Hello, I am simply a sometimes lurker here and appreciate the experience and information shared.

As per the title, I have a like new Model 52-2 with a problem. It was my father’s until recently when he went into assisted living (91!). I believe the pistol has never been fired. That’s what I was told and I recall the original blue box. It looks like it’s never been fired but it’s possible it has been. Somehow over the years that disappeared along with the tools and bushing wrench.

Anyway the problem is that the hammer will not stay back when dropping the slide (carefully when no cartridge is in the magazine, and at normal slide speed when a dummy round is used - empty case). The hammer drops to half cock (safety hook?). I can thumb the hammer back and it holds against the seat but any pressure on the hammer causes it to slip off the sear and drop to the half cock hooks. Any pressure on the trigger will also cause the hammer to drop even with the magazine out. Note I’m 99% certain the magazine safety is intact.

There is a small amount of first stage take up in the trigger and just a hair’s worth of travel after the sear trips.

[EDIT TO ADD: the trigger is at 30 oz which I think (?) is lower than it should be set at. And also, I gave the pistol a field strip, Kroil “bath”, mineral spirit soak, then purple simple green wash, hot water rinse, and a little Hoppes gun oil. Same problem ]

Im afraid I know the answer - gunsmith and pray - but is there any way to add pressure to the sear spring or improve engagement? I’ve read but not confirmed that Smith & Wesson no longer support / work on the Model 52s. If that’s true, any recommendations for a ‘smith? Im in Texas if that makes a difference but I’ll send it anywhere to someone who is good with this model.

Thanks in advance.
Rod

30 oz is out of spec for a 52 in any version. 2.5 lbs is what smith said the lower end should be. A good armorer can make the adjustment in a half hour or so. It just takes a slight adjustment to the sear/ hammer relationship with a stone.

Sorry, but I don’t know anyone in your area. Been out of the business too long.

Regards, Rick Gibbs

Sounds like you need a good S&W gunsmith.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

I suspect that some very careful and slight bending of the sear spring is something you could attempt. This is a very low risk gambit that could work without professional assistance and is very unlikely to hurt.

Disassembly is required.

I’ve owned four 52’s and never experienced this problem however my buddy did with one of his and exactly this worked for him.

You have a new gun and it definitely does not need “stoned” or bending of any springs… The 52 has an adjustable trigger and you need someone that knows how to accomplish a proper adjustment. There is a guy here (don't recall his name) that was a 52 assembly factory worker and may likely walk you through it. Maybe he will see your post and chime in or one of the other guys has his name noted.

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S&W factory revolver armorer

Hi,
The above posts by Ken158, Sevens and Rick Gibbs likely tell all.

But, based on other experiences, it is possible that if your 52 hasn't been fired or used much, that it may have been stored with the hammer cocked. If so, springs may have taken a set and are now under power.
Sometimes too, if the slide is dropped on an empty chamber the jarring can damage the hammer/sear engagement. Since you know to use a dummy round hopefully this is not the case.

So, those are two possible issues that can afflict an otherwise mint condition gun.

Also, Smith & Wesson at one time offered two different sear springs, one for American Bullseye trigger weight and a slightly heavier one for UIT (International) Centerfire, which called for a 1360 gr trigger pull. In any case, it is the sear spring that generally regulates trigger pull on a m52. There is no adjustment for sear engagement.
PS: The M52 doesn't have a magazine disconnect, as I recall.

The 52 certainly does have a magazine disconnect safety.

But ken158 does bring up a good point that if the trigger adjustment screws are FAR out of their typical range, it can be a source of trouble for proper trigger reset, which could show itself as a sear engagement issue.

If you do a simple field strip and remove the slide, you can look top-down in to the frame of the 52 and over the trigger you will see a somewhat large headed screw and an allen wrench of the proper size will fit that screw. This is the pre-travel adjustment screw and it allows the user to take up the free travel before resistance in the trigger.

If this screw is maladjusted, it can prevent the trigger from being in the proper place to allow the sear to properly engage the hammer.

donk52 is the poster who formerly assembled S&W Model 52 pistols. He is a casual visitor to the site, he's not here daily like many of us lunatics.

