Hi guys,
Another project in a crazy year.

As previously mentioned, I am not a gunsmith, I am a hobbyist. My skills are basic, compared to others in the forum, so please be patient. I have made many mistakes during this project and I hope you can learn from them (without having to go through them or in avoiding them you make NEW mistakes and we can all learn from them).

This project wouldn’t have been possible without the help of many forum members, who answered many questions. Special thanks to Bill (BMCM) and John (JohnHL), for all the extra help and dedication in all the steps of this project.

Background: during the Frankengun SSV project, forum member 1775usmarine, mentioned that he was looking to make a slide with a RMR…that was the spark that started the idea for this project. I always see other guys at the range with RMR on their Glocks, or other striker fired pistols. I don’t like strike fired pistols, since I shoot much better with a traditional double action (with a hammer). So, for a long time I haven’t taken part in the “red dot evolution” because I don’t have a platform for them. However, I really want one...I am growing older and starting to loose my sight...I can't compete with my kids in the range like I used to 4 or 5 years ago.

I have seen other 3rd gens with RMRs but to me, many of them sit too high and look a bit awkward. I wanted a RMR that look like it “belonged” to the 3rd gen…milling the slide? Finding another type of mount? A smaller RMR?

After the comments from 1775usmarine, I decided that I would give it a try…


I will divide this thread into 4 main parts: 1) RMR Slide 2) Target slide 3) Frame 4) Complete pistol.

I will try to detail what I did in each part, the pieces and tools I bought, and how much money I spent. For me it is important the costs of the project do not represent a financial burden, specially this year that funds are not that easy to come by.

RMR Slide:

For the RMR slide I wanted something that look like this:





But I always wanted a pistol with front serrations (maybe because I’ve never owned one that has them). Something like this would be great...



I found a M915 slide on eBay for $50. I cleaned and blasted the single side SS safety and sold it to recoup the cost.









Initially, I was going to use an ambi safety I had from my CS9 project, but later I found a carbon single side slide for $14 on eBay. At this point my total investment was almost zero.

At the end of the day I started with a M915 slide that look like this…



more to come...

Your welcome lol.....my project is on the back burner right now.

Umm, no you are not a “hobbyist” at your level now. I am totally blown away with what you are doing with what you are using. Sorry I keep repeating myself.

I really like the backdrop of the picture I copied from you and attached. I actually recognize and have a “few” of those rifles. (Not intending to post drift of course.)

Jim

Attached Images

3A4C9DB6-EF9F-485A-84B0-74CC3D70CCA8.jpg (28.3 KB, 147 views)

Thanks a lot Jim...

Found the pic on the internet, looking for a mount...didn't pay attention to the rifles until now...

I really like that pistol...maybe one of these days...

I'm looking forward to the next installment!

John

Keep going you are doing great and certainly have my attention!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

__________________
John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor

Hello to my fellow grave robber! And the words of the good doctor’s minion Igor, “It’s ALIIIVE!” Most of you couldn’t know this but guzzitaco and I have been feeding each other’s craziness for a while now, and while he has been building his two tone 3rd Gen double stacker, I’ve been working on a two tone 2nd Gen single stacker with some 3rd Gen parts added. We’ve been sending parts and pictures (as well as encouragement) back and forth for a couple of months now and I’m pleased to call him my friend.Froggie

Keep up the good work my friend, and send more pictures... you know how this group loves pictures!

Your Phriend the ‘Phibian

Mounting the RMR

The first order of business was to find a way to mount the RMR on the M915 slide.

My initial intention was to mount the RMR directly to the slide. So, I thought that milling the slide was the way to go. After all, this is what many gun manufacturers are doing these days.

When looking at a 5906/5904 slide with adjustable sights, you can see that the slide has already been milled to accept the adjustable sight. So, I thought that there wouldn’t be a big deal to mill the slide.



However, after consulting with a couple of gunsmiths I realized that I would that it would take longer and be costlier than finding a mount (in place of the rear sight). I also realized that it might not be possible, because all the RMRs in the market are larger that S&W adjustable sight, and further milling the top of the slide could leave certain areas too thin, for example the area close to the safety or close to the extractor.

Nevertheless, despite choosing to follow the mount route, I want to do some more research and try to buy in the future a slide with a rear adjustable sight to see if it can be further milled to the front or the back and fit an RMR.


