S&W manual shows one drop of oil on slide rails and top of barrel. But it seems there should be more lubrication (grease?) particularly on aluminum guns where barrel interacts with frame. And I have seen video suggesting lubrication of drawbar.

I have also seen argument that too much oil causes dirt accumulation and can cause problems.

So what is the consensus on Lubrication Points and lubricants?
And what are differences for Long Term Storage vs Daily Use?

I use a little light grease on the slide rails and barrel cam ramps of my 4003. Otherwise just a light drop of oil at the muzzle, and a light wipe on the top of the barrel block. Yes, over oiling can lead to dirt and grit retention, but since I usually clean my pistols after every range session, I'm not concerned. As for long term storage, since I live in a dry climate, a thorough wipe with a good oil works for me.

For type of lubricant, it's personal preference. I prefer oil. Currently using Lubriplate, but I've used Break Free CLP and Gun Butter with good results. But either grease or oil will work, when used properly, i.e., don't fill every crevice with grease. A light application of the proper weight grease should work fine.

Don't have a 3rd Gen S&W, but in general I like to put a short line of oil on the rear of the inside slide rail where it mates with the frame. A drop or two of oil where the barrel mates with the slide, smeared around with my finger. Other lube points are gun/model-specific, so can't comment on those with S&W guns. Re-assemble and cycle the slide a few times. Wipe off any excess lube.

Ask 10 people for suggestions and you'll probably get 12 answers.

For long-term storage, a good wipe down with oil is good. There are some lubricants/protectants that are specifically designed for long-term storage. FWIW, my blued 1911s were wiped down with CLP and stored in a foam-lined case for 20+ years and didn't show any rust. I did have to give them a thorough cleaning and re-lube, but they work fine.

Hope that helps.

There are many different methods to lubricating a gun.
Some people overthink it or overdo it.

As long as something slick is between any moving metal surfaces, you are good.
I like CLP and don't mess with grease.

I personally oil the barrel on slide contact points and use grease for the rails. Especially on the aluminum frame guns where I just follow the SIG advice of using generous amounts of grease for the frame rails.

Good point, but you might even get the same answer from 2 different people
Thanks for the response - hoping to get to at least 10
Best, Ed

I used oil in the old days and got on the grease bandwagon after buying Sigs. I use a light coat of grease on the frame rails of my semiautos and oil on the barrel muzzle and hood. Usually Slip 2000 EWG or Mobil 1 synthetic grease and Slip 2000 EWL oil.

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Made it, Ma! Top of the world!

We need a lubrication sticky up top, seems this topic comes up often.

There is a retired LEO and S&W armorer on YouTube that offers insight on lubrication and over lubrication. In addition he has many more YouTube videos about guns. I like his videos and trust his statements.

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U.S. Coast Guard, retired CPO

I kinda figure that if S&W spend all that money to print those manuals I should at least read them at least once. I lubricate as the manuals recommends.

I like to use a small amount of grease on the rails.

I'm a grease on the rails kinda guy, too. Oil elsewhere. Really, though, it boils down to personal preference as long as you use something.

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Or something like that . . .

I use a very, very thin smear of white lithium grease on frame and slide rails. I am a fan of the old axiom, "if it slides, grease it, if it rotates, oil it".

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

The only experience that I have with grease is with Frog Lube, but here are my impressions based on it...

Frog Lube has a delightful, minty fresh scent, is non-toxic, and when applied correctly works fantastic, but there's the rub... The application process of Frog Lube is a bit more involved than it is with other cleaners and the instructions must be followed precisely, otherwise it will gunk up your firearm something awful and require meticulous cleaning to get out. Basically, you have to melt the stuff first by either heating the firearm or the Frog Lube directly with a hair-dryer, then you apply it once for cleaning, let it sit for awhile, then clean it out, then you apply it again for lubrication, let it sit for awhile, and wipe it all off with a rag. Through this process, the Frog Lube gets into the pores of the metal and ultimately becomes something like a protective wax over the surface of the the firearm, but the problem is that it doesn't feel all that slick afterwards, so it's easy to doubt that it's actually efficient, which often leads to folks applying more to the rails and things. Problem is, any bit of dust, lint, or debris that gets into the excess Frog Lube will eventually turn it into rubber cement, ergo if you second-guess the instructions, you're left with an awful mess.

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Shooting Comfort is bilateral.

When somebody says his lubricant is getting in the pores of steel, I tend to shop elsewhere.

I use a small amount of Tetra gun grease on rails except on rimfire, where I go with gun oil. I also use a small amount of stainless steel specific grease on all stainless pistols. I have no argument with the people who go with oil. What I do works for me. I am happy with it.

Frog Lube is the devils snot! After a really good field test following the instructions to the letter, I would never use it again, especially on a gun that I might want to depend on to save my life. I tried it on several guns with the same result. One gun was a M&P 45. I thoroughly cleaned the gun and heated it before applying the lube. After heating the gun and wiping off all of the excess, I was pretty impressed. The gun felt dry but still had a lot of lubricity. Exactly what I was looking for as I wanted a dry finish that would not attract dust and dirt. It was great until I shot the gun. After about 5 rounds, the gun started to become sluggish and would not eject with any type of reliability. A gooey substance that looked like maple syrup started to seep out from around the trigger. I had this same experience with the other guns I used it on. I had to have my 22 target pistol detail stripped by a gunsmith it got so gummed up. I threw the remainder of the stuff in the trash. Use this **** at your own risk! Since this debacle, I started using MPro-7 cleaner and CLP. I was turned no to it by a friend who used it in Afghanistan and it works very well. There are no free lunches.

