017, 12:47 AM
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Was able to shoot it today, and was somewhat surprised that the brass was getting pretty dramatic smiles coming out of the gun... This is Stock Sig 10mm ammo (1200-1250 typically depending on gun), nothing exotic. Basically looks like the glock smile, and didn't expect it based on reports of how well this gun handles full power ammo... Downgraded range loads came out OK, but it becomes a light 40 at that point . Just not what I expected.



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Old 07-30-2017, 04:47 AM
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Those smiles aren't normal. I've never gotten any on my 1076. I don't have mine in front of me to compare but that looks like too much case exposed at the ramp. Can you tell if anybody modified the ramp profile?

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Old 07-30-2017, 01:17 PM
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Those SMILES look to exceed the in battery position of the chamber!
What recoil spring are you running? Have you changed the recoil Spring?
The slide could be opening early...
I'm running the Wolff 22lbs spring in mine.

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Old 07-30-2017, 02:15 PM
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Yes. Replace the recoil spring with a new, full power spring and try that again. Neither of my 10XX pistols have brass like that. How far is it throwing the brass?
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78Staff View Post
Was able to shoot it today, and was somewhat surprised that the brass was getting pretty dramatic smiles coming out of the gun... This is Stock Sig 10mm ammo (1200-1250 typically depending on gun), nothing exotic. Basically looks like the glock smile, and didn't expect it based on reports of how well this gun handles full power ammo... Downgraded range loads came out OK, but it becomes a light 40 at that point . Just not what I expected.
Not entirely unexpected...but, just in case,
check chamber carefully for excess crud...
someone might have shot a few .40 S&W's
in there, so it's always nice to check & clean
real well
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Old 08-08-2017, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78Staff View Post
Would up grabbing it... got the price down a bit, but not as much as I wanted . Has the Hogue grip, I might pick up a oem grip, but I suspect the Hogue is more comfortable. Might try the scotch pad, I've done it before on a matte Colt with decent results - never tried the hammer/sandpaper method.

Picked up a couple HD mags, here's some quick pics going to tear it down and give it a good going through and cleaning... Maybe pickup some fresh springs, etc for it as well.



78Staff, I have a set of straight back grips I will send you for free if you want them. There used but in pretty good shape.
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Old 08-10-2017, 07:50 PM
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Hey thanks for the offer, but I had some issues with the 1006 and wound up returning it.
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Old 11-28-2017, 03:51 AM
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Default M1006 - another 10mm to justify reloading more...

Funny coincidence, I wasn't particularly looking for a 1006 but I found a good buy on one at the last Wannenmacher Gun Show.
Being weak, I bought it.

It had Hogue wooden grips on it, which at first made me think it was a 2nd Gen until I looked closer.

It was REALLY HARD to get the slide off & back on again when I inspected it before I agreed to buy it. I thought it might be a fitting issue & decided to buy it in spite of that.

Short story, it turned out that the Hogue wooden grips were causing the whole problem. When you disassemble/assemble the slide on the frame the ejector lever has to be pushed down fully, which forces the draw bar rearward past the edge of the grip frame.

The wooden grips were not trimmed enough to let it freely move, so the bar barely went back enough (& lever down enough), causing the slide to drag on the lever, rather than moving smoothly.

A new set of rubber Hogues fixed that.

Now my 1076 has a big brother to look up to.

.

M1006, w/Hogues

(-01c)

.
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:06 PM
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Those SMILES look to exceed the in battery position of the chamber! What recoil spring are you running? Have you changed the recoil Spring? The slide could be opening early...
Recoil spring weight does not retard the action from opening or control slide velocity. It purpose is to return the barrel/slide to battery and strip rounds from the magazine. That timing is controlled by the angled bottom barrel lug. Most modern guns are design so they cannot fire when out of battery although there are exceptions.

Bruce

Last edited by BruceM; 12-03-2017 at 05:07 PM.
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  #35  
Old 12-03-2017, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 78Staff View Post
Yeah I have almost bought that sucker a few times lol. Just didn't want it taking up space in the garage as it probably wouldn't get used very often.

No polishing, I like the matte or blasted look for sure.
I've found that when you have a cabinet, you start looking for excuses to use it

Don't worry about it "just sitting", because you've got tools that need de-rusting,
barn door hardware that needs cleaning, you can etch patterns in glass with it,
literally a HUNDRED good uses for it that you only discover once you
get one and start looking for Ideas on the 'net
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BLUEDOT37 View Post
Funny coincidence, I wasn't particularly looking for a 1006 but I found a good buy on one at the last Wannenmacher Gun Show.
Being weak, I bought it.

It had Hogue wooden grips on it, which at first made me think it was a 2nd Gen until I looked closer.

It was REALLY HARD to get the slide off & back on again when I inspected it before I agreed to buy it. I thought it might be a fitting issue & decided to buy it in spite of that.

Short story, it turned out that the Hogue wooden grips were causing the whole problem. When you disassemble/assemble the slide on the frame the ejector lever has to be pushed down fully, which forces the draw bar rearward past the edge of the grip frame.

The wooden grips were not trimmed enough to let it freely move, so the bar barely went back enough (& lever down enough), causing the slide to drag on the lever, rather than moving smoothly.

A new set of rubber Hogues fixed that.

Now my 1076 has a big brother to look up to.

.

M1006, w/Hogues

(-01c)

.
Take a few minutes with some sandpaper and fix that!!
Then you can slap 'em on a 4500 or something
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:16 PM
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Hey thanks for the offer, but I had some issues with the 1006 and wound up returning it.
Now THAT is the kinda stuff this forum LIVES for!!
We LOVE fixing problems!!

Just let folks know what the issues were, and where it is, and
one of the more adept members will likely buy it and fix it
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:31 PM
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BlueDot, Looks like a nice 10mm good luck!
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