I think those vertical lines S&W cut on the front strap of many 3rd gens are completely useless. Further I think cutting those was a utter waste of machine time that could have been spent elsewhere to greater benefit.

Anyway... In effort to increase the "gription" on my 4506 I considered a few options. Much as I like hand cut checkering that's about impossible here due to the forward curve at the bottom of the frontstrap. Hard to get in there with a checkering file to cut the verticals when ya cant lay the file flat on the work.
Although I probably could do diamonds by hand but, that pattern wouldn't have a lot of coverage here. Machine cut checkering is out too, I don't have the fixture or tooling for that just yet.

So, plan "C" is try my hand at stippling. I used a swiss Badeco hammer handpiece powered by a Foredom LX motor (low speed & high torque). The toolbit used is badeco HSS that I fiddled with quite a bit grinding and re-shaping until I got the profile just right. I didn't want the tool stabby sharp but more of a blunted conical shape so the result on the workpiece would be somewhat like a miniature meteor craters. It took a good deal of trail and error on some scrap steel to get the point just right.

In the end... increased gription acheived and doesn't look half bad What do ya think?

Cheers
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

Get a rope...

To me it looks great, but is it aggressive enough to give you a good grip? I have hand stippled some and make it more aggressive with a punch filled to a sharp point and oil hardened. Some are struck at an angle to raise a point.



Not the best angle, but you should be able to see the front strap stippling.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I just did a Hi Power by hand. Can you link to the type of equipment you used. Would make any future endeavors much easier for me. It looks great!

For the record I was not after very aggressive cheesegratery or woodraspy profile a'la Jim Clarks stippling. Rubbing on the front strap now feels about the same as rubbing on slighty used 180 grit sandpaper. Vast improvement over what it was and Bonus! this texture is a pretty close match to the stippling Karl Nills applies to his 4506 grips which I'll probably be sticking on here eventually.

Cheers
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

Should I be expecting a lynch mob??

Umm Cheers?
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

Ok but it's a pretty costly investment unless you're going to be doing a bunch of stuff.

Badeco 222 hammer handpiece:
Badeco Swiss Hammer Handpiece-222 Heavy Spring-No Duplex | OttoFrei.com

HSS & Carbide hammer points:
Badeco High Speed Steel and Super Carbide Tips For Hammer Ha | OttoFrei.com

Driven by Foredom LX motor with dial speed control:
Series LX Hang Up Motor with Dial Speed Control

The LX motor is required as you must not run a hammer handpiece over 5k rpm. The LX is a high torque motor limited to 5k rpm max.


Cheers
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

Nice, I like the look. I have some pistols with fairly aggressive stippling, and for the most part find it unnecessary. All you need is something that gives a little traction, and that looks to do it. Do you have a picture of the bit you're using? I have a similar rotary tool, with a chisel set up, I wonder if I couldn't alter one of the chisel points to give a more rounded punch. Also, did you using anything to keep you from over running the flats?

Looks great to me- job well done.

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Guns + Dogs= Bliss

It looks good. In such an application, I would like to err on the side of too light rather than too aggressive.

Looks like it was a fun project and turned out nice! I stick to traction tape myself, but this is much higher class.

I tried a number of different grinds on the bit before I settled on this one. About a 120° included angle conical point blunted or rounded over at the very tip and polished on a 600grit diamond stone.

Here's a pic of the handpiece and the tool bit. The bit is high speed steel and 2.5mm diameter.

Oh and clamping in my vise with jaws lined with 18ga copper...Line up the edge of the flats such that the jaw will keep the bit off the flats. Have to frequently reposition when working around curves at the top and bottom of the front strap to keep from going over the edge.

Cheers
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

I like it.....but I too wonder how you got right to the edge of the transition to the flats without peening over............is peening a word?

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witty signature goes here

But first... Tar & feathers.

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Expect the unexpected

To get a more secure grip many of my concealed carry 3rd Gen Smith's sport stippled grips.

I do all the checkered area....... sides and backstrap. A fish scale pattern with a soldering iron.......

Warning..... just go slow; don't overheat the grips or you can warp the front/top/bottom edges of the grip........ if you do; boiling water will allow you to adjust them ( submerge ( about 30 seconds) the section of the grips that's warped then squeeze the sides together/hold till cool) back into shape.

I generally over compensate and have to "force" the grips over the frame, for a really good, tight fit.

You just destroyed any value that 4506 could of had. Other than that looks pretty good seems like it would still be a bit slick.

The old High Standards came from the factory looking like that. Looks like a good job to me.

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I don't understand the urge to stipple a gun grip. I shoot a 4566 and a 6906 and haven't had a grip issue yet. I'll admit I haven't dipped my hand in warm blood, hot oil, and stinky sweat and then fired them, but what is the issue with gripping a gun?

I've shot .44 Magnum Blackhawks without having to regrip after every shot. Whatever makes people feel they "need more grip" in any non-magnum hand cannon escapes me.


Having said that, it looks like a decent job, much better than some of the butcher jobs some post for approval.

The advantage of stippling is a secure grip WHEN your hands are wet, sweaty.......or bloody.

Very nice BMCM! You are a true craftsman. Best regards 18DAI

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7 +1 Rounds of hope & change

Reminds me of very fine engraving. Nice work as always, Bill!

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Ukraine -- now more than ever

I took a different tack... I used the milling attachment on my Unimat to relieve underneath the grip panels on my 1911A1, a M39-2, a tiny Jennings & applied skateboard tape. The grip panels keep the edges from getting loose.

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NRA LIFE
Reserve Officer 9yrs

BMCM
I have to agree with you on the vertical cuts on 3rd gen forward grips being kind of useless. They look good but in my experience don’t help with grip. In order of preference in this area I like stippling, checkering, horizontal cuts then a distant fourth vertical cuts just above no treatment at all. I do find a well stippled or checkered fore grip gives me a better grip on the gun especially when drawing from the holster or when sweaty.
The stippling on your gun looks nice but appears to me to be about the same as bead blasting as it is so fine. I had a Kimber that came with what looked to be bead blasting on the fore grip. It worked well.