Finding a mount
On July this year I started to do some research on the mount and contacted Aristocrat and BME mounts to check if they had something for the 5906…nope…nada…

I found an interesting thread on the forum that gave me some ideas…

Anyone put a reflex (redot) on a 3rd gen?

Fantastic info but I wanted a "slimmer" mount...

Then looking at the source of the picture of the Tactical.40 (post#1), I read that it had an Optima 2000 RMR sight…so what about an Optima 2000 mount?

BINGO

Found that CDNN was selling them for $29, but on ebay they had them for $26 free shipping…I had an ebay coupon of $10…so got it for $16.



Got the mount…it was a perfect fit….the top the M915 slide was a bit crooked , but the mount fits perfectly. The sight fits the sight cut of the M915 and also fits the Novak cut of the M5906/5904 because it comes with a little plate that serves as an adaptor.

The website says that it fits Tasco and Trijicon…so I assumed that it would fit all Trijicon patterns (WRONG but more on that later).




(frame from the SSV project)





(nuts serves as a spacer, since I didn't have the RMR sight)





After close examination, I believe this is the same type of sight mount that Aristocrat sells. Also, if you run some searches on google, you will be able to find the same Optima mount for $9+shipping…

So, at this point I had a slide and a mount that was a good fit...we were in August and I wanted to buy the RMR with Amazon points, so I had to convince the wife to let me use her points and save enough points so I could get it for a reasonable price...

more to come...

...and he mixes shopping tips with his gunsmithing tips! How cool is that? I had been wondering how to mount a base on my slide without a lot of machine work... problem solved. Many thanks, my friend.

Froggie

Hey...maybe I'm starting to sound like one of those "personal shoppers" in the movies...

need to control myself...

Carry cuts for the RMR slide:

After I bought the RMR mount, I decided to do carry cuts on the front on the slide.

Similar to what I did on:

M910 Slide learning project

So, using my trusty bench vise, a couple of wood blocks and some files, I started to work on it:






(I removed the bluing, using Lysol this time, works wonders)


(I true the slide flats using 400 grit paper and a flat marble block)



Rear Serrations:
I also wanted rear serrations, I have seen them in 1911 builds and I always like them. Since this was going to be a slide for the range, maybe I could experiment a bit on it.

So, bought a 40 LPI checkering file on Amazon for around $34 and after some practice on scrap metal, I decided to start working on it:











I liked a lot how they looked and even though it was a lot of work it wasn't that difficult...

So, could I make serrations inside the front cuts?

I ordered a 20 LPI file (this time from eBay, cheaper, but took a long time to get here, and I think it is not the same quality). I know the front serrations will not have the "angle" that the rear serrations have, but it was the only way I could think of doing the without a mill and making sure they were straight.

After all, it is a "range" slide...







It was late when I finished the first side, so I decided to make the other side the next day...later this would prove that it was a mistake...but that night, I was a happy camper

more to come...

Mistakes, mistakes, mistakes...

Next day I started to work on the serrations on the other side. Even though I was rested I wasn't in the zone. I had completely lost the "rhythm" that I had from the previous night.

I don't exactly know what happened, nor documented the whole thing with pictures, but the lines started to get different "widths". They were straight, but some were "thinner" in the extremes and "fatter" in the middle.

I think I was "pushing" the file at an angle and didn't realize until it was too late. The only solution was to "erase" some of the checkering and start again. I was tedious and stressful. I didn't take it well. After a lot of work, this was the best result I could get:





It wasn't perfect. Using checkering files isn't easy. I thought that after some work on scrap metal and the rear serrations, I was ready and got over confident. Also, I believe that the cut on the side of the mistake wasn't even. The checkering file would "eat" the metal at a different angle if the surface isn't straight.

I kept working on it for the next week or so. Little by little. Small sessions. Trying to "straight' everything out.

Things got better:


After some more sessions and some blasting, this is where I got...







They are not 100% perfect...but they are close. After the bluing, I think it will be hard to spot the small imperfections without a magnifying glass...

Cuts where deeper than initially intended. That's the reason I posted asking for the depth of the Performance Center cuts.

My cuts are a bit deeper that the reading on Cherrypointmarine's RECON 9. The difference is 0.009". So, I think it is ok.

Also, I have seen some Performance Center cuts that look deeper, for example the cuts on the Shorty .40 Y2000.



