I just purchased a S&W Victory .22 pistol. On the first trip to the range I was shooting CCI hp ammo, and I had no problems until I hit round 86. Suddenly the pistol would not fire. It appears that something in the striker mechanism has failed, as it will not fire. So back to S&W it will go. Obviously I'm NOT happy.

First thing I'd check is that little trigger over travel screw on the trigger. it happened to me. Wouldn't fire. I bet it backed in too much preventing the trigger to reset. Check it. if it was loose then it needs to be properly adjusted and set with blue loctite

Despite the YouTube gunsmith suggestions, removing the magazine disconnect caused mine to have trigger reset problems.

Since this isn't a carry pistol, I don't have any intention of removing the magazine disconnect. It's just for plinking.

My 16 year old 22S is yet to miss a round of a dozen types of ammo.

Attached Images

22LRSWM22S.jpg (75.7 KB, 73 views)

And how is this helpful?

I agree with the suggestion to check the trigger over travel screw.
Might save being without your new toy for a while.

You might choose to buy a S&W 22S or 22A and avoid the Victory problems?

I doubt the OP actually has a 1985 DeLorean but if he did, a 422, 622 or 2206 would be better choices than any 22A or Victory, and less homely at the same time.

I'm sure it is the trigger over travel screw as that happened to me as well using a Tandemkross trigger.

You will like the victory it is very accurate. I have over 10,000 rounds through mine and have had no issues except for the firing pin spring breaking and causing misfires.

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40 yrs Millwright Machinist

This is another vote for checking the overtravel screw on the trigger. Take your time in checking the trigger and components on the pistol. I also have a Victory that I have fired about 4 different brands of ammo through without a hitch. The Victory is a very nice pistol and has many happy owners. Don't get discouraged.

Oh, and we trust that you will keep us informed on your progress.

When mine did what you are describing it turned out to be the firing pin spring. But mine broke at 10,080 rounds, not 86.

I was able to secure a bag of 5 from tandom kross for about $10.

S&W will take care of the repair which is what I would recommend at such a low round count. Hopefully it was just an anomaly.

I haven't heard anything good about them!

Trigger over travel screw adjusted, gun back up and running!

Sad that common problems don't have a common fix before they leave the factory.

make sure to use loctite on the threads cause it will do it again if you don't. Glad you got it working!

IMHO, THE QUALITY CONTROL FUNCTION HAS INCREASINGLY BEEN SHIFTED, FROM PART OF THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS, TO THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE END USER OF THE PRODUCT......

I HAVE NO IDEA HOW THIS COULD BE COST EFFECTIVE, AS WARRANTY WORK ENTAILS FREE SHIPPING BOTH WAYS. ALSO, GOOD WILL AND FAITH IN S&W PRODUCTS, AND THEIR CUSTOMER SERVICE IS DAMAGED BY NOT-INFREQUENT REPORTS OF REPEAT RETURNS, TO ADDRESS THE VERY SAME PROBLEM......

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

Overtravel adjustment screws have a tendency to wander on every pistol equipped with one, regardless of the manufacturer. It's common knowledge.

If I had liked the Ruger products at all I would have kept the Ruger guns I had but since I have had better service and enjoyment from my Smith Products I kept them. I also do NOT go on the Ruger Website and bash their products ever.Anybody who comes on here and does that loses all sence of credibility when they do that. The OP's problem was a very simple fix which is a lot easier then even trying to clean a slightly older Ruger model.

Glad to hear that you have it fixed! Enjoy your Victory.

They shouldn't. It's a screw, not an Atlas rocket.

Showoff

Here is my 18 year old 22S which I purchased new on 3/28/2000 for $249.00.



Total reliability to this day, hefty at 41 oz's, great plinker.

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Doesn't hasta call me Johnson

As much as I like my Victory pistol, I have always felt that the series of pistols like yours is nicer looking.

Fiber optic sights are good....oops they're plastic!

Okay, so it looks like I'm explaining this.

Screws are held in place by mechanical friction on the threads. The threads provide friction when you're screwing into a material, like wood or metal. That's why the screws in your deck don't come out, and why they require a lot of torque to move from the beginning to the end.

When you're dealing with a pre-threaded hole, though, there's no friction. That's where the head comes into play. When you tighten the screw all the way in, the head contacts the surface of the material. As you apply more torque, the threads want to keep pulling the whole screw further in. But the head can't move any further--it's stuck against the surface! So it begins pulling back against the threads--providing mechanical friction.

That's why the screws holding the grips on your gun don't come out, and why they're easy to turn at first and only hard at the end.

Without mechanical friction, then the screw is just sitting there, moving and turning every time there's some vibration.

The overtravel adjustment screw is in a pre-drilled hole in the trigger. The way it works is, the threads connect the trigger to the screw. You can't separate the two through axial (front-to-back) force. All you can do is turn the screw, to move it forward and backward inside the trigger.

The bottom end of the screw, when it's adjusted right, will come in contact with some fixed part of the gun, usually the frame, right after the trigger breaks. That's how it works--no magic trickery in the gun's fire control guts, just one piece of metal hitting another. If you tighten the OAS too far, the gun won't go off. Just right, and the trigger and just about push the sear out of the hammer's notch, and out of the way of any half-cock notches the gun might have.

Now, there's no way to get mechanical friction on the threads of an OAS, because the head never bottoms out against the surface. And you don't want it to be very tight in the trigger--after all, you want the user to be able to turn it easily, with a very small Allen wrench. And usually, triggers are aluminum or plastic and some other ****** material.

If you knew how far in the OAS had to go, and made it so that it bottomed-out and locked before the gun failed to fire, then you could just make a non-adjustable overtravel stop with a peg. But the whole point of the OAS is to provide a user-adjustable overtravel stop, while being easier to manufacture.

I'm sorry to say that IMHO it doesn't take much to look better than the Victory. I'm not bashing it but I just don't like it's looks. Now, to some it doesn't matter how a pistol looks (just look at all the Glock owners) instead only how it performs and I respect that.

Having said that and outside of the few small growing pains that most new pistols go through the Victory seems like a fine gun. I have a Talo 22A and it has been fine but I wandered off the reservation for my other .22lr pistols. I had the same overtravel screw problem with one of those.

I'm glad the OP's issue was easily rectified.