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  #51  
Old 11-03-2020, 12:21 PM
ElectroMotive ElectroMotive is offline
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Hi ElectroMotive,

Thanks for the comments. I didn't do well on the first attempt of the rear sight. On the second one, I think I did much better...it is not an easy sight to fit in and do a "perfect" job...

Yes, I used a low mount version of a Fusion sight.

Don't have any experience with the Hilton sights, but I will look them up...

Thanks again...

EDIT: Found them...!!!
I thought you used a 10-8 rear sight. 10-8 is a brand by Hilton Yam.

ETA: By the way, your SSV "Franken'smith" project inspired me to do one on a 5904 frame and 3913 slide. I cut the dustcover back like I mentioned in your past thread. Its kinda been back-burnered, what with all the goings on. But I'll get back on it shortly.

Last edited by ElectroMotive; 11-03-2020 at 12:23 PM.
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  #52  
Old 11-03-2020, 12:32 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Originally Posted by ElectroMotive View Post
I thought you used a 10-8 rear sight. 10-8 is a brand by Hilton Yam.

ETA: By the way, your SSV "Franken'smith" project inspired me to do one on a 5904 frame and 3913 slide. I cut the dustcover back like I mentioned in your past thread. Its kinda been back-burnered, what with all the goings on. But I'll get back on it shortly.
Looking fwd to see the build...please publish that thread !!!

I think I will use the SSV steel frame for one of these slides. After that, I will try to buy a 5903 to re-do the SSV. Depending on the condition of the frame, I might cut it to have the perfect alignment. However, there are a lot of "ifs" at the moment. The biggest one being, "how to refinish an alu frame at home?" (I think it can be done, maybe with gunkote in the "right" color)
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  #53  
Old 11-03-2020, 12:49 PM
ElectroMotive ElectroMotive is offline
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Looking fwd to see the build...please publish that thread !!!

I think I will use the SSV steel frame for one of these slides. After that, I will try to buy a 5903 to re-do the SSV. Depending on the condition of the frame, I might cut it to have the perfect alignment. However, there are a lot of "ifs" at the moment. The biggest one being, "how to refinish an alu frame at home?" (I think it can be done, maybe with gunkote in the "right" color)


With the cutting and filing I have done (I rounded the hooked trigger guard), my desire to checker the front strap, and the upper cut I want to add under the trigger guard, I think its prudent to have the frame blasted and re-anodized. In fact I am going to have it anodized in Mil-Spec Type-3 Hard Coat. I am fortunate in that I "work" a few days a week in a gunshop/manufacturer that can offer this service. When it comes back, then I'll decide whether to Cerakote it (we have this capability too).

I will also blast and Cerakote the slide. Before I do that, I'd like to add front cocking serrations, top strap serrations, and in a perfect world, lightening cuts in the slide. ("If you think classy, you'll be classy." - Crash Davis).

I am sourcing a decocker only lever, and kicking around having the finishes side of the shop do their Nickel Boron coating on all the internals, but also the controls, guide rod, and mmmmmmaybe the barrel.


I carry a Glock G45 everyday (basically a Glock 17 frame with a 19 slide), and this would be my S&W 3rd Gen version of that, even thought the SSV predated the G45 by almost 30 years.
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Old 11-03-2020, 07:42 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Default Slide #2 continues

Fitting the new rear sight:
I bought a different sight. I got a Heinie Slant Pro low profile. It was the same height as the Fusion but had a "smoother" profile. The sight was on sale on Heinie's website for $25 and shipping was $2 for a total of $27. A company officer attaches her business card to the order in case there is an issue, you can email her directly...I like this company...and I like the sight...a lot.


This time I took my time and used duck tape to protect the spaces I did not want to hit with the file. Also, the duct tape created a "ledge" that I could use to lean the file against and be more precise.





To avoid any dents and prevent the sight for flying and landing on the floor, I used a small piece of wood to drive to sight in and out. That allow me to have better control of the situation.









This sight has a bit more meat than the Fusion, that helped the small gap between the sight and the slide to disappear.

I must say I like a lot how it looks and I believe the sight acquisition would be great.

Taking care of small details:

I started to remove as many marks and imperfections from the slide as I could. I did it carefully, trying not to create a bigger mess than the one I was trying to solve.