Some other mistakes:
In the middle of all the "serration - checkering" issue, I manage to drop the slide from the bench on the floor. Not once, but twice.

I don't know the composition of my ceramic floor, but it is hard. Hard enough to dent the slide. On the front and on the back.

I tool a lot a work to fix the small dents with a jewelers file.



After that I starting using a piece of cord, to tie the slide to the bench vise, in case I dropped it...

more to come...

PS: forum members JohnHL, Cherrypointmarine, BMCM, Erocksmash and 4T5GUY helped me a lot during this "stage" of the project. Thanks for your support.

You have definitely come a long way since I sold you that 457 a couple of years ago . You certainly have some metal working talent .

thanks a lot for the kind words...

P.S.: I love that 457...

This is a rather inspirational post and has my gears turning... I have questions, but need to think more.... I like what is happening here, fantastic work sir! I dident realize at the time this was your intention...

I'll be following this closely...

I wouldn't beat yourself up about the small imperfections as I believe most guns have them...

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This is the way....

Thanks a lot Erocksmash...

The more I see, the more I am in awe. While the serrations on the back of the slide have the practical function of reducing glare, their cosmetic factor is probably even more pronounced and you knocked it out of the park there.

As you know, I have that fairly useless to me Model 910 slide, and now I’m beginning to think it might make an ideal practice piece. Now to get a 40 lpi checkering file!

Froggie

I think he's got a lot of us thinking Froggie .I bought a 3906 complete slide off GI , wonder what I could do with that .

CPM, your 3906 slide will work with a variety of Gen 2 & 3 frames, so IMHO at least, it has some intrinsic value. OTOH, my 910 slide fits only the 910, so is of little value at best. That’s why I suggested that I might use it “for practice.” Your slide has several potential uses, so if it were mine at least it would be getting more respect than just as a practice piece. Of course it’s your slide, so your choice.

Regards,
Froggie

Thank you Froggie...thanks for all the help and the support and for all the parts...

Some pics that might help in your endeavor...


I put the slide own the vise between to wood blocks. Make sure they are straight, or your checkering could be at an angle . I am a bit clumsy, so I tied the slide to make sure that if I accidentally drop it, it does not hit the "kryptonite" floor.


Leave enough space for the file to lean against one of the blocks. the idea is to use it as a guide.




I use both hand for this, but I was holding the phone to take the pic





Cuts should be deep enough that mark the edge, but the deeper the cut, the "thinner" or "shaper" the edge of the cut, so it is more brittle and can break if you push too hard. Try to go little by little and check your progress constantly (I normally fail at this).


I don't own a file handle, so I use an old golf ball I found. It works fine.



I recommend a good light, shadows are a problem for me when doing this.


I am loosing my sight, so I need magnifying glasses.


Grobet checkering files come in two widths, I have found the wider easier to use. For specs, you can visit their website.

Hope this helps...

Practice with some scrap metal and after a while you can decide if you would like to "venture" in doing it...

I did the M910 project to get some confidence, because I had no use for that slide and the cost was zero.

The M915 slides that I have used for this project have been in poor condition and after selling the single side safeties, the cost was almost zero.

But I have to say that I enjoy doing this and beats Netflix...
it also gives me a chance to do a project with my kids

I'm going to be running some carry drills this weekend with the Shorty.40 and depending on results and weather she will be introduced into the rotation, I would like to explore some of these improvements and applying the to said gun....

What did you search for or what kind of hand files did you end up with ? Just a basic search?

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This is the way....

Hi Erocksmash...

The Shorty .40 is one of my "Holly Grail" guns... (as the 5906 IDPA, RECON 9 and others)...

I think it is a good time to disclose another issue I had, due to the rear serrations, that I was going to address when discussing the "frame" section. But since we are here...

The fit between the rear portion of the slide and rear of the frame is important. Many gunsmiths (builders) take good care of this, by making sure there is a perfect match (blend) between the two. If you take a look at BMCM builds, he is very careful in this section.

Check this thread (post#1)

We're way beyond Dremel now, Melted & Melonited 4516-1

(Also, it is worth saying that in terms of 3rd gens gunsmithing, he is Yoda and I am not even a Padawan).