RODJ, Where are you in Texas. Im in Weatherford w of FTW. I would be glad to fix it for you if your around my location. I have sear springs if thats what it needs. Fixed a few guns in my day ( 20+ years worth) so I wont bubba it up..I also own a 52-2 so am quite familiar with its workings. Hopefully it may just be the adjustment. I cant imagine any trigger work done to it if your dad didnt shoot it, so maybe a set sear spring or out of adjustment seems the most likely answer. let me know.

Wow, THANK YOU ALL. Not even 3 hours went by and tons of observations and assistance.

I had already printed the detailed disassembly / assembly instructions from a thread here (another big thank you to that author). I’ve been through a 1911 a few years back, but I’m a bit shy of bending sear springs on an unfamiliar pistol. And the instructions warned to leave the sear spring alone. I’ll start with the trigger adjustment screws.

Failing that, I may take you up on your offer CALREB. I’m in Austin, but a drive up 281 would do me some good. If it comes to that, you’ll have to let me know what appropriate “alms” you accept as a humble sign of appreciation.

Will report back after I’ve tried the trigger adjustments.

Thanks again.

RodJ, No alms needed, I like to help out friends when ever possible. Makes my day to have someone visit . I built a nice shop/mancave during the first year of the pandemic. It changes between cleaned up and a mess as I am still unpacking boxes of accumulated shooting stuff from 35 years of shooting/teaching/fixing guns and competing. Needed a place I could control the heat and humidity. No basements here unfortunately.

Last buddy that came by 84 year old retired Air Force Sgt. Put some sights on a couple Staccatos for him. So I got to drive his new Lexus LC 500 convertible. Now that was some good bartering. Im retired and usually at home or range. Have plenty of wadcutters to test fire your pistol.

So just let me know a few days ahead of time. I cant imagine it taking more than an hour to figure it out. I work a bit slower these days, especially with that nice a gun.
On another note. If you are having trouble with sear issues/ hammer follow. If you test fire, load only a couple rounds in the mag to test fire. I have seen quite a few S/Ws where guys or someone they paid to lighten the trigger messed with the sear spring and the gun doubled or trippled. Dont think it would be much with a wadcutter gun but it gets exciting with a .45 acp. Take care Bob

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Calreb: That is super nice of you to offer to repair the OP's Model 52. I absolutely love your Mancave/Work shop you have setup for yourself. That's something I need for sure. After a long and relatively enjoyable career in law enforcement and working as a firearms instructor and an armorer I too accumulated a ton of tools etc. for working on firearms related issues. With all my tools and reloading gear I have flat run out of room in my basement workshop, or as my wife calls it, the Hole. Hope you are enjoying life after the "job".

Rick H.

Good Lord, Bob. Those photos of your cave made me dizzy! And a bit envious.

So I tried resetting the trigger “pre-travel” screw to factory per Donk52 posts (thank you Donk! Invaluable resource to have you in the world). But no joy. I’m fact I don’t think anyone has done any work on the pistol. The “pre-travel” screw was set perfectly. A quarter turn out and the hammer fell. Reaching the other is a bit of a chore but will check it when I find a spare hex key to bend.

I went ahead and contacted Smith and Wesson to see if they would support the pistol. It dates to 1978-79 and the lady said yes, then sent me a FedEx label. I’m torn because I want to believe S&W would be good but not so sure that any of the current smiths are real familiar, and if they are, whether I would get one. Unfair of me to question them because I don’t know, but the 52 has a sentimental aspect.

Bob, I’ll look at the calendar (and calculate the gas $$!) and see if there’s a good weekend or weekday to come up. That is unless some one knowledgeable tells me that S&W will definitely do a good job without costing an arm and a leg.

So much appreciate you and the others who have weighed in!

Rod

I am not knowledgeable but I am fairly quick with fingers and posting replies is something I enjoy. Plus, Lee (Handejector) has given us a fantastic forum and I cannot be stopped!