Used stones from 600 grit to 1000 grit.


I tried to be careful not to distort the "lines" of the slide





There were some deep marks that bothered me...









So, I did the best I could in them...







Mistakes, mistakes, mistakes...
One night I had a heated argument with my 15 year old daughter, and I got really angry...the best idea I got was to get a beer and "go work on the slide". I was trying to square the flats by sanding them using a marble block using 400 to 600 grit paper...I must have been really mad, because I stroke it so hard that I started to erase some of the roll marks...

That night I went to bed furious...



I erased a bit of the E and a bit of one S. Next day I took it to some local engravers, but none of the could fix it, they wanted to re-do the whole thing and it wasn't an inexpensive job.

I was tempted to erase it all, and have a clean slide. But decided to leave it like that. I will be hard to notice with the "naked eye" and it will serve me as a reminder of not to work on projects when I'm mad.

more to come...

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-04-2020 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 11-03-2020, 10:16 PM
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Keep up the good work. I call it work but it seems more like a passion for you .

After you're done with this , you have to try your talents on a revolver . There's a post in the S&W smithing section , a member from Sweden(?) doing up a 686 . I could see you doing something like his , once you score a mill and lathe .
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  #56  
Old 11-03-2020, 10:36 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Keep up the good work. I call it work but it seems more like a passion for you .

After you're done with this , you have to try your talents on a revolver . There's a post in the S&W smithing section , a member from Sweden(?) doing up a 686 . I could see you doing something like his , once you score a mill and lathe .
thanks a lot...I will check that revolver build...

Currently I don't own any revolvers. I had a very nice mod 10 and I sold it to finance this project...

The milling machine is on my list...
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  #57  
Old 11-04-2020, 10:00 AM
Green Frog Green Frog is offline
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“ Mistakes, mistakes, mistakes...
One night I had a heated argument with my 15 year old daughter, and I got really angry...the best idea I got was to get a beer and "go work on the slide". I was trying to square the flats by sanding them using a marble block using 400 to 600 grit paper...I must have been really mad, because I stroke it so hard that I started to erase some of the roll marks...”

Our children’s jobs include making us proud, angry, or humble... often at the same time. Our jobs are to try to “train them up in the way they should go” and of course to embarrass them in front of their friends.

Froggie
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  #58  
Old 11-04-2020, 07:40 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Default Carry Cuts Part Deux

After fitting the sight, and getting ready of the "pesky" marks around the slide (most of them, not all)

I started to think about doing some carry cuts on the front of the slide.

There was a project by Squidsix some time ago that I liked a lot:

Hi Power cuts on 915 slide



So, something like that but maybe "shorter"? I started to look around the internet for some inspiration...



Perhaps something like this?

I decided to give it a try...




(bench vice, wood blocks and a file)
















(kind of complement each other...)




(Trying to imitate a Performance Center Slide)


(real Performance Center)

I really liked them...

I decided to make them a bit deeper...





Slide #2 was starting to take form...

more to come...

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-04-2020 at 09:34 PM.
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  #59  
Old 11-04-2020, 08:26 PM
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This is one of those where you log on and go directly to see if you've posted any more of your work . Like I said , I've been around sheet metal and structures in aviation and aerospace all of my working life . To see someone do this with hand tools and achieve these results is just a wonder .
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  #60  
Old 11-04-2020, 08:41 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Originally Posted by cherrypointmarine View Post
This is one of those where you log on and go directly to see if you've posted any more of your work . Like I said , I've been around sheet metal and structures in aviation and aerospace all of my working life . To see someone do this with hand tools and achieve these results is just a wonder .
thanks a lot...

...removing some of those file marks later on became a challenge...

But I like a lot how is coming together...(the front serrations were much tougher to make than this carry cuts)...
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  #61  
Old 11-05-2020, 07:50 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Default Slide #2 part Drei

Top Serrations?

I have seen top serrations on many custom guns. Again, like front serrations, none of my guns have them (I don't have any customs). I understand they reduce glare and let you focus better on the front sight...

...so, I decided to give them a try, after all I have already made a bunch of mistakes...


(I used sharpie marker to help me see better the lines, the zip tie was meant to act as a barrier protecting the front sight area).