So, when you are doing rear serrations to your frame, you are "eating" material, the rear of the slide has a curve frame, that you will be flattening a bit, by doing serrations. The deeper the serrations, the more you are altering the shape.

That "new" shape after the serrations will match the frame in a different way, so you might have to alter the shape of the rear of your frame if you want a perfect "match" or "blend".

Some pics to illustrate the issue:


(before)


(after)


(after)

EDIT: I think it is worth mentioning that S&W 3rd gens are far from perfect in this area as they come from the factory. However, I don't know if Performance Center pistols come with a better "blend"in this area.

In my opinion there are 4 possible solutions to this issue:

1) Do nothing, leave it like that (but I don't like how it looks, I am OCD, so no an option for me)

2) Re-contour the rear of the frame (using some files and some stones). If it is a steel gun, some blasting and voila...on a aluminum frame, you would have to re-anodize, or ceracote...or some other type of refinish

3) Re-contour the frame using a checkering file. Using the slide checkering as a guide, you would have to do the checkering on the rear of the slide for a perfect match. On an alu frame, you will have to re-finish. I was tempted to do this, but I decided for option 2.

4) Checker the rear of the slide, partially, this means that you would not do checkering in the portion that meets the frame. Some builder follow this route for a more "clean" look.

Something like this:

(picture of a build by Jason Burton, you should check him out).

So, by checkering the rear of the slide, you might be committing to refinishing your frame.

I am sorry for such a long post before answering your question, but I think it was important to address before anyone modifies their slides. Will address the question of files and research on my next post...

Hope this helps...

It looks like the last picture shows a slide that matched the frame perfectly at the rails, and then was checkered from the top of the frame rails up, that is, option 4. Since my 915/639 match up (or is it mash-up?) is like this at the rear, I’m wondering whether that would be a good path for me as well. Actually, since both the 915 and the 439 slides are such good matches, it would be a shame to start altering them, trying to to get them alike and then match the frame back to them.

Froggie

I think it has a lot to do with personal choice.

At the end, I like the result of my slide and how I was able to make my frame and slide match, but the mis-match was unexpected and I had to address it.

I think what is important, is to understand that there will be a consequence if you decide to do rear serrations on you slide and depending on your plan, you might have to refinish your frame.

If I new then what I know now, I would probably would try to do something like option 4 too...(and perhaps with this option, you could avoid refinishing your frame...perhaps)

Hi Erocksmash,
sorry for the late reply to the original question.

My interest with checkering started after I read some of BMCM threads, where he fixed or starts from scratch some checkering in the front of the grip of the frame. I wanted to fix that area on my 5906, but since there is a curve at the end of that area (close to the mag well), it is not possible (or not easy) to get a checkering file there.

Since I like the idea of customizing my pistols (project guns or frankenguns), I started to lurk a lot around the 1911 forum, since it is a common platform for customizing and there are a lot of them. The Grobet files were mention as one of the tools of choice and I saw different pictures of different patterns such as 20, 30, 40 and 50 LPI.

Grobet has a good website with some info.

Grobet USA Manufacturers and Distributors: Swiss Pattern Precision Files, Jewelry Tools, Industrial and Dental

This is the one I choose for 40 LPI:
Grobet USA Swiss Pattern Precision 6" Checkering-Hand File, Cut 1, Item No. 31.037 - Grobet USA

I have read that sometimes the files come with some defects from the factory and it is important to check them or test them before starting to work with them in the "real" project. So, I think it is also important to buy them from a vendor where you can return them without much trouble, in case they are defective.

For the 20 LPI, I bought this one:
Grobet USA Swiss Pattern Precision 6" Checkering-Pillar File, Cut 00, Item No. 31.040 - Grobet USA

I made the mistake of buying it on eBay, and I'm almost sure that is some sort of factory 2nd. So, I should start by following my own advice...


(I cut the 40 LPI file, to be able to better fit it on one spot, more on this later...)





There are some videos on youtube or on full30, from a guy called Mosing Virus...he is really good with files and I have learned a lot by watching him work.

On youtube there are other vides by a guy named wolf83...those were helpful too...

hope this helps...

Choosing the RMR
Spent some months accumulating "prime" points and, some weeks ago, I was ready to buy the RMR.

After a lot of research I was settle on a Holosun RMR. From what I've read they are sturdy, keep zero and have a great battery life.