However, let me be serious:

I'm just a guy with some experience. That experience matches up well with the bulk of forum posters across the internet. That experience falls behind gunsmiths and multi-decade competition shooters. At the same time, my level of experience is probably some 95th percentile across all gun owners. Whatever. I'm either qualified or unqualified but I have my opinions.

If I were you, I would sooner send that Model 52 to ten or fifteen different places before I would ever, and I mean EVER consider sending that to Smith & Wesson today in the year 2022.

I think it's a truly bad idea and I absolutely mean that.

I believe that S&W in their current state is some level of inept and I'd love to see some hidden camera action at the succession of people who look at a 52 when it arrives and turn their head like a Labrador that heard a distant sound.

No idea what you will choose to do. If it were me, on a list of things I would never do is send THAT pistol to S&W.

Sevens, thanks but I’m a little unclear on your opinion… not! Lol!

Seriously though, I have read a number of your posts here and appreciate your advice. I think a drive in the country to Weatherford TX is in my future to meet my “new best friend”, CALREB. Also your reference to a Labrador tilting its head provided a vivid picture. Reminded me of Henry, my former buddy and hunting partner, a black lab. Nothing was funnier than his head cocked and a curious look on his face.

Just an observation, after searching and reading numerous threads here and on other reputable forums, the low trigger weight and hammer follow issues are fairly common. Curious.

Anyway THANK YOU for the clear, unequivocal advice!

Thanks for the nice comments on my shop. It was built out of necessity.
I would have much preferred a basement for the temp and security reason.
No such thing here or at least not many, so this was the next best choice. I dont leave guns in it and its alarmed, the grounds have cameras. So its fine. Still have the front half to decorate, small couch, fridge etc maybe this winter.

I WISH I COULD disagree with Sevens but from work I have seen and stories here I CAN'T. If Jim Rae or Paul Liebenberg, Pluff, Yost, any of those guys were still there I would say send it in. But actually I have no idea if a P/C gun gets to the P/C (if its even still there) or just sent to one of the gun plumbers on the floor. S/W repairs used to go to a group of 2-3 guys who were the best, they didnt want it coming back or any future complaint from the customer. Apparently those days are gone.
It is a long way here. You could just wait till you have business this way. I am not going anywhere hopefully. I will take a look at my 52-2 next week and see if I can figure anything out. Also I will make sure I have the proper sear spring for it. Also the mainspring. That could be an issue. Once I do that I will send you a couple. That way you will have them . Then you could call Alex Hamilton (10 ring precision) in San Antonio and see what he thinks. He has a very excellent reputation as a custom gunsmith. I am probably going to have him do a couple custom builds for me in the future. Barrel cutdowns and refit. Dont get in a hurry you have the gun its not going anywhere. You could call the P/C and ask, will my gun be going there. Do you have someone familiar with this model that hasnt been made for years. Thats not out of place. I actually have some stuff to do this week end for a change. Will get back next week. Take care.

This sounds like the trigger stops needs adjusting or the sear spring might need attention. If you can field strip the gun, slide off, stocks off, with the proper size allen wrench, turn the screw inside the frame under the trigger clockwise, maybe half a turn. The lower screw, behind the trigger should be backed off a quarter turn. We used an allen wrench bent about 15 degrees to make it easier to access through the side of the frame. Cock the hammer and fire the gun. The hammer should fall completely. Hopefully it does. If so, cock the hammer again and turn the top screw up, counter clockwise, until the hammer falls. then turn clockwise a half turn. The upper screw is now set. The bottom screw now needs to be set. Turn the screw towards the trigger until the hammer will not fall when fired. Place a .015 shim between the trigger and lower screw and with the hammer cocked and pressure on the trigger, back out the lower screw until the hammer drops. Both trigger stops are now set. Hope this works. If it's the sear that is the problem that will be another story. But it's not too bad to remedy that. I'll wait to hear from you.
If you could, at the bottom of the frame at the magazine opening there is a stamp mark. what character is it?

Wow, thanks Donk52, you can bet Im copying this down in my manual .