(notice the golf ball handle )


(decided to cut the checkering file. I was too long and somehow I was hitting the area under the rear sight. I was concerned of creating a "gap" under the sight.




(it was hard to decide hot to "finish" the area where the top of the slide and the front sight area meet)






(some more protection, I really didn't want to damage that sight area)






(some testing with the rear sight installed)





The I decided to do some bevels to reduce the sharp area after the carry cuts. I tried to do the similar to what S&W used to do. I find this complicated, since it is hard to keep the "angle" consistent on both sides. This time I put a cork inside the barrel bushing and used it as a guide.












(dark area around the front of the slide is surface rust from sweaty hands, remember it is a carbon steel slide that will be blued)



more to come...
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Old 11-06-2020, 07:25 AM
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Nice job placing serrations on the top of the slide. This will be a really nice, custom 5906 when completed.
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  #63  
Old 11-06-2020, 11:03 AM
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This has been a most impressive thread.

You are VERY talented.
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Old 11-06-2020, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guzzitaco View Post
(it was hard to decide hot to "finish" the area where the top of the slide and the front sight area meet)


How did you get the serrations to properly follow that little ski jump leading up to the sight? Parallel, in other words. It seems like the file would lose its alignment when it lifts off the flat surface of the slide top.

This is amazing work, by the way.
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Old 11-06-2020, 01:54 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stansdds View Post
Nice job placing serrations on the top of the slide. This will be a really nice, custom 5906 when completed.
Thanks a lot stansdds for your kind words..

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Originally Posted by 4506517 View Post
This has been a most impressive thread.

You are VERY talented.
Thank you 4506517 for your comments... I am enjoying a lot learning how to do this...I make a lot of mistakes...but I enjoy it a lot...beats Netflix...
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Old 11-06-2020, 02:14 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Originally Posted by Dentt42 View Post
How did you get the serrations to properly follow that little ski jump leading up to the sight? Parallel, in other words. It seems like the file would lose its alignment when it lifts off the flat surface of the slide top.

This is amazing work, by the way.
Hi Dentt42,

thank you for you kind words...

I will try to explain how I did it (sorry if it is a long explanation)

The truth is I was going to stop the serrations before the "little ski jump" (don't know the technical name).


I wanted to finish in a straight line where the red mark is. I used a zip tie to limit the file strokes and end there in a perfect straight line. However, the zip tie that I used was too thin and/or I pushed the file too hard, broke the zip tie and marked the ramp all the way to the flat top of the sight area. I didn't do it once but several times.

I though of erasing the marks, but I was concerned of creating a "curve" or a "dent" on that area that would look odd (and damage "the ski jump").

Since the marks where really thin, looked like "hair lines",I decided to make them bigger with a needle file I bought at Brownells some time ago (and that I almost never use).





I did this slowly and carefully, taking my time.

Then, I used the piece of checkering file that I cut, to deepen the lines and try to blend them with the others. Despite being rectangular, the file "cuts" at an angle. Since the lines where already made "thicker", that served the file as a "channel" or "guide" to keep the straight line...






I left several marks that I later cleaned with some stones and sand paper... (had to repeat the process a few times).

I am sorry I don't have better pictures of the process. I thought of recreating some of the pictures with the actual slide, but it is already blasted and cleaned, just waiting for some good weather, so I can do the hot bluing...

At the end, this was a mistake that luckily ended looking ok. However, I think that if I was going to do it again, I think I would finish in a straight line just before the "jump"...

hope this helps...

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-07-2020 at 10:01 AM.
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Old 11-06-2020, 06:52 PM
Old_Cop Old_Cop is offline
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To quote Eddy and Patsy, "Absolutely fabulous."
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Old 11-06-2020, 07:54 PM
Green Frog Green Frog is offline
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Hi Dent42,

thank you for you kind words...

I will try to explain how I did it (sorry if it is a long explanation)

The truth is I was going to stop the serrations before the "little ski jump" (don't know the technical name).


I wanted to finish in a straight line where the red mark is. I used a zip tie to limit the file strokes and end there in a perfect straight line. However, the zip tie that I used was too thin and/or I pushed the file too hard, broke the zip tie and marked the ramp all the way to the flat top of the sight area. I didn't do it once but several times.