Not a fan of any lube that requires some special process to apply, like Frog Lube. I'm just too lazy for that.

FWIW, I did use Tetra gun grease on slide rails for my 1911s and Beretta 92FS back in the 90s. Never had an issue with it. However, I read not too long ago that if left to sit Tetra lube can rot, deteriorate, and get moldy, so probably not the best choice for long-term storage.

I love this stuff. I picked up 10 tubes for $10 at the gun show. GARY.

Johnson's Baby Oil (mineral oil) wiped on with an oiled rag. That helps keep the oil film to minimal thickness.
My guiding principles with regards to lubricant:
Less is more.
More is less.

Gunslick on the rails, if you can still find any.

On centerfire auto pistols, a small amount of grease on slide rails, fore and aft.
I've used Tetra grease, Slide Glide Brian Enos' grease, 'Gun Butter', white lithium, and once even a little marine-grade axle grease (tiny amount).

And a too-large collection of most oils/lubes seen on the market, from Lucas to an old can of Sears Gun Oil, which is probably a collectors item.

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Ret'd LEO
SWCA #2275

NeverEnding answers and opinions to a never-ending thread.

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2 Cor 5:17
John3:16

Grease being thicker will normally trap more residue than oil...but since we handgunners clean our gun after each use(don't we all?)the difference shouldn't matter.
I still own and shoot guns I bought in the early '70s and they still work fine. I'd say slickier than when new.And no,I don't clean my guns after each and every use.
We handgunners tend to overdo it(cleaning).But if you feel confortable with it,be my guest!

Just curious: which 3rd Gen model(s) are you asking about lubricating?

Any / all - from 5906 to 3953 to 6944. But my primary concern is the lower part of steel barrel where it interfaces with aluminum frame on the 39x3 and 69xx series. It seems like it should have some help with sliding. I am currently only using a drop of oil on rails and top of barrel per manual I have for 5906.

I have a theory that certain environmental conditions such as the climate (ambient temperature, humidity, etc) can adversely affect Frog Lube due to the fact that for some folks (such as myself) it works fantastic so long as the instructions are followed, yet for others such as yourself it doesn't work at all and turns into rubber cement regardless of how closely the instructions are followed.

I still use Frog Lube because the only problems I've ever had were my own fault for doubting the instructions, otherwise it works extremely well. However, I also really like Ballistol, save for the horrible smell, that is. Honestly, everytime I think that I'm getting used to the smell and that it isn't so bad, I end up using it again then being promptly reminded of just how foul that stuff smells fresh out of the can. Once Ballistol has settled it smells okay, but fresh out of the can it's like a decomposing skunk or something, just awful.

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Shooting Comfort is bilateral.

Neither my Glock 30 nor 6906 had any problem at all with Froglube. Many complain about the application process, but it's pretty much a one time deal. The problems come in when one doesn't trust it and goes with "the bigger the glob, the better the job." When it says wipe off excess--it means wipe off excess!

To properly lubricate S&W, just do this:

"One drop of oil on slide rails and top of barrel" ...as S&W manual says.

Oil vs. grease? Doesn't matter. Use whatever costs less. It will give the same result.
For a long time storage I'd suggest Eezox, which leaves long lasting coating on lubricated parts.
Too much oil for everyday carry or shooting is not good. Only 1911 likes more oil. All modern handguns can even run dry.

For Semi Auto's I use a drop of Breakfree CLP Oil on the Rails, Barrel and Pivot Points but I do not slather them.

This is some amazing stuff.

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Was issued my badge and a model 10 in 1977. Our rangemaster supplied Hoppes No. 9 solvent, gun oil, and M1 rifle grease. His counsel was to "use oil if it revolves, grease if it slides". I have done this ever since and have never had a problem.

I've used Break Free almost exclusively since 1977, and had no lube or rust issues. I put a couple of drops on the rails, rack the slide a few times, and wipe off the excess.

This is going to get good.

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2 Cor 5:17
John3:16

My car's pistons slide, yet they are lubricated by oil.

My car's wheel bearings rotate, yet they are lubricated with grease? Wut up wiff that?

I do not recall ever seeing a gun manufacturer reccomending grease anywhere on a gun. But, what would they know???

I knew someone was going to ask that question, all I had to do was sit back and wait. You cannot grease the pistons in an engine, plain and simple. There is simply no way to keep grease on the pistons and piston rings.

Lubrication of the pistons is dependent upon oil being slung onto the cylinder walls by the rotating crankshaft assembly. This will provide just enough lubrication to prevent premature wear and failure, but it is not a perfect system. There is a reason that cylinder bores in internal combustion engines slowly grow in size, ultimately requiring overhaul and reboring the cylinders oversize and installing new pistons and rings. The friction between the rings and bore, even though it is lubricated with oil, slowly wear away the bore.

As for wheel bearings, grease is used because of temperature and viscosity. Oils, being much lower in viscosity and having a lower flash point would tend to smoke and leak past the seals. Also, there is no pressurization or recirculation system for oiling wheel bearings. Grease on these components is a more durable lubricant.

The U.S. military manual for the M1 Garand rifle specifies grease to be applied to the bolt and operating rod channel on the side of the receiver, so some firearms do include a grease specification.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

CLEAN , OIL , SHOOT , REPEAT.
If you wear the pistol a lot and don't shoot it , wipe it down once a week. Or so.
Just "common sense ", not rocket science.

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2 Cor 5:17
John3:16