According to the seller of the mount, it would fit Trijicon patterns. Without checking anything else, I went ahead and bought a Holosun 507C (retail $309 - $160 in points = $149 out of pocket). Upper arrival I realized the Optima mount is NOT a Trijicon pattern.

Also, the RMR looked HUGE. The top of the M915 slide is very narrow, so the sight has to be small to keep the proportions of the platform. (sorry, I was so disappointed I did not take pictures of this)

I immediately repacked everything and returned it to the seller.


Back to square 1
I needed to find an RMR that would fit my platform. Since the Optima mount was designed for the Optima red dot, then I needed to find what was the pattern.

Doing some research I found that Tasco owned Optima, and the sights were made in the UK. The company was later sold and became JPoint " the smallest" red dot sight at one point in time. I also found out that JPoint used the "Shield" pattern.

Question was: what else fits the Shield pattern?

BMCM recommended a website to find out:
Footprints/Mounting Standards on Red Dot Sights - Optics info

There is ample info about most (maybe of all) RMR in the market. I recommend you check it out...

Below the sights that fir the Shield pattern:





I started to do research and the two that caught my attention were the Sig Romeo Zero and the Holosun 507K.

The Holosun 507K has better reviews and it is more expensive. Also, at the time that I was looking for it, it was IMPOSSIBLE to find (maybe has something to do with a dispute between Trijicon and Holosun).

So, the decision was to get the Sig Romeo Zero.

Very good reviews. Ultra small, made of polymer (some of you won't like this), weights only 0.4oz (so no issues with slide and mass) and the dot is 3 MOA. It has good battery life, "shake-awake" feature and 5 year warranty by SIG.

(Price was $199 and I used my $160 credit in points, so I ended with an out of pocket of $39.)

I got it really fast...some pics:

































First impressions: I like it. It is very small. Seems that target acquisition will be fast. Looking forward to some range time with the kids...I will give them a run for their money

I like where this project is going...

more to come...

I had no idea that BMCM thread existed. He is a talented gentleman and I've had him bring back some girls before more spficly a 1066 I got free in a buy of a 1026 that needed some loving, some very fancy work....

I think the anodizing causes a hiccup in this thought... although I wouldn't mind leaving the shorty alone and having it sent off for a "salt bath".

Once again I have to think on this sir.

Very good work!

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This is the way....

Thanks Erocksmash for the kind comments !!!

Forgot to mention in the last post: in this build I will be using the extended slide stop that 4T5GUY gave me as a gift (during the SSV Frankengun project). Thanks again...





more to come...

Nice job.
4516-1.. love my red dot sight.

Attached Images

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2 Cor 5:17
John3:16

I've given this some good thinking... I'll leave the shorty alone unless I can get it bathed.... after poking around the steel box, im thinking my 1066 is a good candidate for some front grip checkering and front slide serrations, and if I can get this Salt bathed ill do that as well....

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This is the way....

Guzzi,

In the woefully few threads you have shared with us in the Forum, you have demonstrated:

The eye for design of an artist,

The disciplined skill of a craftsman,

The dogged frugality of an accountant,

And the dedicated responsibility of a father.

Your threads are much more than entertaining and even enlightening.

They are literally inspirational.

Keep up the great work!

John

P.S. Yes, Jim, that was literally the grammatically correct use of the word, literally.

Thanks a lot John for your kind words,
thank you for you help in this project,
for the phone calls and the emails answering all my questions,
always encouraging

thanks for everything,

Guzzi

thank you Doc... I learned a lot from the thread where you posted that pic...thank you

looking forward to see this build...

I have seen a couple of 1066 slides from sale recently...perhaps it would be a good idea to buy a spare one for the build in case you want to go back to the "original"... just a thought...

EDIT: I was mistaken, I have seen a couple of 1006 slides for sale recently...sorry my bad...

I want a 10mm, I just haven't got the $$$ right now...but will get one one of these days...

guzzitaco that is some impressive workmanship! You have real talent.

Is that your Tactical 40 in the 1st pic? Beautiful pistol! Regards 18DAI

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7 +1 Rounds of hope & change

Thanks a lot 18DAI...

No, that Tactical 40 is a "dream gun" I found online (past auction), but when I saw the RMR mount I started to look for something similar...

thanks again...

What's next ? You're admirers here are looking for the next installment showcasing your talent .

thanks cheerypointmarine...

next = slide #2

thanks again...