I though of erasing the marks, but I was concerned of creating a "curve" or a "dent" on that area that would look odd (and damage "the ski jump").

Since the marks where really thin, looked like "hair lines",I decided to make them bigger with a needle file I bought at Brownells some time ago (and that I almost never use).





I did this slowly and carefully, taking my time.

Then, I used the piece of checkering file that I cut, to deepen the lines and try to blend them with the others. Despite being rectangular, the file "cuts" at an angle. Since the lines where already made "thicker", that served the file as a "channel" or "guide" to keep the straight line...






I left several marks that I later cleaned with some stones and sand paper... (had to repeat the process a few times).

I am sorry I don't have better pictures of the process. I thought of recreating some of the pictures with the actual slide, but it is already blasted and cleaned, just waiting for some good weather, so I can do the hot bluing...

At the end, this was a mistake that luckily ended looking ok. However, I think that if I was going to do it again, I think I would finish in a straight line just before the "jump"...

hope this helps...
My friend, either by accident or because the file was determined to do right by you... no way you could have made that “ramp” look right if you had left it smooth! You did right and you did good, my brother!

Froggie
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Old 11-06-2020, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Cop View Post
To quote Eddy and Patsy, "Absolutely fabulous."
Thanks a lot Old_Cop...it is getting there...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Frog View Post
My friend, either by accident or because the file was determined to do right by you... no way you could have made that “ramp” look right if you had left it smooth! You did right and you did good, my brother!

Froggie
My friend...thanks a lot for your comments and for all the support...I guess sometimes things solve by themselves ..."it is a mistery"...
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Old 11-07-2020, 09:54 AM
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In the middle of it all, I bought a blasting cabinet.



it wasn't new, but it was only $20. It was much better than the plastic cabinet I "build" out of a container...



After a lot of cleaning, and degreasing; I had to make a new suction tube and change the hoses, spent an extra $8. (should have changed the gloves...)

With the new blaster, I was able to do make faster progress and work more comfortably (I guess I used it on the other slide to, but I forgot to mention it )



















I fitted a front Dawson sight...at $39 is a bit pricey, but I like it a lot...







The sight has a lot of "extra meat", so fitting takes time. I did an ok job this time.

















Was ready to pay attention to the frame...

more to come...
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Old 11-07-2020, 10:36 AM
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This thing is turning into a work of art . What kind of finish are you going to put on it ? Or are you going to leave it with a bead blasted look ?

You need another 5906 so you can put them side by side and show off your work .
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Old 11-07-2020, 10:47 AM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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This thing is turning into a work of art . What kind of finish are you going to put on it ? Or are you going to leave it with a bead blasted look ?

You need another 5906 so you can put them side by side and show off your work .
Thanks a lot...

I will do hot bluing (at home) in all the carbon steel parts. I am getting ready to start this morning...

Great idea...I have a 5906 "un-moslested" SS complete slide. I will take some pics...

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-09-2020 at 12:50 AM.
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Old 11-07-2020, 05:28 PM
Green Frog Green Frog is offline
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Just waiting for the next installment. and drooling on the ones I see! Keep it up, my friend.

Froggie
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Old 11-07-2020, 08:06 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Just waiting for the next installment. and drooling on the ones I see! Keep it up, my friend.

Froggie
Hey Froggie...spent a lot of time today doing bluing before the rain hits...

We are getting close...
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Old 11-10-2020, 04:21 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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The frame (now frames...)

I didn't have a frame for this build. My initial intention was to use the RMR slide on the SSV (Frankengun) frame. However, I added another slide (when I was looking fora barrel) and ended with 1 frame and 3 slides....

I decided to get another frame...

To finance the purchase, I sold my gorgeous model 10 (here in the forum for $400). Luckily, on the same week, I stoped by a gun store close to home and found a M5906 for the same price...

Unfortunately, it has a narrow hood barrel, is I can't use it on my M915 slides. But, it is a beautiful square trigger model...





I suspect this was a police trade-in, but there are no markings, so I'm not sure...

Also, it was in poor condition, dings and scratches everywhere...


(comparing the new frame with my SSV Frankengun frame)


The front sight was heavily damaged. It was a meprolight night sight that was dented and cut, to get the tritium tube removed.