Hi Donk,
Thank you for weighing in. I will retry setting the trigger and find the stamp mark and report. Have been away helping on family issues. Sure wish my father could speak (he’s lost that due to a strange undiagnosed neurological issue) and I’d know more about the pistol. Then again it was good to see him and that’s what counts.

Thanks again!
Rod

Rodj, Sorry to hear about your dad. Its hard when you dont live close.

I have been kinda out of it for almost a week till a day or so ago, from a bout of salmonella. Dr thinks didnt wash berries enough or wash enough after feeding/cleaning up for my cats. Wish I had my colonoscopy scheduled for last week instead of july, I was 2/3rd there at least. If you decide you need something just pm me your address and I will get back to you. Take care.

Hello, my apologies for ghosting everyone on this thread who provided advice. I’m back and have followed donk52’s directions to adjust the trigger. (Thank you, donk!) Unfortunately for me, the hammer follow still occurs when racking the slide.

If I didn’t mention it before, I can thumb back the hammer and it will hold. However a good bump or hard jar will cause the hammer to fall. When racking the slide or bumping the pistol, the hammer goes to half cock. On the other hand, with the hammer cocked and the trigger pulled, the hammer falls completely.

So it seems to me that somehow the sear is not catching the hammer sufficiently.

CALREB, if you are around on Sunday, I will be heading from Big D back to Austin and could try to swing wide past FtW and stop by if you are available and up for a visitor. If that’s not convenient for any reason, I still thank you for the advice and the offer at maybe a more convenient time.

Before I give up, I’m going to reclean the sear hammer rebound spring etc and try putting a hair more bend on the sear spring. Any advice or warnings to stay away are welcome!

Thanks again to all!

Another update provided for others who may read this. I disassembled the pistol, cleaned the sear, hammer, etc., and put a bend in the sear spring. It seemed to help but the hammer still falls to the safety notches / half cock most of the time when racking the slide. The nose of the sear doesn’t look evenly cut, or maybe got some slight damage from slipping off the hammer hooks and slamming into the half cock hooks. Ugh and oh well.

I failed to connect with CALREB due to personal schedule and a 4 hour haul one way. Likely off to a smith.

Posting this in case it helps someone.

Installed a new sear and that has solved the problem. Compared to the new sear, the original sear looks like a monkey worked on it. No more hammer slipping off the sear.

But then… I inserted a magazine… stopped short of fully inserted, about 1” short of fully locked in. I gave it a push. Then a harder push (I know I know, and I knew better!!). Got it out with a lot of pulling but something is jacked up.

Snatched defeat from the jaws of victory….

Going to start a new thread with more details.

Congratulations on the initial success, and commiseration on the new issue.

I work more on revolvers than semiautos, so I will resist offering anything substantial to this discussion. I just know that once a problem can be defined, a solution can be found and applied. Take heart, and let us know when everything is as it should be with your 52-2.

__________________
David Wilson

Did you have this problem before with that 52? I would look at the mag release first.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

Instead of a new thread, here goes.

Prior to any changes, the magazines inserted normally. Just like any other semi auto, 1911, Model 952, Browing Hi Power, Ruger MKii, High Standard, SW Model 41, Glock, Springfield XD, you name it. Insert the mag and it goes right in with little resistance. I know how to operate a semi auto.

Before any parts changes: disassemble the frame, several times, down to removing the hammer, sear, and disconnector, and back together, no problems other than the continued hammer follow despite bending the sear spring. (Note, trigger, trigger bar, and mag release untouched).

Only after replacing the sear did this weird magazine problem occur. I’ve now stripped the frame back down several times. Backstrap, sear, hammer, disconnector. Same magazine problem with any/ all of four magazines. Both mags from this pistol and two from another Model 52. It’s as if the pistol frame itself got bent.

After much looking, messing, and analysis, the magazine appears to be jamming the upper end of its back side against the corresponding “block” inside the frame near the top above the magazine well.

Now, through more “testing” a magazine is now jammed near permanently, fully inserted… yes, I forced it while using Dykem on the mag to try to ID the area of interference. Jimminy crickets!