Why a 2nd slide?

I wasn't going to buy a second slide. The initial idea of the project was only one slide for the RMR. However, when I bought the slide, it didn't come with a barrel. Spent weeks trying to find a wide hood barrel for a "reasonable price" (I don't know what that is any longer), and couldn't find one.

A website that I like a lot (and that sells every gun part) was running a special sell of 25% off and free shipping. So, I got a whole kit for $167.



I sold some parts online, gave some away, and sold the one side stainless safety, the remaining cost was around $30. Not bad for a barrel and a slide. Found a carbon steel saferty (39-2) online for $14. So, the total cost was $44.

So, I had an additional slide to play with. I wasn't 100% sure of what I was going to do to, but I knew I wanted a different rear sight and serrations in the back...

Rear sight:
For this slide I wanted to use a 10-8 or Fusion type rear sight. So, I needed to cut the rear of the slide, to accommodate it, again using my files, wood blocks and bench vise.

Another mistake here: I was advised by BMCM to cut the slide for the specific rear sight, so it would be a perfect fit. Since the Fusion rear sight was taking too long to arrive, I decided to tackle to task using the S&W rear sight as a reference...BIG mistake. I ended with a tiny gap under that sight that could have been avoided (and that would be fixed later by another mistake )



Fitting the sight:
The Fusion or a 10-8 sight has a Novak cut that is wider than the S&W dust and at 65 degree angle, instead of 74 degree. It is HARD to fit.
The sight is small, and when you use the file you might hit and spot that you did not intended to touch. There is a LOT of material to remove and you need to be very precise (also you need to know where to remove the material, so unless you have done this before or seen somebody doing it, it will be hard).

For more on fitting a 10-8 sight please see this thread (and read it carefully):
10-8 rear sight on a 3rd gen pistol?

My first attempt was a disaster and to make matters worst I dropped the sight on the "kryptonite" floor several times, resulting in dents all over it.

















So, the sight was "tight" in it place, but it was dented and it had a lot of gaps that shouldn't be there. I was disappointed and angry after having wasted $40 in the sight...but I was learning...so, I ordered another sight from another vendor and in the meantime decided to tackle other tasks.

Some more rear serrations:
I decided to do rear serrations to this slide, after all, in this slide with the rear serrated sight is where they will be of use.






(black stuff is sharpie marker)

This was the sight picture that I wanted...too bad it didn't work out as I planned...


Removing machining marks at the tp of the slide:
This slide had severe marks on the top. It was also a bit "crooked", like it wasn't cut properly by a machine.
Spent some time removing the imperfections and had to remove a lot of material.









more to come...

After boot camp I was sent to my "A" school , which in my case was Aviation Structural Mechanic , Sheet Metal . One of my instructors said the difference between a sheet metal mechanic and a good one is the good one can fix his mistakes and nobody will know . You are well on your way sir . Can't wait to see the finished product .

Dude you are just crushing it! Super impressed with all your work. Keep it up brother!

hey Squid...

thanks a lot...will be referencing one of your builds (as an inspiration) in the next post...

stay around...

Thanks for doing this detail of fitting a 10-8 rear sight. I assume you used a 1911 Novak Low Mount version? I found out, way too late, that the sights Hilton made for the S&W 1911 E-Series fits 3rd Gens, but they never sold well and he discontinued them. Said he'd need an order of 100 to make them again.

Your post is the first one that I turn too each day. Your skill with hand tools is inspiring. Please keep the projects coming.

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Made it, Ma! Top of the world!

I think you really need to place a rubber mat or low pile carpet under your work area. Dropped items won't get damaged and they are less likely to bounce to destinations unknown.

__________________
VCDL, GOA, NRA

I think that is an excellent idea. I really need a "softer" surface around the bench...

Thanks a lot for your kind words Old_Cop...

Hi ElectroMotive,

Thanks for the comments. I didn't do well on the first attempt of the rear sight. On the second one, I think I did much better...it is not an easy sight to fit in and do a "perfect" job...

Yes, I used a low mount version of a Fusion sight.

Don't have any experience with the Hilton sights, but I will look them up...

Thanks again...

EDIT: Found them...!!!

Once in a while I have a good idea. I try to not let it happen too often, don't want people to start expecting too much from me.

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VCDL, GOA, NRA