So, it wasn't the greatest find...but it was mine

more to come...

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-11-2020 at 12:44 AM.
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Old 11-10-2020, 10:20 PM
Green Frog Green Frog is offline
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Doesn’t the 915 slide you got from me have the narrow slot for the barrel hood? That should work with the one you got with the 5906, shouldn’t it? BTW, I’ve decided I need a slide with sights like ‘57 Chevy tail fins.

Froggie
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Old 11-11-2020, 12:53 AM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Doesn’t the 915 slide you got from me have the narrow slot for the barrel hood? That should work with the one you got with the 5906, shouldn’t it? BTW, I’ve decided I need a slide with sights like ‘57 Chevy tail fins.

Froggie
Yes, the M915 slide I got from you has a narrow hood, so it would fit the M5906 barrel...

...however, I am reserving that slide for another build Xmas break...Netfix is horrible those days... (and having project is the perfect excuse to hide in the craft room avoiding some "relatives")

PS: I also like those slides with the adjustable sights and metal wings...however, all the ones I've seen have a HUGE roll mark on them...not my favorite...

But...I think one of those slides could be modified to mount an RMR directly on the slide, thus lower than with a mount...(one of these days)

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-11-2020 at 07:55 AM.
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Old 11-11-2020, 03:32 AM
JohnHL JohnHL is offline
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I also like those slides with the adjustable sights and metal wings...however, all the ones I've seen have a HUGE roll mark on them...not my favorite...
All of the adjustable sight slides I've seen have the same roll marks as the fixed sight slides, whether it is the "four line" roll marks or the "two line".

I don't understand.

John?
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Old 11-11-2020, 07:39 AM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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All of the adjustable sight slides I've seen have the same roll marks as the fixed sight slides, whether it is the "four line" roll marks or the "two line".

I don't understand.

John?
Sorry for the confusion John,
I meant the 4 line roll mark...
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Old 11-11-2020, 08:47 AM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Light rail?

Initially, I played with the idea of adding a light rail.




I didn't realized how slanted the dustcover was. I didn't want to modified it, since that area is already "thin" and I also don't have the equipment to do welding (I also don't know how to weld )

So, I abandoned the idea and returned the rail. Lost $10 in shipping...

Some work on the frame:
I tried to remove most dings and imperfections from the frame, before the initial blast. I also addressed the area in the back , so the slides with serration and the frame would "blend" better.










(as you can see, I still have some work to do in this area, some filling marks still show)


(also started to work in some beveling on the front of the frame)






(it was getting better...)

Some other details:

The slide stop was banged and scratched. It also had a ding next to the pin hole, maybe when someone tried to remove the pin they dinged it.

So, I did some work on it:








(after a trip to the blast cabinet)

Looking for a front sight for the RMR slide:
the RMR slide needed a back up front sight. Since the RMR (Sig Rome Zero) has an integrated rear sight, it would be ideal to have a front sight that would align nicely.

However, funds are scarce these days...so, could I work with what I have? After all, it is a back up slide and I is meant to be used at the range only (or mostly...)


This is the front sight that came with the M5906. The one that is dinged, dented and cut. I think it was a Meprolight night sight.




It isn't pretty, but it is close to the ideal height...



I decided to do some work on it...


(removed the glass, tritium tube wasn't there when I bought the pistol)


some filing to "square" it off...


some front serrations to make it look less "bubba"



The rear sight:
Every time I fit a rear sight, I do some marks on it. It doesn't matter how hard I try, I always do a scratch or a mark with a file.

I decided to removed the marks and re-blue the sight







more to come...

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-11-2020 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 11-11-2020, 12:09 PM
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Excuse me for repeating myself , but you do some fine work . To do the work you do with hand tools is just phenomenal . I would like to see what you could do with a machine shop at your disposal .

There's companies that have started in garages out there . Maybe we are witnessing one of those . If it ever happens , don't forget your friends on this Forum .
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Old 11-11-2020, 12:22 PM
Green Frog Green Frog is offline
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Excuse me for repeating myself , but you do some fine work . To do the work you do with hand tools is just phenomenal . I would like to see what you could do with a machine shop at your disposal .