Thanks for reading!

Mystifying. If you successfully get that magazine out... maybe complete tear down again with every part except the magazine catch? With the MSH off and the new sear out of there, all you will have left -IS- the frame really... and if you somehow knocked that out of square, maybe it will be obvious?

If that's what has happened... I wouldn't have any idea how to rectify that. Properly, anyway.

The only times that I have ever had a problem with a known good mag getting stuck in a mag well it was the mag catch.

__________________
USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

Same here. This is a mystery.

The only thing that possibly comes to mind is that when installing the rear grip plate, that compresses the mainspring, I used a padded vise to hold the frame as my third hand. Now I’m wondering if somehow I cracked the damn frame.

Worst part is that now I may have lost a good M52 magazine.

No amount of vise grips pulling on the mag base moves it. Kroil no help. Setting it down and walking away for a day, nope. Pretty spectacular clusterf— that I’ve created. If I wasn’t so blessed by love and family, this would bother me more. Now I just want to know what the heck happened!

Next move: stick the damn thing in the freezer. Never give up. Never give in. Adapt and overcome! Lol!

Get the calipers out and check the frame measurements.

I would try gently heating the frame with a propane torch first. Try to stay as far from the mag as possible. A little heat goes a long way.

__________________
USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

I also worry that you borked the frame... however, I'm still trying to think positive also and I just fished a 52 out of my safe. As I suspected -- the sear spring is very, very close to the rear of the magazine. There should obviously be no contact there but -IF- something were off with the sear spring... it's orientation or size, shape, position... the magazine and sear spring could make contact.

I am hoping there is some manner of interference there.

I have no solution, but I'm spitballin'.

Sevens, I have never torn mine down to parade rest. Do you think the sear spring could put enough tension on the mag to freeze it in place?

__________________
USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

I seriously don't know much however I can damn sure see the entire length of the sear spring in my 52 when I pull the magazine out.

When all is well, certainly there is no contact and no interference. However, the sear spring is specifically what he changed in the pistol that is all locked up, so I'm just tossing that out there.

The sear spring wasn’t interfering, no unusual resistance until the back of the magazine contacted the block in which the disconnector sits. I tested with a piece of paper between the block and where the magazine should slide past. To be sure I tried the dykem. For some STUPID, out of body reason, I wanted to see if there were other interferences, so I kept pushing the mag in till it seated…. Seems now like the entire back side of the mag is friction fit.

Just a bizarre mystery.

I was going to try the heat method but (1) didn’t think I could get much heat into the frame without quickly also heating the thin magazine, (2) didn’t want to affect the bluing (just yet) and (3) am thinking that shrinkage is what I want (first time in my life I’ve EVER said that). Hence its in the freezer.

Btw, wife came home this evening and in a disapproving tone announced “Honey, there is a gun in the freezer”. Me: “Yes. I ran out of room in the gun safe”. Not one single hint of a smile much less a laugh.

Sevens, thanks for your help. To clarify, I replaced the sear itself not the sear spring.

Don't part it out. Get somebody who really knows the 52 and let them look at it. Got to be a good S&W Model 52 smith out there somewhere.

__________________
USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

You saw my post before I edited it!

Have no fear, it turns out that shrinkage is underrated!

Pulled the frame out of the “new” gun safe (garage freezer), clamped the very tip of end of a pair of standard vise grips to the magazine base, laid the frame on its side on my wooden bench, mag well hanging off the side, pressed down on a towel covering the frame (it was very, very chilly) and VOILA! The darn magazine slid right out.

“More in this developing story at 10pm. This is your Senior Garage Hack Reporter, Rod, reporting from Austin….”

Good for you!! There is something to be sai for shade tree mechanics! I am one…….

__________________
USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

DONK52, I completely forgot to respond to your question about what letter is stamped on the bottom of the magazine well. The letter is s a capital “U”. Followed your instructions and eliminated the trigger setting as a sole problem.

