I have a relatively new DK 1911 that I have been developing a light paper load for. I have replaced the stock recoil spring with a fifteen pounder with good luck for ejection and chambering. However, if I move the slide to it's rearward most position, it can and will sometimes 'stick' there without the slide lock. It will eventually slide forward, but I'm thinking that there isn't enough spring to overcome the drag on the slide. Although I would not consider this normal unless I were to use a very light recoil spring such as an eight pounder maybe.
Is there something that I'm missing here, is there something that may be holding the slide in that rearward position that I'm unaware of, or have I pot this thing back together incorrectly? I believe that I have lubed it properly, via the S&W recommendations.
I don't want to send it back to it's birthplace, but if I must I must.
You thoughts?

If the slide/frame is well lubed and the disconnector isn't sticking I don't know why else it would stay back unless there was drag from elsewhere, like maybe the bushing (shouldn't be).
How does the slide frame fit feel when the barrel is out of the gun?
Does the disconnector move easily and freely?
If this is a 45, you might try a 16 pound spring.
I shot a fairly mild load and a 16 works fine for me.

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Lynnie, Professional Pest

Lynnie.........you can always be depended upon to give such valuable feedback. I will check the slide with the barrel out of the gun, but the disconnector moves very freely and there are a couple spots of oil on the busshing/barrel area.

It is a .45 by the way, sorry about that as it could have been a 38 Super.

I've heard of a few rare times when the disconnector rail on the slide hits the magazine. Check it with the mag out also.

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Lynnie, Professional Pest

Okay, I have checked out the issues that were suggested and have the following to report...unfortunately, I do not have all of the technical lingo down yet, so please bare with me:

1.) The slide will not pass over the safety lever on the right rear of the gun, it must be pushed down with a punch in order for it to lower enough for the slide to pass. It's the lever that pops up when the slide is being pushed rearward.

2.) Once it passes the above spot, the slide then sticks as it encounters the tapered, spring loaded pin in the rear-center of the frame. This appears to be normal as it looks like it should do this before it mates up with a moon shaped cut-out in the slide.

3.) When the slide is then pushed further back, that same tapered pin, which is now at the breech face, stops the slide from going forward and requires some effort to overcome the pin.

4.) Lastly, the slide hits the very top of the hammer at it's farthest rearward extension.

I apologize for my lack of part names.

All parts are oiled well enough without going overboard and have things sopping, I don't use a lot of oil.

Although I am asking opinions, it seems that the tapered pin described above could be the culprit, but obviously, I don't know.

Since there have been barely 1000 rounds through this firearm, should I hold off on any work to fix the issues, if there are any, or should I simply contact the factory and ship it back for analysis and repair?

Nuttin' Honey?!?!?!?

The tappered pin is your disconnector, sounds like it might be sticking. There should be no reason for you to need to push the safety lever down, especially on the right side. I can't figure out what would be causing that if it just started. The hammer usually stays in contact with the slide through it's entire rearward cycle. Sounds like it might be time to call S&W and get it sent back in.

could the disconnector be out of spec and the taper at the top is cut improperly????

how bout the slide where it makes contact with the disconnector... is it square cut or does it have a slight taper?

if it does it when hand cycling but not during the actual firing process, I would look for unusual wear and if it does not look right, send it back under warranty.

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The safety lever that I am referring to is the very slim piece of metal at the right rear looking at the top of the frame. The one that always pops up when the slide is initially pushed back when re-assembling. I need to push it down with a drift pun in order for it to clear the slide.
The taper not truly tapered, it resembles that of a hollow ground slot screw driver. The slide appears to be square cut with very little wear marks.
Should I attempt to remove and clean the disconnector? I have not performed that before, is it too tough for a semi-rookie? I have taken all of my revolvers apart and re-assembled them for instance.

the disconnector is in the center.

the firing pin safety plunger is on the ejection side of the frame. its actuated by grip safety pressure.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/e...851084143#1851084143

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if you're gonna be a bear...