There's companies that have started in garages out there . Maybe we are witnessing one of those . If it ever happens , don't forget your friends on this Forum .
Can I get some stock in that company??
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Old 11-11-2020, 02:44 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherrypointmarine View Post
Excuse me for repeating myself , but you do some fine work . To do the work you do with hand tools is just phenomenal . I would like to see what you could do with a machine shop at your disposal .

There's companies that have started in garages out there . Maybe we are witnessing one of those . If it ever happens , don't forget your friends on this Forum .
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Can I get some stock in that company??
thanks a lot for you kind words guys...

...I hope that you want to remain as investors after the mess I made with the bluing ....

more to come...

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Old 11-11-2020, 04:50 PM
JohnHL JohnHL is offline
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Guzzi, my friend, you have the soul of an artist.

You don't need investors.

You need patrons!

John
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Old 11-11-2020, 07:29 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Guzzi, my friend, you have the soul of an artist.

You don't need investors.

You need patrons!

John
thank you John...

...maybe what I need is an internship, with somebody that can teach me how to use a milling machine...

or

a Patreon account? (just kidding)...
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:06 AM
stansdds stansdds is offline
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So glad you did not put a bayonet lug... errrr... light rail on it.
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Old 11-12-2020, 10:04 AM
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So glad you did not put a bayonet lug... errrr... light rail on it.
it was one of those "momentary lapses of reason"...

to make things worse, there was a sale and bought a light for it...

luckily I was able to return everything (shipped the light for free ).

I guess it was one of those instances where not knowing how to do something saved me from myself...

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Old 11-12-2020, 07:45 PM
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Been working on the rear part of the "former" SSV frame with the goal to get a better blend with the slide (the one with the front cuts).






(sorry for the mess at the end of the room, I was having a fight with some sandpaper boxes )

At this time I have decided that the RMR slide will belong to the new M5906 frame and the slide with the cuts will belong to the SSV frame.

I think the slides are ready for the final blast. However I am looking for a couple of parts and I don't know if I will be able to assemble both of them at the same time.

In the meantime, I have kept doing some experimentation with the checkering files.










(this is the M915 slide I recently acquired from Froggie. The guide rod is for another model, but before cutting it to fit, I made the practice run..)

I like the checkering a lot, but I am not sure I like it on this build.

more to come...

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-12-2020 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 11-12-2020, 08:40 PM
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Bravo!

John
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Old 11-12-2020, 09:32 PM
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Wow.

You, sir, are very talented.

I can't wait to see your finished product.
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Old 11-13-2020, 12:00 PM
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Bravo!

John
Thank you John for your enthusiasm, I hope not to disappoint...

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Wow.

You, sir, are very talented.

I can't wait to see your finished product.
Thank you quikdraw67

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Old 11-13-2020, 06:46 PM
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Frame preparation and blasting

Kept working in the rear of one of the frames, to completely erase the file marks.

Used an acrylic rod with sand paper, the idea was to keep an uniform pattern that would have been hard to achieve with bare hands.





It is a bit rudimentary, but it works...





I removed the "black goo" from the magazine catch and magazine catch nut. They are stainless steel, and I have decided I want the frames totally "stainless" color.




(This lysol works wonders to remove bluing and black oxide, but don't leave the parts inside more than a couple of minutes !!!)






(also decided to blast the trigger pin, these are SS)





After a blasting session...
















(some greasy spots from my bare hands)

Ready for some hot bluing...

more to come...

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-13-2020 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 11-14-2020, 10:15 AM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Hot Bluing Blues

I waited a long time to do the hot bluing. The weather was not cooperating and it had been raining for weeks. I like to work in the garage with the door open, but when it rains the water comes in.

However, tired of waiting for a better weather, I decided to go for it. It was a Friday afternoon and it was going to rain the entire weekend.

So, I decided to set the garage "LAB" in a different way, closed the garage door, but opened the 2 windows and used 2 industrial fans to dissipate the heat and fumes.

Foolishly, I decided to "cook" both slides at the same time. HUGE MISTAKE. My bath is small and does not hold enough solution to "attack" with slides at the same time. This would have consequences.



Also, by the obsession of taking pics, I kept the slides to long out of the bath. This "stains" them, when the residual solutions dries on them.


took them out the bath, boiled them in water for 10 min and then oil them for some hours.