I now have the pistol back together. The hammer no longer falls to half cock when racking the slide. The magazine “safety” prevents function of the trigger, but pressing on the sear against the sear spring releases the hammer to the fire position. All seems to be well in that regard. Whew!

However now that the frame and magazines are back at room temperature, the dang magazines again won’t insert all the way. They make it past the magazine catch and then stop hard about 0.80” short of full insertion.

The best I can tell is this. The top back side of the magazine is scalloped, so that the top edge has a pair of pointed “ears” on each side. One magazine interferes with the transverse block in the frame (where the disconnector resides) on the left ear on the rear surface of the magazine. Another magazine that goes with the pistol has interference on the back side more centrally, just to the right side of the middle weld (I think it’s a weld) seam. I chalk that different locations up to slight variances in the magazine dimensions… even so, I’m not even sure of that assumption!

Just bizarre.

One hypothesis is that this particular pistol, Serial No. A42xxxx, is a little known, highly sought after and rare, variant that was one of a limited number produced for a classified government procurement contract of Model 52’s for a top secret special forces team operating in arctic climates. The tolerances are so close, that the pistols were only functional at or below zero degrees Fahrenheit. This prevented the possibility that, if a weapon were captured, the enemy would not be able to use it in above freezing temps. Brilliant thinking! My guess is that there is a SEAL Team code named “The Snow Seals”.

Anyway, back to reality… I’m going to check the apparently abnormal interference against another Model 52 to see whether what I’m seeing on the back side is truly abnormal or whether I need to investigate further.

Sorry for the drama. Posting all this in the off chance it helps someone else.

MYSTERY SOLVED! All working properly. Everything in the cosmos is related. And the answer can be found in this thread.

Son of a gun…. Will post the answer later in case someone wants to guess.

Thank you ALL!

Wait WHAT?!

Problem is solved?

It seems that the original problem and the magazine problem were related. Trigger stop screw lower. That little grub screw was too long.

Someone had set the trigger stop screw lower for virtually zero trigger overtravel. It had to be set for minimal over travel, because if set for any more over travel (I.e., deeper into the magazine well) the screw head protruded ever so slightly (a few thousands) into the mag well. That tiny protrusion was not enough to prevent magazine insertion, but it did tilt the magazine back a tiny fraction such that, as the magazine went further in, the effect was multiplied at the magazine lips in the rear. Those lips came in contact with the top of the frame and got wedged in tight. Imagine how if front and rear sights are just a thousand of an inch out of alignment, the bullet goes off course more and more as it travels.

So, that explains the magazine, and I think it also explains my complaint that the original sear looked to have been worked on by a monkey. He tips were a mess, almost chipped looking as best I could tell. I think that happened because the sear tips weren’t completely clearing the half cock notch in the hammer. And the sear tips started getting banged up until there was so little “good” sear tip “meat” engaged in the hammer hooks, they started to slip off. Additional sear spring pressure helped, but it wasn’t enough.

The new sear held just fine — Praise the Lord. But that new sear would have been destined for the same fate had the “trigger stop screw lower” been set the same.

Both problems were solved with the judicious use of a jeweler’s file on the trigger guard side of the stop screw until it was short enough to allow proper functioning of the trigger / sear and not interfere with the magazine.

Wow. It all sounds so obvious looking back. It never occurred to me that the trigger stop screw lower would be too long.

But whew!! Can’t wait to finally shoot this pistol and start screwing around (no pun intended) with the magazine feed lips. I’m guessing with my luck they will need some tuning. Lol!

Thanks for everyone’s interest and all the help you provided. This is a tall group of people.

I'm sooooo happy that it was something tangible (screw in an unexpected spot interfering where it never should!) rather than something out of reach like the suggested torquing or bending of the frame, which is HORRIFYING to even think about.

As for the magazines, here has been my experience. Let me repeat that I dunno much but I think I know what I think I know and I can also say that I actually did this! (and with extremely positive results.)

I think my count of 52 magazines is 12 or 13. It's taken me YEARS and cash to get here. And it's been my experience when you add one to your collection... those feed lips MIGHT not be ready for prime time but every single one I have ever gotten, I was able to make work properly and reliably and I did it with a very simple technique.

