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Old 09-13-2018, 04:48 PM
dsf dsf is offline
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Default S&W Semi-Auto Wood Grips

I've already fitted a few sets of wood grips (Hogue, KSD) to the CS45, Shorty 40 and similar Smiths. I'm now doing the same to a Smith 1006 (Hogue wood) and wondering if there are any tricks short of the virtually full "glass bedding" I've done already trying to get the grips to fit rock solid, eliminating the back & forth rocking motion that seems inherent in the design. Whenever something other than the rubber Hogues or factory one piece is snapped in place the securing screw acts more as a pivot point than securely holding in place.

With the Hogue two piece, I'm inclined to use filler on the upper rear where the grip meets the underside of the tang. And on the inside, horizontal top panel cutout where it meets the frame. It seems to me using a few small thin fasteners on the inside edge between the grips would help, creates a sort of one piece grip that can still be separated.

Any suggestions based on practical experience?

Last edited by dsf; 09-13-2018 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 09-13-2018, 07:43 PM
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsf View Post
I've already fitted a few sets of wood grips (Hogue, KSD) to the CS45, Shorty 40 and similar Smiths. I'm now doing the same to a Smith 1006 (Hogue wood) and wondering if there are any tricks short of the virtually full "glass bedding" I've done already trying to get the grips to fit rock solid, eliminating the back & forth rocking motion that seems inherent in the design. Whenever something other than the rubber Hogues or factory one piece is snapped in place the securing screw acts more as a pivot point than securely holding in place.

With the Hogue two piece, I'm inclined to use filler on the upper rear where the grip meets the underside of the tang. And on the inside, horizontal top panel cutout where it meets the frame. It seems to me using a few small thin fasteners on the inside edge between the grips would help, creates a sort of one piece grip that can still be separated.

Any suggestions based on practical experience?
Perhaps this will help a bit...

Karl Nill 4506-1 grips fitted to a 1006. The frame window on the big 10 is longer and a tad narrower than that on a 4506-1 so I needed to do some fitting & molding here.


I did one side at a time. The frame was sprayed with Dow Corning Molykote 557 to serve as a mold release agent. Mounted the grip panel and secured with the fixing screws. Then filled the void with 3M Scotch-Weld DP270 Black epoxy potting compound. The DP270 is quite thin and flows very well to fill all the voids. After about six hours it cured enough to trim the excess with an X-acto knife. After 24 hours it's rock hard thus safe to pop the grip off and file it smooth flush with the wood.


What you don't see under the epoxy is a horizontal dovetail cut machined into the wood with a little tiny dovetail cutter about .085" wide on the big end. That cut mechanically anchors the epoxy fill to the wood such that no amount of force could pull the epoxy off without destroying the wood.


I know these are not quite the same as the Hogue wood but thought my experience might give you an idea how to proceed.

Cheers
Bill
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:41 PM
Barrie Barrie is offline
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My last set of custom grips were made by KSD and they fit just perfect. I bought these last Black Friday in their sale with 40% off. They are a exact perfect fit and the workmanship is superb on them as well. I ordered on a Friday and had them 3 days later at my door here in Canada as well. I have Never seen faster service from any maker anywhere.
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Old 09-13-2018, 11:44 PM
dsf dsf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMCM View Post
Perhaps this will help a bit...

Karl Nill 4506-1 grips fitted to a 1006. The frame window on the big 10 is longer and a tad narrower than that on a 4506-1 so I needed to do some fitting & molding here.


I did one side at a time. The frame was sprayed with Dow Corning Molykote 557 to serve as a mold release agent. Mounted the grip panel and secured with the fixing screws. Then filled the void with 3M Scotch-Weld DP270 Black epoxy potting compound. The DP270 is quite thin and flows very well to fill all the voids. After about six hours it cured enough to trim the excess with an X-acto knife. After 24 hours it's rock hard thus safe to pop the grip off and file it smooth flush with the wood.


What you don't see under the epoxy is a horizontal dovetail cut machined into the wood with a little tiny dovetail cutter about .085" wide on the big end. That cut mechanically anchors the epoxy fill to the wood such that no amount of force could pull the epoxy off without destroying the wood.


I know these are not quite the same as the Hogue wood but thought my experience might give you an idea how to proceed.

Cheers
Bill
Thanks. Am giving that a try with epoxy and some Brownells release agent. Considering how the grips slip into place, any problem removing them with the tight fit?
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Old 09-14-2018, 12:01 AM
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No problems in my case. With these Nill grips I pull the screws and just bump the trigger guard with a soft hammer or screwdriver handle 'till one side lifts up. Just like how you'd pop a sideplate off a revolver. I don't have any experience with the Hogue wood so can't really speak to how troublesome , or not, they might be.

Cheers
Bill
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Old 09-15-2018, 02:32 AM
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Pretty much duplicating the above, all came out well. The Hogues have a metal lip that slips over the inside front grip frame, helps everything snug up well. Being a two piece made dropping in the epoxy easy.
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