At first glance they seemed fine, but a bit latter I started to notice some issues.



SLIDES WERE NOT THE SAME COLOR !!!


Also, the safety was a different color than the 2 slides.



Safety was brown-bronze color.


(also, realized the sight wad a couple of "dings" that were not properly addressed.


(comparing the slides with my "unmolested" M457 slide)

The decision was easy. I would re-do it. The bath was already set in the garage. Next day was a Saturday. It was raining, and there was nothing better to do. (I must confessed I was very frustrated).

I knew one issue was "cooking" the 2 slides together in a small bath. However, I couldn't explain what was going on with the safeties.

The safeties I am using are from a 39-2, so I assumed they are from a different steel alloy than the slides.

Did a ton of research that night. Found a video on you tube (I later posted it on the thread "hot bluing at home" in the gunsmithing section of the forum). On the minute 41, the gunsmith talks about some Winshesters receivers being hard to blue because the steel contains some traces of nickel and as a result they turn a different color. He also explains that this steel must be "cooked" at 310 degrees F instead of 295F to obtain the back color. (I found this around 2 AM, when I couldn't sleep).

So, I decided to assume my 39-2 could have some nickel in them and I will "cook" them at 310F.

Next day, I boiled the slides on a solution of water and simple green to remove all grease before re-blasting.


Why is water boiling at 225F degrees? Water boils at 212F (my house is at sea level).

So, I discovered another issue. My thermometer was busted. My bath was at the wrong temperature and was not working properly.


slides after de-grease

Lots to fix the next day. Had to start all over again.

More to come...

PS: I will re-post these findings, with more technical detail, in the "hot bluing at home" thread in the gunsmithing forum.

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-16-2020 at 07:43 AM.
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Old 11-14-2020, 11:53 AM
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Looking good , no matter what . Considering you're doing this in a garage with the door shut , my hat's off to you . I know my garage gets hot even with the door open about a foot .

There's been posts here about the plum color and what causes it . Even S&W's from the factory have it , my 52-2 being one . I can't remember what causes it , but someone will jump in and tell us .

Keep up the good work !
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Old 11-15-2020, 02:44 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Bluing redux

The next day was a Sunday and we were expecting a tropical storm. Heavy rains were scheduled for the entire day.

We spent a few hours preparing for the storm (and getting some stuff inside the garage)/

I wanted to finish with the bluing, so I decided to lock myself up in the garage and work on it.

I changed my setup a bit, and included a water boiling station, so I wouldn't have to run to the kitchen to boil the parts in the middle of the rain.


I also added more lights and another fan.

I decided to "cook" the slides in 2 batches, not to weaken the bath. I also used a digital thermometer to make sure I was in the 292 to 295 F range. I was extra careful with the timings making sure all the parts would spent exactly the same time inside the bath.

Didn't take any pics during the bath, not risk "staining" the slides by keeping them too long outside the bath.


Things were looking promising after the water boiling session.

I also did the extractors, the sight (after fixing the ding I hadn't seen before), a hammer and some parts from the SSV project that I was expecting to re-use in this project.



Also, did the safeties, but this time I "cooked" them 1/2 the time at 295F and 1/2 at 310F. Only one caveat, I didn't remove the previous bluing. I cleaned them well, but left the previous bluing. This was a mistake.

After a couple of hours in oil, I was happy with the results...























All parts were the same color. That night I was a happy camper...

Little I knew there would be trouble ahead...

more to come...

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-16-2020 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 11-15-2020, 10:34 PM
Green Frog Green Frog is offline
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I’m waiting with my Froggie tongue hanging out and drooling (and that makes it hard to catch flies for dinner. )
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Old 11-16-2020, 06:43 AM
GerSan69 GerSan69 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guzzitaco View Post
PS: I will re-post these findings, with more technical detail, in the "hot bluing at home" thread in the gunsmithing forum.
Hey guzz, don't know if it was you or me but all the photos were replaced with little blue 'photo not available' squares.... not that I want to see your error photos, but it would be interesting from a technical standpoint.
Gerry
Keep up the awesome work!
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Old 11-16-2020, 08:13 AM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GerSan69 View Post
Hey guzz, don't know if it was you or me but all the photos were replaced with little blue 'photo not available' squares.... not that I want to see your error photos, but it would be interesting from a technical standpoint.
Gerry
Keep up the awesome work!
Thanks for letting me know...I think I found a fix...but, will probably have to upload the images again...

postimages is acting weird these days...

thanks again...
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Old 11-16-2020, 10:17 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Later the same night...