1) take a 52 magazine that you have fully vetted and you know works ALL THE TIME

2) measure the distance between the feed lips with a caliper and do this measurement in multiple places

3) use a pair of pliers with the jaws well protected with tape or the feed lips well protected with layers of cloth

4) the heat treating and strength of the metal is impressive... you obviously want to use less strength rather than more strength, but I found out right away that actually need to use a good volume of strength to make an input that works

Match up the dimensions and the magazine becomes a good working and completely reliable magazine.

As of yet, in thousands of rounds (admittedly very evenly distributed across the magazines...) when I have had to fix a magazine, I have only had to do it ONCE.

So if you have a magazine that is causing you grief, fear not!

Thanks Sevens, thats good info. Here is some info someone might find useful in the future.
A couple weeks ago I was on Numrich site looking for something and decided to check what was available on model 52s. Unbelievably its showed magazines in stock (used). I have never had a bad experience with Numrich so decided to give it a try. I have 5 mags for mine but always wanted 6 ( 30 rounds).
Just never would pay current prices.
These mags were 85.00 so I entered 5 to see what happened, greedy but figured I could always get my money back at that price. Well they only had 2 so final cost ended up being 92.?? a piece. Mags were in great shape, plastic followers, hardly used but each had a small patch of light rust on one side. About the size of 1/2 a dime. Took it right off, added some cold blue a a bit of oil and as good as new.Both functioned dummy rounds fine but haven't been to the range yet. May need some of Sevens info, so thats good to know.
Anyway just to point out keep an eye open on Numrich. You never know what they will have at any given time. But you can bet good stuff doesn't last long there..

Thanks guys. I have had two older High Standard .22’s (still have one) and have found the pleasure of tuning magazine lips to be like the pleasure of a beautiful woman’s company… except different.

Thanks to a lucky find, I have two 52’s each with two magazines. Hopefully one will run. They seem to feed empty once-fired cases with the exception of the last round. Hopefully sized and roll crimped rounds will run fine in at least one magazine, so that I have a good example to match.

Btw, my followers are all metal. What color are the plastic followers?

I chuckle a bit at the discussion of S&W 1-2-3rd Gens that will cycle empty brass. I'm not sure if it was S&W themselves that started this discussion but I am certain that many gunwriters loved to publish it all through the 80's and 90's. Many point out that guns do not need to cycle empty brass however a semiautomatic pistol that is wholly designed around a flush-loaded wadcutter round is absolutely gonna need to be able to cycle empty brass since the absolute shape of the ammo and the empty are dimensionally the same.

The 52 magazine follower discussion BWAHAHAHA this is another conversation that I love too!

The old & grizzled will snap at ya if you talk about 52 mags and plastic followers being just as good as the old school metal followers. In my experience, they are just as good.

The energetic discussions we have had have led me to make my long standing offer that no single soul has ever actually even hinted at taking me up on:

If you are stuck with plastic follower magazines and it keeps you awake at night, I will trade 1-for-2 metal to plastic follower mags. You send me two 52 mags with plastic followers and I'll send you one metal follower 52 magazine for them.

Alas, nobody wants this deal. Maybe I should enhance the deal? Send me three plastic follower 52 mags and I'll send you two metal follower 52 mags.

PM works.

Back in the 1980's a M1911 that would feed an empty case was prized in some cases. I have two that will, and am happy with them.

__________________
USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

Somehow I suspected that there was a fulsome debate over plastic vs metal followers. Certainly didn’t mean to start a new one! Lol

So to close out the pistol and the poor stuck magazine, I did some redneck calculations and adjustments. Put a shell case in it and another magazine and opened the lips in the back so the same amount of rim appeared above the lips. Then adjusted the front lips so they both had the same release tension, slipping a case in and out.

My old man had two boxes of factory 148 gr WC. with the hammer block safety on, and me wearing eyes and ears in the back bedroom / man cave, I cycled the rounds by hand and all is well. Whew!