Tips for replacing the sear release lever in a 915? Plus other ramblings.

[aurora40]

I bought a 915 recently that has a problem with the sear release lever. It can be cocked on safe. Actually removing and replacing the lever looks pretty straight forward. But I understand they had some amount of fitting. My plan now is to look at the old one and the new one to figure out where they adjusted it. But I thought I'd see if there's anything to keep in mind or any gotchas or whatever.

I bought this for a song, and knew it had this issue. Also that the sights aren't great and it seems fairly inaccurate. But I like the look and idea of 3rd gens and figured it might be fun to try to sort through the problems.

The first thing I did was call S&W about being able to cock it on safe. I was surprised when the rep put me on hold and then came back to tell me my 915 was a decocker-only model and that was normal. I mentioned then that the decocker sure seems broken, because the lever stays in whatever position you switch it to, it doesn't rebound back after decocking. He said those guns were before his time and he didn't know if that was how the decocker lever worked. He was not impolite or anything, but was quite convinced my 915 was fine.

I was surprised they don't have some reference or something for all of their firearms. He said he asked another rep what the 915 was. If one isn't familiar with the firearm, it would be difficult to explain over the phone about the issue. So I didn't see the point in continuing the conversation. Also it's an older firearm that I bought used, so I don't feel like S&W owes me any sort of support.

Anyway, I considered sending an email instead so that I could send photos of it, but figured I'd just buy the part and try the repair myself.

I also notice when reassembling, that after pushing down the levers to slide the slide on, it will get stuck just barely in front of the hammer and not move further back. I have to try to cock the hammer and release it and randomly then the slide will go on all the way. Something I'm doing wrong?

[jsbethel]

This thread should be helpful - So your decock doesn't work anymore...Now what?

The Trijicon SA04 will literally transform the less-than-ideal 915 sights.

[aurora40]

That is very helpful! I will just clarify that mine decocks. It simply can be cocked again once on safe. But I don't believe that changes the repair that is needed. I guess I'll have to track down pin gauges. There's a Fastenal near me, not sure about a McMaster-Carr.

Edit: I'm aware of the Trij sights, but don't really want to spend $100 just to get three-dot sights (don't care about the night sight aspect). Plus a sight pusher or a gunsmith charge on top of that. But I appreciate you pointing it out. I'll likely just try to paint the rear so there's a little more contrast.

[GaryS]

I ordered mine on line from McMaster-Carr. Shipping wasn't expensive and they came pretty quickly.

I will warn you though, they are small, so make sure you keep the tube that the smallest one comes in. And don't put it "somewhere safe" or you'll spend an hour looking for them.

Ask me how I know!

Originally Posted by aurora40

That is very helpful! I will just clarify that mine decocks. It simply can be cocked again once on safe. But I don't believe that changes the repair that is needed. I guess I'll have to track down pin gauges. There's a Fastenal near me, not sure about a McMaster-Carr.

Edit: I'm aware of the Trij sights, but don't really want to spend $100 just to get three-dot sights (don't care about the night sight aspect). Plus a sight pusher or a gunsmith charge on top of that. But I appreciate you pointing it out. I'll likely just try to paint the rear so there's a little more contrast.

[jsbethel]

Originally Posted by aurora40

The first thing I did was call S&W - he said those guns were before his time and he asked another rep what the 915 was. If one isn't familiar with the firearm, it would be difficult to explain over the phone about the issue so I didn't see the point in continuing the conversation. Also it's an older firearm that I bought used, so I don't feel like S&W owes me any sort of support.

This reminds me of the post where a S&W customer rep tried to convince a forum member that S&W never made a Model 39.

[Mercs]

Originally Posted by aurora40

That is very helpful! I will just clarify that mine decocks. It simply can be cocked again once on safe. But I don't believe that changes the repair that is needed. I guess I'll have to track down pin gauges. There's a Fastenal near me, not sure about a McMaster-Carr.

You can get all three sizes from Amazon, for $15 shipped. Search for “Vermont Gage Steel No-Go Plug Gage”



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[GaryS]

I've found that calling on the phone works better. There are very few people left there who are familiar with the 3rd Gen guns, and probably even fewer who can actually fix them.

The slide getting stuck issue is not uncommon. Those three levers have pretty close tolerances and have to be completely depressed for the slide to move past them. I think it's the Sear Release Lever I have the most issue with. On some of my 3rd Gens, I have to use a plastic rod to get them all depressed. Sometimes a ball point pen with the point retracted helps get them down where they need to be.

Your issue might not be with the lever itself, but with some other component. There are at least four very knowledgeable 3rd Gen folks on this forum. Three are, to my recollection, factory trained armorers and the fourth is a gunsmith who specializes in 3rd Gen guns. All of them have shared information with us in the past.

It can get pretty expensive throwing parts at a problem without knowing that the exact problem is.

If that's the one sticking the most for you, maybe it's related to your issue. I checked four of my 3rd Gens and not one of them would cock with the safety lever engaged.

Originally Posted by aurora40

Anyway, I considered sending an email instead so that I could send photos of it, but figured I'd just buy the part and try the repair myself.

I also notice when reassembling, that after pushing down the levers to slide the slide on, it will get stuck just barely in front of the hammer and not move further back. I have to try to cock the hammer and release it and randomly then the slide will go on all the way. Something I'm doing wrong?

[CelticSire]

My 915 is equipped with a decocking lever. It does not rebound, stays in the down position when activated. When it is down, the hammer cannot be cocked. If the hammer is in the forward position, pushing the decocking lever down causes the hammer to move very slightly to the rear, maybe an 1/8 of an inch or less.

[Sevens]

The knowledge base at S&W is a joke. While I am a realist that understands the current staff isn't likely familiar with a long out of production series of pistol... that management allows them to give false information and guesses is ridiculous.

Tip: if ya don't like what S&W says on the phone, just keep calling them back... they'll give a different answer each time.

[Jeppo]

Originally Posted by Mercs

You can get all three sizes from Amazon, for $15 shipped. Search for “Vermont Gage Steel No-Go Plug Gage”

I wouldn’t bet money on it...but as I recall...

When I went searching for the gauges, those I found on Amazon were not the same tolerance as what I eventually ordered from McMaster Carr.

[Mercs]

Originally Posted by Jeppo

I wouldn’t bet money on it...but as I recall...



When I went searching for the gauges, those I found on Amazon were not the same tolerance as what I eventually ordered from McMaster Carr.

The ones I mentioned are good to go. Very tight tolerances and easy to order if you have an amazon account Vermont Gage Steel No-Go Plug Gage, Tolerance Class ZZ, 0.025" Gage Diameter

Amazon

 

Amazon

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