I was so happy that I stayed working that night.

Things were looking fine...






(please note the "serrations" slide has a matte barrel bushing)





(trigger and hammer from the SSV project were re-blued at the proper temp. Please note the polished blue finish)


(safeties were now the same color as the slides)


(top serrations were looking fine after the bluing...)


(please note the "semi-polished" barrel busing in the slide with the front "cuts")




(rear sight was looking fine, same color as the slide)


(no dings I could notice...)


(the sight made out of the "damaged" front sight was looking fine. It wouldn't blue, maybe it is made out of nickel?. I decided to coat it with aluma hyde. Found a fiber optic 2mm rod, and after various attempts, I manage to "fit" it in there.)

I decided to start putting together one of the slides...

The rear sight was trouble. The springs that got under the sight would get tangled in the cavity surrounding the hole for the screw...it was a bit of a nightmare to get in there...it was one of my "clumsy" days...I damaged two springs in the process...



Changed the fiber optic on the dawson front sight to yellow. I like it more and I wanted something what would emulate a "golden" color from a classic build.







Mistakes, mistakes, mistakes...I love mistakes (maybe too much red wine?)

Ok...here is what happened. When I decided to use the safeties from a 39-2 model I assumed they would fit perfectly. I tried the safety in one of the slides and had no troubles. So, I assumed the other safety would work fine in the other slide...WRONG !!! (these pieces were not cut with a laser...)

Safety was really, really hard. Was rubbing against the top and it wasn't possible to operate the pistol like that.

Worst thing...it was stuck...took me a long time to take it out...and in doing so, I SCRATCHED THE SLIDE ...!!!




Also, alert handing the safety for an hour or so (manipulating it hard)...the top black (dark) coating of bluing came off and under it...THE UGLY BROWN COLOR !!!

(At this point in time I screamed and my wife came to check if I was ok)

Here is what I think happened: remember I didn't removed the bluing from the ugly brown color the first time? I just "cooked" it in the bath and only 1/2 the time at 310F.

Well obviously it wasn't enough time and temp and the "dark black" coating was only a thin layer that came off after heavy use...


The scratch was deep and there was no way I was going to leave it like that...

The morning after
Next morning the storm had passed, but there were flooding alerts and many roads were closed. So, it would be a non-working day for me


I removed the bluing from the scratched slide AND the safeties


everything got cleaned and blasted


got the bath ready


deep scratched needed to be addressed


got it fixed...


rinsed after the "bath"


boiled after the rinse


oiling after the boil...

I was ready to give it another try... (the truth is: I am very persistent )

more to come...

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-18-2020 at 12:10 AM.
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Old 11-17-2020, 06:41 PM
guzzitaco guzzitaco is offline
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Facing your demons...

I let the slide "marinate" in oil for a couple of days. I guess the reality is that I was scared to scratch it again and scared that the bluing of the safeties would "rub-off" again...

At some point in time I decided to take it out of the oil to see the results...








I decided to install the extractor...


this time I was drinking Coke


I re-blued the extractor pin


also the extractor...


everything work with no issues...

Since I need a spring for the firing pin plunger (I damaged the 2 extra I had). I decided to wait until the parts arrived and not touch the slide anymore...


I started to put together the frame for the RMR slide.




(I like a lot the whole frame in SS)

Then I decided to "man-up" and finish the serrated slide...unfortunately I was to stressed and so concentrated that I didn't take any pics...sorry...

...but here is the pistol assembled...


(some oil left in the front serrations)






The extended slide stop (Ed Brown) was a gift from 4T5GUY (Jim). I like it a lot...


























(some grease sticking out...)



I hope you guys like it...

Have to finish a couple of details here and there...

I am waiting for parts to finish the other pistol...(probably to will take a few days...until after Thanksgiving...)

more to come...

Last edited by guzzitaco; 11-17-2020 at 11:56 PM.
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